Dan, did you know that the box cars in front of you were originally were MDC, Model die cast co. "Roundhouse" in kits with a cost of $5.50 each in the 80's , 85 - 89. I remember you could get pretty much every road name they had to offer at the given time with only one road number unless it was a special edition and Paint quality was okay but it was always readily available at the end of times.
Hi! First of all awesome weathering! I watched a lot of videos about weathering and i must say you are one of the best that can be found on youtube! I got myself a similar car. An RBOX from Athearn RTR. I have a few questions: Do you dull-coat or sand your cars with papertowels or similar before fading them with the airbrush to get more grip and get rid of the shinyness of the new models? And do you dull-coat between steps of weathering and/or when the model is finished?
Dan, I have a question for you. Or for anyone else who may be able to answer. I'm following along with your video, but when I was airbrushing the "fade" it came out a bit too spattered. Is possible to start over? How would you remove the acrylic?...If so, should I use a thinner mix of alcohol/white?...Thanks in advance
You need to dilute the paint further and mix it better. Remember it has to be thin, but not to thin. Just take warm soapy water and a toothbrush and softly scrub off the acrylic in your bathroom or kitchen sink.
Hey Dan, quick question regarding this technique. As an alternative to airbrushing, could someone also achieve the underlying fade by dry brushing the same type of water mixable oil paint, but using a white paint, and then after some drying time and sealing, then applying with the same technique the burn umber oil paint?
Great work Dan. I myself just completed 5 HOKX gray sodium hydroxide tankers. Atlas and Walthers cars do the job. ABOX combo door cars are next. Check out HOKX 111548 & 112172 and ABOX cars #51300 & #52020.
