Good review. I have had my Qidi X plus 3 (version 2) for about 4 months. Had very similar problems. Good support from Qidi ! Would recommend to any advanced user for the more difficult filaments.
With more chamber temp, the more cooling you need. Bump up the cooling on those overhangs and it will print great. You can set the overhang cooling % depeding on the overhang angle. You should print abs at 65 degrees, even that is too low.
@@SimonaDaRat If it can reach 80C then heat soak it to 80 and turn on all the cooling it has. Throw everything you got on it cooling wise and you will witness ABS prints with actual layer adhesion. Part orientation will not matter, it will be equally strong in all directions. However at 80C you will need A LOT of cooling but it will never warp and will print better than PLA.
@@sabahoudini in the promo’s they say it can reach 65 but in my experience yeah it can reach around 80C , i have never tried ABS on it i have mostly been running CF-Nylon and PCTG
So stacking this up againt the x1c would you say this is the better buy or not I guess? Yes theres more tuning needed but I have been debating hard whether to go qidi or bamboo. The thing that scares me with bamboo is the general lack of customer service/ support. This one seems to be a printer that is less of a throw away item and more of one they are willing to help you fix. Where as a bamboo seems mosre disposable if you will.
Of Qidi X-plus 3 and Bambu P1S, which would you prefer for ASA printing. Secondly would you share your settings on each machine you use when printing asa. I was going to get the Bambu P1s but support , max bed temp of 100 C and seems like it could be lots of warping. Secondly which of these 2 would you prefer for fine tuning to print pla miniatures?
For ASA I honestly have been preferring the Qidi. You don’t *need* the heated chamber but it makes it extremely easy. Honestly either would be fine for PLA minis if you use a 0.2 nozzle. For PLA minis tho honestly just grab an A1 mini fr cheap and slap a 0.2mm nozzle and use it for that only.
You complain about whatever you want to complain about! But it does look cool. What's the benefit of ASA over other materials? And would the heater be better for other materials too?
ASA has all the heat resistance of ABS, around 100C glass transition, but has bit more UV resistance. It’s my go to for prints that go outside. It would be nice for anything that’s hotter than PETG, so ABS, ASA, Nylon, PP, and other technical high heat filaments!
I have one coming on the third. How did you turn the exhaust fan off? Was it in the slicer or just unplug it from the mainboard or is there an option on the screen to turn it off?
@ButterPockets got my x-plus 3 last night gonna try some abs later today, been really struggling with filament curling and sticking to nozzle making first layers difficult even with perfect bed level. Maybe abs will be different
In one way I like this as a first printer because it has a LOT of capability but it doesn’t hand feed it to you and make it absolutely dead simple. Which could be considered a good thing because it forces you to learn a bit to get things going really good. On the other hand, someone might not like that because it’s less turn key than say a P1S which to be frank would be better with less effort. BUT even a P1S can be better than it’s out of the box condition. There’s pros and cons to both in terms of firmware and features. I would definitely put it on the list for a first printer!
@@riscdesignI don’t agree with that in the slightest. I don’t agree with the whole “you should start with the crappiest 3D printer on the market to understand it” thing. I wouldn’t recommend an Ender 3 to anyone in 2024.
@jakobwest4811 the ender 3 recommendation is because if you don't want the simplicity of Bambu.... then you should go for a bed slinger. Given that you will likely be replacing that bedslinger soon, you might as well make it a microcenter special. If someone just wanted a 3D printer that works, I would tell them to get a Bambu A1 or P1S..... depending on budget
@@ButterPocketsI was looking for the filter and thought the same about that packet thinking it was a spare dessicant. I opened it and had a duh moment. No documentation on the filter at all tho. 😂
I don't understand what exactly you comparing here while using different filaments on different printers. You should test same filament with different printers to compare how well they print. And use one printer and 2 filaments if you want to compare how well filaments prints.
I'm scratching my head too. Why even waste so many prints on toys that go in the garbage. Pressing print isn't a hobby. It's a tool. I don't get people's obsession with needing so many machines at once because they do not appreciate in value. That box you printed had walls like a mm thick and you wonder why perpendicular layers (to the nozzle) let go haha.
@@jstro-hobbytech For starters it’s impossible to tune a printer without wasting some filament. For two, I own a business (and a RU-vid channel obviously) that does more than just toys and I personally try to not print things that are just junk. Most of what comes out of my printers was designed by me. Third, I gave an explanation for why those layers split and all layers always perpendicular to the nozzle…so not sure what you meant there. You’re printing entirely in a plane perpendicular to the nozzle. Regardless, I don’t think anyone should have to justify what they print. It is a hobby whether you like it or not - the printer is the tool you use for your hobby. Same with a car, a table saw, or a computer.
@@ButterPockets You got some real douche bags in your comments man, sorry to see that. I liked your video fine, and you don't need to justify what you do with your printers to that dumb ass.
