The filament runout sensor works absolutely perfect, however after power loss recovery the printer destroys the build plate, gains consciousness and connects to the neural net via starlink, then plots to kill all humans. So that's a bit of a downside.
Great summary. Try a different SDcard. That could be the issue with power loss recovery just in case they are still doing a ReadWrite after every layer.
Thanks, Chuck! I'll give that a shot. It seemed weird that it was able to finish the layer it was working on when I turned it off, but as soon as it finished it, down it went. I think I'll try it on a tall, hollow cylinder, and let it get up around 10cm before power cycling it, so I have a better chance of cutting power if it decides to take another dive.
@@BV3D similar funky issues in the past were able to solve even with formatting the SD card with correctly created MBR table. Oh I just checked and you even have video for that matter =D . So yeah, probably incorrectly formatted SD card from the factory.
Interesting, my Ender 3 V2 does strange things occasionally that are seemingly related to the SD card/file naming. For instance, prints used to start at something like 500% speed and I believe I narrowed the issue down to the way files were named (omitting the CE3PRO title from Cura exported file names seemed to solve the issue). I also run into weird issues when changing z-height after a print without homing, such as the extruder retracting something like 100 mm all of a sudden.
After 3 years with a heavily modified Gen 1 Ender 3, I upgraded to the S1 last week. I am thoroughly impressed after only 4 days of use. I was never able to print ABS very well with my Ender 3, but am already producing ABS prints on the S1 that are darn near flawless.
@@rsorez329 It's semi-enclosed with a little gap at the bottom. I have it in a wall unit in my hobby room. Hard to share settings as each filament is unique. Cooling fan is off, nozzle is at 235 C, print bed at 100 C. I also used MagicGoo on the bed which I suspect is the biggest change.
@@BhutJolokias Thanks, 235 C-so not really trying to go beyond that treshold bocause of the PTFE tube? Some say it melts at about 240 C. It's a pitty that they designed the new direct drive unit with the tube, I migt be wrong, but isn't the micro swiss direct drive one, designed better on that regard?
@@rsorez329 Capricorn tubing lets you go a bit higher. It lets you try higher temps to experiment with. It's worth trying. The first thing I did was put Capricorn tube in mine.
@@rsorez329 You can also put capricorn tubing just near the hotend. Thats what i ended up doing as i dont like the restrictions of the smaller id of the capricorn. And in all fairness ive printed up to 260 with PTFE and its been fine.
*spoiler* you already know this, Bryan and I'm way out of touch w/ the new TFT screen printers & how Marlin behaves on them. If it's Marlin-based and supported, you could always issue something like: M190 S[bed temp you use] G28 G29 P4 M500 M140 S0 M84 Then after G28 in your start code add M420 S1 Z3 to load the last mesh and set it to fade out compensation after 5mm. Leave off Z3 if they didn't compile that option into the firmware.
Great video, very thorough and informative. When you tested the thermal runaway safety feature by unplugging the heater cartridge you only confirmed that there was a low temperature alarm, you did not check if the printer shut off power to the heater or if it continued attempting to heat the hot end despite the alarm, that is very important to test. You should confirm with a multimeter that the voltage to the heater is zero after the alarm and also repeat the test by unplugging the thermocouple to simulate a thermocouple failure. Thanks.
@@BV3D so helpful. Shortened the learning curve a ton. Used to live in Helotes. Now I’m downtown. Glad to see a successful RU-vid from San Antonio! I just got started this year.
The only reason to turn off the bed heater during probing is to prevent noise from the PWM signal messing with the probe reading. If the probe is reliabe and consistent when heaters are still turned on, then the feature that disables the heaters during probing ought to be disabled. That said, even with the feature enabled, the bed heater should only be off during the brief period while the probe is moving down towards the bed, and not throughout the whole process. So, that seems like a custom modification by Creality.
Two things I see: 1. There appear to be only 4 stepper drivers ... so the Z-screws are not independently controlled. Still cannot sensor-tram the X gantry left and right. 2. The extruder's pancake stepper, a heavy part, is placed far from the mounting point, bringing the center of mass of the assembly forward.
Wow, Ender has some along way. I'm almost tempted to ditch my old Ender 3 but I already have linear rails and a Hemera with a BLtouch setup. This one just looks less janky.
I own an Ender-3 that I have made tons of mods to over the last 2+ years. My son owns a v2, and I was really impressed by the stock differences, and we have barely done any mods (all things I already had lying around). I may get one of these.
Thank you for the excellent and thorough review! I bought an Ender 3 V2 based on your video when it first came out and I believe I may be upgrading to this one. This has a lot of upgrades that I would love.
12:06 The power outage recovery test. (It will never work. Just get a good UPS in place, problem solved.) First. The re-home after power outage is the BIG fail in my opinion of the power out recovery. I did not see it use the print head mounted Z sensor to confirm where the bed is. Maybe it used the Z home switch? Second and I think this is a big point as to why it will never work. Let's assume it does manage to reposition correctly. The project end point is now cold. Probably miss formed. So how is the hot end going to lay down/attach a clean hot strand of filament to a cold end well enough that on the next pass over that,, weld,, will not cause a problem? In my opinion. If you have a power outage during a print, it is best to trash it and start over when the power is back.
Just finished my upgrades on the E3V2 this evening (runout sensor was last) and now you show me the E3S1 with all those upgrades :-))))) Looks very nice and more slick indeed. Nice to see Creality pitches in with a fun moment to get that good humor note in the video with the recovery on power loss routine. Great explanation and video as always Brian. Its videos like this from Chuck, Angus and you to got me addicted to 3d Printers.
Answered every question I had running through my head Bryan and I think the S1 will become a member of our little Ender family. Great video once again thanks.
Awesome video Bryan :) Thanks to you and your previous video I successfully build my Ender 3 V2 a year ago. It still works perfect! With your clear instructions and good video angles you got me into 3d printing. Thank you! :)
I made the mistake of watching some of your videos with my wife. Now I have a honey-do list of 3D printed vases and dragons :) I told her I can't print the super tall items without a new 3D printer...we'll see how that goes :) On the bright side, I received 6 rolls of filament from my wife and mother-in-law for Christmas. But seriously, where can I find or buy the STL for the vase? I just purchased the Reciprocal Vase you highlighted in your Longer LK5 video.
Trying to get honest reviews of 3d printers before I buy my first one... this video was immensely helpful, as were some of the comments, especially regarding power loss/recovery. (The comment about using a UPS is brilliant). Your straight-forward explanations and examples along the way were, to one unexperienced with the trials and tribulations of configuring these devices, absolutely perfect and understandable. Super happy that this video all-but-solidifies my choice, but most importantly helped to temper some expectations I had, being a tech geek for the last 35 years but not getting into 3d printing until now. I loved some of the models and filament choices in this video and can see how much I'm going to love getting into this and introducing my pre-teen STEM loving kid to this along with me (and likely a honey-do list of cool things my wife decides she wants as well). Im rambling but again, thank you so So much for this review video, and for what will likely be a lot of hours going through many other videos on your channel.
Can't you just use the Ender 3 V2 jyers firmware (jyers did a UI mod there to match the default firmware right?) and combine that with the crtouch, filament sensor and extruder config from the S1? Should be no more than an evening of copying over config values.
After having a CR6SE with the solid mounted bed, I really wish Creality would stay with the solid bed with future printers. I get the knobs are for fine tuning the leveling, but the CR6 does an amazing job at leveling with the solid bed, and both the S1 and the CR6 come with stock ABL. In my opinion, this thing is just a direct drive version of the CR6 with a USB-C port, the old style bed leveling and non-touch screen, for the same price.
I had a slight panic then! Only 3 days I watched your 3 V2 unboxing video which made my mind and I ordered 1 2 days ago! Then this pops up on my feed and I hoped I hadn't ordered the wrong one. I was glad to see it mostly just upgrades that could if needed be done to the v2! 👍
Great review... I just purchased a 3 S1 for the same price of a V2 and am soaking up all of the knowledge about that RU-vid has to offer. Thanks for the great content BV3D
Brian another great video as always, I've been waiting for a review on this printer, and I'm really impressed by it. Like you said the over all look of it is pretty cool. I already have the v2 but was wanting to know if it worth doing the upgrades myself or just buying the S1. I may try to sell my V2 and then buy it. Again thanks for the video.
i feel bad for laughing at the power recovery thing. its like it was throwing a tantrum. as for the rest of the issues. The fan noise i think is an issue with all creality printers, there's a reason its listed as an upgrade in a lot of peoples build. Even yours. the temperature is a weird one, particularly the turning off of the bed during leveling. If i didnt already have a v2, and wasnt looking at upgrading to a ratrig soon. Id probably pick one up.
To keep the bed hot during leveling should be a simple tweak to the initial G code in Cura? I made the change for my Ender 3 V2 and it stays hot while leveling.
The quality of fans Creality uses have declined over the years, I have an Ender 2 that has nearly 4 years on the clock and although the fans are noisy they have not failed unlike the super noisy board fan on one of my 2 Ender 5 Plus machines whose bearings decided to eat themselves and the heat fried the USB chip, because of this I have changed the board fans on all my Chinese printers for quality quiet ones
Been looking for a upgrade/companion for my E3Pro, it's been awesome but there are a few things that I'd like to have, like auto-leveling & a silent mainboard that I'm scared to install on the e3pro. Don't fix what isn't broken I suppose, but another printer to add to the arsenal would definitely be welcome, so this looks like a likely candidate. Thanks for the great review!
Hi, thanks a lot for the nice review and also the previous videos you have made. I was actually about to order the Ender-3 v2 but your video changed my mind and I will order the new S1 instead. I’m totally new in 3D printing and cannot wait to get my first printer. Greetings from Finland and looking forward to see new videos from you.
Very good review! I pre-ordered an Ender 3 S1 last week and I can't wait for it to ship in the second half of January. It has everything my previous Anycubic Chiron lacks, except the larger build volume.
Great review as always. Never have been as interested in the ender series machines until seeing this machine. Looks like a great upgrade overall to the ender 3 v2 most in the community love!
Hey man, Great video! I really appreciate the time you have taken to do this in depth review/testing of the printer. I just bought a V2 and was planning to do all the upgrades, but now I am very tempted to just buy the S1. Thanks again & happy holidays ✌
You see infill on all prints, that's due to Cura. Slice something with Superslicer and it won't show. You can adjust cura to add more distance for the infill from walls. Thanks for the review. For the $$$ I'm better off with V2 with printed direct drive and printed fan shroud, it has more or less the same quality. I don't ever use a touch sensor, Springs and manual mesh are perfectly fine.
I have 4-5 divots like that in my old E3 flex mat thanks to Marlin's linear advance gcode website last year. I didn't have an advanced end gcode to raise the nozzle several mm before turning the motors off.
Based on this video and a couple more like it, I made a decision to took the plunge and bought one today and am on my third print object. I printed the rabbit and handle thingy first and was very pleased with the rabbit, but the bed handle thing was a little rough after I removed the support overburden. I'm currently printing a small box that fills the width and discovered that this printer is very easy to change the z-offset and increase the nozzle temp on the fly, which is a major benefit for a novice like me. I changed filament types after creating the GCODE file and discovered that the silk filament needed 210 degrees as a minimum, which I was able to change using the "Tune" option on the control panel.
Great job! Answered all my questions about the S1. I have eyeballing the Cr-10 Smart Pro and hoping to see a review soon. I can't get an answer out of Creality about what mainboard is in it. I'd like to think it will be the same components as the S1 slammed in a CR-10 chassis but that seems too simple. I have a highly modified CR-10S and have been struggling with the settings. Never considered trying Creality's slicer and I'll be damned if installing it and trying the CR-10 Smart Pro profile didn't cure 90% of my issues. I'll have to do some digging to see what all the differences are. Now that the CR-10 looks like it will get sorted out, I'll save 300 and just add the Ender S1 to my fleet. Thanks!
All those people wishing they didn't buy the V2 and install upgrades.... Am I the only one that likes doing upgrades. Part of my 3d printing hobby is making the printer better. Buying everything prebuild takes away a lot of the fun. Oh and a great review 🙂
Yes, the sleek new look is nice, but it looks like it will be harder to upgrade - the aluminium extrusion of the earlier enders makes reconfiguring stuff a lot easier. Still, the S1 looks more developed, it looks more "friendly" to a more consumer audience.
You could 100% do that. You can create an Ender-3 S1 configuration by adding an Ender-3 V2, changing the build height and retraction settings to match what Creality defined for the printer in their slicer. I say "their slicer," but you know what I mean. 😉
My chin has just hit the table! Creality's programmers have learned how to set the XY offset correctly for the bed probing so you get an equal and correct mesh, now all they need to do is fix all their other ABL firmware for their enormous range of machines, and while they are at it they could fix the power loss recovery on this machine, I was dissapointed with the Allen Keys, without ball ends its a real pain to tighten machine screws and the price difference to Creality must be microscopic, so why?
I would like to add to my experience with the Ender 3 S1. Got it on Jan 9th and it no longer will except filament after a jam on Jan 26th. I followed Creality's RU-vid channel for clearing a clog and it did work, but it was a temporary fix, as it seems it will no longer even allow filament to be loaded into the extruder. Its a shame too as I really was loving that printer. But I am probably going to send it back to Amazon as it didnt even last 1 month. Maybe I can exchange it with another one, but it could be a design flaw in their extruder, which means it could happen again. I only have till the 8th to send it back, so about a week left and the printer is dead...... Maybe you could make a video showing how to completely take the new Sprite extruder apart, maybe you'll find an issue or something. Might also help other with that too.
Hi! Definitely take advantage of Amazon's return policy. I ran some PETG at 240˚C through it yesterday, for a couple of hours on some small parts, and it did OK. But that's about as hot as I'm willing to run that extruder, since it's PTFE lined. I should probably order the all-metal version of the Sprite, which will be able to hit higher temperatures because it doesn't have that PTFE inside it. Looks like it might be available sometime in the next month.
@@BV3D I was only using PLA at no more than 210 for the 1st layer than 200-205 for the rest of the print. Also after the failed print/clog I followed the instructions and since I had some capricorn PTFE I cut to the right size and replaced the stock PTFE in the hot end, but still has issues, I am sure its the extruder part that is messed up somehow...
@@BV3D Update on the problem. I took the entire extruder/hot end apart and found that the clog went all the way up to the gears of the extruder, so it was blocking letting the filament in at all. I am running a test print after the complete tear down and it seems to be working perfectly.... The tear down is a pretty good chore.
@@TheLotw I understand the frustration. First a bit of background. As a gift my brother gave me an Ender 3 Pro early November. I didn't jump into it. I watched the build videos.... (It's going to be the ender of me). 3 weeks later I had my first experience using a 3D printer. Related to you. CLOG! It seems Crealty carries a flow problem from the 3 Pro to 3 S1. Luckily I have not needed to take apart the block to clean it. Ram rod it and replace the nozzle works for me. It's what I needed to do to print 3 Harry Lions. Plus the side spool mount arm, which was needed to make the lions happen.
Not surprised, some of the features like Return on Power Loss never worked for my Ender 3v2 with their firmware, switched to Jyers and the issue's gone. Creality ain't the best with firmware.
Hey Brian, Hope you see this. Great video as always 💪🏼 With the failure you had, where the nozzle made a decent imprint on the build surface, I still feel it’s a firmware related issue with the BLTouch (CRTouch from my understanding is a rebranded BLTouch) rather then a SD card issue as CHEP suggested (I have tried multiple SD cards, the same even happens if I print over USB, lol). I’ve been having this issue at random intervals on my Ender 3 v2 since installing the BLTouch with the default Creality BLTouch (Marlin) firmware and also the latest Jyers Marlin firmware. This has happened when I home all axes, started a print, after a power failure and even mid print, but never consistently so that I can identify what’s causing it to try and reproduce the issue and send my results off to Creality Support. Luckily I’ve always been around or close to my printer when this has happened and could switch the power off in time before there were any irreversible damages, however I haven’t been so lucky when I recently (as in last week Friday) fitted the wham bam flexible PEX build system 😔 Installed it and was so stoked to start my first print on the brand new build surface. I relevelled the bed, performed ABL (I have the UBL Jyers firmware installed), even double and triple checked my Z Offset to avoid a collision issue and was ready to get printing a small 10mm x 10mm x 10mm cube. Started the print, waited for the bed and hotend to heat up again and got distracted, next thing I glance over and my nozzle is pushing the bed so far down the Z motor started skipping steps 😢 I was left with a huge nozzle imprint and a few deep drag/scratch marks on the PEX surface. After a power cycle the printer went back to normal and Ive been printing without any issues, barring the messed up PEX sheet (which I’m struggling to find a replacement sheet in South Africa at the moment as we only have one supplier stocking them. As any South African will tell you, impoting is not an option as parcels mysteriously disappear lol) My biggest concern is seeing you having a similar issue on the S1 as I’ve had with the hotend destroying a build surface it makes me wonder how many other Creality users have had the same issues since fitting a BLTouch to their Enders. If you do manage to find a resolution or permanent solution, I would be very keen to see what you’ve come up with. Keep up the great work
"CRTouch from my understanding is a rebranded BLTouch" The CR Touch is, to my understanding, not simply a repackaged BL Touch. The simplest difference to see, besides the external shape, is the use of a metal pin over the plastic one in the BL Touch. The CR Touch does share the same input / output interface but that is a very smart decision in my mind because it allows any plugins or code that was written with the BL Touch in mind to work, without any code changes, for the CR Touch.
REGRETS, I just bought the v2 without knowing this one was coming out, this one basically has all the upgrades I just did manually and isn't that much more expensive. While I could still return the v2, I have invested way too much time and money on it to the point that it's probably not worth it... I don't see myself owning a second 3d printer either, so probably will have to wait till either I get a much better upgrade or the current one dies on me.
Same. Got my v2 this evening, and just stumbled across this channel and this video specifically. This is my first ever printer - it's on the fourth layer of the included dog model right now! I'm not totally bummed out, though: my v2 is $160 less than what I can find the S1 for at the moment.
Hi Bryan! I love your videos! I wish this printer came out a year ago before I bought my Ender 3v2 and had to go through so much struggle getting all the upgrades installed. :)
Wait 14:38 Wait... Should the Ender 3 V2 be powered by the usb port? I set up octoprint on a Jetson Nano, and it bugged me enough that the Ender's screen wouldn't turn off (read: Screen on, Jetson on, Ender UNPLUGGED) that I compiled a utility to disable usb power ...it could not drive the motors, and threw errors when I tried to heat the bed, but the screen/ dial still operated
Hi, a lot of printers have the +5v line on their USB ports connected, though they probably shouldn't. It causes the exact issue you describe. There are passthrough devices you can use to prevent this from occurring, such as Brian Lough's USB Power B-Lough-R (his last name is pronounced "Block"). These can be had for about $7 USD from TH3D Studio or other resellers. Interestingly, I exploit that issue as a way to test thermal protection, because the USB port is enough to keep the printer's mainboard and screen running, but nowhere near powerful enough to run the nozzle or bed heater. So on printers with mainboards that can be powered that way, I can turn the printer's power supply on and also connect a USB power source. Then I can set the nozzle to 200˚C, and once it's at temperature, I can turn off the printer's power supply. The USB power will keep the screen and mainboard running, but the nozzle temperature will start dropping, and if the printer has the thermal safety features enabled, it'll throw an error.
Unless I'm missing something, why would you want to set either the bed or the nozzle to 5 Celsius? and again, if your room temp is not 5 C, that won't happen...
in my opinion - Maybe you made a brownout instead of blackout, so the MCU did not boot/reset properly and messed up that recovery. But actually, theres similar bug in Marlin FW(I'm currently running 2.0.7.2, older versions made that too). and if i run some specific gcode for loading filament in my machine, the next gcode(both via USB from octoprint, first gcode either as file or a macro from octo plugin) homes properly and then goes to back left corner and starts rundomly dumping filament and some other weird, potentionally destructive stuff - no other issues. STM32F4.... i think it could be similar problem and i bet its related to UART comms between display and motherboard, or between SD card and motherboard. Or maybe it could be some problem with max extrusion length limit in FW.
It's a Parts Bin item. Creality is using the same hotend in all their current machines, and it's good enough for them for PLA printing (at least that's my take on their thinking for most of their current portfolio)
So it's ... auto-bed leveling...but you still have to do ALL the manual leveling effort... lol I do love my Ender v2, but I think they are going in the wrong directly with any of their crappy bed leveling efforts. As always, however, YOU do an amazing review of printers. You always have. I appreciate the time these videos take to really make good quality content. Thank you.
It's the same with most bed leveling sensors. Unless they use the nozzle itself to measure the distance to the surface like the new prusa xl. You only need to do it once since you only set the difference between the probe to surface distance compared to the nozzle to surface distance. I bought the same sensor for my ender 5 Pro, I haven't needed to adjust anything in several months.
@@atnfn Right - which isn't full 'auto' bed leveling. I'm thinking more like the mechanics on a rat rig that does 16 plot points then adjusts all 3 bed arms automatically - that's auto-bed leveling to me.
Bryan, this was a very good review!! I bought and upgraded my 3 V2 because of your reviews and information. Maybe Jyers will come up with a update to fix some of the problems. Now the problem is, should I buy one (my 3 V2 is about 6 months old). LOL!!
I expect that to depend on what changes need to be made to vanilla Marlin to make it work. It's a new board, so the board definition (or a pins file?) will be needed. But with that, you can edit the source code to set the X, Y, and Z max values, probably. Hopefully Creality will release the Marlin source. They SHOULD, it's probably just a matter of when.
@@BV3D Awesome, thanks for the insight. This new printer basically has all the upgrades I already want, and if I could go large format for cosplay stuff, it would be perfect.
@@Chilimustard If it wasn't a new board, it would probably be easier to build a config in Marlin (or JyersUI). But I haven't seen this particular board before.
Hey there... As usual, another great video. I was about to buy this, but then I realised it does NOT have an all metal hot end and uses a small PTFE tube in the throat which again I believe, touches the nozzle. Could you please verify this in the interest of the community and confirm if it can be replaced with a capricorn tube for better stability and performance.
I would love to see some upgrades and such for this printer, as I now own one too. Great printer so far. The have a light bar kit and the all metal hot end, and even a laser kit for it.
they have fixed it fully i tried it i have 3 ender3 s1 and a pro all power lost worked fine and i have convert one of my ender 3 s1 to a pro version runs like a dream the new s1 i have a small issue a end stop switch on the bed is rattling creality sending me a new one
Is it worth upgrading from a mostly stock v2 for this? Was planning on selling the v2 and getting an s1 since it has a lot of mods I was going to do anyway
Hey Bryan, great review. I've been watching reviews for weeks and narrowed down my first printer between the Artillery Sidewinder x2 that you recently reviewed and this Ender-3 S1. I'm leaning towards the Ender despite the larger build volume of the Sidewinder because of the community around the Ender series... Is it safe to assume that when I want to move to a larger build volume, that there will be after market parts to do so? Any takes on the differences between the extruder and hot end of the Sidewinder x2 vs the "Sprite" extruder on the Ender 3 S1? Thanks!
Actually the Artlillery Genius Pro would be a better comparison to the S1 because of the similar build volume. I found myself looking at these myself but then opted for the X2, you can always print small on a big printer, but never big on a small printer. We'll see how that works out. Ultimately I went with the Artillery for the AC bed heater and quiter operation.
I wish you showed tolerance tests and didn't use silk shining filament. That filament ruins the entire prints sections. Anything even an anet a8 looks great with those!
I'll run some more prints with the Jessie Pure Cyan PLA (that's what I printed the rabbit with). I'll post them in the Community tab in a day or two. Do you have a suggestion for a model or two you'd like to see printed?
@@BV3D oooh that's awesome thanks! I hope my comment didn't come off as rude. Maker's muse has an awesome tolerances test they recently released! For the tests I use grey filament my self Generic simple plan from esun etc. Nothing special! No Shimmer or additive Also measuring some cubes would be lovely and simple xD and some holes Seeing how smaller they turn out You can use a drill bit's handle or a dowel pin to test them
