Had mine for 11 years and it still outshines the competition...it's traveled the world and did the job in every environment of earth. Paired with a silky saw and you're good to go in all conditions (the A1 also pairs with the saw beautifully). Buyers should keep in mind that it is a utility blade not a specialist blade i.e. scandi for woodworking. Show me a knife that doesn't role or chip and I'll show you a knife that is lightly used.
Same here. Fallkniven all the way. For those that want better "scandi-like" performance from a Fallkniven, get good with stones (or whatever system you have) and thin out the metal behind the edge a good bit both sides. Then finish off with a good strop again and it really changes cutting performance for the better. Fallknivens do come with a thick convex which is only really useful if you do mostly just tons of batoning and chopping with it...which I don't do much. Always have my axe on me as well.
Haha my Fallkniven used to look all scratched up like that too. When I first got it I was new to mirror polish finishes and convex grinds. My first attempt at resharpening, I used the course diamond side of a DC4 and just went ham sammich on it.....🤦♂️ Learned that lesson quick lol. Got it sharp but I committed an aesthetic atrocity. Years later I have water stones and can free hand sharpen a convex easy so got those scratches all buffed out.
I just bought a used H1 and a used f1 for under $200 together. Super excited and can't wait to receive them. I'm currently using an LT Wright genesis flat ground in A2 steel but needed something with more corrosion resistance, thank you for helping me make my decision
Did you like the H1 or F1 better in the hand? I have the H1 and A1. I think the square A1 handle is uncomfortable. But I like the way the F1 looks. But has a very similar handle to A1, just smaller.
Nice video. I've just brought my F1. All my other knives (Woodlore, Garberg etc) are all scandi but I wanted to find out what all you guys saw in the F1 lol. Will take out for a play this weekend, looking forward to it. Great channel, subscribing was an easy decision :-)
Good to see you back on RU-vid brother. Check out the Fallkniven F1D in CoS steel. It’s completly worth the upgrade, takes a keener edge, no chipping, holds an edge more than twice as long as VG10 but still very easy to sharpen.
No not even close to VG10. I’ve thinned the edge down on mine and beat the crap out of it with no edge problems. CoS will slightly roll that can be worked out with a strop vs chip. I’d say def get one. The rumor is Fallkniven will eventually replace VG10 with CoS as it’s flagship steel. Check out this vid: m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ASNtsrhlLVo.html Hope this helps.
The Fallkniven S1 pro looks like a beautiful knife but a bit pricey though. I would have thought that it would come with a better and upgraded sheath for the price of the knife. The sheath looks very disappointing for the pro series knives.
For the older sheaths I cleaned the surface of the sheath with rubbing alcohol then took a strip of the soft side of velcro and attached it to the sheath covering the retention tab and it’s held for tenish years now
Kept buying them over the years , and ended up with 16 of them. F1 makes a great EDC knife to always have on you. , and pairs well with an axe and saw for bushcraft use. Sure there's better knives and steels , but for what it is , it works great. I even like the zytel sheath. Compact and easy to carry. Thanks.
Sale some knives buy a better sheath 👍 Check out the Cudeman Sanabria and Sanabria 2mini . I am retiring my knives cause of them. Takes about 45 minutes of sandpaper and loaded strop to convex the edge . Hands down the best blade edge design I've ever used.
It would be my favorite knife, too, if it didn't have a convex grind. I prefer the classic Scandi grind. Also, it's a bit too thick for my taste. I own a couple of F1s, and a couple of S1s, but I still prefer the blade thickens and edge geometry of a Mora Companion :)
@@bluesGs The ones that I bought to use are all the regular Companion in stainless steel. I also got two from Ray Mears' website for collecting purposes (anniversary edition, blade etched with the text "25 years of bushcraft") which I'm pretty sure are the heavy duty version, carbon steel. P.S. I can't help myself and every now and again I buy a new Mora just because they are so affordable, so now I think I have at least 10 or 12, most of them brand new. I think all future generations in my family will be equipped for life :))
Excellent video my friend,why do the Falkniven knives develop Micro Chips.Everyone complaining why don't they stick with carbon steel,what's with all these super steels.Stay safe.
William Prendergast let me explain. This is a Swedish fighter pilot survival knife, made especially for them. The theory is that stainless steel won’t rust in a heavy jungle rain for long periods of time but stainless steel can break in half if you beat on the knife or use it as a pry bar and stainless steel can’t hold a sharp edge after repeated abuse. It needs sharpening too much. Steel on the other hand holds a edge like no other and won’t snap in half if beat on but the knife will rust in heavy rain and become almost useless. So what the knife maker did is make a knife that has a steel inside but wrapped stainless steel around the iron steel and forged it into one knife. So now it’s a strong as steel and holds and edge but does not rust. The best of both worlds,Two knives in one
Nice video , u can see from the blade that it has been around. I had mine for 3 yrs but when I lost it i upgraded to f1pro. I like it at last as much as the F1.
Thanks ! Oh interesting, how do they compare to each other ? From the pics i thought the pro would be more of a tank, heavier wider, but was concerned it wouldnt slice as well and would loose agility. Steel is different too.
Pour faire barre a mine ou pied de biche je conseil un ESEE 5 :) (ou une vraie barre a mine ou un vrai pied de biche) C'est certain que le F1 est faillible, mais en l'utilisant comme on le voit dans mes videos je ne l'ai jamais abimé. Par curiosité vous quel était le but du levier en mode survie ?
@@bluesGs un ptit levier dans une chaise en boi (il a quand même était utilisé comme couteau de survie par les mili de l'air suédois) Un gerber stongarm en 420hc a 70e est de très loin bien plus résistant...
@@bluesGs Je suis moi-même possesseur d'un esee 5 et j'ai bien apprécié votre travail sur la vidéo👍 Vous connaissez la marque Survive Knives? Pour moi aujourd'hui ils font partie du haut du panier des couteaux survie/bushcraft. Leur cpm3v est amélioré par un traitement thermique qu'ils ont appelés Delta perfectionnant ainsi celui-ci. Pour le moment mon gso 4.1 mange sans broncher tout ce que je lui met dans la gueule, sachant que je suis un casseurs de couteaux pas que je le veuille mais a la recherche d'une perfection qui n'existe pas... Petite anecdotes j'ai méchamment abîmé l'hiver dernier un Bark River Tope Racon en cpm3v simplement en batonan, le couteau a shippé comme si c'était un acier complètement pourrit. Ma conclusion est que leurs cpm3v est bon pour les taches ayant besoin d'une longue et belle tenue du tranchant mais surtout pas pour de la survie et lite pour du bushcraft donc plus pour la chasse. Par contre il faut le dire ils sont très pros, ils mon remboursés le couteau au prix ou je l'ai acheter.
@@alexwolf2203 Ah eh bien c'est une belle collection :) J'ai quelques bark river (gunny, bravo 1.5 et mini bushcrafter) , le A2 du 1/5 est tres bon mais je ne l'ai jamais trop abusé (comme le F1 quoi , j'ai tapé pas mal dessus pour batonner, sans plus) le cpm 3V du mini bushcrater m'a un peu déçu je m'attendais a une tenue de coupe plus longue. Je connais les survive knives , j'ai failli acheter un GO 5 (sans le finger choil sur ricasso) mais je n'ai plus trop l'occasion de jouer avec des couteaux et j'ai préféré acheter des haches :D
Maybe you allready found the answer but the cheapest and easiest way to sharpen a F1 or keep it sharp is to use a soft nail polish file with different sides. I use the polishing side for stropping after every use and mine never gets dull. It's important to keep the convex edge. That's pretty easy with a soft file :-) But buy your own one - otherwise your wife WILL get angry ;-)
Hello Will, I hope the past 4 years have treated you well or as well as possible in the current world condition. We miss your content and hope you return. Wish you all the best my friend.
yep cardboard has nasty stuff in it , it can dull a blade quick. I don't do it often but if i have to it's no big deal. I just touch the edge with the dc4 and strop and it's back to business :)
