I worked with very sticky tape for 34 years in a specialized industry...your veneer pulls off as you remove the tape because you're pulling in a nearly 90 degree angle to the wood. As you pull lay the back of the tape flat on the top of the tape being removed (180 degrees) and no more tear-out. Same on painted surfaces. Using a hairdryer helps on sensitive material.
Good information you Left Behind I'm surprised you didn't get a response back while I haven't seen this reinforced tape for a long time great idea. Bye for now Ken
This tip was difficult for me to understand at first, but what OP is saying (I think) is the tape sticks harder when you peel it holding perpendicular to the surface, like a capital L … instead, fold it all the way over so the “tail” you are pulling is parallel to the surface, like a sideways U
Great information, I've learned how to pull tape properly by working in Autobody, but even with heat are there some Plywood's that grain will undoubtedly get pulled out? I can see Maple not being a problem but Walnut Plywood has always given me some issues.
@@whales302 yes. i think plywood and solid wood doesn't matter much at the tape level since you are mostly working at surface scales. with wood species and cuts then, it becomes about "depth of grain relative to surface", with auto lesss so, since paint seems to be "plane and particulate" oriented vs wood which is specifically "strand (grain)" composed. TLDR, yeah, i think wood grain is more sensitive to peeling dynamics.
Thanks Choim, great information, thanks for posting, I have 1 tip to add, Red Vinyl Tape. It has elasticity, does not stick to finishes and comes off easily. You won't want to use it everywhere, ( cost ) but there are many instances it reallty stands out. Try a roll. One company I worked for building large condo structures only used this to tape down floor covering paper, they bought it 500 rolls at a a time , to protect the finished engineered hardwood flooring. Every trade on the site . if not using it already was grabbing part rolls. I use it on especially places I want to add pressure, because it stretches ever so slightly. Stone installers use it as well, and flooring guys with a tricky joint.
I can't thank you enough for this. As a carpenter myself, I really appreciate the fact that you're giving away all your secrets, so we learn how to do it properly and professionally.
Watched this video 2 years ago,since then I’ve made several floating shelves for clients and they are always impressed with the final result,thank you for sharing your talent 🤙
As a general contractor I greatly appreciate your attention to detail! Your level of professionalism is few and far between these days. Keep up the good work!
I watch your videos in the evening while my wife is working on dinner. I never thought she paid any attention until this morning when she started quoting your "there's all kinds of tape" segment. Thanks for adding to my, and my wife's, knowledge base.
Spencer, you're one of the best finish carpenters I've seen and I've been around for a long time. Just want you to know I really appreciate you and the effort you put into your work and the time spend making and editing your videos. Your a true perfectionist. Thank you.
A great video. I am a retired Custom Woodworker/Musician. It is still a pleasure to see great people doing great work. Glad I found you and this site. ☮️
Well Spencer !!!!, it's nice to find someone who gives the tips, shares their knowledge in a manner we can understand, I'm a perfectionist Plumber (pre-pooper piper new construction only) who has spent way to much on tools that I probably don't need for the basic wood worker I inspire to be. I build a house or to and like to do my own trim and wood crafting your video's are the best and thanks for not assuming we already know certain things, thank you.
@@number6396 when you peel the tape you don't want to pull it straight up off the workpiece.....you want to keep it close to the work and pull in the opposite direction. You'll be less likely to damage the veneer that way. The veneers are so thin on some of these plywoods and sometimes you get a weak spot.
Spencer, one of the things I admire about you is your “ desire for perfection” ! No matter what your profession or trade , if you work with that ethic you will have people standing at your door wanting to use your service ! You are a rare Bird my friend !
Hi Spencer, you have to become a teacher when you get done with all of the labor and related hassles of the trade. You are an inspiration. Another great video.
Watched this video a few days ago and I had to come back to thank you. My miters have been the Bain of my existence, I could make them passable but I personally was never happy w them. Setting the saw to 45.5 made a huge difference, so thank you!
I built two 8 foot floating shelfs this past week using your methods. I didnt have to cut any crown off the boards, I was using 3/4/11.5 inch solid Poplar and not plywood I checked the straightness with my Festool saw guide to check this. I did do the overcut on the miter and used the tape. The results were very good and the ease of construction was much easier than the previous methods I used. I appreciate your videos and sharing your knowledge. Thanks
I am now 62 years old and I still love to do joinery and all techniques and from what I just watched your the man, I found it very interesting and informative and you came across very well so10/10 very well done Keep up the good work
Before I get to far into your video I want to say thank you for your tip about pointing the magnets toward the saw blade for zeroing it out! I had been zeroing my digital guage towards the table saw top and then placing it onto the blade. Self taught, so I thought!!
Just found your website on RU-vid. MAN, where were you a while ago? I’ve been doing carpentry for some time and in order to achieve results I was satisfied with, I fought it and fought it! Almost to the point of giving up and avoiding taking any work that involved miters . . . Of any degree. Talk about frustrations. Anyway, really glad I found your site and especially glad and very grateful you shared your “secrets”. In my opinion, this says volumes about your character and professionalism. There aren’t that many out there that would take the time to put such a video together. Thank You. Now I’m going to further explore your channel and the videos you have up loaded to see if there are other areas this ol’ carpenter can learn from. . . . It’s never to late to learn new methods, especially from you younger guys. Thanks again Mr. Lewis.
I was going to suggest exactly the same thing :-) It probably doesn't take much heat - the air gun is great for removing stickers from many surfaces, and acetone is great for removing residual sticky (but explosively flammable, obviously!). I use heat for getting labels off glass jars too, and hot water from the tap or the kettle (inside the jar) is usually enough to do those.
Spencer great video - one tip that I discovered when building a wrapped mantle as to also bevel THE WALL SIDE edge instead of leaving it square. It made scribing an exactly perfect fit to the wall a breeze. The wall I had to scribe to had a huge bulge with a bit of wave to it. With the beveled back edge I used my scribe to establish the line and a my hand held block plane to remove the material - you are removing so much less material this way. I had it fit top and bottom across 8' in 10 minutes . And there is no gap at all.
Hey, Steve. Interesting tip. I'm about to build a vanity (counter + front ?apron? drop - sorry not sure what the right term is). My wall is definitely not straight. Do you bevel the wall side at 45° or a steeper angle?
@@Tooltip I think the small bevel is used to gauge how much material you are taking away on the high bulge and low bulge spots, correct me if I'm wrong though.
The true sign of a professional is one who is not afraid to reveal tips and tricks of their trade, from one chippy to another keep up the fantastic content, watching from Australia 🦘🦘🤙👍
One of the best videos for my particular application I have seen. Thanks so much. I’ve often recommended people don’t want mitered posts especially long ones because they often don’t come out perfect. Please forgive me. I do a lot of mantels and floating shelves too and this is golden. I do tape up smaller mitered projects but just never thought about using on long stuff. Key point is perfectly straight edges and the 45.5 degree cut. Thanks again. Just subbed.
Spencer for President !!! Hehehe I always appreciate the knowledge you send out to your viewers you can tell that you're the kind of guy who will always talk to ppl without judging them. Peace and Love from Texas.
Nice to see your using the Maffell track saw. Most guys use Festool because theyre great and have a good name but have to say the Maffell are on another level., pure precision woodworking tool
*I would love to work after you guys get done and I would get my jobs completed in half the time with all of your amazing sanding and prep. Well Done Man!!!*
Thank you Spencer! I just saved a bunch of money on a walnut bookcase by using walnut veneer plywood instead of solid. Plus, no cupping or twisting. The 2” thick shelves look terrific.
Hey mate! I just came here because Brad from the RU-vid channel _Fix This Build That_ gave a shout out to you and recommended you. I cannot say I am disappointed at ALL! I felt like a school boy in the best class EVER!
Hahaha I was yelling out loud "IS THAT A RYOBI PINNER???" Then I wondered if maybe you had made this video before you got the Milwaukee. Your comment of "it's adequate" is spot on. Great vid as usual.
@@infinityvideoprod Meh - I'm a homeowner, I don't do this stuff all day every day. I can buy 3x the amount of tools on the ryobi platform, and they have a LOT of different tools. To each his own. To be honest the battery operated tools of today are 100x better than those of 15-20 years ago so they all seem good to me!
I've been following your methods and preaching them from the mountain tops to others. You have helped me out so much! Just wanted to share one method I've discovered when peeling the tape off of the miter folds. I'll try to articulate as best as possible. I no longer pull the tape up and off of the wood. I, too, experienced the wood peeling off along with the tape. I now "shear" the tape off by pulling it back 180 degrees in the opposite direction. I first de bond about 2 inches on one end, I then fold the tape back 180 degrees so it's making contact with the tape that's still bonded to the miter fold, and I slowly slide it back until it's removed. I experienced basically no tearout and the clear "Box Lock" tape I use rarely tears as well. You may very well be using this method since the recording of this video. Just wanted to share this with you for all of the help you've given me. Thank you Spencer.
When using regular clear shipping tape, If you are worried about the tape not being strong enough, rub a piece of clear tap perpendicular to the mitre spanning the mitre. Do this every 12 inches or so. Then put your piece of table down the length of the mitre. It’s much stronger and you are not forced to use the really sticky tape. Plus, If you are cursed with bowed material the perpendicular tape will act like a hinge and if you bend your mitre before putting the long piece of tape on it will generally pop everything into alignment pretty well and make the 2nd time you bend it much easier. I’ve been doing this sort of work for around 5 years now. I still learned a lot from your video, you have earned yourself a subscriber!
Spencer....I just built 5 cabinet grade Maple plywood floating shelves 62" long (10" deep) using your process and I'm very pleased with the outcome. The 45.5 degree bevel cut, strapping tape and Titebond III glue tips were very helpful and gave my project a professional look. The only difference in my process is that I used a block end (vs. bevel) and covered the plywood with 3" veneer. Thanks for your help.
I’m 40 years as a building professional running a small building and remodeling company. Have watched the workmanship slide in the wrong direction over the years. No one seems to care anymore, all about the $ 29:15 You can tell that you take a lot of pride in your work. It truly shows through. You are a true artisan of your trade. Great videos too. Good luck in your future endeavors.
I am just beginning my journey into working with wood and found your video informative, clear and easy to understand. I also appreciate your pacing in the way you explain each point, super video, thx.
Great tips. I would advise pulling the tape at a much sharper angle to avoid peel stresses and using a heat gun to soften the adhesive when it seems especially stuck on. ✌️
Bam Bam here..... I think your Table saw kicks ass Spencer. Your entire shop Rocks bro. Maybe you should do a shop tour some day. Peace and Love from Texas.
I've been using tape joists for years and I have learned a bunch of tips from you. You are definitely at the top of the food chain in your industry. Mad Respect Spencer. Excellent video. Huge fan
Hi Spencer I'm in the uk and I love your approach you explain things really well, you should teach. I'm just beginning my woodworking and what helps is the little details thanks Spencer 😊. Geoff
Great tips Spencer, a way to reduce the risk of tearing veneer due to stickiness of the tape is to use a heat gun for few seconds before taking the tape off 😉
for years when faced with creating a "boxed" beam or a box mantel I always over cut the miter but I resorted to v shaped cauls and strap clamps to glue up,,, which worked,, sort of,,, so I'm happy to report back that you've have taught the old dog an awesome new trick,,, I believe that I have mantel job on the horizon and I'm keen to give it a go,,,, here's an alternative to packing tape,,, auto body masking,,, it tape has the strength and elasticity, although opaque and could be useful since it's easier on finishes,,, although I've only use it to tape veneers,,, so in a pinch or with delicate surfaces it could be a useful alternative,,, with this masking tape I've always pulled it perpendicular to the joint on 2 or 3 inch centers,,, with a line over the top the full length of the joint,,, so more work,,, I like the thought of one strip over the joint,,, where should I mail the royalty check?
My dad has always used tape on miters it’s such a great way to get great results and if you need to tack a few nails just putty over the tape… but if you ever work with azek on exterior columns that tape technique work perfectly with pvc glue I can’t remember the last time I’ve used a lock miter bit. Sure do enjoy your videos I’ve always wanted to start a channel I’m a fifth generation carpenter with so many carpenters in my family I feel the need to share what all the older guys have passed on seems selfish not to share all their hard work and experience. Anyways thanks again for taking the time to make all the great content!
People including myself are brand loyalist because the quality is there in the higher priced tools especially when it’s your lively hood you know you can depend on it. Great video as well
Spencer, great video! Regarding veneer pulloff when removing the tape, you might find that pulling the tape off at nearly 180 degrees to the surface instead of at 90 degrees reduces the chances of pulloff. I think this is because by bending the tape so much (180 degreesish), the adhesive bonds break much faster and don't pull as strong. This also works for decal removal. Thanks!
I'm building my first kitchen Center Island and it requires four maple posts on each corner. At $100 a post and a two-week waiting period causes me to manufacture my own. I wasn't sure how to go about it but coming across this video has got me very excited to attack this project! Thanks for sharing your knowledge, you are a wealth of carpentry information!
Great video, we often squirted acetone on the tape to keep it from pulling up the veneer fibers. Works good at cutting the adhesive and evaporates fast.
Nice techniques Bro!! Great job! I need to move to an area where this kind of ethic and quality are appreciated. Florida is haven of cheap and fast. Why we don't do restoration work anymore. No appreciation for quality. It's refreshing to see quality win!! Thanks for carrying the torch!
Love your channel man! SO educational. Thank you so much! I’m building beam boxes now and modeling them after your beam box video. They are coming out awesome! A hell of a lot of work, but coming out beautiful. I’ll say this, doing them with had tools on a picnic table out of standard pine is a lot more difficult than having a full shop with fine wood! 😄 A helpful thing might be to mention your time involved in each project you’re doing. Thanks again! Cheers!
