Nice job! I know a few people who would have just "fixed" the long crease on the side of the box by slinging a bunch of filler over it. You make it look easy. Have a great weekend
Great video on how to use a bunch of different pullers to get it done! Steck makes some innovative things for sure! That HF 5 inch sander is a great deal and I'm kicking myself - needed a set of backing plates for my very old RODAC 5" sander. Ordered them like 3 days ago for $26 bucks. Should have just gone to HF and bought one of these for 20 bucks!
I think mine other 5" is an old RODAC. They used to make decent tools - my dad had an old red one I think it was RODAC too. All those little sanders last forever though as long as you give them a bit of oil now and then.
Damm Jerry. Your good. You have the tools and know how to use them. I've never used a Pogo stick before. I only used the slide hammer.. You just showed the best of both worlds. As always thank you for making the video and teaching us want to be body guys.. Lol. Great job my man!!
You're welcome - I always have to ask for stuff my wife want me to ask for - like clothes, shoes, things that are easy to wrap - nice boxes and such :)
Yes - the truck was a scrapper's truck so the thing got pretty beat up. Runs real nice so... I think it'll look real nice when finished. Going with the original stock center caps and trim rings on the painted steel wheels. I like that look :)
@@LakesideAutobody I mentioned you in my video coming up Friday. be sure to get a comment in there on it. Probably bring some people your way. I like guys who teach realistic body work.
@@Mikefngarage Hey Mike - that's real cool of you - I like your style of work too. I'll stop by for sure and comment. I'm liking the 54-55 VW oval you've been working on. Jerry
I'm always impressed with what you can do with nothing. No Caroliner, no Spansi frame racks, no Sata or Iwata spray guns. Having priviously worked in a fully equipped shop (Think Blue Collar Kyle) what you do with mirrors amazes me.
Glad to hear it. Thanks for the support and I'll upload some more but I have a few rust jobs coming up first. You're welcome BTW and always feel free to ask any ?s. Jerry
Thanks again! I have a crease on my 1960 Comet and have been wondering how to approach it. May be able to get to some of it from the trunk. The car is in bad shape. Rust!
HEY JERRY It's me again , I really like your videos. I have never really done any MAJOR body work except for putting on a few quarter - Panels on mustangs , but no heavy pulling from collisions . I've seen the Steck quarter puller when I used to work in the paint shop at the Ford dealership but never understood how it worked , just looking at it. Thanks for the demonstration . By the way . Is that the new 2021 body shop uniform your wearing . Have a good weekend. Thanks again.
Hi Al - good to hear from you. Glad you liked the video and you're welcome. Yeah.... the clothes are getting ratty - it was like 90 degrees in there that day. I did have my wife pick up some new shorts though recently - she says I have to keep them nice. Have a great weekend :)
It's called a Donkey Dong , AKA as a bumper hammer. Would probably be worth mentioning when using a stud welder , There's sound deading materials Foam / seam sealers and such on the back side of the panel which are highly flammable.
I don't think it would go real well for car companies if they built cars that were highly flammable. With respect, that's not really true. Although you can get some smoke and at times a few small flames from using a torch or heavy MIG welding, it is a good idea to have a blow gun ready to quickly snuff it out. In a lifetime of doing bodywork, I've never had a car catch on fire.
@@LakesideAutobody Ok Jerry it's your channel and you have All the answers. Not trying to rain on your parade , But you saying that's not true is BS. Educate yourself and your viewers.
@@keithclark486 With respect, I don't really have all the answers but it's not cool too try and scare folks from trying new tools. Stud welders are used every day across the nation - yes a few things get roasted here and there but the cars don't burst into flames. Highly flammable is paper, gasoline, thinner, spray bomb paint cans, etc. You're making it sound like when they use it there's a chance they'll burn the garage down. That's not good information - I like to share information that helps a guy drive a better car - that's it. Don't mean to offend you - have a good weekend Keith. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody 97 Ford aerostar van Don't know if you've ever worked on 1 ? A local shop was repairng the rocker On those the rocker and hinge pillar are filled with foam , the employee was using a stud welder , Guess what ? The foam ignited , flames got up the dash , Don't know if you've ever been around foam and wire's burning ? Thick black smoke that'll take your breath, They hooked a chain to it and jerked it off the jack stands , Drug it out in the parking lot and it Burt to the ground. Had a fellow working for , Was stud pulling the 1/4 on a explorer , Caught it on fire. Those enclosed cavities have sound dampening materials Foam / Urethane seam sealers / vent hoses / air ducts Which are flammable And a stud gun will flame up on the inside panel. I know of numerous cases of shops reporting fires caused by them. I was not trying to discourage your viewers or discredit your channel All I was saying was take precaution when using a stud welder They have been known to cause fires. All it takes is a few saftey precautions by pulling a panel to access the to be repaired area and a water bottle. Seems you took my initial comment out of text ? I know your channel mostly caters to the DIY who may not be aware of the possibilities. Do you understand now ?
@@keithclark486 No worries Keith, I hear you and understand your point. Stuff can burn that's true - got to be prepared for small fires to turn into big fires. Thanks for your comments and always good to hear various ideas and thoughts. Nice talking to you - have a good weekend :)
In a scenario like a dent in a roof would you only be able to use the stud welder’s slide hammer and bondo or is there something else like the pogo stick you can use? I’m working on a 79 f250 and I had to make a new roof drip rail on the driver’s side (which I’m not done with) and two sheet metal patches that span all the way across above each drip rail. There is a decent sized dent in the middle of the roof in line with the inner roof frame where I can’t get a block on the inside. This truck is for me not a customer and it’s my first time doing body work. My profile description has a link to the google photos collection of the project so far if you wanna look. I’m 20 and working alone so it’s definitely a RU-vid learning experience. Thanks.
You could use a come along anchored to some strong rafters, tree branches, etc. Another way is using an engine hoist, or like you mentioned the pogo stick with the base prying on a very sturdy part of the roof - corner, side, post, etc. You might put a little dent there but that's a small price. Let me know if you have more ?s - Jerry
@@LakesideAutobodyThanks for the help. Your videos are extremely helpful. I just bought the same pogo stick and vise grip setup to do better work. I’ve been using the slide hammer or a dolly and hammer for a while and your method looks so much easier and more precise.
I think you'll really like this method - it was really all I used for dents when working in various body shops - other fellas used the same process - that's where I got it from. You'll use it for a ton of other things too - twisting bumper brackets, pulling out ground stakes, etc. Glad the videos help - thanks for watching 👍💯@@buttonysquare8501
I think you'll really like this method - it was really all I used for dents when working in various body shops - other fellas used the same process - that's where I got it from. You'll use it for a ton of other things too - twisting bumper brackets, pulling out ground stakes, etc. Glad the videos help - thanks for watching 👍💯@@buttonysquare8501
I like that Only thing i can do for dents and crunches is grab my slide hammer and tappity tap with my hammer n dolly set I like your setup tho, maybe one of these days I can add some equipment🤔
You don't have to have a ton of $ to get pretty well set up. Although I've been wishing for a super nice compressor for years. I'd love to have 220 in the garage and a nice big quality air compressor. I'm keeping the dream alive though :)
@@LakesideAutobody yup, sure would be nice to have a big ole 80 gallon! I bought a 30 gallon and its gotta last. I change the oil probably more than I need to, but better than not often enuf....
I either have a bad stud welder or contaminated studs. If I got half of the studs you welded to stick I'd be lucky, and yes I've sanded and ground down to bare metal and have even tried wax and grease remover all to no avail. Kinda frustrating at best.
You know.... I had that problem a few times. Wonder if it's the metal. Maybe try a scrap piece of sheet metal from something - see if it works on that. Let me know if you figure it out. Jerry
@@LakesideAutobody It has happened on several body panels from various vehicles most problematic is a 96 ram 2500 xtended cab. I've stuck magnets to various places on these panels and they all had strong bonds. I have not tried migging it with pieces of sheet metal. Guess I'll give that a go. Thanks
@@LakesideAutobody Have done that also, even went a bit longer but of course then came the hole! I believe it's inferior metal and my first guess would be in the studs but not certain of that. I'll need to get more, but again i've had failure with the larger and smaller ones and they must have come from different batches. I may try tacking one with the mig and if it holds it could lead to welder itself. I've brushed the tip making certain the contact is good for a ground. Sorta puzzles me and I'm certainly not a certified welder. Maybe I will make up three or four test panels and see what that produces. Will let you know. Thanks for all your suggestions, I appreciate it. lee
There's an inner wheel well - you can only pull. Same with the dent on top - no access - filler tube. There's really only one fast way to remove ALL dents, and that's to pull. No sense even trying to play around picking at it or trying to finesse it out w/ fancy tools. Just pull it, fill it and you're done.
