The One Tool I Regretted Most Buying 

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I’m 14 years old and only live with my mom. I just got my first vise and building up my tool collection, thank you for your videos and the knowledge that you have passed on.

Forgetting what "Forks" are called on a "Forklift" was priceless. Now I don't feel so bad when I forget a word.

You should use cutting fluid to keep the annular cutters cool and lubricated, they will last alot longer

They key ring was invented so as to provide a way to loose all your keys at once.

They make a fork ball attachment. We had one at my old work. You slide it over both forks and it has a chain to attach to the mast. With both forks you can hold more weight without bending the forks.

When removing the ball from your hitch, just leave the hitch in the receiver on your vehicle. No vice needed!

So, when working around the shop in the Army, especially overseas, we used a forklift to move most trailers in and out, rather than trying to use the truck, because it was faster and easier. What they had done was taken two pieces of rectangular tubing and welded them together (close and side by side, so that the forks had to be pushed close together) and mounted a pintle out the front of it. The bracket was then chained to the fork assembly and off they went. A solution for those who can't drill their forks, or for the more industrious. Works great, though I think a ratcheting binder would keep it a little more secure than just two chains.

I have used the Milwaukee hole hawgs for years on jobs drilling holes in massive I-beams. Mag drills are God sends for drilling lots of holes in steel.

Be aware always use cutting fluid when drilling metal, to extend the life of your bits! Also to drill into metal the bigger the hole the slower you drill(cut) to keep from burning up your bits! Fabrication work for 43 plus years!

On the forklift in our shop we put a hole in each fork and put a "hitch" across. This evenly distributes the load on both forks. No bent forks!

The idea of your grandad even knowing to write down the pad lock number to keep all the locks with one key was BRILLIANT and worth the video alone.

Just started watching your video, I live in Idaho and worked for a company that drilled holds in the forks of a grade all OSHA made them put new fork on it said it compromised the forks, so in Idaho it's a no no. We didn't have a ball we used the holes for rigging, but OSHA wouldn't go for it.

As an amateur homeowner I did as was told and paused at that point liked and commented

I developed your hitch system when I worked at Wing Enterprises 20+ years ago, no royalties for me but a good system. I originally named it Quick-draw.

Hi Cody. I have a Rotobor Mag drill made in England. The trick is to give the cutter a good few drips of oil when drilling. Regarding safety, when drilling make sure u have a wood stick in hand then ad the swarf reaches around inch n 1/2 just use that stick and touch the swarf to break up. I have the Jancey Mag drill which is the pre Fein owned Jancey drill made in Davenport Iowa.

Love the video! Im a welder, and about a month ago someone was using a mag drill about that size to drill a hole. A shaving caught his glove, and it ended up taking two of his fingers, all of the skin off of his hand, and a strip of his arm off with it. NEVER EVER wear gloves or long sleves when using one of these, similar to a lathe.

It looks like that has an automatic oiler. Should help to keep your bits from dulling or burning up too quickly.

That little plastic tank on the top of your mag drill is for lubrication of the cutting drill . Fill it with cutting fluid and it will automatically feed cutting fluid through the center of your cutting drill . The instructions are in the manual that came with the drill . Lubricate those cutting bits , they are not cheap .

9:00 Lithium grease works great as a high-torque thread lubricant as well, and it's something you'll generally have a tub of sitting around the shop. We used to double-nut rods of 1" all-thread on either side of a plate of iron to move boulders, and they'd have to be cut off since they'd almost weld together i the process of pulling the rocks. We started putting white lithium bearing grease on the threads before torquing the nuts down, and they'd actually screw right off then

I tow 2 different boats. Years ago one had a 1 7/8" coupler and the other a 2" coupler. When it came time to replace the coupler on the 1 7/8", I switched to a 2" coupler. Greatly simplified things and I always look to do this.

The Companies that makes the chemicals in cans with applicators don't intend for you to use the entire jar. The idea is that any contaminants you bring back on the brush sink to the bottom, and you don't pick them up again. Got that one explained to us at a Henkel training.

Welcome back friends of the fizz: today we discuss the electromagnetic drill press

A huge testimony to your channel and subs here. Gabe Colon leaves a comment and just look at the folks trying to lift this young man up and help. If that does not show the thumbs down people who daily leaves those , well I guess nothing will ! I hope a gentleman close to Gabe will intervene and show this young man the hands on lessons which will forge him into a good man. This was such a great lift to my spirit to see ! Have a great day everyone and take the time to find a Gabe in your area to help along !

I would suggest drilling the hole closer to the end of the fork for a couple of reasons. 1. When you start using shackles for lifting loads 2. Some heavier trailers with 6” or 8” channels will interfere if you have to much stick out on the fork. Speaking from experience.

Where I work we had the welder make a piece that slides over the fork with pinnal ball hitch on the end. It had a chain and binder that connects it to the forklift. It worked well. Infact the heavy equipment mechanic's started using it for stuff way heavier than then it was intended for.

The best thing about Annular Cutters (bits for the Magdrill) is that resharpening really extends the life of them.

Another pro tip! Mount that ball closer to the tip of the fork, otherwise if your coupler is on 3x3, 4x4 or greater steel, it'll hit the tip of the fork when turning. I need one of those drills!

My $0.02 worth; in order to stop the build-up of the swarf (the metal shavings, chips et al), simply retract/return the drill back up and down momentarily to allow the metal shaving to 'break' and not be one continuous Scourer of Death. Retract/return as many times as those shavings get to an unsafe length. An added bonus is that you clear the hole and make it easier for the cutter to do its work.

I'd love to see LockPickingLawyer take a look at that lock. He makes every lock look useless, but I'm sure it's still pretty good regardless.

When I was in my early 20's I worked at a foundry here in Sweden and we used these kinds of drills to get rods for testing the strength of the material, I got such a nostalgia rush from watching this.

Bolt locks are amazing! I have a hitch pin lock, a couple pad locks, and my in-bed toolbox has a Bolt lock as well. It's awesome. For non truck related padlocks, I got some Abus locks with Schlage cores. I can key them alike to my house key so I only have to carry that one key to get into sheds/gates/whatever.

"Pro Tip" is absolutely being thrown around kind of loosely here obviously. Instead of blowing a hole in a fork build a frame you can pull up to and easily run both forks into the pockets you have welded utilizing the same spacing you most use your forks. In the center of this framework mount your hitch receiver. (Pro tip, when welding up your frame work remember to jump up in the seat and check down at visibility, it's possible to make this apparatus in a forks tilted up slightly, ball hitch level configuration that makes coming in low under a trailer tung still highly visible). I have two of these one with a reciever and one with a 5th wheel for 48' box Van's I keep an air bubble with glad hand and ball valve installed on the hose for releasing air brakes. I "park" or leave these hitch units on stands I built outside and out of the way in an area i have access to no matter the weather. When I need them I check the position of my forks before I jump on the tractor.

I used to buy the really nice adjustable hitches. Both I had were over 200 bucks. But I’ve gone back to the simple 40 dollar hitches. Both adjustable hitches got stolen and both had lockable pins. After the second one I have up on the whole idea of having one hitch for anything.... 400 bucks buys a lifetime of the cheaper hitches 😂

Two things, first... I think you should always remind us to hit the thumbs up button. I don't always remember but when you remind me I always do it. Secondly..... I'm not the most religious person but I really like that you ask for prayers and that you say that you pray for us. It really comes off genuine and even a not so religious guy like me takes a minute for you and your family.

Whats done is done but at work we made up a box section with a tow bar on the end that slides over the tine and locks in with a pin behind the forks, it means that it can slide on and off when we need it and can be used on other machines also means you don't have to drill into your forks. If you want a sketch of it i can send it in an email :)

At work, we use 1 inch for the big bolts up to 80mm socket size. Were handeling class 2 and 3 fuels, so every tool need to be in anti spark alloy (brass, beryllium-copper, aluminium, lead)

I need to find some projects so I have a need for one of those drills 😂 That fuzzy plate cover must be a west coast thing

That's pretty fast for drilling through a forklift fork. I would suggest using flood style coolant for that instead of that gel. It will increase the life of the tool. There is also an adapter for your mag drill to run regular Jacob's style chucks for smaller holes and tapping .

I work in a heavy equipment yard and so we often have to move large trailer around so instead of having a hole in a fork we made I kind of fork attachment with a 2inch receiver on the end that we just keep a pineal on and there’s a 3/8 chain with a grab hook on each end the you chain around the cage of the fork lift and it works great, just figured I’d throw that out there for ideas for others

My father made a little hitch for the edge of a bucket on a skid steer but he also made it for pallet forks/any forks. He had a chain hook on the end so you could chain it to the top of the bucket or the back of the forks.

That’s such a better mag drill than what we use at work I’m seriously impressed that’s awesome

Grandad's wisdom never ceases to amaze me. I'd love to see a photo of him some time! God bless

I work as a GC and with all our crews have a piece of rectangular tubing large enough for the fork to slide in. Then a ball of choice welded to the top, then lastly, a piece of chain with a hook on it welded to the back of the tubing. Simply slide it on the fork, hook it to the mast of the forklift/skid steer use away.

I use a piece of rectangular tubing, I Mount the ball on the tubing, slip the tub over the lift arm it has hocks any whear alone the length of the tubing that's handy to reach secure it with a ratchet strap or chain binder depending upon how big the load. Now you don't need any tools to remove or install the ball. I built some using a pin to hold the tubing in place but sometimes drilling is not allowed.

I could have used a toupee like yours yesterday. I got sunburn on my head while doing some outdoor chores.

Thanks for the reminder to comment! It’s free and fun! 😅

Dad was a diesel mechanic for MANY years and so things like 3/4 inch drives are pretty common for me. I've only once or twice seen him break out one inch drive sockets and tools but I gotta tell you, they're some of the most monstrous ratchets (if you can even call them that) I've ever seen. imagine a hole for a socket bigger than your thumb maybe even both of them depending on the size of your hands. It's one of those cases of "there's no way in hell this WON'T turn. They're honestly some of the weirdest and simultaneously coolest tools I've ever seen

magic drills are a godsend. I work in a shop building tanks we use a mag drill to drill holes of any size under 2 inch. alot easier to do then blow through 1 1/2 thick shells with a oxymoron touch. we have to do it on bigger nozzle holes but requires alot of grinding to get the hole up to weld quality. now super inportant is when the shell is round you have to make sure it's lever and the shell is lever then shim it in place. get a bottle with small hole in lid to spray cutting oil into the hole. also always turn off drill if you have to get shavings out of the way. I grabbed a handful of the shavings a long one caught the bit and sliced my glove into my finger. 6 stitches. also never force the drill as magnet can let go then it spins around and that is also scary. be safe and that tool is something that can do amazing things.

I don’t think you realize that you are living so many peoples dreams

We in Canadian Oil patch calls that anti-seize “dope”.

we use a welded sleeve with the ball attached welded to it, that goes over the skid tip, still with a hole in the forks and a hole in the sleeve, right the way through and a locking pin, so theres no bolting involved to fit it and it comes off real quick.

My old workplace had one of these; albeit it was a lever action magnet, similar to the style used in inspection gauge stands. I loved it for drilling 90 degree holes on the go but it would release using anything bigger than a .5" bit. I certainly couldn't run that drill and mill even through a stick of butter.

Hey Cody thanks for sharing your life experience with us. I know It has greatly helped me as an aspiring land / property manager.

I can’t help but notice all the mtb gear 😀

I think that driving on the right means I can see farther through left hand turns/curves. I can see the whole line of the curve, the apex, and the exit. With more confidence in the future curve line I am following, I can smoothly apply the brakes and throttle, predicting my trail braking and roll on. That confidence lets me take left curves faster and with therefore more lean.

pro tip from an east coast guy weld up a bracket that'll slip on to your forks and clamp it down with 2 bolts. then put a receiver hitch in the middle and your ball is centered between both forks. I can have mine on and off again by the time you bolt yours into your fork.

i just love it how you say professional homeowner

Cannot believe how fast that was. It gave me anxiety watching it plung through. I just knew your bit was about to melt into a puddle. LOL!

I use Never Seize brand anti-seize w/ teflon because that was used EXCLUSIVELY by all oil companies on all offshore oil rigs in the Gulf of Mexico. Everything with threads was supposed to get coated. Twenty years later, when you had to remove that nut, it would spin off after breaking the torque. You could tell when the item didn't get coated. It was a hassle.

you want to see 1 inch drive, pretty common at places that service big trucks and tractors. Got a nice 3/4 impact from there also.

The sun was out today and I was so busy at home. The chores will never end.

I guess I missed where he actually mentioned what tool he regretted buying the most?

I once heard about someone working on a state bridge crew. When he was told to pick up the mag drill, which was upside down on a bridge beam, when the shift was over, he unplugged it without securing it first. As far as I know it's still in the river.

mag drills are used used pretty often on structural steel. especially in smaller shops and on job sites

That rotabroach went through that fork like it was butter!👍

Did I just hear Cody Wranglerstar say he leans left?

with the left side you are right... most cars have driver on left side.. so you see more things on the left... i ride mainly 16ton forklift and its seat is off centered for some reason to the left... but even smaller ones are off center to the left

Those are good hitches for highway use, but for gravel/off road use they get bound up with mud and dirt, had many the pins got stuck in and had to press out , also had the pins bend under a heavy load , but haven't had a problem with the one on my highway rig .

Made my skin crawl when he drilled with no fluid

I have no idea why but the jokes about east coast guys crack me up! Hi from North Georgia!

Never-Seez is also good for press fits and taper fits. I called the maker of Never-seez and they explained it is perfect for a press fit. It is also great for slathering onto a diesel fuel injector that mounts into a well in the cylinder head.

I enjoy your channel and agree that electromagnetic drill press is a tremendously helpful tool! I am not a big fan of placing a trailer ball at the end of a fork for a tractor or skid steer. I have found that while this can place high stress on a single fork, it also generates too much tipping leverage on the machine when you lift a heavy trailer or piece of equipment. Maybe with a tractor you can get away with it but with a skid steer I have had much better performance using an adapter mounted receiver hitch (from Titan Industries) which brings the ball much closer to the machine lowering the tipping leverage quite a bit and allowing me to move heavier trailers and equipment.

Love the can smash trick! I'll definitely use that one!

Nice tool that drill.. I was watching a video of feins new mag drill and it has an auto feed feature aswell looked pretty cool

From your video it doesn’t seem you regret the purchase at all, I’m in the thinking stages, researching the different brands and price

So on an annual cutter I.E. slugger bit for most, the way they are sharpened each tooth is actual not exactly the same height its minimal talking tenths but when you dont have enough pressure to start the chip load in the cut. It runs on just one tooth causing the chatter. When you give it feed pressure you engage all the teeth in the cut evening out the load on the cutter and taking out the vibration resonance or the ringing and chatter that you hear.

I make little jewelry out of wire, my workspace is such a mess aaa

This East Coast guy thumbs up this West Coast guy's videos before even watching just to make sure I don't forget.

Mag drills are neat we've got a really beefy Milwaukee at work (before they gone down hill) it's 75lbs so very hard to position upside down. Those cutters are called annular cutters. Those slugs make really nice knobs or wheels.

Looks like I'm way behind the times. First off, drilling that hole would have taken me a long time with my drills and bits. I don't think I've ever seen a bit like yours but this is something I have to get. Second, I wasn't aware there were locks that keyed themselves to any key just by inserting a key into it. That's really slick. Got to get me one of those

One of the most underrated tools for sure. I've used them on titanium pipe and other non-ferrous material by using steel plate clamped in place with quality chain grips. On large sites make sure you tag the extension cord with "Mag Drill in Use" just incase some skeezbag decides unplugging an unknown cord for a minute is no big deal.

i literally whistled at how quick it drilled through that steel. holy cow

Hey. I make pac stoves. I have two pro tips to share. Used motor oil goes on most things i put on the drill press or cut off saw. My drill bits last much longer, ect. I also polish my leather danner boots with used motor oil. Those boots are more than 20 years old atm.

I grew up on a farm. We always weld the ball to the top center of the bucket / forks. Located there you never need to remove it whereas on the fork you need to take it off every time you want to use it. The other option is to make a receiver that slides over the end of the fork and chains around the back and back to the receiver again like I use with a loader at work. Where I live the actual forks need to be certified to be able to use them legally, any holes will prevent a certification but welding to the bracket well above the forks or sliding something over it and securing it with a chain is completely legal and makes it a lot faster.

Your videos are nothing short of fantastic, thankful to have someone I can relate to and is such a great man

Seems like the squealing from the bit is being caused by such a large bit turning too fast and is burning up the bit. If that thing has a speed setting I'd try slowing it down.

Good morning Cody! One piece of advice, if that one can do it, slow your rpms. Those bits will chew better in some steel at slower rpms and the chatter isn't as bad.

I have a 1 inch impact and like 3 sockets for it. My uncle bought it form a dude who worked in the shop with him. And He was going to sell it to someone he knew who needed one. We have never used it I just now got it to where it would hook up to the air tank. But that thing is a monster. It’s a wrist breaker

Annular Cutter -- Adam Savage did a whole episode about these. Great tool!

I can't even look at a can of antiseize without getting all over literally everything

Same thing turning a steering wheel to the left, I have heard before that it has something to do with the location of your heart being slightly to the left of your torso!

If you have a speed controller on it (usually right on top of the drill), then its a good Idea to lower the speed when drilling a metal that hard. You have the better quality drill bits so they are going to last longer but the carbide tips will start to break off quicker with that speed. And another good thing to watch out with these is that when you clean the shavings, try to make sure the halfway drilled hole doesn't have any shavings in it cuz from my experience that can break of more than one tooth in one go for some reason.

“East Coast guy” comments always makes me laugh. Thanks for the humor

Thanks for a great channel. When you use the mag drill upside down on a girder, Always tie it on. All it takes is to blow a breaker or accidentally unplug and the drill will drop like a lead balloon.

@wranglerstar - Little tip I've figured out. When removing a hitch ball you can just clamp the nut into the vice, then use the recever like a wrench to losen the nut. Usually it comes right off and you don't need to head to the toolbox.

Why didnt you fashion a piece to slide the forks into? At an old job they used very thick rectangular pieces and welded the ball onto a piece of metal connecting the 2. So instead of having to attach a ball to the tractor or forklift they simply slid the forks into the metal and basically had a centered ball trailer hitch. Worked amazingly

The only reason he would need that drill is if he's planning on breaking into a bank vault, watch the news lol

I'm 15 and live on a farm in Australia and i just love watching all of wranglerstars videos and implementing his ideas and knowledge on my own farm. love what you're doing Cody. if you see this i just want to say you have genuinely made my life better. God bless all.

I used a tow ball that a bolt threads into. Cut a square hole in the fork and used a carriage bolt . That way, the bottom of the fork is flat , the threads are protected, and it's tightened/removed from the top.