One of the craziest things I've seen: My first car (bought in '76) was a '69 Torino GT, with a fairly worn-out stock 302 2-barrel and 3-speed manual. It would stop pulling at about 5200 rpm, which I attributed to valve float. I was buying up parts to build a serious 289, and had a single four-barrel tunnel ram on hand. I also came across a Holley 465 cfm four-barrel (I think the smallest they made, w/vacuum secondaries, of course) that an acquaintance was selling. So I thought: "Why not?" I was running the 302 HARD, since I was planning on replacing it anyway. So I popped the tunnel ram and Holley onto the otherwise-stock 302. Started EASILY pulling past 6000 rpm, and was otherwise a MAJOR improvement in power from launch on up. Only thing I can think is that it worked so well because the carb was SO SMALL! : )
The stock 302 2v even has push it valve spring studs. So if you want to run high rpm without destroying it, you need to install screw in studs and stronger valve springs.
@@charlesvan13 Need screw-in studs with higher lift cam & higher spring pressure, not just because you rev a stock cam high. You'll experience valve float from the weak stock springs before you pull a stud out
Remember folks, it's not the engine they're comparing, it's the intakes and fuel deliveries. A worn out 305 is good, as long as it's the same worn out 305 with every test.
@@blakake the factory 150-170hp figures are with mild tuning and restrictions on everything. Get rid of all that and yes you can if the engine is still pushing good compression. Where people always go wrong with a 305 is they put way too big of camshafts in them. With the proper camshaft and some Vortec 305 heads you can easily get over 300 horsepower and 300 lb ft of torque. I have done all these things when I was younger so it's not like I'm just talking out of my ass I've been there and done it all. The 305 is not as big of a turd as people make it out to be.
@@blakake Ok I was off a little, just found my old dyno result from my G- body with my 305 and it was laying down 192hp and 244 lbft of torque at the rear wheels.This was with a reworked Q-jet off of a 327 small block, long tube headers, 32 degrees timing and other fuel tuning. The big killer on those factory set ups besides exhaust flow is those ancient computer modules that control the carb- timing ect.Oh I had an aftermarket vaccum advance HEI set up also.Keep in mind those numbers were after drivetrain loss.I was running 100 octane gasoline no ethanol also.
I want you guys to do a single plane va dual plane video like this, but test them on a bunch of different SBCs. I'd like to see how the two intakes affect a 175hp 305cid vs a 325hp 350cid vs a 500hp 383cid. That sounds interesting.
Please do horse power increase or decrease with stock exhaust manifolds and headers, colder thermostats, higher ratio rocker arms, heavier valve springs, different spark plugs and wires, additives that promise horse power, lighter fly wheel and clutch assembly
@@jasonhooey5677 in what world is 13.1 rich? Most power is being made for most engines at around 12.6-12.8 on my engine dyno. Pump gas has 10% Ethanol, which brings AFR down even more.
@@jasonhooey5677 that is not HP related. I ran a stock 84 Vette TPI on the dyno the other day and it made peak HP at 12.8. When you have tons of overlap then yeah, some fuel flushes out the exhaust and you wanna make it richer. So I 13.1 at WOT is neither rich nor “super rich”, but rather lean. So the direction of that statement is wrong to being with.
I like this test because they took a bone stock 305 and with a intake change and exhaust change, they tuned 43 more horses. A basic 600 carb would have been a ton cheaper. A Chevy PERFORMANCE basic 350 8.5 with 600 cfm carb and headers is 260-265 hp, I got one. If they threw in a performer 2102 cam and springs, that 305 would have been in the 260-270 hp range over a wider range that stock 305. I did this with several 305's, with really crappy 305 heads just like theirs. The trick is the 305, doesn't know it's a 305. I just responds to good parts like ANY engine would. So if all you got is a 305, cut your teeth on learning what an engine REALLY wants with the 305 or whatever. When your bucks come in and you step up to bigger, you are already in the groove on what makes power. In the mean time you can lie to your friends and say it's a stock 350. THEY WON'T KNOW THE DIFFERENCE.
So after this test to be honest without really cracking the block open and doing too much to a stock Chevy 305 just change valve springs, put roller lifters in, change the intake and carburetor set up from stock and put headers on or the evac is optional and throw some timing in it and you’ll basically get 200-220 hps and 280-290 ft-lbs of torque without taking the motor out and using 5w30 or 10w30 regular or synthetic oil on new gaskets all the way around and it’ll be a work horse and it won’t be no slouch either when you kick the throttle. Mate that in a Gbody or a box Chevy b body variant or even a c10 truck and it’ll make you want to drive it daily and it’s reliable as heck
I had a 305 in a Z28. And a buddy put the usual parts on his and it responded. But the magazines were all about the 350 and up, for power from the bottom end .But, give the 305 some more bore&stroke and the "racing" heads developed for the LS, and there you go. With the equal runner intake completing it.
racing heads developed for the ls will absolutely NOT WORK... all you need are a set of 1996-2000 vortec heads from an L31 350...shave them 0.03",add springs and away you go
Your video did get very close to a full explanation of the heater by pass port. But can you get more detailed like showing the hose connections and showing the exact flow of the heater hose outlet on the water pump to the manifold. Is that from the manifold flowing into the water pump? And the hose coming out of the manifold, can it go to the heater core and back to the radiator too right hole to allow bypass while engine is warming up? Thank. You for your help on this?
It would be nice if they gave you practical applications you're not going to run a 900 CFM carb on the street and for a 305 that's pretty freaking big yeah it's nice to get peak horsepower numbers but is it going to be drivable on the street what kind of vehicle do you plan on putting this in you plan on running a 3000 stall a 2-speed powerglide
Yea. Preload. Hydraulic lifters were designed for quite valve train. For quite running car. Preload , for intervals between maintenance. Preload, if excessive, will pump up at high rpms. So in hot rod apps, if you’re at the top, and the less it can go. That’s why. Zero, you are not taking advantage of the lifter tightening up clearances. And will probably tick. Indicating slop, and not full use of the cam profile. * My thoughts. * old man w an opinion and internet access.
I used to set the lifters warm and running stock 3/4 turn down and modified motors for SBC 1/4 turn down to supposedly gain more top end rpms. It was thought that you would not as much valve float. Is that similar to your cold setting and is that true? I'm building 283+.030 with some reworked power packs and another 283 with reworked 1.94. I have an old Joe Lanati cam from the early 70s (before Holley took them over and before the Vodoo cams according to the factory I spoke to regarding this cam.) I want to know what's a good spring pressure for the older heads with a flat taped hydraulic cam. Thanks for the good motor demos not everyone has LS series motors.
950cfm is out of this world crazy! I built a 381 stroker Chevy with every sweet part I could throw on it (too a point lol). It made 511hp and 492tq. The carb is a 650cfm speed demon. (sorry, edited from 600. Just confirmed with my dyno sheet) You want the absolute smallest carb on the engine you can get away with. Then jet it what it needs. An engine is an air pump. It can only draw in so much air. That little stock wore out engine needed a 450 or 500 cfm max. Then, jet it right. The bigger the carb absolutely does not mean more fuel, more power. It's the opposite. The smaller the carb, the better the throttle response. It draws a better signal to draw in the right amount of fuel (monitored with the jets). Imagine putting on a 2000 cfm carb. More air and fuel? Nope. With a 2000 cfm carb, the same amount of air will be pumped into the engine, but the boosters and all the rest of the gizmos cannot sense the small amount of air running past the venturies. So if it cannot sense the air, it won't let fuel go into the engine. It'll be a dud, even if you put 1/4" jets in the sucker. My 2 cents. I used to rebuild carbs. With the efi setup after the carb nonsense, at least it'll get the fuel it needs
@@jakefriesenjake great post, I agree that too many people slap on too big a carb then spend alot of time modifying the carb to get it to work. Like most things its a compromise from street to strip...the ideal way to do it would be to use a smaller more responsive carb for the street then change to a bigger carb at the track for WOT.
@@cuzz63 Maybe. I seen somewhere that's why Rochester carbs have small primary butterflies and giant secondaries. Make perfect sense now. But, take that wore out 305, it's nothing special.. Low compression and all of it. The volumetric efficiency is probably lower than stock. Like maby the VE is only 80%. Where as a nascar race engine is Maybe 98% VE. A supercharged or turbo engine might be over 100% VE. There are online calculators to help you find how many cfms of air your particular engine (VE + max rpms + size) can pump through it. The little app will literally tell you the cfm of air through your carb spacer. So just match that number to the cfm rating of your favourite carb. Or just call Holley, or Barry Grant or any carb company, and ask them what they recommend for your combo. Then get your new engine and carb dynoed. My engine dyno day was the best $500 Canadian dollar (15 Years ago) I've ever spent. Stock 650 speed demon Carb had to go way richer and it loved tonns of timing (40° total advanced at 4000rpm) Jets: F = 74 R = 83 With a 6.5 power valve and 91 pump gas.
You clean everyrhing in the driveway so oil and grease goes in the gras next to the driveway and the rest into public rain water system...is there noone spends you a washing box? And an oil seperator?
Do a set of camshafts with the same lifts but different duration and different LSAs. We all know what they all do but to see a video of them all, that would be neat
David Vizard did that on a 350. With no other changes, closing LSA pumped up torque, widening LSA flattened the curve and improved idle. Duration moved torque up the rev range until heads couldn't flow past 6500rpm. 108 LSA, 252/254 duration high lift cam 1.6 rockers on exhaust side, ported 2.02/1.6 old 186 heads made a killer street engine.
@@marthamryglod291from my understanding David Vizard measures lsa from peak lift to peak lift of the cam lobes. Comp cams measures lsa center to center of the open and close events for each lobe. According to Vizard, displacement picks the lsa, overlap is what changes idle quality and rpm range in his video's that I've watched of his. So in theory from my understanding you could have a something like a 270 duration cam (116 lsa how comp measures it) with asymmetrical lobes that would idle smooth like stock and still have the torque benefits of say a 108 lsa cam as long as the lobe peaks are still at 108. Duration would be determined by your static compression ratio and what you want your dynamic compression to be. I'd love to see a test where someone took 2 cams say something like a 116 lsa cam with the same overlap at 0.050 lift. But one the peaks are at a true 116 lsa how comp measures it and the other with asymmetrical lobes that puts the lobe peaks closer to 108 lsa for a 350 or 106 for a 383. Ironically according to his formula a 110 lsa is the optimum lsa for a 305 so why is basically every comp cam in the catalog ground for a 305 😂😂
You can basically get any SBC engine to make 1 horsepower per cubic inch and run over 100,000 miles and that includes the 3 V6 variants. So how is the little 305 junk??? The challenge here are you smart enough to make a small engine put out good power and stay together. The money we spend on our junk does not play into it. If you want to talk horsepower per dollar you just go buy a complete engine ready to run, but what fun is in that???
@General Mayhem A good friend of mine put some type of camshaft in a 267 that was in his Chevy Monza and topped it with a Performer intake and a small Holley carb. Even as a teen I found that car was one scary ride. I told my buddy that all the work he was doing wouldn't help much, man was I ever wrong. It would peg the 85 mph speedometer in second gear.
15:57 People who work with EFI will have a chuckle at how the crankcase vents in the exhaust stream directly ahead of the oxygen sensor that the Sniper unit is using to read and calculate fuel flows for the unit. Added air "fools" it into thinking the engine is lean and therefor enrichens the mixture.
before you do a cam, i want to see a 1.6 ratio rocker arm swap on just the exhaust valves and then a full all round 1.6 swap. because no one ever tests the stock cams and changing the lift via the rocker. i want to know what everything else really adds compared to a cam swap, cause we all know that a cam ads power
@@kskip4242 but will that actually happen, because if it would, wouldn’t it happen to any cam, sure the 305 has a cam heat treat problem but what about other engines
They said they have never pulled the valve covers until after the ran the seafoam. How can they say how good it worked🤦♂️. WTF lol. I guess they will say anything if they are getting paid to.
Didn't some GM engines have plastic coated gear on camshaft? Seems I saw one that the plastic gets crispy and starts coming off on high mileage motors.
Yet in reality there is no need to do eo/ic on a stock/mild hft cam as you are far from the lash ramp. Up at 240@50+ on flat tappet or less on roller stuff then yes you need to be doing eo/ic. But there's no harm in educating people to do it this way as it takes the guess work out of it
These guys don't know that -0- lash isn't to make more HP, it's to prevent lifter pump up... they should have done 1/8th turn lash to limit pump up to a minimum...
@@8power857 thats the only way to do it, one up one down. We used to do engine running , back off till they clatter, tighten till they quiet, + qtr. Turn. Just makes a hell of a mess on your fender wells.
@@ronniecox109 its not "the only way to do it" as you say then describe another way to do it 🤦♂️ , there are several ways to obtain correct adjustment. All work if done correctly.
It's not a debate.. street engine needs a dual.. if the car has a camshaft that makes power up top and lives its life at 4k -7500 has deeper gears. A loose converter. Start lookin at a single...
i got a bone stock 305 c. i. worn out weezer with an edelbrock Super Victor II intake popping through the custom hood and 1000 cfm demon carb maxed velocity in a fat tire firebird, runs like hell through the turns dies at yield signs. i need to move up to a dual carb tunnel ram with velocity stacks.
Great video guy's. I have always turned 1/4 turn after zero lash with really good results. People kept telling me go 1/2 turn but understanding hydraulics and design of the lifter it only made sense to me to lightly preload since the lifter was designed to do it's job efficiently.
I love seeing what these parts do with a stock cam and compression to get a base line on small changes. Because sometimes people dont want or dont have the money to get to deep but want there car to be as efficient as it can be. Nice test!
Both are good intakes. Really depends on your combo. My 496 big block makes 550 foot pound of torque at 3,000 rpms with a dart single plane. I could only imagine if I had a rpm air gap intake on it.😜
@@springwoodslasher79 Easy there turbo, he specifically mentioned torque and a low RPM. And it's youtube comment section bench racing speculation, I think it's alright to wonder about an AirGap.
@@springwoodslasher79 you gotta remember though that any BBC is built for low end torque, ESPECIALLY the 496/8.1, most guys with em care about torque, not hp
@@loganamurray64 the guy im responding to has a 550hp big block v8 so your. 8:1 argument is beyond ignorant. Most guys care about torque not horsepower? Lol 😆 🤣 😂 😹 ... seriously GROW A BRAIN.
I had always set the lash preload at zero plus 1/4 turn. I always felt that 1/2 was a bit too much. You can hear the engine labor each time you go from 1/4 to 1/2 turn. But zero lash is not enough because you will lose a small amount of lift and duration. Anyway... that is my theory...
@@starfirerider if you are doing 3/4 turn on a GM motor..... you are an idiot LOL . GM valve train is DESIGNED to be zero lash - zero preload that gives you the best lift, duration, wear, friction, and float protection .
zero lash is NOT going to loose any lift.... its a hydraulic lifter!!!!!!!!!...... that 0.0001 lift you are "loosing" is simply taken up by the lifter pumping up . besides... hydraulic lifters will ALWAYS loose a bit of lift over a solid lifter..... again, due to it being HYDRAULIC! . the oil WILL compress a bit.... or leak.... or back flow reducing lift . . . but its SUCH a small amount probably 10HP on a 500HP motor...... . the difference between 500 and 510 (or 490) is NOT going to be felt..... nor will you be able to tell on your 1/4 mile times . . you can easily make up for the ~10hp loss by setting up your car better..... or not eating that large pizza before you put on your race suit
Howdy P-N, seafoam = "Petroleum Distillate" - why not just # 2 Fuel Oil or DIESEL ? fuel-injection + a single-plane intake ... Dual-Plane & a 600 cfm or 650 cfm Holley would have been more informative - IMHO COOP ...
i got a engine that looks just like that sitting in the back of a pu someone rebuilt it and it is a 327 sbc but i pulled it and put a stroked 454 in it it had after market ignition system i put that in the bbc with the msd 7 that the pu had to start with then put a 02xx trans in it now i just need to get it to breath . i don't think i am going to do anything with the sbc when i have 3 more stroked 454 sitting think i have 4 running 350 4 bolt sitting all are stock engines
That 950 carb is actually probably hurting power on this motor. When a carb is too big the fuel doesn't get atomized as well and actually hurts power, that's even after the carb has been tuned correctly. I've seen 430 horsepower small black chevys show no gain in power on the dyno once the carb got bigger than 750. Once a 950 was on it, power actually went down everywhere even when it was tuned correctly.
Exactly! 950cfm is out of this world crazy! I built a 381 stroker Chevy with every sweet part I could throw on it (too a point lol). It made 511hp and 492tq. The carb is a 650cfm speed demon. You want the absolute smallest carb on the engine you can get away with. Then jet it what it needs. An engine is an air pump. It can only draw in so much air. That little stock wore out engine needed a 450 or 500 cfm max. Then, jet it right. The bigger the carb absolutely does not mean more fuel, more power. It's the opposite. The smaller the carb, the better the throttle response. It draws a better signal to draw in the right amount of fuel (monitored with the jets). Imagine putting on a 2000 cfm carb. More air and fuel? Nope. With a 2000 cfm carb, the same amount of air will be pumped into the engine, but the boosters and all the rest of the gizmos cannot sense the small amount of air running past the venturies. So if it cannot sense the air, it won't let fuel go into the engine. It'll be a dud, even if you put 1/4" jets in the sucker. My 2 cents. I used to rebuild carbs.
@Common Sense Realist yeah. If I had to do it over again, I would build engine a bit differently now. I'd build a torq monster. I was basically a kid 16 years ago and I was probably going to race it at the strip plus I wanted higher hp numbers. I'd put a high lift cam, regular cam duration and a dual plane intake on it. I'd stick with a 600 or 650 carb tho. Instead, I put edelbrock Victor Jr heads and intake on it. The cam I picked is good for a loppy idle tho 😉
I'd like to see the test done at 1 full turn the way GM always recommended back in the day. Plus I never made an adjustment on new lifters without pre oiling the engine by using a adapter and a drill to pump up the oil pressure up.
It takes ages but you can actually turn the lifter almost to the bottom of travel. It requires a bit of planning during build up as the pushrods may have to be longer but there are some advantages and you guessed it, some disadvantages. There are some really excellent articles for racers that must run hydraulic OEM style. The rest of us can run short travel lifters and they need to be set exactly as the manufacturer recommends.
1 Full turn can pump up the lifters until the valves hit the pistons at high RPMs with a performance cam... 1 full turn is to avoid ever needing a readjustment on stock cams...
@@BuzzLOLOL so you're an L1 certified Master Tech like me, who has been to GM School. I've done hundreds of engines setting up one full turn on a new set of lifters on a new camshaft. If you're afraid of lifters pumping up go solid lifters like a good old Duntov 30/30 camshaft.
i can testify...a semi worn out 305 loves more cam(i used the l-82 vette cam) better heads (i used vortecs) a dual plane (edlebrock rpm ) and a 650 holley...makes for a fun mini mouse.....this engine has maybe 8-8.5 to 1 compression and lives on 87 octane
Exactly! 950cfm is out of this world crazy! I built a 381 stroker Chevy with every sweet part I could throw on it (too a point lol). It made 511hp and 492tq. The carb is a 600cfm speed demon. You want the absolute smallest carb on the engine you can get away with. Then jet it what it needs. An engine is an air pump. It can only draw in so much air. That little stock wore out engine needed a 450 or 500 cfm max. Then, jet it right. The bigger the carb absolutely does not mean more fuel, more power. It's the opposite. The smaller the carb, the better the throttle response. It draws a better signal to draw in the right amount of fuel (monitored with the jets). Imagine putting on a 2000 cfm carb. More air and fuel? Nope. With a 2000 cfm carb, the same amount of air will be pumped into the engine, but the boosters and all the rest of the gizmos cannot sense the small amount of air running past the venturies. So if it cannot sense the air, it won't let fuel go into the engine. It'll be a dud, even if you put 1/4" jets in the sucker. My 2 cents. I used to rebuild carbs.
Its not the best performance motor but its still a motor! We hate on the 305 but its around still and without a budget for a bigger motor, let the 305 breathe! Lol, it does just fine.
This video came just in time, I am working on a Chevy with a 305 and wasn't that sure about some timing things, so this saved me. You guys are heroes! Greets from Holland.
Just curious, is a chevy pretty common or uncommon over there in Holland? I'll admit to my ignorance being a US boy but just was an interesting thought
@@ryanroberts3742 as a old-timer yes, in the Netherlands Chevy's are very common. Well asking questions is always a good thing, how else will we learn things. But as daily stuff we have a lot of 4 and even 3 cilinder cars (ford, Peugeot, Skoda, VW, etc) because of the high gas prise and emissions rules. I wish we would have more V8 stuff here because we have to import everything we want to do on our V8 old-timer cars.
Sadly China told most politicians that they wont do any business with underdeveloped countries that still allow CO2 emitting traffic, aircrafts or industry after 2030...I am sure USA and UK also will be forced by China to 100% electric traffic because today no industrialized country can afford sanctions by China....:-( China also banned all kind of synthetic fuels or hydrogen combustion. Because these are not energy efficient) :-/
By modern standards this EFI is pretty basic. When you can find a multipoint sequential injection system on the cheapest of economy cars, single point injection at the throttle body is kind of a blast from the past...
Match the intake to your combo. This little 305 needs all the help it can get with torque. Place that intake on a 383. Then going with a single plane makes more sense. And if your going big block. It already makes torque. Single plane all the way.
I have exactly what you just mentioned. 383 SBC, full roller, AFR 195s, with a port match Vic Jr. That motor is too much fun on street, with plenty of tire roast on tap..
Circle track guys may consider "zero lash" by taking out lash altogether and adding washers inside lifter to greatly reduce hydraulic space. Making it act more like a solid lifter. Alot of measuring is done inside lifter bore and the whole job is alot of time taking measurements. It does increase power by a few.
I don’t care what anyone says about the 305, I like them. All the intake manifold test proved, is that the intake isn’t the restriction on the engine. The heads are the restriction. If you do a head shootout you’ll see bigger horsepower gains with the different manifolds
I remember back in the 80's Eddie Bristol would adjust the rockers with the engine running and oil would be going everywhere and he told me and my brother that this is the proper way to do it. 😂
I really like the contents old-school small what's a start off with a parts and everything that's been shown maintenance and all that but please neither one of you's throw out good jokes
I prefer a "hot" cam with a single plane intake and a "modest" carb to get a good, high-revving small block. If running a big block, I would go with a dual-plane intake, since they usually don't rev as high and you want that low rpm torque.
It's amazing how low power US V8s are, over this side of the pond 70's Ford Pinto 2lt are making 207HP with basic work, and this 350 is a whopping 5.7lt and only making 220hp, and we have normal cars you use to go shopping that are 500HP from 2lt, 1lt stock cars that more than this 350.
@ POWERNATION, It must be in "Air Of The Night and or Krytonite" vs "Atmospheric Pressure" known as Allergy Issues caused by Fallout. Pick and Choose the Rightful Answer pertaining to your Behavioral Characteristics.............LOL😃😋🤔🤫
Wait wait wait. You put a 950cfm 4 barrel carb on a 305CI engine? Over carb much? The most that thing would ever need is like 650cfm and really even that is too much for that turd.
