probably wont unless you have a 3000 watt inverter. I have a Simder 200 amp and it doesn't play nice with even a 2000 watt at 120 amps at the stick. When i added a 10 gage generator wire to it, new stinger and ground clamp and that thing sings right along at even 140 amps( on a 220 volt or a 120 volt, 30 amp RV wall socket) and it was only 70 bucks. Even with the original shitty stinger and ground clamp on a 15 amp wall socket and it worked pretty well at 140 amps just would trip breakers. Also it weighs like 5 pounds tops. Best part is.....80% duty cycle. This thing in the vid is pretty shitty lol
If it was quality, maybe... But - Car battery welder leads would outweld this gadget, and can run off multiples if needed. They don't error out or crap out in the damp/dirt of the trail., and you can use them to jumpstart with too.
Through experienced eyes, this tiny welder *is* working to specs, such as they are. Most problems you had are operator error or misinterpretation. 1) It's perfectly normal for any welder to shut off when it reaches max operating temperature because it's operated above 50% current rating. The time it can be operated after cool-down is called it's duty cycle, and is given in the user manual. 2) It was sticking, hard starting and cutting in-and-out because you were not running adequate current for the rods you used. The label on the rods tells you the current range required. You can turn it up to that range, or you can buy thinner rods that need less current, and/or you can buy rods that are less fussy and better behaved. 3) Based on the intermittent frying sound, I'd conclude you were running it like it was MIG wire. With the right rods and currents, you need to keep the arc smaller/closer/tighter than 1/4 inch or 5mm. 4) Learn what a good arc sounds like. If it sounds like frying bacon, keep going. If it *smells* like frying bacon, stop and take a break -- your on fire.
"If it sounds like frying bacon, keep going. If it smells like frying bacon, stop and take a break -- your on fire." My grandpa always said the same thing.. and he was right! You are 100 percent correct in what you say here. Not nearly enough amperes for the rods he was running. but also.. It appears the rod quality was POOR.
When I used to do a lot of off roading I carried some sticks, a cheapie handheld visor and some spare jumper cables to make an improvised DC welder I could run off of both batteries in my truck. I used it few times in field once to fix a hitch, modify my homemade barbecue grill made from rebar and I welded a buddy's tie rod back together and he actually made it back to town and to a mechanic before it failed as he pulled into the parking lot. All bubblegum welds but they held up good enough. That would probably be good for camping and off roading if you typically take a generator with you. I usually just watch these and move on but I had to click the like on this one since you told me to go fornicate myself. :)
@@MeltinMetalAnthony its like most things , if you need 2500w. buy a 3500w geni.. if that will run 2.0ish,mm rods at 140 /135,,continuas, for a 3'' weld.. decent weld,, its worth it.. i scaled down to an inverter.. mig.. 180 amp.. but they need 15amp plug. outlet.240v, ausie.. still seems like 2 batts is the go.. last trail welder i looked at was 1k..
i think the reason for the error code was the poor thing overheated due to its duty cycle. however im impressed. technology is improving and i love seeing it do so. 1/8" or 3/16" thick material is all i need to weld and the projects are small. ive always had to deal with subbing out tasks and pay handsomely for it, this little thing i wouldnt mind.
If you want a small welder I'd recomend a synoxtmex mini it's about the size of a toaster and runs for ages on 120v (its over built to run on 220 volt)I hevent had it had to take a break at all and I got mine for 95$usd if you include the 3 year warranty works great (it only runs up to 91 amps on 120 volt) also comes with everything but the mask sucks it's not digital but what can I say lol
It seems to me you hit the duty cycle limit when you were running at 140 amps, maybe 5 or 10% at full power, means you gotta run the smallest rods you can find. I don't know why they went with the handheld power supply, yeah it's small... for a power supply but still adds too much bulk to the stinger. A separate power supply and short stinger lead is far superior... in my mind. -Journeyman welder/fabricator with 29 years in the trade.
@@cdrom1070 For a machine like this, a short ground and a short stinger is all that would be required. They could be attached even... still nothing to lose, beats trying to get into a tight spot with that oversized stinger. As many have noted the only real utility for a machine like this is for on the spot emergency repairs, and in alot of thos cases you are dealing with tight spaces. In addition the seperate leads, if unplugable, allows for reversing the polarity and you can run a more varied rod selection.
I enjoy using 7014, smooth like 7018 but easier to weld like 6013. Plus the iron flux adds to the deposition rate. It’s great for tacking and restarts better then 7018 since it doesn’t have that molten glob on that tip.
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If the electrode is negative then it's running straight polarity correct? If so the only Rod I know that run straight polarity is a 6012 and it is used for Sheet Metal
With a strong enough inverter or a generator, it might be handy to keep on a trail toy. Could be handy to fix broken components to get back to the parking lot.
One big problem Not enough striking arc voltage, And the duty cycle is to low, that is why it shut off and you have to reset. And for starting your arc, try inclining the rod more towards parallel to the plane of the weld, Makes for easier starting
now that was pretty cool Antony I wish they had something like that when I was breaking out back in the early 70s it would come in real handy looks like you a rocker seen zeppelin in 76 in baton rouge la. keep on welding
@@tacklebox6239 so you want ppl to think ur a contractor or ur brilliant because you figured out that time is money & ur ahead of the game because you know this & know one else will ever figure it out?
@@tacklebox6239 so a peasant is below you is what it sounds like & I apologize because I know I’m just a average peasant at best. I feel privileged to be reading a reply from the elite club of engineers & I hope you can represent ur fine group better than most that have worked under me while I was down in Australia years ago correcting all the mistakes they made during the Eastern Pipeline Alliance & Western Corridor Recycled Water Project & a few other projects around the world such as the worlds largest water injection plant over around Riyadh Saudi & a few more minor projects they let a peasant like myself run or I mean be a part of & hope to see you & ur work on some important projects around the world & will be easy to spot you with the best of the best thank you!
I just ordered one of these from Amazon. Got a few small repairs to do on the floors of a truck. I figured I’d try it out, and if it don’t work I can send it back. I see this thing in a lot of videos. If it works it’ll make my life easier as far as these repairs…
Just happen to stumble upon M.M.A's Y.T Channel ... This guy is legendary!!! Love the honest, actual real ,no B.S approach , refreshing to hear the man speak unfiltered ,truthful with what appears to me , no sign of any Fucks to give in sight... Great channel!!
I always keep 7014 on my truck. Because of the iron in the flux, it’s the best tack rod in the world because it restarts so easy. I also use it when I need to fill in large gaps in thinner metal. A bit unconventional the way I use it but I’ll run 1/8 inch 7014 but only at like 60 amps. Really just to fill in a gap good enough to hold a strong puddle of 7018 afterwards. Just be aware of slag inclusion. Sometimes all have to peck a line of welds to fill in a gap and it will look filled in. Then I’ll chip the Scag and realize the whole weld was slag. Doesn’t happen all the time. Just some times for whatever reason. Good rod though. If anything, just for tacking things up.
I shoved 4 foot piece of copper I had from an old ground wire right into where the rod goes and I took a clamp from a broken jump box and made a little electrode holder. It is so much better than trying to hold steady with that huge drill
That's exactly what I was thinking. I still can't figure out why they chose to use the drill style setup. Maybe power loss in a lead? I just know that holding a regular gun up under a vehicle in awkward positions gets tiring. I would probably be cussing that thing if I had to hold up the entire power supply for any length of time. It's an interesting concept, I will say that.
that thing is actually amazing, whoever designed that, legends. yeah its not an amazing welder that will replace everything but on the road, or especially out in the field, that would come incredibly useful
I just ordered a copy of this for $60 to use for sheared hardware. Basically a tiny weld from sheared bolts to a free nut so I can back the sheared hardware out. Bet it works 100000x better than 3 hours of drilling and $40 in drill bits.
Yeah... For a unit that size, at 140 amps, you're truly maxing out the duty cycle. I'm sure that unit has less than a 25% duty cycle when running at full power output. That's the major downfall of cheap, self-contained welders like that: *NO DUTY CYCLE* - a.k.a. If you're planning on welding continuously, with a 25% duty cycle... You'll be welding 25% of the time & waiting 75% of the time for the electronics to cool down. - Make sure you pay attention to the rated duty cycles when purchasing welders!!
MM77 Approved 👍🏼👍🏼………… good review, light duty backup. BTW, I wish you would stop tempting me with the eye candy in the background!!! A long and low Shovel head ? Forget the mini welder!!!LOL!!
I bet it wouldn't be too hard to make an adapter for your stinger to run it electrode positive unless the electronics won't let it. At the very least you could attach a normal stinger so it wouldn't be as awkward.
I guarantee that would be a helva conversation piece if you busted that out on a job. Guys would be fully trippin' out. Roll up to the work site on a moped, too. "Yeah man, that's my welding rig. Everything's micro electronics now."
If the plastic markings are to be believed, part of the problem (aside that most super cheapie welders only put out 90A on 120V/20A circuit, regardless) is that it is configured for DCEN. There is a marking at the bottom "+", so for some reason they have the work clamp as positive, and generally speaking it should be the other way around. If one could switch the leads internally to make it DCEP like any other respectable stick welder, it might run on. I have a cheapie Tooliom 135S that is only slightly bigger because it has a traditional case, but I bet the internals are the same. ~90-95A on a dedicated 120V/20A circuit, and 115A on a 240V outlet (it is dual voltage).
Straight up guy with a straight up review, I recently got myself a lincoln pak 100, just uses flux core but runs off of 110, welded some 3/4 plates and it melted the damn welds in like it was nothen. Best machine iv owned so far!
I run .023 which is far better for thin stock (but will of course weld thicker) and the first thing I did was a MIG conversion (don't buy the kit, various videos include parts lists) so I could escape flux core. If you like FCAW you will love shielding gas. Mine has a perfectly good arc (I've multiple industrial MIGs too) and the .023" wire is a joy to run.
I didn't expect much more than globby snotty welds or a possible fire, so I'm impressed with that. And it worked, for small jobs it seems like it'll do, and small enough you can bring it out into the field and run it off a generator for quick fixes. This isn't even $200, and it did the job.
🤣 your closing just won a subscriber ! Your honest review and tell it like it is attitude is why we need so we know should we buy it or just say f**k it . Hey m your a real welder , you’ll tell,it like it is . I’m a weld when I need to , so I’m NOT a real welder , like you . That being said , this impact shaped obviously low budget duty cycle is meant for an attempt at making ergonomic and budget all in one to make some sales . Ok , maybe it can work for someone who has some kind of welding experience and can make use of it for quick work ? Longevity will ultimately decide if pulling the trigger on this is even worth it . I own two harbor freight welders , like a lot of diy’ers . Got a 90 amp ( remember those ? ) and the discontinued 180 MiG , I’ve yet to use . Got that in 2017 Labor Day close out .saved $ on that . I doubt we will ever see a DCEP version in that little machine since building one with an inverter will,increase cost and weight and there’s likely a bunch of other compact machines that would make more sense to buy / use than this creation . Will say , it will sell on its eye candy thing as people like hand held ergonomic tools . Hope you will get some time on this just to see if it’s got any use in a welders hands and I pray it doesn’t cause any harm to you any more than smoke and feeling heat in your hands which will prompt you to drop it and run for a fire extinguisher and the breaker panel . I do hope however that they keep throwing the freebies at you so you can abuse the sh*t out of them and give us an honest review in your own words , like you do , so we can see it and decide , is it even worth a f**k . Stay safe , welding is hazardous enough . Thanks for your review and keeping it real 👍
Weight becomes irrelevant if you attach a ~4 gauge welding cable to the negative, and whatever you want on the other end. Essentially it's the power source only maybe clipped to you belt? Could also kluge up a MiG gun with flux core, or shield gas, or a TiG torch obviously scratch start.
that would be great with a small generator out in the field to fix stuff on the side of the road. 130amps for a dc stick .. the price is a little high compared to the inverter clones.. i bought a mini 200amp inverter clone new for 30 bucks off banggood. but had no wiring. all in i was at 100.00 bucks. It lasted a week being moved around constantly. Shorted out blew up.. great review
I got really excited when I thought it was a battery powered welder the size of an impact driver. Sure the battery capacity would only be enough for a rod of two but that would be really handy when you need to do a simple repair and don’t have a power source nearby
I could see it handy to use extension cord to reach something inside, for a "simple" repair with couple rods, versus bringing heavier welder in for a 15 min repair.
DUDE! i just watched a video from diesel brothers and they were showing off that anchor inverter. He said it's 1500 Watt. I wonder if that would be enough to run this welder for a little while. If so that would be a really light & compact trail repair kit!
I have, probably, the worst of the Harbor Freight invertor welders, good for a supposed 90 Amps, but DCEN/DCEP. I just stick with1/16th" rods and I do alright in the 1/8th to 3/16ths range. As you intimated, this could use some development before even I would buy one.
Bad design, holding the ground cable, power cable, and stinger all together is stupid. Shrink it down to a box and have a separate cable coming out for stinger
Looks good as a very portable welder. The main thing I don't like is you are holding the whole weight and length of it as you work. Harder to get arc started and control.
@@MeltinMetalAnthony that is a cool little machine......I think you were surpassing it's duty cycle a few times......try using some 6011 and see what that does.....great for thin material on DC- and it builds up more metal and you can still whip it.....let us know how that works Paul
The yes welder is junk and to all those channels who promoted it shame on you . You a good dude for not selling out like the . I reviewed the yes welder and handed them their arss
Love how the "engineers" decided to have cords coming out both ends. Surprised they didnt have one popping out the top just to be even more cumbersome and stupid.
@@kmoecub The fact that more than one person saw that thing and let it go out the door with a company logo on it is the issue. Couldn't care less which title you'd like to use. Its a ridiculous cord design and they should all be ashamed.
@@Bhartrampf &,you need to have a dc dc charger. not sure if a smart alt will fully charge them. they need 14.5v. or they sht.. less useable volts, but last longer than acid. solar pnl is the go.150w, ish..i have 190w solar pnl, 3500w inv. 100 amp agm..
@@harrywalker5836 any alt over 100 amps charges them really good with a battery isolator, just like for a camper. I have used both and you are correct that the acid battery doesn't last as long, but with two in a series, I have welded up a 20' trailer with it. It can also be hooked to a ac/dc shop welder and a argon tank. pretty useful spool gun.
Your welding ability is moderate using stick so going with that in mind your welds where not bad so the little machine would certainly come in handy for remote places that normally would be a nightmare getting a full machine to but I would be adding a cable with an electrode holder to the gun instead of holding that gun up every weld
Mmmmm don’t know what to think about that unit pretty bizarre I’m sure it would get someone out of a jam though Keep up the great vids love the hilarious outro lol gfy bahaha Cheers from Nova Scotia
She's dead Jim..... try the power switch....I'm a doctor, not a phaser-welder repairman! Call Scotty, it needs a miracle worker.... Bet it's a joy in any confined space.
it would be hard to get used to holding it like a drill. Looks like it does not have hot start built in, which is very helpful for the novice welder it appears to be designed for.
Ideal for emergency offroad repairs...good thing to have in your kit. You brake a steering mount on the trail, and this little welder will be a god send...trust me I know.
Most of the AMAZON comments are using it for plastic welding. Wonder why Harbor Freight hasn't come up with something like it? Its on my wish list now.
okay. That wasn't so bad. might be perfect for the handyman or just to having a garage if you need a welder in a pinch. Of course anything bigger than quarter inch and you're going to need a bigger boat. but for what it is, I suppose I was a bit impressed. I'm still learning. And I learned a little bit today. Thanks
I'm always tacking things at the bench for later finish welding with the Big Rig (300 amp inverter). So, I picked up the little Harbor Freight shoebox inverter 120 volt stick welder second-hand off Craigslist. Hard to go wrong for $30? The smaller cable and lead make for a far better feel and control when doing 1/16" rod. The form factor of the gun in the video looks to be doplic as hell. I'll stick with the shoebox HF example with traditional Dinse-connected leads.
your probably right, but this thing is a stepping stone to something much better I feel like. if they made it a different shape and DCEP it would be a lot more useful. im sure its coming
I have a 110v inverter stick welder from harbor freight. it was under 100$, but has normal leads no need to hold the entire machine in your hand performance looks to be about the same, need to run thin rod at high power for it to run "well"
