Thanks for watching today! Please consider liking the video and subscribing for future content if you found the video informative and helpful. Thank you! 🤘 Timestamps: 1:30 - Agenda for the video 2:10 - What exactly is an oil gallery and an oil gallery gasket? 3:00 - Where are the oil galleries located? 3:30 - Is an oil gallery gasket failure a serious problem? 5:40 - What Nissan & Infiniti models are impacted by this problem? 6:20 - Diagnosing, repairing, and preventing an oil gallery gasket failure 7:30 - Symptoms of an oil gallery gasket failure 8:12 - Typical repair expense for this problem (It's a wide range depending if you can fix it yourself. A solid estimate to have your vehicle serviced by someone is approximately $1,250 to JUST FIX THE GALLERY GASKET) Hope that helped! Let me know if there are any questions or comments about the materials. Thanks, Justin 🤘
I had the oil galley gasket break on my 2008 G35X and spun a rod bearing from losing oil pressure. I was able to fix the bearing then it spun again and I realized it was my oil galley gasket that caused it. I was able to replace the gaskets without having to remove the front lip and radiator etc. There was enough space to work on it. Now Im fixing the rod bearing again.
Just FYI, this issue is also prevalent in the VQ40DE in the Nissan SUVs. But, you can't buy the gaskets from Nissan. You have to buy the entire rear cover. There are aftermarket options for gaskets, however. The VQ40 gaskets are not the same as the smaller engines.
I can't believe they used phillips screws to hold those plates on. I also don't believe Nissan has been held as accountable as they should be for this. A repair of this magnitude is enough to cause someone to lose their job or even their home.
Thanks for your comment and support Terry. Yeah. Sadly, there are a few key problems with the Z platform that are not easily corrected. I call out some of them in my "Top 10 370Z Issues" video. The gallery gasket problem didnt make that video, but it is a very real issue for the aging Z platform in general. Hope you enjoyed the video. Take care, Justin
@@justinchapman6383it’s not too bad. I just did mine myself along with water pump. Mine weren’t leaking but while I was in there changing a leaking water pump made no sense not to do it while in there. I drive a 2013 g37. Thankfully I have the revised gasket set that came in the newer g’s and z’s
Well I'm very thankful I havea 2013! I'm only searching on this because a mechanic at the infiniti I go to said my gallery gasket needs to be replaced soon since my engine appears to be leaking (it's just dirty though) but I like to maintain my car and fixed it up since I bought it and such. The new york owner neglected this car and I've saved it. Been treating me well! I went in originally because I had the infamous low idle issue that I fixed at a later visit with someone who was as serious as I was and with everything I dug up and him seeing it we got it fixed for real this time! Still, I can't believe this is a major issue for G37's 2012 and under I'm very lucky and love my car!
Excellent video! I love the way you explain the problem, what it takes to repair it, and what else you may as well address while you're working on the engine. Very well done sir!
Great video you described everything so well! I own a Infiniti G37 sport and was experiencing oil pressure issues and running a little rough with engine light on - my repair shop called and told me problem likely something around timing chain area they have to inspect....with it being 115k mileage i think i have no doubt it is this. They offered me quote of $2400 and that was including replacing the water pump and chain too. Yikes.
Yeah. This unfortunately can be an expensive repair BUT its usually a one and done thing. Agreed on the water pump. Just knock it out! The pricing isn't too bad considering the amount of work required. I would shop around if you have the chance to. Independently, I can see both those repairs being that much, but hopefully they are giving you a decent break on labor because you already have the engine apart and are in the adjacent area working on it. Personally, in Texas at least (regional costs will vary), I would expect it to run anywhere from $1.7K to $2K for what you are describing (drive away pricing for a normal independent shop). An oem water pump is very inexpensive so its mostly labor you are paying for (taking the engine apart to get to the pump which is in the same area). Oh! Ask them to swap out the thermostat as well! Its a stupid cheap part and everything is apart anyways. Might as well. Hope this helps. Feel free to ask about any questions that come up. Dont be afraid to shop around on prices. -Justin🤘
There is! The new gaskets are made of new composite materials. If this happens/happened to you, check out Concept Z Performance. While you have the gallery gaskets swapped out, swap the gallery gasket cover bolts while you are at it. Its a dirt cheap upgrade, and the head on the bolts makes it way easier to torque down to spec. Ditch the stock ones that have a flathead face.
Just make sure to pay close attention to the interior, especially the dash, Infiniti interior in hot climates is garbage, also check the sunroof for leaks, pour a little water in the pan and look for the water soaking the roof lining.
Definitely is a lot of work. Did mine myself. A lot of nuts and bolts. The phillip screws that hold the gallery gasket plates also tend to back out as well. Usually kits like EPS come with better gaskets and better hardware (hex bolts).
Thanks for your comment and support. Congrats on knocking it out. Definitely an achievement for most people. Agreed on the EPS kits. I was recently seeing the same as the video was being assembled.
I have a 370z 2010 rebuilt tittle with uprev tune (100%stock) and never had any gally gasket issues or any issue at all, the car is a beast. But im worryed with this info
No sense worrying about it. Just be aware. Many vehicles has weird issues that many don't really know about until the platforms age more with mileage. My opinion is just enjoy it, but be prepared just in case.
I've had 4 cars with this issue very common on the 02 to I blv around 07 vqs. Its not just the rwd vqs. Had 2 2002 maxima a 2005 350z and a 2004 (2.5) qr25 altima so can confirm those motors have the same issue
My 2011 has 211k on the motor. It felt down on power, like perhaps the throttle body were sticking but they were completely clean not that long ago. On cold start-up I heard what I thought might be a chain noise. I only heard it that one time I hope it's not having this issue. I hope next time I drive it's fine. I doubt it will be I'm having a hell of a year. If it happens I might look into getting a 2014 or better engine. It might be around the same price.
Very good video, informative and detailed. Specially putting the info on the screen, that helps a lot. Most videos don’t say what cars it effects specially, good break down. Thank You. Subscribed
I have an idea for another video, the plastic couplers for the coolant hoses, how they disintegrate, the problems that could be caused from not addressing them and what to replace them with.
Thank you for this video, just picked up a 2012 g37x with 62k miles yesterday and have been looking for any preventative maintenance to do, this sounds like the number 1 thing I should take care of before getting carried away with mods. You seem very knowledgeable, are there any other major issues with these motors I should keep an eye on?
Hey Dante! Thanks for your comment. That really helps the channel out. Be sure to check of my "Top 10 370 Issues" video on this channel. Really worth the watch for someone like yourself getting familiar with the platform. As far as replacing the gallery gaskets right away? Thats more of a personal choice since it can be an expensive maintenance item and your vehicle may not be experiencing any issues with it yet or ever. If the motor is out or you are doing a water pump, etc... I say just get in there and swap them out. Otherwise, just drive the vehicle like you want to (unless you are getting signs of some type of maintenance issue). Its a 2012 with lower mileage, so very could be some time before any types of issues arise. Just be aware its out there so you are prepared if the car starts acting up. Remember to change your oil regularly and watch the oil level as well intermittently. Just my opinion. Hope this helps. -Justin
@@NVSTRZ34 appreciate the guidance a TON my man❤️ haven’t had any symptoms of the gasket failing yet but it’s always gonna be on my mind now lol. Definitely will change it out if I ever need to get in there for the water pump or anything else that calls for me to remove the bumper and radiator like you mentioned. I’ve always been on top of my oil changes with my previous vehicles but i’ll definitely make sure to keep a keen eye on the oil level of this one since I know there could be major consequences lol. Thanks again dude for real, keep up the good content
@@dantespez Thanks man. I'm setting a personalgoal of 2-3 videos a week. Will still be keeping the Z content coming. Also, thank you for the support Dante. Commenting on a video and liking it goes a LONG WAY for the channel growth. Ask away here if anything is on your mind. Take care! 🤘
@@NVSTRZ34 what can someone do to check for symptoms when inspecting the car before purchase or when driving the car? how can someone know when to replace it?
I haven't had to do mine yet, but if installed correctly I imagine it would be replaced once in the engines lifetime. As far as different kits... last time I looked there was an EPS kit and a Z1 kit. Personally, I find Z1 labeled parts to be pretty good (who knows... might even be the same thing rebadged). Just checked the reviews on Z1 site. More tempted to go that direction myself.
Had this repair done on my car and just got it back today. Never got any codes, or limp mode, but I do drive the car hard. There’s no other leaks what so ever and the engine still feels very strong. Wondering if I should be concerned about potential long term damage. Thoughts?
Thanks for your comment and support. My opinion is that if you are maintaining the required oil pressure, and gasket debris has been cleared, and the oil has been changed, I personally wouldnt be as worried. If they used the new composite style gasket, hopefully, there shouldnt be any issues.
for any 2012 VQ37 depending on the build date is the updated part already on those motors or not? Because my G was build in April of 2012 and for some 2012 G's that have this issue their build date is in the range of August 2011 to December 2011
Thank you for all your info bro 🙏 Unfortunately my z star making some knocking sound I look online it can be rod bearing but doesn't sound like it only does when I'm between 2k and 3k rpms I been looking online and I saw a video talking about oil gallery gasket and make the same knocking sound as my z so now I'm confused is there any way you can help me figure this out
Very hard for me to diagnose online. However, if there concerning noises coming from your engine, its probably just a matter of time before a major repair is needed to go any further. I would assume that time is very very near for you if you are this concerned. Many times a used engine swap is cheaper than other options. If you go that route, just have the used engine galley gaskets swapped out. Super cheap insurance down the road. Unfortunately, there are not many cheap options all in though. Also, keep a watch on your oil levels and maybe consider a decent baffled oil pan if you are driving your car on a track day from time to time. These are all cheap ideas, but will not change that you might very well need a used engine to swap in now.
Are all 2013’s immune to the oil gallery gasket issue? Is that confirmed because I see conflicting statements online and can’t seem to find an official answer from Nissan or Infiniti anywhere. Are we sure the 2013’s have this issue fixed?
@npprom I've now seen conflicting statements too. I would say 2013's are probably not immune. If 2013 owners are saying they are having issues, I would assume it happens to them too. Maybe some of the failures just come with time and would make sense that we see more years as the 370Z platform ages.
Prevention??? Nope no prevention hahaha. I just had a gallery gasket scare on my 08 G35 hr. Driving home one night and noticed a misfire accompanied by a flashing check engine light. Pulled over, hooked up the scan tool and pulled codes for low oil pressure, advanced timing, and random misfire. After replacing the oil and checking the oil pressure I discovered the issue which was a bad bank 2 vvt solenoid. Since these cars are very picky when it comes to non-OEM parts I recommend going OEM. There's no cheap route but rock Auto will sell you the same part for about 200 dollars less. I also recommend checking the solenoids before replacing them because they may not be your issue.
VQ35DE Rear Timing Oil Gallery Gasket kits are also good on 02-07 nissan quest 3.5 motors. same item. Nissan tries to sell the whole timing chain rear cover kit instead.
If I have white smoke an idling water in my tail pipes won’t crank in a 2008 Infiniti g37s coupe do I need a new engine or get the cracked head gasket fixed wat would u do?
Sounds like popped head gasket. Would do compression check first to confirm. If its gone, just shop around for used engine install and also headgasket replacement. Sometimes its just cheaper to swap in a used engine and they are plentiful. It really all depends. No matter if you replace the headgasket or get another used engine, you might as well change the gallery gaskets too.
I just purchased a 2008 G37S 6MT I was not aware of this issue before purchasing. I am currently sitting at 110,000 miles. The car has been well maintained. Should I consider having this repaired as a preventive measure or should I wait for symptoms such as check engine light or oil light? I have neither at the moment but am afraid of catastrophic failure. On the other hand should I just hope for the best and consider the money I save not doing this preventive repair as money towards a replacement engine if everything were to go wrong? I have worked on cars before but this seems like it would be extremely difficult for me. I would more than likely have this done by a shop with experience in doing this repair. Also I agree with doing everything once into the car this deep so I am thinking if I were to spend possibly $4000 to fix something that isn't necessarily broken would it make more sense to take the chance because for a few thousand more I could replace the entire motor.
Personally, unless mine was giving me issues, I'm not looking for reasons to tear everything apart and spend some serious $. Just know it is an issue so you know what you are in for if it does come up. Private mechanic familiar with the platform is probably the way to go if it does happen to you. Everyone else, probably charges an arm and a leg.
If you have a Z, cleaning your MAFS and throttle bodies is usually a good idea. I have a great detailed video showing how to do it. It's cheap, easy, and will usually save you a headache or ţwo. Check out my video on this channel for more details.
Hello how are you? I would like to ask a question please pertaining to the stock fans on the 370z. Since you have to access(remove) can you tell me the diameter of the fans please? Thank you
Hey! So I know my 350z HR needs gallery gaskets but I was wondering if it’s possible if my intake cam sprockets need replacing too I have a p0011, p0021 and p0300 car runs very rough for the first mile and then it seems to clear up also has a very hard time starting sometimes. Are these symptoms related to gallery gaskets also or should I also need to replace my intake sprockets?
Do you recommend pulling off the timing chain housing, where it meets the cylinder heads? And resealing with rtv? It requires removal of the cam sprockets, etc. How much more time will that take?
I wish I could be more helpful but I dont have any insights into that. Haven't encountered the issue myself. If it were me, I'm always elbows deep into the service manual step by step on big jobs and I haven't had to do this one yet myself since I have a newer Z with the upgraded gaskets. You might have better luck with that question on large Facebook groups such as "370Z". There are plenty of others that have had to tackle this as well. Thats my best advice I can offer currently.
@@NVSTRZ34 i live in Australia, which year models exactly have these problems here because i heard the year models in Australia is different to USA? also i seen that even the newer ones 2013+ still have this issue?
Thanks for your comment Darin! I never had to do it personally. I have a 2014 370Z with the updated seals. However, I have come across a solution for your problem. Please see link below: www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/70559-nst-pulley-installed-reviewed-crank-bolt-removal-tip-inside.html Hope that helps. Take care and let me know if there are any other questions! 🤘 -Justin
I wedged a breaker bar on the frame with a 19 on crank bolt and started the car not letting it start. I also pulled all the coil pack plugs so there was not able to spark
Not sure if this is a symptom of the galley gasket issue but from time to time when I start my car it automatically dies. Sometimes I gotta start the car twice for it to stay running. Do you know what the issue is? I have about 100,800 miles on the car and it’s a 2011.
I have a detailed video on my channel about cleaning MAFS and throttle bodies on the 370Z. When I had similar issues, it ended up mostly being dirty throttle bodies (but you might as well clean your mafs while you are at it). Thats probably where I would start myself. The good news is the supplies are cheap to do this (make sure you get the correct cleaning sprays). Once you are done, you will just have to make sure you do a few ecu relearn procedures after your clean everything. Pretty easy but can be detailed. I covered it all in the video. Additionally, wouldn't hurt for you to take your car to an autozone or oreilys to get them to check your battery and alternator. Its free for them to hook your car up to the diagnostic computer. Hope that helps. -Justin 🤘
I have a reoccurring p0011,p0021 along with p0345 the car wont even start and that's when brand new oem hitachi cam and crank sensors. I replaced the vvt solenoids twice! Maybe I have a bad gallery gasket cause my oil literally is gone after a day
That is a real head scratcher. P0011 & P0021 are tell-tale signs of a gallery gasket issue from what I have seen. However, the P0345 is cam shaft sensor related I believe. The way I would personally try to track down the issue is replacing the identified cam shaft sensor based upon the P00345 engine code bank, and go from there. Sounds like you have already done that, so just double check the connections and sensor(s) themselves. Sometimes, even new ones are bad. Not sure if it also trips the P0011 & P0021 codes as well. Sorry I can't be more help on this. The oil CONSUMPTION problem is a real concern. I havent heard of bad oil consumption issues with bad gallery gaskets.
Everyone of these repair videos I have watched have never said anything about the required minimum oil pressure. My gauge looks to be at about 15 psi hot. Have not seen any codes or experienced any idle or running problems. So is 15 psi enough to keep my engine safe from damage because of oil starvation ? And is 15 psi at idle a sign of blown gallery gaskets ? Old thread here , hoping for a reply. Thanks
i'm nowhere near an expert but my 350 has just shy of 91k miles and sits at about 80spi cold start, 15 psi idle fully heated up (maybe 14 but i might be reading at a bit of an angle) and goes up to about 90 depending on RPM and i don't believe i have a gasket issue so if you're getting number like that you should be alright i hope
I'm hoping you know. But I bought a timing chain kit with gaskets because of this exact problem. I have a 04 g35x and the upper chain guide on the new guide is only 2 bolt holes, my old one has 3. All parts places says it's the correct kit for my vehicle. I'm not sure if I should not worry about the bolt
Thanks for your comment Ben. I wish I could be more assistance, but I have not heard of this being a thing and even after searching I didnt come up with any details on your situation. Might be worth asking about in some of the 370Z Facebook groups. Someone might have more insights on this than myself. Take care and good luck on this. If you get resolution on the topic, would be interested to know what you find out. Thanks, Justin
The only thing I could come up with is the engine was replaced with a nissan Altima engine. It has the same engine stamped code. But when you look up the chain kit for cloyes 04 Altima has 3 bolt holes on upper guide and 04 g35 has 2 bolt holes on upper chain guide
Great video. My Z has low oil pressure but no engine codes whe look at presure manual and on idle was around 0.5 :( could be same problem manny thanks!
Thank you for your support and comment Andrei. Glad the video helped you. It's why I keep cranking them out. What year is your Z and how many miles do you have currently?
I have a 2010 370Z with 121k miles, was thinking of getting my gallery gaskets replaced, haven’t had an issue yet (not that I know of) but wanted to do it for preventing it from happening in the future since I have higher miles, my mechanic suggested getting the water pump done as well while we’re there. Do you recommend getting the Gallery gaskets done before they fail?
Liked and subscribed!! Really appreciated your detailed overview of this pesky problem. My car is currently in the shop because its in limp mode and oil is leaking slowly from the front crankshaft. Praying its not a "Gally gasket" and hoping its just the crankshaft seal which would be a difference of about $1000 in repairs. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated 👍
Thanks for liking the video and subscribing. Your support is greatly appreciated! 🤘 My advice would be wait to see what the mechanic says the leak is. IF the front timing cover has to come off for whatever reason, you might as well do the gallery gaskets as well when you are in there. Breaking into that area isn't cheap, so you might as well kill two birds with one stone on the labor. However, I would not lead in with the mechanic on this in case you are having to deal with a mechanic you have not worked with before. The last thing you want to do is say you are open to other repairs before they even tell you what they see. Let them come to you with the issue and cost estimates first.
What would be the cost for a complete job lile this thru a mechanic? A job of this size would be far more than I can handle. I normally to basic stuff on my own breaks, plugs, oil etc.
@@NVSTRZ34 I'm Arizona and my biggest struggle is just finding a dealer that will do the work. 😠 Oh and paying for it too eapecially if it goes up to the $2000 level.
Hey NVSTRZ34, I have a aftermarket gauge on my 2011 g37 and whenever I start it up it goes up to 102-103 which is normal but whenever I drive around for a little when the car is warmed up I get around 14-13 at 500. I know at 650 it's supposed to be at 15. Also, whenever I come to a stop and hit my brakes, my gauge goes down from 24 to 10 or 11 and then it jumps back up to 15 - 16. Is that normal?
Oooof. So, that pressure seems a little low. I hear idle is supposed to be 15+ minimum. As far as the jumping around goes, this makes sense because its going to vary based upon how fast the engine is running. Doubling back, once again, I think that idle psi seems low. Would suggest having a z/g specialist taking a look at it. Sometimes the gauges can be a little off. So hard to diagnose over the internet. BUT, once again, idle psi seems low imo.
I just had my g37s 2009 hit 88k miles and got a code p0524 could that be it i was just driving and the service light. cane on and the care started yanking bad. I made it home on 6 gear though. help!
Hello! Hope I can help a little here. I would start by making sure you have an adequate oil level in your car first. Second, you really will have to probably take it to a mechanic to diagnose further. Have you already checked the oil level to start out with?
Hello Thanks for this informative video. Facing such symptoms with this trouble code P0011 which is intermittent. Have replaced camshaft connecting rod, camshaft phaser, ivt sensor, checked timing chain, tensioners oil pressure is not throwing code. They are good but didn't solve my problem. My question is how do I know my nissan use galley gasket; my car is Nissan Sentra 2008 Base model 2.0l petrol. Help me with the answer bro, because the symptoms fit my problems I am having. My engine is MR20DE
Ive had the Gallery gaskets replaced in my 07 Hr and has great oil pressure at a cold start at basically 120 psi and when warmed up and at idle stays at around 30-33 psi. But sometimes when i start the car when its hot and warmed up my oil light comes on for a slight second then goes away but my oil pressure is perfect at 30 psi?? Any idea what it could be?
So, I had not heard of this personally. I did browse around a little bit just not and seems that many people were actually replacing the oil pressure sensor with good results. Have you already tried to do this? Is the engine running smoothly at startup?
Now this is a great question I couldn't find a SOLID answer for. My BELIEF is YES. Pretty much, all pre-2013 VQ engines have the old style gallery gaskets installed that are prone to potential failure. On the Z1 website, they sell the gallery gasket kits, but the M35 wasnt specifically listed. However, when I am on the Concept Z Performance website, it DOES list the M35 as an impacted car potentially. I am putting a list of the impacted VQ35DE and VQ37VHR model vehicles below as well as the link to browse around for more details on models outside of the Nissan Z and Infiniti G line of vehicles. VQ35DE Link: conceptzperformance.com/czp-rear-timing-cover-oil-gallery-gasket-set-vq35de-nissan-350z-infiniti-g35-fx35-13533-vq35de-kt_p_26069.php VQ37VHR Link: conceptzperformance.com/czp-rear-timing-cover-oil-gallery-gasket-set-vq35hr-vq37vhr-nissan-350z-370z-infiniti-g35-g37-q40-q50-q60-q70-m37-fx35-fx37-qx70-13533-vq37vhr-kt_p_31979.php Hope this helps. Thanks for your comment! -Justin
@@NVSTRZ34 it was straitfoward I watched a couple videos and just with that I did it on my own just be very careful with the timing chain. I’m gonna do my friends in a couple weeks his G keeps getting into limp mode cuz he’s loosing oil pressure
@@miguelvillalobos4718 Yeah. Would probably take me a couple days too since I would be freaking out about the chain lol. You swap out anything else since you were in there? I think I have seen there are some other seals/etc that people are refreshing since the cover is off. So just replace the gallery gaskets and call it a day.
Infiniti told me its my cam phaser on the passenger side. Im getting p0340 and p0011. And car will not start unless passenger side cam sensor is unplugged and It drives like the transmission is slipping with the cam sensor unplugged or plugged in. Is this related?
Really hard to say. Infiniti knows of this issue (gallery gasket failures). If they are saying its something else, I would believe them (personally speaking). The only thing you might want to consider is if they are digging around in your engine, is now a good time to also replace your gallery gasket as well? If its already all apart....probably so. Just my $0.02. 👍
I have a 2010 g37x with 188k on it now and have had the car sense it had about 100k I have never had this issue do u know why or is there still time for it to happen?
Hello Dylan! Thanks for your comment and support. Unfortunately, still a very real possibility that you encounter this issue. The reason I made this video is for people just like you. This topic is one of the very real known issues with our engines, but just not WIDELY KNOWN enough. That being said, 188K on the odometer is still a fantastic mileage to get out of these engines. If you are doing your timing chain/water pump any time soon... just swap out the gallery gaskets too while you are in there. They are right next to each other. Hope this helps. Let me know if there are any questions. Take care, Justin
You know anything about EOT sensor issues?? Changed my sensor but gauge still don't budge but still does the full sweep on start up. Code P0198...no one seems to know 🤷🏻♂️
Interesting. So, a few quick questions: - Have you changed your oil recently? - Did you happen to take a look at the pins on the sensor and harness to make sure they seem clean and aligned (not bent)? - Does the gauge just not do anything both before and after the new sensor install (at all times)? - Around the time it stopped functioning, did you perform any work on the car?
The best/only resolution I have really found around this issue seems to be centered around replacing the battery. That thread is here: www.the370z.com/exterior-interior/134250-oil-temp-gauge-issue.html What is the general condition of your battery? See post #15 in the link up above.
@@NVSTRZ34 it happened the day after I fitted a new Y pipe and Mid pipe but couldn't really see how that would effect it unless back pressure may have some effect...no difference between before and after sensor change
My plans are, if the engine is cracked apart for any reason, do it then and save on labor having to crack it open twice. Otherwise, I personally will keep driving normally unless I get signs of failure or premature failure.
@@Music-zz5il A tick is usually not a good sign. Can be lots of things. Always check your oil levels and maintain normal oil change intervals. Best advice is to record it and post it up on the Facebook 370z pages for more feedback. SOMETIMES, its not serious. Just a starting place. Depending on how serious the gasket failure is, it may not necessarily throw a code (from what I've heard and seen).
@@Music-zz5il Yeah. Definitely take a video and post it up. The timing of the tick starting and hitting the animal is odd. That is your best bet for a good diagnosis in my opinion.
Usually, this is a higher mileage Nissan Z and Infiniti G problem. MOST Z's with this problem have around 100K miles. Although, I'm sure there are outliers to this observation.
Hello! Thank you for your comment and support. Both the FX and EX are subject to the gallery gasket failure (potentially). I personally have seen no issues on the Q's though. This would make sense as the Q was a later model vehicle and probably addressed by then with the different engine (VR engine). Hope this helps. Let me know if there are any other questions or comments. Thanks, *Justin*
I have a 2008 EX35 and had this issue fixed under warranty ($3500 to fix back in 2015) now I’m getting a P0021 code (bank2). It’s only one bank. Not sure if it could just be the VVT solenoid.
I have a 2010 g37x with 104k miles and while I was making a u turn and accelerated like 40% throttle and holding the gas the engine revs up but no power ( no codes popped up either) and after about a second power came back on while it was revving up passed 3k rpms, when you mean “limp mode feeling when accelerating” is that what I’m experiencing? Also when at parking lot speeds I tap the gas and it keeps giving me power then cutting power while I hold the gas like it opens throttle then closing it (about 5% throttle) and i notice it more when the ac is on
Thanks for your comment and support. There are most likely 2 issues you could be experiencing. 1. Most likely in my opinion: Dirty throttle bodies and MAF sensors. If you have 104K miles and havent done this yet, you should give it a look. I have a very thorough video about it on my channel. The symptoms you are describing seem very close to the normal symptoms of dirty throttle bodies especially, but you should clean the MAF's too while you are at it. Sounds like a small problem, but the onboard computer REALLY does not like dirty throttle bodies. I bet yours are COATED at 100K+. Its normal on these care and leads to problems like what you have described. My video Link on how to do it easily: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-86I3a2hSncE.html 2. You were low'ish on fuel and are experiencing fuel cut off. This is a very well documented issue with the 370Z. Because of the shape of the Z fuel tank and position of the fuel pump, in tight turning, its very common to have a fuel cut off scenario where not enough fuel gets to the pump (as needed). This is mostly documented in hard sweeping RIGHT turns I believe. You would have had to have been driving pretty aggressively and been below 2/3 tank usually for this to happen, so I consider this a little less likely than #1 above. Let me know if that helps. Take care! 🤘 -Justin
NVSTRZ34 thanks for the response, I have cleaned the throttle bodies and maf sensors before I changed the spark plugs before 100k miles, also when I did that I turn it was a left turn even when I’m just accelerating normally from a stop it hesitates, when I give her more throttle it jerks, I forgot to mention that a few months after I bought the car I hear a rattle from the engine when accelerating from a stop, it sounds like spark knock but it’s weird because I always used 93 when I bought it and even used octane booster and fuel injection cleaner and it still knocks, I have changed the oil 3 times since, first was with PP 5w30 then redline 5w30 and the. Mobil 1 0w40, funny enough the engine pings or knocks with the first 2 oil changes but when I changed to 0w40 I haven’t heard it since, so that’s why I think it’s the galley gasket, but it doesn’t hurt to clean the throttle and maf it’s pretty easy anyway, but can I disconnect the sensor from the throttle body for a better clean? Oh also when I changed the plugs there was some oil in the spark plug tubes so maybe it’s because of leaky valve cover gasket?🤷🏼♂️
@@Arctice36 sounds like a valve clearance problem. If your not burning oil (from the rings being worn, which from what your saying, they’re fine) than it would sound like the valves themselves or maybe the timing chain is in need of adjustment. Im assuming this is a likely cause and fix as the higher viscosity you chose for the running oil fixed the problem. So it’s filling In a serious underlying problem EDIT: although a leaking valve cover can cause issues in terms of having oil on your spark plugs. Your orings on your previous spark plugs were probably shot, so that’s probably why they had residual oil on them, but it’s not a good sign
Thank you for your comment and support! I put a link to the impacted years in the video description. Also, found the discussion links below as well: www.the370z.com/engine-drivetrain/126011-oil-gallery-gasket.html www.350z-uk.com/topic/99607-zed-owners-must-read-p0011-p0021-caused-by-oil-gallery-gaskets/ I found some other links as well while preparing the video that referenced 2013 as well. Hope this helps! Let me know if there are any questions/comments still. Take care, Justin
Buy it cheap enough that when the time comes, its not an issue and you have the funds. Use the high mileage and my video of the "Top 10 370Z Issues" to your advantage when negotiating. 👍
@@5.7_TY Its a thing. I didn't either for a while as well. When the older Z's started to really hit the higher mileage range, its become a much bigger problem.
