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The Rise of Craig Green ... and then London Fashion Week 

understitch,
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Craig Green is one of the biggest stars in menswear today, that's undeniable. But, he has somewhat been let down by the system that is supposed to uplift him. It wasn't inherently London Fashion Week's fault, initially they also were caught between a rock and a hard place. But their decision not to revert back to a Mens and Women's individualised fashion weeks, perhaps with a Non-Binary Day, limits the events quite significantly. Of course, I always want the best for London Fashion Week and for Craig Green, but given the history of London designers failing to keep up and the country's reputation of not properly funding it's textile industry, I'm always worried for our finest designers. Currently Craig Green is one of our top designers, both commercially in the niche luxury space and critically, so I do trust that he has a great team and they are making the right decisions.
Beauty Channel: / @underskinyt
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Unless otherwise obvious, photos in this video are from Getty Images or Alamy under their editorial terms used for non-commercial websites, blogs and social media posts illustrating matters of public interest.

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7 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 115   
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
"The first 500 people to use my link will get a 1 month free trial of Skillshare" skl.sh/understitch07241
@yesmarioo
@yesmarioo Месяц назад
I know nothing about fashion but your mini documentaries are outstanding. 10/10
@s90210h
@s90210h Месяц назад
97% of what I know of Fashion is from here
@AmberDempsey1234
@AmberDempsey1234 Месяц назад
If you like these style of videos, The Devil Wears Data does them too!
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Thank you so much Im glad that theyre so interesting even though youre not a fashion buff 🥰
@beardreview
@beardreview Месяц назад
Watching these documentaries you'll learn all you need to know
@yesmarioo
@yesmarioo Месяц назад
@@beardreview l’ve learned soo much and see fashion in a complete different way now. +the business insights too so good.
@dchang3631
@dchang3631 Месяц назад
The clothes still look fresh in photos but seeing videos of his clothes in motion… magnificent! Beautiful tailoring and draping.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I agree, a truly talented designer
@userx12342
@userx12342 Месяц назад
I think one thing about craig green is that it is still on the avant-garde spectrum which makes regular fashion enjoyers hesitant to purchase because it is difficult to incorporate into a regular wardrobe. even the lace tshirts are kind of 'out there'
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
But those jackets are so easy to incorporate, or the tshirts with the rope are too. He understands how to water down without losing the vision so well
@TheGrifhinx
@TheGrifhinx 13 дней назад
​@@understitchYT but for who tho, for men?
@thelxwedown
@thelxwedown Месяц назад
That padded jacket had fashion boys in a chokehold - I really feel like the industry failed Craig a little, hope to see him get back to the peak he deserves.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Mate I still want one!! Weirdly I think the industry had done him okay in terms of retail, but the promotional side has had the balll dropped. He couldve very easily been a major draw to LFWJune, but we heard nothing until the unannounced fashion show. Really stupid. Imagine if the V&A had a concurrent exhibition on CG while Somerset house has on the CJLoverboy one. Would be a massive draw for June/fashion tourism over the summer
@EXOL_1485
@EXOL_1485 Месяц назад
I was just looking for videos to watch while crocheting..perfect timing
@OfficialROZWBRAZEL
@OfficialROZWBRAZEL Месяц назад
is it harder than knitting?
@EXOL_1485
@EXOL_1485 Месяц назад
@@OfficialROZWBRAZEL yeah. Knitting requires only one kind of stitch, crochet has a bunch of stitches
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Perfect timing!
@natashacutmore7005
@natashacutmore7005 Месяц назад
I really enjoy your content- for someone that isn't knowledgable about fashion, I learn a lot from how you approach each designer, their business models and considerate application of hindsight.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
What a kind comment, thank you so much, I'm glad you enjoyed it so much
@GDLP9603
@GDLP9603 Месяц назад
I've loved Craig Green since his LCM days and bought some pieces from his earlier collections that I wear to this day. I wish him all the best! (Also, it's a shame Agi & Sam is no more. That era of London menswear was amazing.)
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Agi & Sam were so damn good!!! Damn golden days were golden
@user-hj1wp1dt2g
@user-hj1wp1dt2g Месяц назад
that ss15 nick knight shoot is still unbelievable
@photokunstler
@photokunstler Месяц назад
I am always in the closet, so to speak with Craig Green, I got turned onto him a few years back but the timing of COVID kinda fucked things up for him (and everyone else). He's got so much potential and I end up liking his work more after I read or hear the ethos of a collection. This 2025 SS collection he did was pretty interesting and still staying in his lane for design language. It's just really rough out there to be a biz owner and I commend him for sticking with it. I am for designers going out of season and showing on their own schedule, something I respect Fear of God for. It is truly exhausting to keep up with the fashion schedule in a constructive, yet stay environmentally conscious. I mean just think of all that waste that is created every season 4-6 times a year. Yikes! This was a great vid to really talk more about the biz side of his predicament. I'm still fascinated by Craig Green and will continue to check out what archived pieces I can find on 2nd hand/consignment. The edifice and construction pieces he does with his collections can be quite provocative, hopefully he will move on from these to keep his focus on the sellable clothes.
@skatingmermaid
@skatingmermaid Месяц назад
love the title!! and congrats for the sponsorship 💖
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Thank you 🥰🥰
@mdnghtppl0000
@mdnghtppl0000 Месяц назад
luv this guys work, thanks for collecting all this info!
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I’m so glad you liked it, thank you
@TJ-pc4hn
@TJ-pc4hn Месяц назад
Absolutely love the quality of your videos! Have you considered covering Bode?
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I would honestly love to cover Bode 🙌
@TJ-pc4hn
@TJ-pc4hn Месяц назад
@@understitchYT please do, I’d love to hear your thoughts on what they’ve been creating!😍
@gittefeingeist9720
@gittefeingeist9720 Месяц назад
I find his work so incredibly exciting
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
So do I honestly, he’s a great designer
@markbailey5393
@markbailey5393 Месяц назад
I think if you want the government to fund fashion, then the designers should make their collections in the uk. Otherwise you are investing in other countries. Great video! Love Craig Green.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
A lot of v small designers make their collections in-house, because they or their team make it themselves, but for mid-size small brands and up we don’t really have the infrastructure in the UK anymore, most of that is abroad since the UK basically chased out the industry in the late 70s and early 80s. This is what McQueen was fighting about for so long, he realised just how unfair the system was and how the government was almost self sabotaging one of their most money making industries, and he didn’t understand why. Nowadays there’s little infrastructure left and there is better, cheaper production elsewhere. There are a few reasons to make in the UK now.
@markbailey5393
@markbailey5393 Месяц назад
@understitchYT I understand that, but it comes down to greed. Chasing that extra penny.
@doedelbroesel3239
@doedelbroesel3239 Месяц назад
Don’t quite get why we still have that stupid separation of women and men collection as a schedule. The labels can do binary collection, nothing wrong with that, but just show same at the same schedule. It’s easier for guest, industry and cheaper…
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
A few reasons, shops are mostly binary still, better for mens vs womens buyers, because fashion week is already too long, because timing of factory production of samples, because consumers consume on the binary mostly. Theres a lot of reasons tbh and its often frustrating for all. NB really should have its own day so that they can concentrate interest. Better for press, better for buyers who are actively buying NB anyway and this way it actually would be cheaper and all would know when to come and go instead of being present for a few sporadic shows over a week of differently targeted shows
@user-hj1wp1dt2g
@user-hj1wp1dt2g Месяц назад
yesss been looking forward to this one
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
You gave good taste 🙌
@michael_galicia
@michael_galicia Месяц назад
I'm still rocking my Moncler 5 Genius jacket. ♥
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
God I am so jealous
@bigwildonion
@bigwildonion Месяц назад
Much love and respect for these designs! If Craig Green is hobbled by the way industry works, it is yet another reason to challenge and rethink the whole thing. Thank you for your insights on marketing and business, and their intersection with design and creativity. You provide so much clarity, and raise important questions.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I totally agree. That is one thing Im proud of LFW for is trying new things and trying to do it differently. It doesn't always hit well, such as in the recent case, but it's nice to know its creative to its core. On to the next iteration
@user-hj1wp1dt2g
@user-hj1wp1dt2g Месяц назад
seeing all those collections and hearing those names (Astrid Andersen, agi &sam etc) is so strangely nostalgic, I was so obsessed back then, so young and full of hope 😂 not to say im not still hopeful about fashion now, just with a healthy added dose of cynicism
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I wouldve bought it all if I had the money. In hindsight probably for the best that I didnt, but I was just so obsessed
@Michael-xi9nb
@Michael-xi9nb Месяц назад
I have a few items of his that I purchased from sample sales, including a shoelace t-shirt which I wear all the time.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I could not be more jealous! So I guess he did do sample sales then, I absolutely cannot believe I missed them, I followed his work religiously for so many years
@Michael-xi9nb
@Michael-xi9nb Месяц назад
@@understitchYT They usually hold it at the Truman Brewery around Nov/Dec. I also got some trainers from the Adidas collab for a pretty reasonable price.
@rewghob
@rewghob Месяц назад
Do the Rise and Fall of Meadham Kirchoff. I remember one of them was interviewed for iDs channel and said the collection ended up locked up in their old studio. I saw one of their shows at LFW. Shame, they folded and it looked like a painful split.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I wonder if enough people will click tbh
@yvonne3902
@yvonne3902 Месяц назад
I really want to get more into understanding fashion and your channel is so accessible!! loved this and will promptly be binging
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
That makes me so happy to hear 🥰 if you want recommendations, Im really proud of the Paco Rabanne, Vionnet and Met Gala Videos. And all three of my biographies are such a labour of love too that Im so proud of them 🥰
@yvonne3902
@yvonne3902 Месяц назад
@@understitchYT I'll be visiting them first, thank you very much for the recs!!
@Cat-tastrophee
@Cat-tastrophee Месяц назад
Initially I was put off by the pank headpieces and seemingly unremarkable wearable elements, but once I got his vision, I fell in love with Craig Green's designs. Contrasting highbrow art with lowbrow manual labor is brilliant, and he has a nice range of very avant-garde conceptual pieces to wearable staples. I hope the recent setbacks are mere hiccups in a long and illustrious career
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I do hope so, it doesn’t really seem that this setback are his fault, it just seems like a bit of a series of unfortunate events. As long as they can keep going, I don’t doubt that they will be able to recover.
@Viviano_Magami
@Viviano_Magami Месяц назад
Please do Emanuel Ungaro
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Such a great idea
@paddyolten4031
@paddyolten4031 Месяц назад
This is such another amazing video. I learnt a lot. Thank you. Craig Green has always been a mysterious brand for me as his style is not really my cup of tea but I have been seeing his garments in every top retailers in London. Finally, I really wish London Fashion Week could revise back to its old days. There are so many great British designers now working for the French/Italian fashion houses which is very very sad. Also, Berlin fashion week is also now a competitor!
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I agree that I missed the old one and fashion week, there’s nothing really exciting at the moment. At least not in the way McQueen was
@paddyolten4031
@paddyolten4031 Месяц назад
@@understitchYT we all miss Lee ❤️
@katemarlor1816
@katemarlor1816 Месяц назад
So close to 100k, congrats! Love your vids!
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
You have 500 friends? 🤣
@bluebell1571
@bluebell1571 Месяц назад
Love your content but small correction...the pandemic isn't over. I know so many people in the industry in NYC that are sick as of this week. And yes, no one is hospitalized, but many are losing out on gigs or going to set sick and potentially making even more people sick now and also there's the potential of long covid. We're not out of the water and I wish the industry would go back to being more careful on set and during show weeks.
@freshestmhizha
@freshestmhizha Месяц назад
Real journalism is back 👏🏿
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
🤌
@13579zcbm
@13579zcbm Месяц назад
Personally for me his designs and silhouettes are too formulaic and although the project loud, they’re a bit behind with all the grungey y2k archival vibe or the pure minimalistic market driven brands
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
But thats all about perspective. Is it repetitive or is it classic? "A rich man's a thief or philanthropist. Is one a crusader or ruthless invader? It's all in which label is able to persist"
@Michael-xi9nb
@Michael-xi9nb Месяц назад
Also at 11:16: did anyone else notice that Rita Ora went in for a kiss and he snubbed her? lol.
@Jerrard1983
@Jerrard1983 Месяц назад
1sr person here…love you friend!!
@Sssssssssssssandy
@Sssssssssssssandy Месяц назад
Nope
@OfficialROZWBRAZEL
@OfficialROZWBRAZEL Месяц назад
⁠@@Sssssssssssssandyno they’re not the first, or no you don’t think they like them?
@Sssssssssssssandy
@Sssssssssssssandy Месяц назад
@@OfficialROZWBRAZEL they’re not the first
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Love you too (who wouldnt?) 🤍
@JohnSmith-fe1id
@JohnSmith-fe1id Месяц назад
Great video, thank you for this! Crazy to see the actual financials of the brand, did I get it right that they’re only netting like ~$300k per year? That seems so low! But I’m out of the loop for fashion finances I guess!
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Well, their profit and loss accounts are not included in their filings, but it seems that way yeah. To be fair, its a small business in fashion that, I think, is still wholly owned by the founder, so imo it's commendable
@JohnSmith-fe1id
@JohnSmith-fe1id Месяц назад
@@understitchYT true, definitely huge respect, I only brought it up since I thought it’s funny, I never really thought about the finances of a brand Craig’s size. To me, without thinking about it, they seemed massive, I just assumed they’re making tens of millions of profit from luxury margins, but it’s eye-opening to see that’s not always the case.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
@@JohnSmith-fe1id Its very very rarely the case, fashion is ridiculously hard to profit from truly and considering people are overly spoilt with low prices today, in geenral clothes are not fairly priced because they cannot sell at what would be sustainable for the business. We have quite a damaged consumer society when it comes to clothing consumption and unfortunately its these smaller brands that take the brunt of that. Though, what's arguably worse is that most people, even those actively into fashion, don't know because theres no transparency in the industry
@michaelzimmer37
@michaelzimmer37 Месяц назад
I went crazy for Craig Green in SS15. Unfortunately I was able to buy any of it. I live in Iowa. Not a hotbed of fashion retailing. The next season AW15 I acquired 5 items from the collection, and pretty much each season following I picked up a few more pieces depending on my interest. I became less interested in Craig Green when what was shown on the runway stopped matching what was sold. An example of this was the sweaters from AW18. What was shown was so desirable, what was sold was sad. Since then I have purchased less Craig Green because he is not reliable. I get my heart set on what was shown and only for that item to not be produced. I have purchased a few of the Adidas shoes. Love them. Please do Cottweiler! I loved them. I have like 50 articles of clothing from them. Half from AW16. I went way over my clothing budget that season.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I’m so jealous you have so much early Craig Green. But Yeah, the retail selection is often quite different for his brand, I have noticed that myself. However, that’s obviously because what goes into the store is largely the core collection just honestly because thats what people buy. I think that is good from a business perspective, but it would be nice if there was some store that did a very small run of the more conceptual pieces, I just know that from a monetary perspective it won’t happen, there are a business after all and making loss leaders like that when they’re so small, it’s just not the most advisable thing. Honestly, I think your best bet is to wait for a sample sale, maybe they will have something then, but I don’t see it happening for the regular public like you and me just because they don’t even have their shows on the schedule anymore, I reckon if they did it, it would be for friends and family, but that’s just my assumption
@markjohnson2257
@markjohnson2257 Месяц назад
Great and extensively researched video as usual ❤❤❤. I love Craig Green!!! It's unfortunate that London doesn't have the infrastructure to support it's young designers. There was a discussion on ShowStudio with Karen Binns and another gentleman discussing how difficult it is for new designers to get support and exposure.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Exposure I think is a huge problem these days, theres just so much noise its hard to break through. Also so many people want their own brands nowadays and many skip the time in industry to make connections, to develop under the radar and to learn the ins and outs which doesnt serve them well down the line and ends up that the people one parental coin are the ones that manage to survive
@tzegoh333
@tzegoh333 26 дней назад
TBH, London Fashion Week is only good at promoting young designers, not so much when these young designers are no longer young i.e. around 10 years after their debut.
@OfficialROZWBRAZEL
@OfficialROZWBRAZEL Месяц назад
Fka twigs is on that thumbnail twice 👍
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Hahahha I wondwred if anyone would notice 🤣
@GK-up6xz
@GK-up6xz Месяц назад
Doublet please, PLEASE! ! !
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
I really have to, but I keep searching and doublet just doesnt get searched much at all (which is a crime)
@GK-up6xz
@GK-up6xz Месяц назад
@@understitchYT I agree. I live in Tokyo and even here they’re a mystery 🥲
@nightrider12soul
@nightrider12soul Месяц назад
Who wore those cloths.they look like avant guard sculptures. No way I would were them. 😊
@gordonw4542
@gordonw4542 Месяц назад
Said good bye to Craig Green now he got a teaching position . Teaching the second most stressful job there is. Airline pilot is the first. I know this from personal experiences. Craig will never come back to fashion..
@callieadams3671
@callieadams3671 Месяц назад
Maybe it's just me but these clothes look so bizarre to me... How are men supposed to wear that in day to day wear?? I understand its fashion but its out there ...
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
The retail offering is the same, but separated its quite wearable. Simple trousers and lightly padded jackets. I really recommend looking them up online to look if youre interested
@w.urlitzer1869
@w.urlitzer1869 Месяц назад
first time I heard of him.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Thats okay, as long as you liked the video 🥰
@Francesca_Evergreen
@Francesca_Evergreen Месяц назад
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
🤍
@corpojp6624
@corpojp6624 Месяц назад
am not aware of this guy but 250Euros for a Tshirt? Seriously?
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Fashion isnt cheap and would you believe it, its very hard for brands to make a really good profit even at those prices
@jordanbell7132
@jordanbell7132 Месяц назад
what a well done video
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Thank you so much 🙌
@avskardi
@avskardi Месяц назад
London FW Tune? 🧐
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
A tune in june
@gabrielvelea5785
@gabrielvelea5785 Месяц назад
apart from benefiting from the beautiful footage that traces back Craig Green's career, the doc slips into redundant statistics (who bloody cares about the 'graphs of relevance' that your arguments are being stuffed with, after all?), constructed from a sadly very square vantage point. A much harder task would've been to deconstruct Green's collections, disentangle their references and relate to whatever cultural or historical context they may pertain to. Keep keeping an eye on the figures though, it does you good.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
Thanks for the feedback. The video watch time isnt bad at all, but Ill definitely take what you said into account, Im sure more people feel this way so thank you for letting me know such constructive advice
@slash364
@slash364 Месяц назад
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAa
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
BBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBBb
@janusconner3710
@janusconner3710 Месяц назад
Never heard of ya. Sorry, not sorry but, if you got the goods I'm buying.
@janusconner3710
@janusconner3710 Месяц назад
Janus, it appears he's very much akin to Jonathan Anderson...talent wise.
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
If youre a product-focused consumer then Craig Green is a brand youre likely to pick up in store. A bit like Kiko Kostadinov in that way, the product itself is surprisingly strong
@Joe-gf6vn
@Joe-gf6vn Месяц назад
@janusconner3710 Why are you talking to yourself?
@TheRealMcCoyAndChipsAhoy
@TheRealMcCoyAndChipsAhoy Месяц назад
@understitchYT
@understitchYT Месяц назад
🤍
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