Good thinking with the tape. I feel the same way, I built a cheap form for the one I just did on my channel with a deep sea blue. I had a second one I did with just a caulking seal on the bottom. Both turned out well, but I like your idea for a future one!
Beautiful job once again! I've used the aluminum tape method when I made a tray for my girlfriend and it works perfectly as a barrier and it's so cost efficient. I also had the same problem with getting it off lol it took FOREVER and I wasn't able to just peel it all off but it was still worth it in the end. I'm still not done with it but I'm really not looking forward to hand sanding and possibly even using micro mesh as I have no idea what I'm doing since it'll be my first time. I hope it comes out as great as your cutting board lol Great video, it came out beautifully!
I'm tempted to try just some basic HVAC tape, but really wanted 4 inch wide tape so I can make a larger channel, but man the stuff I bought was super sticky. I ended up letting the planer take care of a little removal. I hated doing it, and will likely need to remove my blades and clean them, but it just wasn't coming off easily enough. Other than that it was much easier than building and sealing a frame just for the dimensions of this board.
@@DEJaegerWoodworking I’m not sure what the difference between hvac and aluminum tape is lol I used the 2” aluminum and it was insanely sticky too. I don’t have a planer, I’m sure the stickiness really did a number on it though. I just used my belt sander and a hand plane to get it as flat as possible. But I agree it’s definitely a nice quick alternative to building a mold as long as you’re willing to deal with the mess afterwards lol
What a beautiful piece. The colors are perfect. Great that you pay attention to personal safety when working with resin. How do you deal with the scratching of epoxy cutting boards? I had one and the epoxy scratched very easily. Is that actually food safe?
Great looking board! Thanks so much for posting this tutorial. I have a question regarding product: why did you use table top epoxy instead of casting epoxy? I'm new to all of this and have just been learning differences between products and ratios. Most of what I read says you should only pour a max 1/4 inch deep layer of epoxy with each pour. I seen you enter .75" on the volume calculator and only make 2 pours, with the first definitely being over 1/4 inch deep. Is there a reason for the 2 separate pours? Is it because of the table top epoxy product? Can I get away with the less expensive table top epoxy over the pricier casting variety. Sorry for the questions, but you definitely seem to know your craft. Thanks again for this video, your time and future consideration on answering my queries. Best of days, -NickytheNote
Thanks for watching the video and your question. According to the epoxy manufacturer, once fully cured the epoxy is absolutely food safe. You do need to make sure that the epoxy that you are purchasing is, as others are not. Same with the food safe mineral oils that I used on my cutting boards. Some mineral oil is food safe, others are not.
Hey Matt, good to hear from you again. Here's a link to the tape that I purchased, but let me give you a little heads up. First, I chose 4 inch wide tape because I wanted the flexibility of wider epoxy channels. You can obviously purchase 2 or 3 inch wide aluminum adhesive tape. The tape I purchase is SUPER adhesive, which is both good and bad. It's good, because it served its primary purpose in preventing leaks and seepage, but it was bad because it was extrememly difficult to remove. It took quite a bit of effort to remove it before planing and I still had quite a bit of remnants of it left on the board. Hope that helps. smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B007Y7EWVU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
@@mattbowers5342 I should have an American Flag cutting board with some CNC work coming in the next couple of weeks. If I can survive the winter weather in Missouri. Cold and snowy here too!
