Magenta has a higher luminosity than red. Using it over a blue in the shadows makes a nice violet. Violet has been used in painting to increase the luminosity of shadows making them glowy or hazy since around the time of the impressionists. Monet declared it as the colour of the atmosphere!
Right!? Shadows are just places where our eyes perceive less light, not where there is none. It totally seems like an oxymoron but it's not, both in colour theory and physically. Shadows in say, the corner of a room or on the body aren't necessarily radiant however shadows in clouds and the atmosphere kind of are. This is what Monet was referring to I think. "Radiant" shadows being violet makes sense in terms of the EM spectrum with our eyes picking up red light first, because its quicker has a longer wave lengths and so duration, while the more narrow wave lengths appear darker and deeper as they are more dense and occur in shorter pulses, having less energy. If you think about it we're on a planet inside a star and everything has and is buzzing around with some kind of frequency, even if it isn't measurable by our bodies or by our instruments yet. It totally seems like an oxymoron though I agree! That's why Science and Art combined are a type of magic! @@GarrettPDGA
I’ve been watching your channel since you had about 2k subs and would just like to say how nice it is to see you do a tutorial again. Quality advice as always keep up the good work!
I like that you show on screen the specific paint you used. There were a few vids in which I like the color you guys were using but had no clue which brand/color it was
The quick rundown of highlighting on different surfaces was 10/10. That little bit of information often takes some people entire video series to convey.
I’d like to imagine when each legion gets a new space marine recruit, they just have a huge paint bucket of their legions colour and just dump them inside of it and stick some of their legion merchandise stickers on them and call it a day
And even then not that great. The blue is too light. But yeah the thick blue highlights on the other 2 are just really off-putting to me. They look more basic than number 1. I think if I attempted 2 & 3 it'd just be an even sloppier version. The only thing they have going for them is the skill and neatness of the highlights, even though the style is not great looking. But it's subjective I guess?
@@TCMorrigan yeah subjective style. Not eavy metal nor fill grim dark which is fine. Agree the blue is too light for canon UMs but if just focus on the style/effects it's quite nice. Personally I do the zenithal prime the get a decent size dru brush out and do a single light blue pass for highlights before moving on to details. Gets the job done!
I think lighting is a big factor too. Film lights giving the paint a highlight. Shoulders and helm. Some natural light and shadow on all things but normal room lights not tripod filming lights.
In terms of white sprays, GW's new White Scar has a super fine mist so is great for zenithal, gives nice smooth transitions. I've found it better than the Vallejo sprays.
Love the video, felt like a nice alternative to an easy metal style. The main thing I learned from this was for the delicate highlights, they held the brush much closer to the tip, allowing for better brush control, it seems obvious now but Ive always held the brush in the same place when painting and doing neat white highlights have been really difficult when it's not along an edge. Thanks so much!
After trying a few different white spray primers over the years, the Fine Primer White spray (#1011) from AK has become my go-to spray - it gets the job done every time.
I've been using the yygywen cordless airbrush that ninjon stumbled on in one of his videos which I got for fidday bucks on amazon along with the badger air primers and I'm never going back to a rattle can. I was shocked how well that little junker mini airbrush works and taking it outside and spraying them on my trash can in the alley has been nice. I tried valejo airbrush primer at first but it kept peeling off the smoother models and like areas where there was a little superglue residue and stuff. the badger air primers ended up bonding where the valejo wouldnt and seems to dry a tiny bit faster as well
Great examples and straightforward to the subject matter. Like the way you split screen and show detail painting alongside the sponsor material. Otherwise I skip forward.
I get a pretty smooth result with corax white if I keep the rattle can 8+ inches away, keep either the mini or the rattle can moving with each spray, and most importantly a very thin mix of paynes gray ink and medium wash to separate the details and blend the transitions a bit. Fast, cheap, and good.
I love that stipping/sponge highlight technique! I'm looking at how to paint snake skin for some Steel Viper 'Mechs for BattleTech, and I think this would work great for that too.
These are some great techniques. I’ve experimented with slap-chop and found that the standard zenithal (black and white) only really works well with a dark base contrast colour. I tried to use white scar for my Deathwing painting video and basically ended up just basing them again in wraithbone… (I only used white scar as I couldn’t be bothered buying more paint at the time, any one else find white scar a bit grainy? And I heated the can and shook for 4 minutes, still a bit of a grainy finish 🤔)… Also stippling with a brush or sponge like you do in the video is the best way I’ve found to make gradients. For a smooth finish I just do a couple of really light glazes over the top to blend things in a bit more at the end. Love the videos!
ya white scar is a known paint that is just not great too often, the standard zenithal id say is good for all base colors for a light color its also great but i guess ti depends on how much you sprayed white on the black primed mini and how much shadow you want.
This is just a helpful video for the technique even if you are not doing ultra marines. I am gonna use a lot of this stuff going into any future armies i start. Specifically the airbrush stuff i am always intimidated to do more with it but these are all amazing ways to speed up some of the more tedious painting steps.
The absolute best rattlecan primer I've ever used is Gunze Mr Finishing Surfacer 1500. Its remarkably tolerant to variances in ambient temperature/humidity.
11:26 I am very limited in my hobby situation, can't do air brushes or other sprays, so I like it when ol'mate says it's dumb not to use airbrush for the last method😅
This must be the filler project between the high intensity videos: "Lukas, I am sick of pouring 3000l of resin and building sky-high dioramas. What do we do this week? " -"The same things we always do, when we don't know what to do next Emil - we paint some Space Smurfs!"
This video makes you appreciate how underestimating space marines can be. Although the 3 examples are quite decent for table top standard, it goes to show how much time it takes to paint the clean GW look with all the edge highlights. Seeing good painters like yourselves ditching the clean smooth finish in order to get fast results was very consoling😅 I might have another tip to try, Over brushing followed by selective edge highlighting. But we’ll never see such a video on Squidmar as Emil is an open Dry brush hater 😂
I'd like to see you guys do a really cool Horus Heresy army / Display. It would be cool to see all those cool plastic 30k models get the squigmar glow up and diorama
Awesome, enjoy! I have only done 2 models so far (both Ultramarines) but spent 20 hours on the first and 12 on the 2nd doing a full eavy metal style. Check out infernal brush "How to paint an Ultramarine" video if you want to do a more clean and pro look. It does take much longer mind you and many more paints.
The colours here make it look like the imaginary light source is very cold light. Is this the best way to make blue pop? Would be great to see a tutorial on when to change the imaginary colour temperature of light source for different colours. Ie. Always use cold for primary blues, always use warm for primary reds etc.
Yeah me to, although I believe that's because they recently created a new version without telling anyone. It was listed as "new" on their website a while ago and might still be.
I use the Chinese ones from Ali express made out of weasel and squirrel hair? Not sure about the last one but they are great, better than synthetic and quite cheap, for 10 bucks you get a full set
I want to see new ways to paint black armour. Like a Raven Guard. Ravens have that black oil like look up close shimmers of blue purple and green. I don’t want all 3 in one paint scheme but how to do it so that the black isn’t over saturated by blue etc.
I used to paint when they were lead. Been years and fancied trying it again thank you for your video, much appreciated. Would you recommend getting back in and starting with airbrush from the start again? Salamanders for me. And what do you think of the games workshop paints?
I’m new to the hobby and have only been painting a couple of months now and admittedly your videos inspired me to get into it - so thank you! When painting SM this way, are you just forgoing unit markings? Or how would you incorporate them using one of these examples?
What would be the best method of high lighting the black and white Theme of the Raven Guard for example, since they use Black and White. Would using Grey's and gloss blacks work as highlights without looking forced and look more natural? This will all be done with a brush atm.
Emil... Awesome tutorial as usual... But... I want to see your take on The Legion of the Damned... Can that be done? Greetings all the way from Lima, Perú!
i recently discovered AK interactive primer cans, and had a great time priming my models, expecially with white! Would be nice that you try them and give us a feedback!
I noticed you were spray priming outside in the snow, do you find that lower temperatures have much of an effect on the finish? Most people say you'd want something between 60-80 Fahrenheit.
I use spray cans when I am lazy, which my marines I am lazy. Black, med grey, then light grey zenth spray. Then I literally just thin Tass blue contrast a little and put it on. ezpz.
