Having climbed this some 25 years ago, it is sobering to see how blown out the crack has become from so many climbers on soft rock. For those who aren’t climbers and may not understand my comment, look at the color difference between the outside wall and the lip and interior of the crack. The pale color of the lip and interior of the crack demonstrates that each passage wears away a little of the rock.
Nice! I haven't seen it close up since the mid seventies. We, Greg Davis, and myself did it shortly after Earl Wiggins and Co. We went to do it and didn't have enough hexes so went back to Moab to borrow some more pro. We climbed the then sharp edged crack to the top. Two pitches plus and rapped off. Only hexes, no crack gloves, just shitty tape jobs rolling up in the wingate. No bolts; had to build the anchors. Good memories of a really fun route. I climbed some with Earl here in the Tetons in the eighties and we both thought it was the purest crack we'd done.
I did a full moon w/headlamp ascent about 20 years ago. The start getting onto the pedestal was sketch (lamps back the were weak AF) because it was so hard to see. But once into the crack proper, with the moon behind me it was magic.
“How faffy did you find the start?” Noah: “….yes….” The classic “I’ll just place this for the move then back clean.” Way to stick with it for the send!
