Couple things. 90% of all vehicles including gassers have a crankcase breather. 99% of people have never changed lmfao. Number 2 it's a Ford power stroke. Everyone knows they are trash. Cummins is it's completely own company and only make engines so they can research a lot more then most. Duramax is a sub company and still made by Chevy. Duramax last along time but have cooling issues like all GM's. 1.9 and 1.6 VW diesels last forever as well. P.s. most semis and trains actually use Cummins. BNSF uses a 9.6L in push trains and a 12.7L in pull trains.
The new ones? Sure. A lot of older ones aren't that way though lol. Sure every engine has a weakness, but something like the 5.9 12v Cummins surely doesn't require much parts replacement if taken care of.
You can’t just delete the filter you have to do a reroute kit with either an internal/ external or no catch can. Crankcase pressure doesn’t affect running but excessive pressure is hard on the motor and seals. Since my truck has a reroute hose routed next to driver wheel well it has a small amount of smoke that comes up depending on load and temperature. Doesn’t bother me at all, I’d rather know my motor is happy.
A catch-can will keep the majority of oil and contaminants out of the crankcase filter. I run the Mishimoto unit on my '19 and it has worked very well. I empty it at every oil change and it has massively increased the lifespan of the crankcase filter since the filter only needs to catch the super fine stuff that gets past the Mishimoto. It's like putting a dust extractor in line with your shop vac. Filters last way longer when they only have to deal with the little stuff.
@@danteinouye6098 sorry for the late reply but yes. Those are fun when mounted on a Edge. I prefer to drop the engine, I find it easier to work on. Some guys in my shop have done water pump on 3.5 on Edges without dropping engine but removing the front cover is a pain. On other cars like Explorer and Taurus are a lot easier, they have more space.
I've noticed so many people also neglect replacing their fuel filters. They go over twice as many miles as is recommended and don't replace it until it until it becomes an obvious problem. And then wonder why their fuel pumps go out prematurely.
My Ford Dearer is slacking. They have been servicing my work reuck for years. And now, with 120k on, I don't think ever been replaced. I tell them to fix anything that need fix. If my truck down I'm down and im loosing more money they it would cost to fix it.
It depends on the shop. If guys aren't up on their factory training, they will overlook things. Also, some places will get so fed up trying to do their job,that the give up. " don't even bother trying sell that, no body goes for it".
That job clearly doesn’t pay well, I can assure you if it did, it would be changed if not changed definitively charged for anyway and fucked in the bin
On a random side note. Volvo's from the mid 1990's to late 2012's in turbo or non turbo models are ungodly reliable for 500,000+, but the one thing that will kill them is the crank case filter box. Once that clogs it blows the oil seals and the motor is done. Excessive crankcase pressure is no joke.
Thanks, I learned something new. I don't currently have one of these trucks, but now I know of this issue. I'll be on the lookout when I start looking for one next year.
And by it being plugged it can cause oil leaks Galore (including upper oil pan gasket) and yet in the service interval from Ford Motor Company there is no recommendation until 100k
@@mkalogero1983 they won't make money in dealerships if your truck is running perfect 😂🤣 if that filter goes bad you also get leaks from valve cover gaskets specifically from driver side one witch is pain in the assembly change it my F350 has 170k miles I'm replacing both sides by next week dealership in Arizona only changed one glow plug out of 8 in 170k miles 😂🤦
I like do update them with the f ccv part #. It’s no longer a serviceable filter but there’s a tsb out for excessive crankcase pressure and replacing the old ccv with the updated one
Question that I hope you see. I am considering deleting the crankcase filter, but I keep hearing that without the vacuum from the engine you’ll cause engine problems down the line. Any merit to this?
Smedding Diesel Internal catch can/bypass kit. I put them on before 20k and never have oil leaks. I have about 20 of them over 200k. I run another 30 or so that are around 100-150k miles. I only have one truck that we bought used with 40k 0n the clock that blew out upper and lower oil pan gaskets. Thats just my take but they work for us.
So wait a minute! I have a 2013 powerstroke and it has the non filter CC housing. So if this non filter housing is the better one of the 2, then why did they go to a filter type?
I have a 2017 with 161k and nowhere near that pressure. Not sure if it has ever been replaced. Every 50k I have every fluid and filter replaced, so maybe they did it then.
And why was this needed? Does the crank case pull in fresh air that needs to be filtered? Last time I checked the intake filter sufficed for it pulled/pushed from the intake. Mass confusion
Didn’t realize this was a thing until my dads truck started throwing a code for the turbo. Oil got into the turbo and it ended up needing to be replaced.
when they came out with the 4.0 v6 in the exploders in the early to mid 90s engines the crank filter would plug up and push oil out of all the seals. warranty total engine re seal. paid like 14 hours, engine out in 20 minutes!
Ok I have a 2013 that does the same thing replaced the crank case filter and it still builds pressure in the engine, reading 4psi of pressure, using a cap I modified to see how much pressure is being made, while reving and at idle 1psi, so then I thought maybe it’s putting boost into the engine so I removed both up pipes to the turbo to take it out of the equation, and it still makes pressure in the crank case. So now I’m at the conclusion of either broke piston rings but my dilemma is that it runs to smooth and no smoke. So right now idk what to consider
What if I don't have any excessive crank case pressure? I saw about this some time ago and was told to check the same way. It doesn't move the oil cap and I have almost 115k on it. I have a new ccv coming soon.
Some are not serviceable and must have the whole assembly replaced. More money than the serviceable one but still cheaper to maintain that than replace silicone on upper pan when it blows it out
Ford infinite wisdom. Put a carbon filter for the crank case fumes, to protect the environment, by clogging up, and pushing the engine oil past the seals, and pissing oil all over the place.
Diesels are just not worth the cost these days, I went with the 7.3 Gasser in my 550, and could not be happier. Oil change and air filters pretty much all I need to do replace
I might take it out ff once. Drill a slew of holes through it and re in stall. I bet it's expensive to replace. So I would drill it so it would not clog again, drive on with a grin
