Hey Luke! American here. Thank you to you and the guys for helping spread the platform to different regions. I have now started looking for the perfect donor car for a w108/w109 project that I plan to do an om606 in. Without these videos I probably would have a hard time getting good information on these engines considering they weren't all that common here in the states. Thanks guys, and I look forward to receiving parts from you guys over the next couple of years!
Very pedagogical explanation, love your enthusiasm and these informative videos! Getting excited to start a diesel project before this fuel becomes a controlled substance 🤐
Very good video well explained. I used a Hartridge. Machine 56 yrs ago at the technical college we did all the tests etc Including phasing and calibrating the in line pumps. Also stripping pumps and repairing to the required high standard which was req.
on my cummins P7100 return line i have a holley gas 10an fuel pressure regulator with boost port of a carbureted turbocharged engine and it works perfect stays right at 30psi (2.07 bar) 👍
Liquid filled pressure gauges may give you false readings, depending on application. Density of the liquid filling changes with temperature, and in a hot engine bay will give you a different reading than in a controlled environment.
It’s the same with new GDI engines as well. Boosting low side pressure increases the delta so the high side is much higher and that’s with a factory high side pump.
Would be worth pointing out that putting positive fuel pressure in front your injection pump isnt always a great idea... For any pump with a built in (fuel pressure controlled) dynamic timing system (So basically any modern rotary pump (VE etc), this is a bad idea, the second you add pressure, you will mess up this timing curve (Add a bunch of timing at idle / lower demand where you dont want it).... Worth mensioning as I have seen many of times on customers vehicles where a "performance fuel pump" has been added inline to there VE pump supply line, and then the engine sounds like a bag of nails...purely because the pump just runs at max timing 24/7.... For pumps like the VE, the key to higher rpm power lies with restrictions in multiple places in the body, and the plunger return setup AND fuel restriction...You CAN (and need to) add a pump, but other modifications are required at the same time. Personally I wouldnt generally drill out a return fitting, its largely there to purge air and provide a small ammount of fuel flow for cooling.... If you are having to drill out your return restrictor, you are somewhat defeating the point in adding more inlet flow? Would be better to fit a (decent) fuel pressure regulator on the inlet side, with its own return to tank...that way you can run as big a pump as you want, and set the inlet pressure to be constant, largely regardless to demand.... and you arnt wasting perfectly good flow going right through the pump and down the return.... If the pump wants 100% lift pump flow, the regulator will just shut its return right off to try and maintain inlet pressure. Just a few thoughts that may be helpful to a few people....
I JUST finished messing with my mechanical VE pump on my ‘97 AAZ 1.9td VW. I made a pressure gauge adapted to the head of another out bolt, suspecting my pump is a tad weak. From what the internet and forums say, I was about 5 psi less at 1000rpm and about 10 @ 2k rpm. So i took a punch and hammer and knocked the fuel pressure regulating pin in a hair, and the car seemed to respond well, the pressure increased a bit to supposed normal spec, but it sounds like a bag of nails. I rebuilt the engine, ported the cylinder head with freshened up valve grind and seats, added an intercooler setup, yet to de-restrict the exhaust, but the car’s final issues I feel lie in the pump. The real doozie is that with the same pedal travel in the same gear, with the car in the same load, even with the engine and turbo heat-soaked, it’ll suddenly be a different car, it springs to life and actually has TORQUE and pulls like a freight train. I’m at a loss.
Mercedes m pumps don’t actually have any timing control, the gear on the front of the pump has a centrifugal mechanism that advances timing with more rpm,
@@darrenjlobb any idea on what this surge of power and torque might come from on an old VE pump diesel? I know I’m “that guy” on youtube, but you look like you know these pumps more. No one has got a clue that I’ve asked, people just say take it to a shop
On VE pumps be careful with inlet pressure changes and drilling out return banjo bolt restrictions as these are both instrumental in advance curve, the regulator setting as set by the plug above is a max setting, the pressure rise curve is dependent on rpm and bleed rate back to tank which moves timing piston as pressure rises, this can be altered by low pressure pump wear ( for those that don't know its at the front of injection pump) causing slower rise rate or blocked return orifice screen or orifice itself or someone replacing banjo bolt with different orifice size ( smaller or larger)or drilling out etc, as pump rpm increases so does fuel volume which causes a rise in pressure,when due to bleed rate thru orifice it can't return to tank fast enough as well as what is actually being delivered to the injectors factored in and the advance piston pushes the cam ring advancing injection, usually 1 of two scenarios happen, LP pump wears and inj timing retarded thru whole or part of range or orifice incorrect and advances too soon ( too small) and runs hot, or lays down in top end (too big) from not enough advance, If your pump static timing is correct ( usually done by plunger travel method) and is running hot at high rpm but not blowing black smoke and Max regulated pressure is in spec then most likely running too far advanced from return restriction, if you have a spare return banjo bolt try running a ever so slightly larger hole and see if the running hot changes to a higher rpm or goes away ( assuming return lines are clear and tank not over pressuring) this is/ was a huge issue with Toyota 1HZ mechanical pumps and some 5L pumps, Toyota had revised return banjo bolts thru Denso dealer program when correctly diagnosed this also sometimes lead to over injection on stop start driving and oil sludging from fuel contamination in oil
I recently purchased 2003 Case IH JX95, made in Turkey, with a Bosch VE injection pump and an Iveco 4 cylinder engine. I can provide model numbers if you are able to respond to this post. It only has 375 hours on it. The most unfortunate part of the fuel system design is the fuel tank is well below the injection pump and there is no fuel pump supplying pressure. It depends on a siphon system to supply fuel. So I took the tractor out for it's first real bit of work yesterday. At road speed, high speed/high gear on an incline the engine was definitely searching for more fuel. I was wondering if installing a cheap electrical inline fuel pump would help my situation. For my background I am a degreed automation engineer with a career in the oil & gas industry. But I live on the family farm with my late father being a lifelong farm who always said there wasn't a tractor worth anything unless the fuel delivery was increased from the factory. I know he somehow increased the fuel delivery(with help from a local mechanic...who has also passed) to our pulling tractors. One was a White 105, another was an Allis Chalmers and another was our Ford TW-25. All tractors from the 1970s and 1980s. This same pump also has a leak. It appears to be between the hydraulic head and the body. Perhaps the o-ring needs replaced. It it possible to remove and reinstall the hydraulic head with the pump still mounted on the tractor? Or do I need to remove the injection pump to perform this task in a vertical orientation.?
Is it possible to use a MAP sensor as a fuel pressure sensor? I don't see why not, tbh. I'm only worried the materials in the MAP sensor could react badly with the fuel. I'd have to open one up and check, or try to find out what kind of elastomer the diaphragm in the sensor is made of. It's not a problem for me to connect it electrically as I'm an automation engineer. It's just a 5v supply, grond and a 0-5V signal that is 2,5V at atmospheric pressure. I want to do this because I want to check my fuel presure while driving, and also check if there is a vacuum because my electric fuel pump is dynamically controlled and comes on and off by itself. I also want to build an auto start system that inhibits starting before my veg oil fuel has reached a proper pressure at the pump.
So what your saying is the fuel pump is sucking the fuel out of the fuel lines. What if you had bigger fuel lines.? Almost like the IP needs a reservoir/surge tank on top of it
why not use a spring type return bolt with an m12 to m14 adapter and have as good as constant pressure? like the bosch ....000 (1,5 bar) or ... 089 ( 3 bar) . The internal pressure (as small as it is in an in line pump) doesn't even have any influence to wear of the element, fuel quality does! return bolts with a calibrated hole only have their use in VE-type pumps where different internal pressure is needed for mechanical timing.... nice little bench btw . ( i operate eps 711, eps 815 , AVM2 , hartridge 400 , and multiple others for cr). Kind regards
vovlvo fl6 used 24 volt 044 eqiv on a bosch 044 from factory,and funnily enough didnt have same failure issues like the transits which either doid not have alift puymp or flowed the fuel back through the pump and these pumps need flow for coolong
@@Mekzuc91 but you need flow to maintain pressure, it no good having 1000 psi closed pressure only to drop to 1psi when the taps open. The pump is going to raise the fuel to the required injector pressure but the pump needs an adequate flow rate to do that.
@@WhiskeyGulf71 you said it in your first line. You need flow to maintain pressure. Therefore if pressure doesn't drop bellow spec it means flow hasn't been compromised. If pressure did drop it would indicate flow isn't adequate.
So interesting this wish you could help me a with my crappy Delphi pump on my focus ST can’t get enough fuel now it’s maxed out no one wants to know 😢😢
But why do you read 2 bar at the test bench and 1 bar on the pump with no flow (blocked return port on pump)? The pressure with no flow should be the same. I think you need to open the breater rubber walve on the top off the pressure gauge.
I don´t get it; bmw 318s and 325s for instance do not have a supply pump; the FI pump creates the internal pressure (which we can manipulate), the line is under suction; what pump is that on the video?
HI! Nice video! I have a OM-314 engine with Bosch PEs4a90d diesel pump in my old Ford F-100. Is it possible to change the elements of my pump to achieve more power?. I really like my mercedes engine, but it's slow. Thanks from Brazil
yes i chased fuel pressure problems for years,now wherever possible i use holley blue or bosch 044 depending on how much lift pump pressure i need,i worked at united fuel injection in perth WA and i was the first there to fit elec lift pumps to vehilces,some idiots are trying to say i cant use an 044 on a bosch p pump which i have fitted to a mercedes truck without issues
@@rod5262 i dont agree with the assumtion it should not go over 45 psi in video,tractor pullers,diesel drag race etc routinely run 120psi+ into P pump,driveability issues aint an issue to them though LOL
@@DieselPumpUK i want a properly built pump but dont know a trustworthy guy that could build it. I will try to build one myself, but i know its wont be that good becouse i dont have the equipmeant and knowledge.
hello luke you make those 8.5 sound awesome do they come in all your pumps w anti jerk and if so in which one or how do i look it up in your website, looking to purchase one would like to know if its still driveable on daily conditions or would it burn a lot of diesel looking to build some around (400-450)
hellooooo , i have put an om606 with om 603 injectionpump 5.5 mm , how many hp can i get out of the om 606 with stock turno now ? thx and luv youre videos
I have both Powershot LPG injection and a Snow Performance water/meth injection(dont use LPG and water/meth at the same time!) on my highly modified Nissan Patrol turbo diesel. Water/meth kit gives you more power than using the LPG kit. Cheers!
@@antoniotod9614 no not the sound. But you can clearly see a reduction in black smoke, when the water/meth injection kicks in, not so much with LPG actually.
Hello guys. I have a om 604 all stock. I pretend to put a turbo on it. Haw many HP and nm can i extract from stock internals and 7.5 mm om601 Pump ??( C220 d 2.2l om604 95 HP N/A)
a guy with a flow bench should know inlet pressure doesnt matter. flow is all thats required. pressure is merely the restriction to that flow, which we know is there. because its the fuel pump.
@@Diesel8290 no. the elements are empty, a void. when they open atmospheric pressure, which is all around us all the time, will be happy to do the work for you. Thats why when you knock over a glass of water, it spills. You dont need to pump it out. You guys have some VERY basic misunderstandings of how things work.
This is garbage. You cannot, cannot feed more fuel into an older mechanical pump with no return line. Makes zero difference. Intact forcing more fuel into those pumps without a return damages them.
