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The die you made that ended up with the “sloped sides” is actually how closed cavity dies are designed. The draft angle is what allows the finished part to release from the die. Happy accident, that! I suggest another die to make the preform. It would need a top and bottom die. It would taper the nib and then bend the nib and hinge area. Then turn it 90 degrees to make the final part. When we make forged brass lever handles we have a bending die mounted next to the closed cavity die. One strike to bend, one strike to forge. Excellent build!
This takes me back to my drop hammer days. You need to make a preform die that matchs the width and curvature of your finish Die. You can do both processes in the same heat. Also, as I currently run steel and titanium forgings on a 12,000 ton Erie press, I would suggest using a graphite lubricant. You wipe it on the die prior to forging. Not only will that help the flow of material but it also helps the release of the part from the die.
@@bodyno3158 same. At my current job we dip our titanium in liquid ceramic and let it air dry to a boutique .002 of an inch. It turns to a glass coating in the furnace and protects the material from oxidation. We Forge precision air foils for military and commercial turbine engines. We don't want any oxidation being forged in. The glass costing stays on the parts during forging and aids in the flow of material. Even so we still use graphite lubricant. Different percentages for different flow rates and tonnage we want during forging. It's weird when forging titanium, addition lube on the die actually slows the spread of material. Light or no coating causes it to spread to fast. Where as with steel forgings its the opposite. In my experience
A book from the 1500s, De Re Metallica by Georg Bauer, was a work about mining, refining and smelting of metals. It had numerous woodcuts that showed scenes with the tools and contraptions of the metal workers, with a description of what you saw. One of those 'tools' was a beer can, as a little joke on the side. Which I find quite charming. Now I imagine how if Bauer would still live today and move on from describing the way of the metal from mining to smelting to writing about the forge, there would be the burrito tongs on one of his pictures.
Making tongs and tools of the trade, literally are the teaching tools of blacksmithing. Refining the designs of jaws, handles and pivot points teaches you design skills and understanding of stress points and pinch points. I usually can make tongs in less than 45 minutes and enjoy the design process. You made a nice video, and the outcome was well done. I liked and subscribed to your channel. Thank you for sharing.
It looks like you could really use a dedicated metal grinding area away from the wood grinding area. I would like to see you make right handed carving hatchets that weight 1lb & 1.5lb. It is difficult to find good carving hatchets that are ground appropriately, not too heavy and not an antique made with too soft of steel.
I would love to do this, but recently f’ed my back, and by recent, 2 yrs ago. Need to retrain into something I can do. Very jelly Tim. Love ya work. Will have to think about getting one of your blackhawks
Timothy always good to see a new video. Very nice job. Very helpful and definitely useful video explaining this. Can't wait to see more videos soon. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Forge on. Weld on. Fab on. Keep making. God bless.
I had a business making tongs that I ran for five years and made thousands of pairs. I tried all kinds of closed dies, but came to the conclusion that without a large enough falling weight (serious industrial infrastructure) and the dies being of a durable (expensive) construction, there was no time saving over open die methods. The market for tongs just isn't big enough to justify the outlay. It came down to practice. The more you do it, the faster you get.
When you watch the big manufacturing of tools with presses, it takes several steps to get from the stock to finished tool. Rough shape, basic shape, refined shape, finished shape.
I’m thinking that if you were to continue developing forms for production tongs, a three stage mold series would be much better for minimizing input material and more accurate final dimensions. Rather than trying to get the final shape in one step
One doesn't see many drop forging or die sinking smaller forging operations. Would love to see one of the old Billings drop hammers making tools. Cool use of your equipment to make what you need.
Make multiple dies to speed up the production even more: 1 pre-bend die and stamp; 2 main forming (already done); 3 finishing, and that's the most important one, including flashing trimming die and hole punching die.
You really need at least one probably two pre form dies. If you look at the guys at gransfors bruk, there's seven preform steps to arrive at an axe via their upsetting machines
watched the first minute, bunch of casual you-already-know type of information loading, subscribed. this is how I learn, not through rote repetition sitting in a gigantic prison cell with 30 other people, but in the environment the information is relevant to. fascinating.
Change the die direction such that you press in the squeezing direction of the tongs so as to preserve the engineering dimensions off the tongs and not have to grind off draft angles.
Big advantage of forging the sinker instead of stock removal, is it's easier to size your preform to minimise flashing while fully filling the die. Make your sinker from 20mm square? That's the stock size you'll need.
Have you considered making a "mold" for the preform, like two blocks of metal with the right contours that you could just take a piece of round bar and smack it between, then press it in? Not sure if that's a good idea, practical, or worth it, but I bet it would feel nice to just take a bar, give it the one-two punch, and have a new set of tongs. :P
I just realized something. I'm like Martin- quiet, shy, unassuming. You my dear Timothy are exactly like my husband. He is gregarious, never met a stranger. We've been married for 20 years now. Together 25. So I guess that kind of partnership- opposites -kind of lasts.
Drill a hole through the die so you can force it back out while it's still hot. Also you could hot cut the flashing off faster because it's already hot. Just swap out your die
Great content Tim. I've been looking for your next video. I've been trying to promote your YT channel and merch. You're the only creator, that I know of, that makes their own merch. How much for a wood box for the 1908 Hudson Bay and Black Hawk I bought for my father. I'm sure one will be enough for both to fit in.
I'd love to buy one of your axes however with being off work for over a month do to a car accident it's just not possible but if you bring them back and I have the money I'll try to buy one then.
Axe design request... a heavy splitter/maul with a tough enough poll to handle pounding steel wedges. I have private access to an amazing abundance of dead standing giants that make premium firewood. However, they're very remote and need to be split down in order to handle. Would gladly pay good money for the right tool.
Hey there buddy…. Why not make you a hook down head side with three holes through it so you could move the pin to get different widths???? Almost like taking a pair of channel locks apart visually and then re-creating that basic design without that slipping feature???? Unless you could get you something that would work just like those curved set of gears that you normally slip and pick????
so, just so I understand- You made a prototype tong (a tool) so you could then use it to press into a block to make a form (another tool) so that you could more easily make tongs (yet another tool) which you then use to make axes (also tools)? When I do something like this, my wife calls it "Tool-ception"
Here's a nice story about how the blacksmith tongs were invented by a wise woman: According to traditions, a man and his daughter-in-law should not speak to each other. So this man, a blacksmith, used to work with metals and kept getting burns on his hands because they didn't have tongs back then. They weren't invented yet. His daughter in low watched him work and wanted to help him, but she couldn't since according to traditions, they could not talk with each other, so instead, when he finished for the day and left the workshop, she stapled two snakes on his door forming the shape of a tong, and when the man came to work the next day, he saw the snakes and immediately understood what to do and created the first tongs.
I think you could make a really thinner pair, just by starting with a much thinner pre-bent rod--- and then hold your original form piece over that smaller rod to hammer it down into the block. Also, that way-- you don't have any extra flange squeezing out that needs to be ground off. You might have to make a couple to get your pre-bend the right thickness to start with; but they could be quite a bit thinner that way and more efficient to make, with less grinding time.
@@dicksargent3582 Thats' true. You would have to make a flat form piece; Just to use it to press it down into the bottom of the block, since the mold is deeper than the thinner rod. I guess you could just make a thinner mold-- but then you still have the flanging problem. I like the idea of making a flat form for the top side.