The Spring Bow! Like a crossbow just with springs Pt.1 

When it comes to BB and arrow launchers, we all spend our lives climbing the mountain of trial, error, experimentation, discovery and failure, only to finally reach the summit and find Jeorg already sitting at the top, welcoming us to his slingshot channel.

Regarding the projectile speed, you might not need to add more springs. Acceleration is the change in velocity divided by the change in time. Therefore, you might want to pull the springs even further back and that might increase the tension by a ratio greater than the added distance of travel, making the time more efficient. Another idea that goes along with this is that the projectile can be given less momentum but faster velocity by varying the weight of the projectile vs the power of the springs. Consider also the air friction and how it would affect a smaller vs larger projectile and determine the sweet spot in momentum vs effective range.

Great minds think alike. Yours is very similar to the one I built about a year ago. However, I used an "X" configuration front and back instead of limbs. This made the whole thing a lot more compact, reduced the torque on the limbs and reduced drag. I also used softer springs and a much longer draw with a modified speargun trigger. I put a sacrificial teflon washer where the plunger strikes the end of the tube which reduced noise considerably. I fire ball bearings, paintballs, darts/ mini crossbow bolts and wads of compressed rock salt. I won't go into the lethality but the local ferals don't big up my vege garden anymore. I'm looking forward to seeing your modifications.

🤣🤣Мы типо такого в детстве делали по солдатикам стрелять)) а чтоб по коробке или бутылке с поджига бум)) а это у них прям круть)))🤣🤣🤣

The cult of the archer lives on forever!!

That is awesome and looks like tons of fun. The noise from the Springs i would stretch them spray a very light coat of rubberized coating as a sound dampener. Takecare and keep safe

1.Make it good looking 2.Make it more powerful than before 3.Modifie it 4.Make a long range scope on the top of it 5.Make it effective 6.Make it deadly

I tripped over this video by accident and haven't checked for part 2 yet. Springs may be more efficient than a bow- after you shoot an arrow the bow is still under tension (keeps the string from falling off) but springs can go completely slack. However, springs don't release their energy linearly like bows (more or less) do- springs exert a lot of force right when released and then taper off. That means you get a constantly *decreasing* acceleration force on the ball bearing- it may actually outrun the piston on the way down the cylinder, so you don't actually recover all the energy from the springs. Heavier ball (lead rather than steel) would help that. I'd add little nubs to the crossbars that hold the springs rather than cut notches which could introduce weak spots. You might benefit from more practice with firearms (shotgun bigger than 20 ga but smaller than 12 ga I'd say)- you need to lean into the stock to prevent wasting energy on recoil. Watch the slo-mo at around 15:11. The stock should not slam back like that. To really see the difference, brace the springbow against a wall or something else solid and fire it at a cardboard box again. Years ago I thought about building a springbow with a single motorcycle front end spring but never get around to it. I'm thrilled to see someone not screwing around and actually building something. You've already done far better than I ever did, or likely will.

Hi Dan, I’m thinking you want to reduce friction between the blunger and barrel as much as possible. My first thought was to simply lubricate the plunger and barrel but as you mentioned, the slop between the plunger and barrel may be creating friction by the plungers angle so you would do well to tighten that up....without adding to the friction. Using "o" rings would likely add more friction to the plunger and barrel movement.....unless you use something like an acetal (polyacetal) sleeve in the barrel or acetal rings at either end of the plunger so that it both lubricates the plunger movement and takes any slop out of the plunger/barrel relationship. Using a larger bearing would likely add a level of air pressure from the wrong end and reduce performance, the tighter projectile idea works well where it needs to build upon pressure from behind to perform - ie normal firearms, spud guns etc.

I like the concept but as a severely disabled veteran I could not do it if I could get prefab items I’d surly give it a shot. Your very good at what you do. Semper Fi, Doc

That's a cool build. Looks like something that belongs in the fallout universe

Blacksmithing and archery,two of my favorite hobbies,looking forward to forged limbs version, nice prototype ,thanks.

The shorter the draw, the more power is required to achieve speed. Avg. crossbow with 15 inch draw capable of approx 200 fps is going to be 150# - 180# and a 400 gram arrow. With your setup it looks like effectively a 10 inch draw. Will need to increase power to get more speed, or increase total draw length, or reduce ammo weight. Using your setup, honing both barrel and piston to high polish will also help. Piston should be shaped like a valve so only the front actually contacts the barrel. Instead of a nut, use a delrin washer for the stop. A delrin washer will last longer, take more abuse, and will be easier to replace. The reinforcing sideplates is a very good idea. Might also consider a small magnet on the front of the piston to hold the bearing ball lightly. And collaboration with Jorge on the Slingshot Channel would be an excellent idea. He, also, tries out various ideas for bows, crossbows, slingshots, swords, etc., etc., etc. He has even made a magazine for a bow and arrow that works just by drawing the string back. Touch base with him. I think you'd really enjoy bouncing ideas off each other.

Dan interesting project. Good advice below. My contribution to the discussion would be: 1. Use brass pipe with a small steel plug at the fighting end. 2. Tighter tolerance to concentrate energy to the projectile. 3. Polish the inside of the barrel. Wooden dowel on a drill, a wee split in other end to slide in & hold some emery, rap around to tidy fit, a little light oil like heating oil and push up and down with the drill running; reduce grits. Finish with a some gun cleaning cloth & "Autosol" cream, running on the drill. 4. Lube with graphite or something that won't collect dirt. 5. Projectiles: try bits of wooden dowel, acorns, 6. What about replacing the springs with catapult rubber & rap it 2 or 3 times around the holding arms your springs are on. Just some thought that I haven't tested but think would improve the system. If all that fails, you could go high tech like my son did, make an air chamber with a plumbers gas valve & connected to your barrel. Fill with your air compressor. Point it away from anything that can rebound. Fire & you will be completely amazed, power & distance. It will hurt or injure someone if it hit them. Crazy I know but incredibly 😂😂. I'll stop there before I start talking about black powder & get you jailed. 🤔🤔🙄. Can't wait to see your modifications. Regards, Hugo Dale.

Love to see the mods as well as testing your ideas with this spring bow.👍👍

I'm not sure how technical you would want to go with you ball bearing launcher, but it looks like you are off to a good start. The weight of the moving parts is an issue. The back spring arm holder could be lighter but you would lose strength. You could try a split cylinder that the back spring arm would slide along to eliminate travel wobble keeping everything in line from release to the end of travel. But all in all it looks like a fun project. I like these kind of projects, the process of figuring everything out from scratch and refining and tweaking to get to the point that you're satisfied with it. It's just for fun anyway. To me that's what being a blacksmith or a craftsman is about.

Happy to hear from you again Dan!

As mentioned Joerg Sprave and Tod Cutler are great sources of inspiration. lightening and bushing the piston will make for smoother acceleration, if you want a more compact set up you can put springs inside springs for slightly different spring rates. You could always try gas springs!!. Also M10 grub screws make excellent bullets

growing up as a kid, it was part of life making bows or guns. we made simple ones with a piece of 2x2 and a nail bent over in the end and then a clothes peg nailed in at the other end to hold a peg spring in place. then release and the rubber band did the rest lol. I'd hate to think what we could have made with your tools at our disposal lol. 👍👍. Jason from ACL in Hereford

I make similar things but out of random items and objects that I can find around my house. Videos like this are what inspire me to make things like my kebab skewer rifle! Thank you and keep it up!

Is good idea .....!!! 🤔. DANIEL MOSS ....👍 .

yessss it's not stupid stuff, it's fun stuff!

I was not expecting the use of the forge, impressive

Its power is OK, just enough to stop a hungry bandit from charging at you.

You could use the final "slam" to trigger a lever which whiplashes the bolt at the end of its travel. This could be as simple as a captive weight on a pin attached to a lever or a spring. This is the "whipcrack" launch method, and it could add a subatantial final "kick" up to final launch speed. You need a much longer throw, and more powerful springs. You can also lightening all the moving parts, maximising the acceleration.

This is really cool! You are absolutely right, the energy is there. Its how its transfered to the ballbearing that is the problem. As you can see alot of the energy you want transfered to the ball is now being transfered onto the nut , smashing it instead of firing the bearing. What you need to do here is to make the piston slam into the ball bearing by moving it up the pipe. This will transfer alot of the kinetic energy from the piston to the ball rather than the ball inheriting the momentum of the piston. This is the same principle of a how a hammer works. You would never be able to push a nail in despite using alot more energy but by shockimg the nail more of the energy is transfered to the nail itself rather than into your hands. Beware though this will damage the piston

Quite the workshop! :-)

Daniel, please! Always eye protection especially when working with springs under tension. You've got mad skills.

Good toy! 👍

Отличная работа можно ещё пружину устройт под пластину чтобы пальцем не цыплять автоматически защелкивала СУПЕР УДАЧИ

Fallout 4 vibes

The springs have force. But you need that force to develop in a short moment. that's the elasticity of the spring. So a rubber is more effective with less force.

Very cool Dan! Thanks for sharing and God Bless you sir!

This is a video I didn't know I needed. I want one now lol

Ok, here's a thought. Maybe reverse the system, and use compression springs? Rig a detachable peg, for 'cocking' the bow, by foot power. 😀👍

Several ways to increase the power, here. the cross beam in the front extend them like a crossbow with curves and the springs sit on the outer most edges, the the crossbar need to have some spring to it. the bolt needs to be able to drawn to the point where the springs are about to be sprung, when that is about to happen the crossbar will bend back adding more tension. Stronger springs are also an option here. 60 foot pounds to take down most large game.

I like your project. If I can throw some ideas into your melting pot for low velocity a sphere is the best shape adding mass such as using lead will to some extent carry the ball slightly further. You are using four springs which have the same handed twist if yo look at your spring gun you will see it wants to twist the bolt carrier in one direction, this looses a small amount of power, also I doubt if the springs are equally balanced meaning one or two springs are doing more work. hanging them from a bar and determining their unloaded length then adding the same known weight and measuring the extension would give an indication as to which spring(s) are stronger. As you said giving the springs a register would help especially if the ends are captive to ensure the pull is directly fore and aft. I would suggest having left an right helical twisted springs so they oppose any twisting moment an ideally a push spring system using two springs one inside the other as use on engine inlet an exhaust valves would apply all the force directly into your piston. The damage to your nut indicates that there is still tension in the springs as well as momentum of the moving mass while it looks like lost energy there would be little gain from trying to harness it as the projectile is already moving at the maximum velocity, a hard rubber buffer would help to eliminate the thump and also reduce the shock affect on your aim. a rudimentary ring sight at the rear and a post foresight would assist or using double ring sights smaller at the rear helps the eye aline the barrel to the target. A brass or bronze bush that supports the piston would help lubricate and square up your piston you might loose a small bit of rearwards motion on cocking but that would be regained by easing the pistons travel. Is your projectile a tight fit, or sloppy fit, is your barrel mirror finished inside to reduce friction could you apply some Teflon spray to minimise any friction.

Now iam going to use this..in my classroom..😁😁😁

Your #1 modification to increase velocity is increasing the legth of the power stroke.

it would be good if you could have some form of spring to allow the trigger to return to the lock positionn after firing, this would add a little pressure to the trigger to stop misfiring but also aid in the cocking of the weapon.

Efficiency depends on relation of spring system mass and the ammunition mass. With heavy forged parts, most of the power goes accelerating a mass which don't fly. That energy cause only problems when the springs hit the end. The performance gets better in a same propotion you can reduce mass of moving parts. A bow is efficent because the spring itself don't move much and the string is light. If you want to use the springs, you could try some lightweight lever whigh translates relatively low speed but higher mass into higher speed for lower weight ammo. With a quick thinking, it is very difficult to beat a string based bow. A split tube with the string inside and the string tension with lightweight lever and really strong springs which hardly move at all would be very efficient.

Make a metal stock out of square tubing, skeleton stock.The most dangerous part about crossbow type weapons is not just the bow or spring failure its a weak stock. Have you tried using a single more powerful longer spring to keep the bulk down. rather than multiple. Make use of the centre rod you could put your power spring there. You also have to remember that the power is taken up by the weight of the recoiling mechanism, by the time the power is transferred to the projectile you have lost a bit of energy. Don't forget to use some rubber buffers to stop it clanking at the end of travel. to help stop it breaking apart ofter quite a few shots. Watch out using ball bearings for ammo as they can fly back at the shooter, use lead balls. use a light wire spring to hold ball in place or light magnet if you do use steel ball. Great workshop you have.

I have not read the other comments , my thought was to increase the energy was to use SS wire and pulleys to increase the spring output. Just a thought.

Can't wait for the next one ....👀🔥

Your problem is velocity. Each coil of the spring contracts at the same speed. If that speed is 1m/s, the entire spring will contract at 1m/s. If the spring is double the length, or 2m, it will still contract in 1 second. If your projectile achieves 1m/s on a 1m spring, it will achieve 2m/s on a 2m long spring. On the other hand, if the spring is only 100mm long, the projectile would only reach .1m/s, or one tenth of the speed. You would probably achieve the same result if you removed 3 springs. If you could then place the 4 springs in line, you would get 4x the velocity. Bows using springs rely on the length of the bow arm to leverage the velocity. An air rifle uses a large piston to drive a a large volume of air through a small hole, increasing the velocity dramatically. Adding bow arms with your springs would provide the gearing to increase the velocity.

Spring tension is your problem. Most projectiles like this have a slightly forward notch for the pull back to lock into forward so when you lock it, a small amount of tension is released from the springs allowing for room potential. Full tension will cause a lesser strength release, unless it is not spring, but explosion based tension set.

Looks like a fun build, that results in something unique IMO, great video, thank you!

Nice toy! You are now in the middle of making a bow or an air gun. That's the same path people in 15~16 century you revisit. You give it a barrel and compress chamber, it will be air gun. You keep the design, it will be consider as some kind of bow. The placement of spring, now you have all 4 parallel, you can try 4 corners, just like a stool chair, it will make it slim, probably more stable. The other things to concern is the nut. If you check no matter crossbow or airgun, parts don't smash each other when you pull the trigger, energy loss is hugh and left the ball no juice to go far. This toy already have enough power, just how to use it. In the bow case, only the string touch the ball and all the energy transfer are done in that single point. In the airgun case, the pump nozzle blow the ball through the barrel, again, no parts smash each other. You are now in the edge to reinvent a device, nice work👍

Thank !

Awesome craftsmanship, need some speed multipliers to generate power! tension springs can retract at about 100-200 FPS. Compounding the mechanical action requires some creative engineering. Many ways to do it, but necessary for increasing speed!

Nice build , can see how this can be suped up to something a whole lot more powerful with bigger and stronger springs.

Wow that's awesome keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend forge on

I have wanted to build one of these for a long time, thanks for doing this!

Min 0:11 ... this is absolutely great

I would recommend lightening the piston as you've already stated, lengthening the forend to about double, and maybe try playing around with rubber, or you could make a pair of limbs and cable them to your current setup. Honestly, just do some general experimentation, but the springs are most likely what will ultimately limit you in the end, super heavy springs will dump a lot of energy, but with a super short launch stroke, yielding low efficiency, and light springs will give you a much longer launch and a greater efficiency at the cost of power. Unless I'm wrong, which I probably am, there's no winning with springs, at least not on this project. Anyhoo, great concept, keep it up!

I love the idea Daniel

ติดตา​มแล้ว​ ยาย​ช่อง​ใหม่​เด้อ มิสนี​ แซ่​บเวอร์​ คะ

Yes yes yes yes! Weaponry, an excellent choice Sir! Just a thought, if you’d like us to do the stock, if you could provide a rough (as much dimensional accuracy as poss), we’d be happy to send that too you for MK II, ‘The Full Bore’!

I have been designing this for a long time, and thought when I come out it will be a revolutionary idea. Yes, I thought I was the only smart one with that idea, and then I came across your video by accident. It kind ruined my moment, but also made me feel good, because I am not the only one looking to create something like it. Meaning thinking outside the box. My idea is close but different at the same time, with some modern implementations. Anyway, I will subscribe so I can see how far it will go. Wish you the best!

Awesome design. Why don't sell this thing online 🙂🤙 I'm not a handy person, but I've thought about a spring weapon design . It's the reverse of yours. If I was handy, I would use one spring, that's compressed. At the end, I would put a magnet, to keep the bullet or arrow (of steel) in place. An electric motor would be used to pull the spring into the barell and compress the spring. The trigger would hold the spring. Using an engine and a powerful spring, this thing could shoot through a door lol What about recoil? Don't ask me 😜

Maybe a oilite (oil bronze don't know the UK brand equivalent) to keep the piston aligned on center. Say 25mm long. Shorter springs. Spring tension increases as you extend it to a point. Use McMaster Carr as a reference, again probably a UK equivalent but McMaster has a lot of tech specs. You want the springs near max extension when cocked, those springs had a lot of extension left meaning they weren't at their full potential. They could store a lot more kinetic energy. Cool project, I like the ideas to modify it you listed, particularly the trigger.

Performance: Rifle with a pistol length barrel. - - - (increase the the barrel length) Limit the weight of all moving parts. - - - (Replace non-load-bearing parts with lighter replacements) Ball bearings of that diameter are heavy. - - - (Decrease projectile weight) Low power springs. - - - (Increase power or number of springs) Excess friction. - - - (Add 1 layer of oil) Ergonomics: Your trigger seems under developed. - - - (Add a lever out of the side of the locking side of the trigger for you finger to grab while cocking. (or make it spring based so it's auto)) Loading is tedious. - - - (Add foot brace to front) Safety: Magazine. - - - (Placing your hand in front of the barrel while it's cocked is not advised. drill a BB sized hole at the top and back of the barrel, add a pipe leading to it. Use gravity to load it) Trigger guard. - - - (Trigger Guard) Conclusion: This design is great, with only minor tweaks it could deal some real damage. (if you chose to go for that of course) This is comment is just an Easy-To-Access collection of ideas. Some my own, some from other comments.

Thought I came up with the idea first. I was going to use trampoline spring to get a shit ton of spring power. I figured 4 springs would be strong enough to get a back workout too.

You can make it five times powerful enough to punch through thick steel by adding more bigger springs to your crossbow

Talk to the guy at the Slingshot channel he has the experience with this sort of thing and is a great guy

The force stronger than ordinary crossbow.. good idea.. I want make it for self defense

more power requires more or stronger springs, or more throw, or both... the longer the power stroke the faster the projectile flies, within the mechanical limits of the mechanism.... increasing spring power raises the mechanical limits, but best ban for the buck is increasing stroke

Tigger guard and a safety wouldn't go amiss - I'd reach out to Joerg Sprave of the slingshot channel, he'd be able to offer you some good advice. Dan, as to your woodworking skill set, you state often enough, 'Trust me I'm a Blacksmith', not trust me, I'm a carpenter - for what you're doing, your woodworking skills are plenty good enough - don't listen to the naysayers. Goodluck, as usual, another great vid and an interesting twist on what you usually do - but when you think about it, its something your blacksmithing forebears would've had to engaged with, as building new or better armaments was sometimes part of their brief.

Very nice video Good job

From what I know (I really don't know much about this) the limited power has mostly to do with the efficiency of using steel to accelerate the projectile. My guess is that a spring would get you to a similar efficiency as a medieval crossbow, maybe a bit better with the right / higher quality steel. I don't think a bow arm vs spring would be very different here. You should be able to make a powerful bow with this, do know you will need a good system to actually be able to pull the bow.

id recommend a damper on the entrance of the barrel where the plunger sits to prevent further damage to the system as well as thinning the plunger (leave a wide head and use a thinner bolt). if your looking for further power id use high grade springs. im inspired by your design to create my own similar design however with my limited tools and capability to do so at the moment my ideas are stuck in the water. maybe using an h shape (keeping the central arm but allowing a space to add another two springs per side via a upper and lower metal arm add on) would allow your power output to increase

Nice one! Good job dude. Looking forward to the next one :D

Something that I haven't seen anyone else touch on (apologies if someone did mention it and I missed it) is something that came to mind when you showed the damage to the nut. That damaged nut is an indication of wasted energy, in that you have this tremendous energy stored up, but some of it is being transferred to the ball bearing and some of it is getting transferred to the bow, itself. Obviously, it's going to be impossible to transfer 100% of the energy into the ball bearing, but I'd guess you'd be able to put more of the ball bearing if you gave yourself some more travel in the springs (along the lines of your initial idea with the disengaged length). That said, the force of a spring increases proportionally the distance it's elongated/compressed, meaning the peak force in your springs is right when you pull the trigger, and the force the springs exert decreases as they relax. So there could likely be a sweet spot

Enjoyed video. I know this is about a year late but, that looks like a good base for a post apocalyptic cross bow. Go with a metal frame skeletonized it would look awesome and you could crank up the tension on the springs. Just a thought

Amazing crossbow, so creative

Greetings. Thank you sir. I learned from you. Liked and subscribed. 🙏

forging some traditional crossbow limbs would be very cool

Выглядит круто .этот конструкция напоминает подводные ружья

Looks like a fun project.

Check out how spring-action air rifles are made. Break barrel air rifles use springs that can shoot .35 caliber pellets and 900 fps 80 ft-lbs of energy. Might be able to get some inspiration from them? I do know that springs that pull have more drag than springs that push. So maybe consider using rubber bands used for exercising?

The design kind of reminds me of the M79 grenade launcher they used during the Vietnam war. Very cool looking device, it should be fun to shoot. Good job!

that trigger design is awesome!

Change from wood to more in the direction of titanium, add a crank for the draw like the ones on hunting crossbows, a notch on the trigger mechanism that sets the catch, notches for the springs....and more springs...lol

support the rod at both ends, use a tube with a cap to make it lighter.

Also adding a valve spring on the ramrod to absorb the shock to impact on the nut

get rid of that heavy cross bar and have the springs meet at a single point where you'd place the bolt/arrow. attach a crank with a steel cable to pull the springs, you can add two additional springs for a total of 6.

A bunch of small strong springs connected to each other make it more bungee

G'day mate, so this is very interesting because I had this same idea back in the mid 80's but never really did much with it beyond pen and paper. Here are some thoughts which I've since used on other projects. Springs. So there is a LOT out there in the world of springs. First thing you need to do is figure out the parameters of what you need (pound per inch of pull, total pull length, width etc) and then get spring made to these specs. Store bought springs will only take you so far. That being said, you should look into springs catalogs to see if what you need has not already been made and is not already available.... that would make things a lot easier. If after much gnawing of pencils and gnashing of teeth, you realize you just can't get a spring made to fit your specs (maybe because to get what you need you would need a longer length of pull than the stock will allow or it would be too wide), consider the option of using compression springs instead of extension springs. It's basically like using a shock absorber and the fun thing about compression springs is they tend to be very powerful on shorter lengths than extension springs. It's a different beast altogether and you gotta build a housing for the spring and that comes with its own headaches, but it is an option. If you do go with extension springs, one thing to know, the failure point is going to be those loops you attach the spring with. So the way to work around this is to machine a plug that screws into the inside of the spring and is made to the specs of the spring's wire. When an extension spring is pulled, the spring tightens down on itself and gets a bit smaller, so as soon as there is tension on it, it will squeeze the plug, so that plus isn't going anywhere, just make it long enough to get a few threads going. The center of this pug can then be drilled to accept either a bolt or cables. If you use cables, make sure you use cables that are ten times (I mean this very literally) stronger than your maximum draw tension, so that it isn't the cable that fails. By using a cable, you will need to swage a stopper to the end of the cable. Do not use ordinary pliers to do this. You need to use a special tool that is used in aeronautics because these special pliers will form the swage sleeve with even tension all around the cable. There are many types of swage sleeves and many materials (aluminium, copper etc). Use the strongest you can find. A properly swaged sleeve should give you around 80 - 90% of the cable's strength, so if you've chosen a cable that was many times stronger than the limit of your spring, even at 80%, the swage sleeve is still stronger than your spring. You see where this is going? You want to raise your levels of safety at every turn, because you're gonna put a lot of pressure on this thing and you don't want that to fail in your face. As a companion to the inner plug for the extension spring, you may also want to make an external sleeve that wraps around the outside of the spring, covering the area where the plug is fitted. This sleeve is in two parts that close around the spring and it also has threads that match the wire of the spring and is held on to the spring by screws on either side of the sleeve, clamping it down over the head of the spring. This external sleeve does add size to the spring, so you'll need extra clearance to accommodate it. Next, cams. Although I don't have a lot of experience with cams, you might want to look into them as they do offer extra power and a lower neutral hold point once drawn. Stock. You may get to a point where more strength than simple wood is needed, and at that point the first level is of course aluminium, but don't use cheap stuff, use high strength aluminium, like the 6061 or the 7075 alloys. If that still doesn't do the job, you may have to either incorporate steel into the design or go with carbon fiber. I don't know enough about carbon fiber to be of much help here. Last but not least, I HIGHLY recommend you build a testing bench so you don't have that thing in your face when you are first testing it out... Good luck!

Hello friend, it is a very good project, perhaps, adding a longer barrel, the projectile would come out with more power, and improve the trajectory. blessings and greetings from Chile.

Like it. Good work.

I don't know anything about this concept as this is the very first time seeing such. But will say that increasing the stroke length would increase its power.

Hey Daniel I love the idea of you making cross bows through the ages I would watch that.

Also very good for shooting the dog or cat just for making fun! AHAJAJAJAJA!!!🤪👍 Very soon I too will be making one of my own! OHOHOJOJOJOJO! 🖐😁🤚 There’s a local junkyard here. Just a few blocks away from home. Perfectly more than enough to offer me on materials. I can hardly wait to make my gun!🤪👍 It’ll be arrows and ball bearing.

Enjoyed the video great effort

Use thick black spear gun rubber, it will be much more silent, plus you can add a tube magazine for the ball bearings.

It's beautiful, but whatever you make just know that Joerg made it fully automated by now.

I love your shop

I was looking for Spring Dampened Stocks I Swear 2 Things from me : - Spring Catch (for those springs stay put and consistent) - longer barrel (rifled if could) -

Reminds me a bit of the carspring balista, that was not a safe idea in the least.

Аппарат вполне приличный. Сделан очень добротно. Но я бы вместо большой гайки поставил резиновую или силиконовую прокладку (втулку) для смягчения удара.