Gonna have to go home and double check my flash hiders. I just cranked em down without a torque wrench and without backing off and re tightening to time them. I guess it’s a good thing I haven’t shot them yet
I've been using the new style crush washers. I haven't been using a torque wrench when installing an A2 or a center position muzzle device. I'll get it timed to about 320 degrees then back off. The crush washer is crushed for that location so the A2 will get back close to the 320 degree position with just hand tightening and then another tighten of about 40 degrees (about an 1/8th turn) or so to get the A2 centered. After watching this video though I'm wondering if it was still a little too tight? I'll check a couple of them to see where I'm at. Great video!
should be fine. The crush washer is designed to crush and is a softer steel there by releasing the crush force .You probably know already. In this video he's using a split washer which is made of a harder metal
Thanks for the video. I'm building an upper and have a good amount of money invested in a Ballistic Advantage barrel. One muzzle device mounting tutorial I watched stated that a flash hider can be torqued up to 80 pounds! Others were saying between 25 and 40. The Brownell's video says to avoid over-torqueing but then says 30 is acceptable... and get this: They used a pin punch that seemed close to the right diameter to check for bore constriction instead of a bore erosion gage like you did. 15 it is. Thanks again.
What is actually happening to cause it to constrict? I would have thought that the force would be applied back to the shoulder of the barrel, with threads engaging each other. I guess I'm just trying to make sense of what causes the barrel to constrict like that.
Great video. I will also install a dead air 3-prong flash hider, and they recommend torquing it to 35. I don't need it to be timed and will be used with a suppressed. What torque do you recommend, 15 or 20?
Great video. I have been trying to find information on whether to use a barrel vice or a reaction rod while doing this work. What did you use? There is conflicting views everywhere.
Any reaction rod is good for installing, removal is the area of debate. A reaction rod could cause a very stuck muzzle device to allow the barrel unscrewing from from extension, possibly, thus barrel vices are recommended for removal but I have never found any barrel vice blocks that would hold tight enough to prevent barrel from spinning. I use reaction rod, if barrel unscrews from ext it probably wasn't never tight enough to begin with and you probably would want to know this.
Thank you for including the end with the barrel going back to normal, now my stupid self can sleep at night knowing my dumb ass mistakes can eventrually be fixed thanks to steel springiness/memory
Heard about this but never saw it actually demonstrated. Very happy I’ve settled on Smith Vortex for most everything. Screw it on hand tight and shoot a mag and it self tightens.
Google "3 Prong Flash Hider Tool Thordsen Customs" it should come right up. Works great, highly recommended. I do NOT recommend their A2 flash hider tool however. Dont be tempted to buy that one while your shopping. 3 Prong also available at Brownells, but sadly currently OOS!
Hey man, I’m going to be installing a dead air 3 prong torque spec is 35 I want to only torque it to 15-20ft lbs (I’m not using a can) , that being said I will not be using a lock washer like you use I have the accu washers from precision armament should I use aeroshell 33ms wipe it off then apply rocksett or should I only use rocksett? Some advice would be appreciated.
What would this do in the negative? I've read that a lot of guns are constricted at the muzzle for accuracy, is there a danger of it being too constricted or is the issue have to do with a loss in velocity?
Great reduction in accuracy. Funny thing, I posted this video over a year ago and just last week, SOLGW and Brownells almost exactly re created my video lol. On Brownells page.
Google PT&G gauges and find theirsite. Their website is hard to navigate, I would just call or email them and tell them you need a 5.56 Muzzle Erosion Gauge.
@@ar-15techtipsinunder5minut8 PTG-11235-004. .22 CF Muzzle Erosion Gauge. Thanks fellow. I think they are the only people that make one. This tip was great. I took a high end scoped AR long range class about a year ago. The instructor said several times that he had seen rifles that should have been shooting well (1.0 to 1.5 moa) but were shooting more like 2.0 to 2.5. They unscrewed the muzzle device, and reinstalled at a reasonable torque and the rifle settled right in. Great tip Mr. Thank you.
