Sorry that the quality of this video isn't the best. If it's your first time on my channel, please check out my newer videos as they are better quality than this. I may redo this video when i have time.
You just saved me from having to take apart half my engine bay to replace a brake like that I stripped a bolt off and had to cut the brake line. Thank you
Nice video. Diagnosed a recent (total) brake failure on my old Volvo as being a leak at line feeding the front DS caliper. This is a big help. Thanks man. 👍👍👍👍
Great video Salem. I loved how you explained the whole compression vs. flare attachment system. Especially the blow off vs. leak with the compression fitting system and front vs. rear brake. I'm doing flares for sure.
I like the example of compression fittings, although kind of long. I would recommend a video showing why not to use compression fittings on brake lines under 1,000-4,000 lbs of pressure. Start the engine with fittings in place and let power assist build up pressure and then slam on brake pedal to show force not holding pieces together.Thanks for the whole explanation.
I own a flare tool but I have never I repeat while knocking on wood never have had a compression fitting fail and I have used about 20 and I usually torque them hard enough that you can not pull the copper ring off once installed i usually only use the copper ring over the old line after cleaning it well and connect it to the new factory flaired line
I have yet to find a compression fitting that I could take off the lie and slip the ferrule off. That said, I always thought that brakes needed to be flared which sucks because now I need to go get a small flaring tool…lol
My state (maine) specifically says you need a double flange on any brake line - “This safety tubing must be double-lap flared at the ends in order to produce a strong leakproofjoint.”
Thankyou Salem for your informational content! I am repairing it on the rear end of my 2000 Chevy tracker that is rusted but am trying to find a budget helpful way of repairing just a bit of it where it is rusted Thanks again. Love the content Love the steel brake lines too ! Lol have a nice day
I'm glad you covered the compression fitting bit right away. All good points! I'm a fan of the nickel copper line, as it is much more resistant to corrosion and is easier to work with. You definitely pay for that, though! If I ever relocate my ABS pump on the GTO, I'll be doing a full NiCu line conversion.
If you can take the ferrule ring off of a piece of pipe that it was attached to, the compression fitting wasn't used properly. If tightened properly the ferrule will indent itself into the pipe and be impossible to remove... or slip. The reason that they are illegal is that most people don't know how to properly attach them. And I agree with that.
Thanks for the info! I have a 2003 GP with the 3800, much like your car. Always warms my heart to see someone taking care of one these cars. Great vehicles.
@@SalemDoyle You're welcome! What's your take on pulley swaps? I'm N/A, but I'm curious what you've done with your GP. BTW, I also have an '07 GXP with the 5.3. That thing hauls.
@@SalemDoyle Nice. I've actually seen a GTP (slightly) out-accelerate a GXP with the right mods. You just have to be careful with knock and not overwhelm the transmission from what I've read about the S/C cars. Heat buildup can be a problem too, with the already hot-running all-iron 3800 having a heat producing compressor on the top of it.
The brake line flaring kits they loan at Autozone, O'Reilly's, and NAPA (same as the one in this vid) are not for steel lines, so if your car has steel lines, you will have to use a different flaring tool.
Although I understand you're talking about brass compression fittings they do in fact make stainless steel with a higher pressure rating than brass that will hold up. 👌
Great video Salem! Question. I need to repair rear brake lines and of course I'm going to use flare/union fittings. They will be a patches in the middle of the 2 rear brake circuits. 3/16 inch lines. I'm using the copper alloy line. Why would I use bubble flares vs. double inverted vs whatever else. Also, many of the couplers (union) fitting seem to reduce the size. In other words, the passage way in the union is a smaller circumference that the circumference of the brake line itself. How much will this matter? Any advice would help. thanks!
Compression fittings were meant for copper lines. never steel brake lines. That's why the lil barrels won't bite into the line. Good video and good info.
When I worked at Parker hydraulic fluid division..we had conducted a pressure test....steel line with a copper compression fitting.......250000 psi the line bursted....the compression fitting was like new
Have you ever has a metal brake line have play in it causing a front end clicking noise. And if so what can you do to repair it or do you have to replace?
I havent seen dot aproved ones. But if they are then i suppose you could use them. But flareing and creating a removable union is still,in my opinion, just as easy and better in the long run.
OUTSTANDING delivery, just get better lighting and a new camera-man . Thanks for stopping me from using a rubber hose and hose clamps, especially with a full size chevy express 3500 which weighs about a million pounds 😮
Is there a good flaring tool that you could recommend as all my flaring tools don't have the power to bubble it but pushes it out at the bottom AND yes I tighten all the way..
Good Info Salem! It make it look so easy! Heading up to O'Reilly's in a bit to get my brake lines and fittings. Thanks for sharing. Cheers from Motown.
Salem... Have a question about a 2000 Buick Regal that has antilock and traction control issues. Is there an easy way to replace the abs module and get it bled so that everything works as it should.... The only other videos I see all require a high end scan tool. Thanks for all your videos..
Hey man I just found your channel tonight and I just want you to know I really appreciate your videos and your hard work you really helping guys like me out I just bought a 2002 Pontiac Bonneville SSEI and even though it’s not a W body I’m sure a lot of this information is still applicable to my vehicle. Actually I’d like to ask you if your window regulator video on your 1997 GTP would be applicable to my rear window regulators on my 2002 SSEI because of course I have the same exact issue. Thank you for all of your help And I will continue to promote your channel from a friend and viewer from the greater north aka rust belt aka Michigan.
access for good tools for this have gotten cheap and readily available. A great choice (better choice) is available at amazon as the "Titan double flaring tool" cant recall exactly but I thingk about 35.00 dollars. I don't know if its available in all sizeds but it was available in 3/16 for my toyota tacoma.. Beats THE HELL out of the double wing nut style, not expensive, and can function in very confined areas. I've used both, I have no vested interest but in trying to help out.Take it for what its worth, but the amazon reviews will back me iup.
Steel compression holds just as good as the flares. The tubing will snap apart before the steel compression coupling will ever give away. One person has dimenstrated that and proved that the steel compression couplings are stronger then the tubing itself so your facts are totally wrong unless you're talking about the brass compression fittings in particular, the brass is a softer metal and not as strong. You can get the steel ones on Amazon
So i bought a new brake line for my 2000 chevy blazer but the brake line flare is too big for the new line attachment... Did i just get the wrong part which it doesn't look like I did or do I need to refare it with a new attachment for the new brake line?
i had this done 3 times bro ... not sure if im using compression fittings but i do know i bought new lines but did fittings based on how much the mechanic had in his mind he needed to cut
Great video Doyle. Very very professional presentation and production. If I didn't know better you got a team of professionals helping you from the local TV station. So great job.
My understanding all along has been that using a compression union for brake lines is unacceptable, dangerous, and even illegal in many states. Hence, using a doubled flared brake line is the best method to use. Nonetheless, would a high pressure compression union rated for 5,000 psi (Dorman part # 800-202) be perfectly safe and acceptable to use? Thank you!
As far as being legal or not I have no idea and I assume that he is 100% correct about that but almost every else he said about compression fitting is NOT correct. I worked for a testing company for 41 years and we tested compression verses flare fitting. Installed correctly there just as good as flare. These tests were performed with the same pressure on both types of fittings while exposing them to vibration testing. The problem is compression fitting can be under tightened and even worse over tightened. So proper tightening is absolutely critical. An under tightened flare will leak and its hard to over tighten without breaking it.
@@SalemDoyle uuuuggh I was afraid of this that. Which I need one anyway. Thanks for all the help when I have questions. Did you ever decide which route to take on your coilovers situation?
Of Houston pressure fittings on brake lines before never had a problem get them good and tight it does deformed the metal and you cannot remove the feral if you take it apart if you can remove the feral you haven't tightened it enough. That being said if you don't have experience with compression fittings you probably shouldn't try to use it on a brake line. I've been doing it for 30+ years and never had a problem
Excuse me I have some issues with my ABS module in my 95 buick riviera supercharged and I need some advice about repair or replacement ABS module? Thank you in advance sir
I bought a hydraulic clutch line And it doesn't look the same size inside as what came in from the factory and of course it leaks and then it scratched the end of my hard line
68 chevy rear brakeline under front window ( drain) pitted leak for sure replaced a length with double flair I HIGHLY HIGHLY RECOMEND NICKEL COPPER LINE OTHERWISE JUST TO HARD TO FLAIR DAMN NEAR IMPOSSIBLE TO GET A GOOD FIT STAINLESS IS JUST NOT WORKABLE I'M 72 BEEN THERE DONE THAT CHOW& GOOD MOTORING
@@SalemDoyle fluid level is good, emergency brake hasn't worked in years. I'm taking it to the shop, hoping it's just a sensor. My fingers are crossed. Thank you for the tips!
If you are crimping steel line it will be a nit hard, yes. You could take a small socket and extension to fit over the arm for more leverage if you need to.
great details and info. However for such a serious project I would use better video equipment and lighting to show the flare inside the coupler etc. Thank you though!!
I honestly cant say that I've ever been able to pull (slide) a ferrule (copper ball) off of any type of line that I've ever put one on.without either cutting the ferrule or the tube or pipe it was imbeded itno (not a friction fit) to get it off. A friction fitting could not be pulled apart by hand. Also a ferrule on a compression fitting would generaly be brass, not copper. A brass compresion fitting is capable of as much as 3000 psi. Brake pressure test guages only read as high as 1500-2000 psi. Its more of a vibration issue leading to a fractured line do to lack of support at the compression repair. An unsupported flair fitting could do the same thing over time. Hence the double flair and so on. Thats why all brake line connection points are solid mounts. Let me put a brass compression fitting on a steel line and lets see you slide the nut and ferrule off with your hands.
I've used compression fittings to fix my brakes multiple times and it hasn't failed me yet. You'll only loose either front or rear not all. Simply put brakes are overrated
