The important difference between air-dried and kiln-dried lumber 

feel better. I deleted it ? don't worry about responding.

@@tbac2432 - Dude, you can't tell people to "settle down" when they don't get your joke, then get all offended when someone makes a little joke in return. You're taking this stuff WAY to seriously!

hahaha...not...:) if I could give you 3 face palm emojis I would. lol

How does ridge carbide compare to forest blades like the woodworker 2 and chop master. I use the forest and love them. They are in the same price range and the factory is local to me which is great for sharpening service.

Hey stumpy nubs, i realise this is a late response to your video, sorry. I just purchased my first saw mill in february 2022, I intend to build a lot, a mill house, a solar kiln, a shop/barn and ultimately a house. Furniture may follow. What i need now is guideance, there used to be a book published for (or by) the DNR/US forestry department, the information inside was most valuable to a sawyer, pertaining to how to build a kiln, wood species, optimal cuts, kiln times, calculating board foot, how to charge for lumber, Etc. Etc.. When i asked my local DNR forestry office about this book, the reaction was less than helpful. Being told to just google or you tube search the info I may need when needed was not the favoured response I was hoping for. Despite living in northern MN, the information is scarce and those who have the information are afraid to loose business or their job (insert underlying condition of a union mentality) In short, I have little help or guidance after cutting a tree down. If you know of such a book or web page and are willing to point me in that direction I'd be most grateful. Thank you. Don

Azuban Kull agreed! I’m looking to start the process of mfg my own lumber.

@@artiet5982 It's a lot of work and any logs smaller than 14" diameter will only yield junk. Be very precise in your stacking and throw a lot of extra weight on top or half your boards will be so badly warped as to be unusable. The process isn't very complicated. Green wood stinks. If you store it in your attached garage, the smell will invade your house. Still, the summer I spent sawing wood on my friend's mill saved me a lot of money (I still have some planks a decade later!) and having furniture that I took from tree to finished product is very satisfying, so go for it.

Agreed! That's the perfect video idea.

Did this ever happen?

@@michaelgavin7621 Don't think so

Wood that has a bunch of worm holes from insects can actually make for very nice projects. The wood just needs a heat treatment to sanitize prior to use. If it's not something you're up for then you could always sell it to someone who is.

@@btarb242 Yes, I will probably get it out , wrap it in black plastic and let the Oklahoma sun heat treat it.

So you moonlight as a nuclear engineer? ;)

Do you have plans on how you built it?

Just watched a bunch of videos.

You should be air dry by now 😁

Lucky you, lol. Humidity around where I live is usually a low of 70%; the past few days it's been 90%+

@@stevebengel1346 yeah same, I made a segmented bowl for my grandparents who live in about 20-30% humidity and the next time I visited them it was full of cracks

Low humidity areas likely have way less available native wood suitable for furniture building.

Uk outside drying gets you no lower than 18-20%. I’ve 14 year old Cherry which is shed dried to 11%. Wood will only dry externally to your local emc value.

stringmanipulator Whenever we air dry larger slabs or wood boards, I put plastic over over the ends. It’s amazing how much that has cut down twisting/bowing/splitting. Moisture escapes out of the end grain way faster than the other sections of the board. By slowing it down, we’ve eliminated many of our air-drying related problems.

Yup. Brilliant resource.

Negative. HF Vac kilns are really only good for soft woods like white pine. On any decent hardwoods like white oak, maple, red oak, walnut etc, HF vac kilns will ruin the internal integrity of the wood.

Haven't noticed much change here in NC, but admittedly we have less humidity year round than FL. I think the important thing is to let the lumber acclimate for a few weeks - no matter where it comes from. Even then I always let in stabilize for a few days after re-sawing or any major operation before assembly, both for stress relief if any and if it might have been case hardened.

As described in "Understanding Wood" by R. Bruce Hoadley the water content of wood -- even kiln dried -- will continue to follow the relative humidity of the environment in which it is stored (I'm REALLY paraphrasing here). Basically, take a snapshot of the graph James displayed; wood will vary in moisture content at a rate similar to that graph. I say similar because absorption rates vary by species: something you can go and look up if you need more accurate specifics.

I would like to see that also