Hey, thanks for watching and your comment. I started a website to help people locate a great window company near them. We may have someone in your area. Please visit TheWindowExperts.com
I tell ya. Some carpenters are not honest as I am almost ready to make a decision on which windows to buy and have replaced. I have lovely Old fashioned traditional wood trim with rosettes! It’s beautiful around the windows and a guy told me no way to do a pocket replacement without major work. Sorry but another windows guy said horse dung! He said he could get pocket replacements and save me money. So I’m now working on the replacements and as you know, Jeff, I have been watching your videos and researching several window companies including Windsor. My home is EIFS and it would cost a fortune to destroy that fancy huge trim around my window frames. So pocket windows and maybe the Windsor will do. I may have another final question soon regarding Windsor.
Here in Michigan, a ton of homes built in the late 80's/early 90's had Andersen Narroline windows. Andersen has a wonderful conversion kit from double hung to Tilt Wash double hung. People love them and they are affordable. And you get a new warranty :D
At the 9min mark you talk about gaining 1” of window by installing from the outside, how do you achieve a wider window by installing from the outside without removing the frame of the window if the stops attach to the frame on the inside and outside both?
Hi Jeff - I really love your videos. You do a terrific job explaining all the pros/cons to the various window options in such a clear way. I have about 30 sets of double hung windows on the back side of my house that I'm looking to replace, as the sashes and some of the sills are showing their age (about 25 years old). I'd like to maximize the glass area, so pocket windows are unfortunately out. The sash kits seem like a promising option (though I'd of course need to separately fix the sills in the areas where needed). I've found very little information online from the different manufacturers on their sash kits, however. Do you have any wood/clad or PVC sash kits that you particularly like? Also, is the jamb liner supposed to be caulked on the exterior side? That's how they did it in my house, but it seems like that's a bad idea (especially at the bottom of the jamb liner), since water seems to get in the pocket where the jamb liner sits and has no way out (leading to the eventual wood rot on the sill). Thanks!
Thank you for watching and for your question. Windsor windows makes a great sash kit. It's definitely worth looking into. I would not clock the jam liner on any sash kit. You want to allow some flexibility in there for expansion and contraction, and you do not want the trap any water. If you're looking for a great window company near you, I may know someone. Check out JeffsList.com
I don't believe I've ever done a project with curved windows. Are you talking about windows that curve or is it multiple windows mulled together to create a curve?
I wish you would have showed the bottom section of that pocket window, the sill area. I want to know if those sill part of the pocket window is angled or is it square/90 degrees? In other words, is the bottom angled to fit inside a frame that has an angled sill?
Hi Jeff. Love your videos you've taught me so much about windows and what to look for. Wish your business was in NC. That said, I live in southeast part of NC. Do you know of any window replacement guys around here you would recommend?
Jeff, I am one of those homeowners who after the install I took a look and cried. My salesperson was not an educator. Can you recommend someone in my area Daly City California to come out and take a look? Perhaps I can have the windows replaced again. I had my vinyl windows replaced with retrofit flush fin windows that completely ruin the beauty of my exterior stucco home. The wide fins sit on top of the stucco and it seems there is caulk on the top and side where the fin meets the stucco wall but not on the bottom edge. In addition, I can slide a thin piece of paper through the bottom edge where there is no caulk. Is that a correct install?
That's called jumping the frame. I'm not a fan but it may be required in your area. To find a great window company near you, please check out JeffsList.com
We are looking at replacing window in a 100 yr old home. I’m interested in your option of replacing from the exterior and not losing so much glass. I’d like to keep the interior trim in tact but could replace the exterior trim. I have been told the stop between the sashes is often a mortise and tenon joint with the jamb. Have you run into this type of install? If so, do you just cut the stop against the jamb? They also said there is another piece laying just under the exterior trim to hold the outside of the sash. Is this removed or cut off? Thanks, appreciate all the information in your videos.
I would leave the original components in place as much as possible. And then I would insert the window from the outside. Without being there, it's pretty difficult to describe. Maybe I can help you find an expert in your area? Check out JeffsList.com
When you were comparing the two vinyl insert frames, the skinnier one appears to be a fixed picture window rather than a double hung. Is that correct, or am I seeing it wrong? Also, how can you maintain a good U-value on a vinyl window that does not have a mutli-chamber design? That's not as much of an issue in Houston as it would be somewhere like Chicago. Thanks for the videos!
Your method of leaving the casing in place only works if the full frame replacement window is the same size/style, correct? Example, if you are replacing a DH for a Casement the size from the inside of the home would get bigger? It looks like my DH windows are shorter on the inside of the home then the outside due to the pitch on the bottom sash.
Without seeing your exact setup it would be hard for me to answer that question. However, most replacement windows that would go into an opening like that would have a transition piece at the bottom to accommodate for the slope.
@@HoustonWindowExperts I as well love watching your videos. Although I am struggling with your casing in place installation. If your doing a full frame install, casing in place, how are you insulating between the RO and the window?
Remove all the brick mold around the exterior to put the new window in. We can then insulate it from the outside before we put the new brick mold back on.
I will be replacing all my windows in my home and I would like to keep the existing indoor wood trim. Can you please advise as to the make and model of the rotozip tool that is used to cut through the nails that hold this wood trim?
If you know the brand of window, you can reach out to the manufacturer in order a frame. If not, unfortunately, you're going to need to replace the entire window.
My windows are very complicated wooden windows that slide and basically hide in the actual wall when they’re open, they also leak hot air in the summer and cold in the winter and it’s so hard to heat and cool my house without a Hefty electric bill and I have no idea what to even call them when I’m trying to tell window people. My question is what are those called and also would it need to be completely remodeled to get more efficient windows in?
That is called a pocket window. I have seen them used in very temperate climates, but never anywhere that's hot or cold. You would need to completely remove them and probably do some framing in order to install a typical window.
Hi Jeff I live in central Ohio. I put pella wood windows in my home with aluminum outside back in 2000. Now all my upstairs windows are rotting out. I would like to not have to mess with any exterior. When I purchased the windows they had a limited life time warranty. But that’s usually 20 years. I have to do something. Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks Eric
@@HoustonWindowExperts I have j-Chanel around all the windows that need done. I would rather replace with pocket windows or replace the tracks and window upper and lowered. I would gladly switch to vinyl.
Hello Jeff I will be replacing all my windows in my home and I would like to keep the existing wood trim. In the first technique of full replacement that you showed, where you can cut through the nails, keep the existing trim and replace the windows from the outside, would any reputable window company be able to apply this method of installation?
I have to tell you that a lot of window companies don't have enough experience to do that well. It is quite a challenging feat. If you're looking for a great window company near you, please be sure to check out JeffsList.com. we may have a window company that we can recommend near you.
Thank you for watching and your question. A lot of this depends on the neighborhood you're in and how vinyl might affect the value of your home. I know that's not important to everyone, but I thought I should mention it. A good window installer, installing a good vinyl window, will be a very successful project. I would just be concerned that maybe a vinyl window would not be fitting with the character or value of your home. I hope that makes sense. The negative to doing a sash kit, is that it may rot again unless you have an aluminum cladding. It also will not resolve any issues you may be having with your frame.
They did what you said and did tear out, but kept original aluminum wrapped angled exterior sill plate. They didn't put them in with enough wood, and filled in with SO much silicone. They stick out from the siding, and fat gap on bottom, more thin on other 3 sides. They look horrendous. The trim will stick OUT from the siding-pretty ugly. Suggestions, anyone???
You should consider having a few well trained traveling installation teams instead of “referrals”. I’d pay a premium for the service without repentance.
Thanks for your comment. Finding staffing is the most challenging part of our business. We really don't have a capacity to travel when we stay so busy in houston. Right now we have over 350 jobs so we still need to install!
