"I wouldn't advise going in there so early, there are tigers about" explained my driver Art in broken english. And like that the hook wound in a little tighter for hiking The Monk's Trail - albeit a little later in the morning. If a tiger was going to take me, I needed to be able to document it.
I'd read extensively through online blogs about The Monk's Trail after Googling "Hiking trails, Chang Mai." It quickly became apparent this was the Big Pappa Paddy of trails within the cities vicinity.
We staked out the trail head drop-off point on the previous evening and while initially believing it was overkill, I'm glad we did. Suthep Rd becomes Suthep Alley and at this point the street lighting is almost non-existent with resident walls closing in around the van, together with garbage cans and stray dogs roaming the night. The approach to the trail-head gives every indication like you are no-where near the beginning of a popular walk and rather the scene of an ambush where large amounts of baht are exchanged before continuing.
On the morning of the hike my driver Art dropped me at the kick off point around sun-up. I explained that he must exhume my camera from the bowels of a tiger were it to take me as there would be some "cracking" shots on the way down. I nervously laughed at the thought and then anxiously peered around the empty, dirt carpark as his van crept away. Not normally one to hope for unplanned company on the trail, a small hop of delight occurred as cars began pulling up with enthusiastic, lycra pedalling joggers pouring out. On one hand I realised any threat of tigers was lessened but the threat of someone asking me, "take any good photo's?" every 30-minutes had just increased exponentially. Like a bad page turn in a Choose Your Own Adventure novel suddenly I wanted the tiger adventure back.
The walk up to Wat Pha Lat is pleasant with some worthwhile diversions off the trail to the burbling brook that runs parallel, giving glimpses to the lushness of the jungle as it laps up the constant water source. The real "o-lay" moment though is saved for the crossing of the quaint curved bridge into the temple grounds. The immediate impression is something akin to "Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom" just without the heart plucking part, child labour camp or any impeding sense of doom.
Beyond any fantasies to curled whips and brown fedora hats, the immediate word which sprung to mind was; 'serenity'. The view of the temple is teased through the canopy as you catch glimpses of the "dragon staircase" (my words) leading to a waterfall below. The surrounding area soon opens up to an incredible visage which immediately encourages you to plop down on the rocks and take in the spectacular surrounds as water curls it's way down the rock face past you and Wat Pha Lat's collection of temple buildings. The surrounding jungle is no doubt, skilfully maintained by the monks so as to feel ever-present but not so hungry as to completely obscure the temple grounds layout.
With a limited crowd (hike-in only), no food stalls, no hawkers and no cab drivers this Buddhist temple immediately demands reverence and respect. While some limited signs encourage this behaviour the necessity for this is very limited beyond an occasional camera touting tourist with a view-finder suctioned cupped to their eye-socket. Try as I did I'm not so sure I always managed to avoid being this person. Not one for practiced meditation this is one of those rare destinations that encourages quiet solitude and contemplation.
The second half of the hike to Wat Phra That Doi Suthep ramps up the steepness of the slope and while the grade won't have you haunched over on all fours, dependent on time of year, the humidity can leave you drowning in sweat. So the strong recommendation is to be wearing a Terry, a hanky just won't cut it.
Considered as one of the most sacred pilgrimage spots in Thailand you get a sense for this by the sheer numbers of people that flood into view its grandeur and gold colour spectacular, even before removing the footwear to step inside.
My preference was the peaceful, nature embracing surrounds of Wat Pha Lat. Here the combination of nature and architecture live a comfortable relationship that collectively impresses far beyond the gaudy gold, jewels and riches of its more well known cousin further up the hill.
Purchasable prints from hiking adventures: galleries.gett...
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1 окт 2024
