Tip I learned...dampen a sponge, and wipe the tiles BEFORE grouting. It does two things,...it makes it easier to spread the grout so it doesn't dry as fast while you're spreading, AND it makes it WAY easier to clean off the tile...it basically almost eliminates the haze.
@@David34981 funny, I've been doing it that way for the last...ahhh...50 years. Especially on the 12x24" tile he's using. Now if you're talking the little 4x4" tiles, sure, you grout the whole tile...but smearing it all over the face of a 2 square foot tile is just wasting time...and time = money.
Nice job guys, looking forward to seeing how you tackle that vanity. Two quick thoughts for you, instead of pouring water into the pan of the wet saw, sit your 5 gallon bucket next to the saw and drop the pump down in it. this way you are pulling clean water through the pump and it will last much longer. The second thing, and I know a lot of people think it's crazy, but when you are putting down your thin set keep your trowel lines straight. The reason for that is when you seat the tile it creates an air pocket and the straight trowel lines will let the air escape and give you much better transfer and adhesion. When you have some time take two pieces of glass and some thin set and try it both ways, one straight and one curved and you will be able to see the difference. I don't want to sound like a know it all because I'm far from it but there really is some validity to it. Thanks.
I know they are more work with editing and stuff, but definitely like the longer videos more then the shorter ones!! Very educational. Helping me remodel my own bathroom.
Honestly these gentlemen seem like good people. So I don’t want to be rude. however they did a few things incorrectly. Like using backer boards to fill in the voids near the pan. Also drywall screws to fasten the boards to the floor.
@@StudPack I suppose I’m assuming. However the screws are black and have a Phillips head. they look like drywall screws. Backer board screws are usually dark green or a mate gray color, use a Star Drive tip and won’t rust. respectfully I disagree. backer board should never be installed on a shower floor as it will break down over time. Instead use deck mud to fill those voids, this method is also approved by the Schluter company. Backer board is not.
@@Toni_Snark deck mud is always in stock at all your local hardware stores. It’s a very common product. No matter your location. I’m very relaxed. I was just commenting on some issues I saw and didn’t want the original poster to make same mistakes on his or her shower renovation. As mentioned before I like these gentlemen. I’m not trying to be rude or anything like that. I was just trying help because I do this for a living.
My biggest takeaway from you folks, it’s okay to just be okay with obstacles and things not going as planned. The thing that slows me down the most is always trying to have everything perfect. That’s just not reality. You’ve demonstrated with the right attitude any problem can be solved even if unconventional (not perfect). Great channel!
9:35 is a perfect example of why I love this channel. I've said it before, I'll say it again, Paul has become an amazing presenter, not just compared to where this channel started, but in general. I'd put him up with the greats like Bob Vila (Only half kidding) I love moments like this where Paul just lays it out and I love how at the end @ 13:30 Jordan gives him props on a solid segment. Wanted to throw my own kudos in on that cause Paul absolutely nailed it like always! (Also, @ 7:15 I loved how Paul came in looking like what I imagine every construction worker on Kauai looked like before Jordan told him not to worry bout changing out of his leisure wear. Loving this Hawaiian adventure.)
Bob Villa never was that great. Bob couldn't do a tenth of what he talked about and This Old House was really just to showcase high dollar homes. There wasn't a lot of time spent on any one subject. So I'd say that Stud Pack is better than TOH.
it really is night and day from Paul early videos, i wonder if he took a class in presenting and public speaking, a lot more energy and fun, it reminds me of AthleanX Jeff's early days where he was reading cue cards to a more natural feeling dialogue;;
Love the work guys. Big tip when grouting: always clean the sponge every time you wipe and only wipe off in one direction. When you do circular motion, grout from the sponge gets back on the tiles and makes the tile look like that (i.e. cloudy). You can get perfect looking tile/grout by only using a clean sponge and whipping in one direction.
I think if you bullnose/round both the outside corners of the vanity top, it would prevent a sharp edge to run into, even if it's 1" that would make it much softer if you bump it. I think it might looks cool to match the round edges of the beams.
This is A great episode. Coach getting things DONE!!! No nonsense rain messing with him. He is at his best improvising with his superior skill set. Love it 🎉 !!!!
This has got to be one of the most impressive remodel videos I’ve seen. No stack of pack outs loaded with high end tools. Just making it work with what you’ve got and doing a darn good job of it.
As expected that shower is stunning! I never would've thought you'd use an envelope cut with the oblong tiles. There's an art with this trade and you gentlemen have mastered it. Love the video ❤
I rarely comment on videos but I always watch yours. Always excited to see what you have in store for us. I also wanted to let you know that I love longer videos. Keep it up👊
I’m in the middle of remodeling my bathroom right this moment, in between 50 hour weeks as a substation electrician and father of 3! I’m exhausted! Buuuuuuut the stud pack videos are a good way to alleviate some of my stress with the bathroom project. They give me a little reassurance that I’m doing things the right way, especially Kerdi! Thanks guys! Good luck in Lonestar. I might be joining you soon. California is a mess. God bless you!
Excellent Project Paul! I've missed seeing these types of projects. Always nice seeing how these projects turn out. ! Enjoy the Sun after your hardworking days guys!
I second Alconium's thoughts about your channel. Your creativity and can do attitude get me every time. One thing you've probably thought about, but should mention in the next video, is providing air inlet to the stud bay with the air admittance valve.
I really enjoy watching you all have fun. Not that the Texas house isn't fun, it has been tough. The bathroom is coming out amazing too. As someone who still gets scared to tear down drywall it is so inspiring to see what work you did in the vanity niche. Thank you so much for the videos and giving confidence!
I've had to trim the backs of vanities before. Four cuts with a simple circular saw takes care of most vanities, just make sure you dont buy one with drawers, or else you will be rebuilding them too edit: just noticed in the last second of the video that your vanity has a shelf. For those, I keep the shelf in place for my side cuts, and then remove the shelf and use the partial cut marks to trim the shelf fully with a circ/table saw
Have you guys seen Tilecoach's videos showing Kerdi failures? He shows numerous failures of the bonding flange drains on older installations, and has done flood tests using Kerdi fleece with both unmodified thinset and allset. The Kerdi fleece with unmodified thinset always fails the tests, and you can see the water penetration of the thinset behind the fleece. Worth checking out if you plan to continue using Kerdi systems, I have personally switched to Laticrete Hydroban liquid membrane...
This is correct, also the troughs made by the trowel should ALWAYS run parallel so the air has a way out when setting your tile. The way it is done here does NOT allow the air to escape. Drop a coin on different parts of each tile after the job is done and you will hear where the air pockets are. Prone to cracking just by dropping anything solid on the completed job.
Just an FYI for you in the future. Glass can very easily break when hit by a very sharp object. That's why you can hit a window with a hammer and it won't break, but if you break the ceramic off a spark plug and throw a piece at the window, it'll break instantly. The corners on those chisels can be sharp.
Recently found this channel. The transparency and the quality is fantastic. Best measure guy ever. Haha!! Your relationship with each other inspires me. Very well done sirs!!!!!
dang you all really do some awesome work, we spent so much money on remodeling our guest bathroom to make it larger, well the tile and tub work -- really has made a horrible outcome. I know the contractor who installed it back in 2010, i have told him many times how the condition is getting worser and worser, he even saw it and told me, "i will get this fixed asap--13 some years later, i remind him again, and he's like, what happened! the bottom of the tub has rust all on the bottom, i can feel water down there...the tile around the tub has gotten grout al cracked and almost gone...so when i do shower, i am sure water gets behind the tiles...and the wall on the opposite side of the faucets has rotted as well...luckily its not a load baring wall. We have no funds to even get it redone. Due to covid the nest egg has all gone -- paycheck by paycheck now. I am sure if the Stud Pack seen how this contractor did the job they be like, "woah this is the worse we seen...or atleast one of the worst!"
I sure do wish I had seen this around 2010 when I tiled my floors at a place where I used to live. Then it would have helped me a lot in 2017 or 2018 when I tiled the tub surround. Being a rank novice I learned a whole lot from you all watching this without doing a project around the house. Truly masterful work done with a fun filled spirit. Thanks for sharing. If nothing else, This looks like it could almost bring a novice who has no experience whatsoever up to speed doing such a project. Great videography and clear demonstrations. I found this not only informative but entertaining, too! Kudos to all of you, and especially to dad!
Can't wait to see Jordan's garage construction start, but it's great to see a brief intermission project that's not full of delays and two-steps-back (aka rain). This bathroom is gonna look killer!
Check historical annual rainfall records by month for Houston. The period they have struggled through so far is typically the best part of the year - when the least rain falls. (Annual rainfall: December-April 85 mm/month, May 118 mm/month, June-October rising to 132 mm/month before slowing into the 'dry' season toward the end of the year.)
@@StudPack Paul - You guys erred greatly by pushing ahead with the garage concrete work before first creating a drainage system for the lot. You need to install a gridwork of direct burial drainpipe throughout the lot back in Houston. You can do this quickly and at relatively little expense using 4" diameter semi-flexible corrugated black drainpipe the kind with perforations along its length. Farmers use to drain wet spots in their fields. Your drain system will be installed about 3 feet underground (above the clay layer) based upon the soil report you cited. You will have 3-4 runs of the drainpipe (mains) that extend the entire length of the lot and are spaced out across the lot. You will connect between these mains with 4-6 runs (laterals) of the same type of drainpipe spaced out along the length of the lot. The drainage grid should have a continuous slope from the back of the lot to the street and a continuous cross-slope from one side of the lot to the side where your drain system connects to the municipal storm sewer. The drain opening you have pointed to in previous videos that is in the street beside the future driveway is important for surface water runoff, but that drain opening does nothing to address the subsurface water that has saturated your lot's soil. The drain system you need to construct will be 3 feet or so underground and will connect to an underground municipal storm drain line that will likely be 6 feet or more below the surface of the street. One of the drainpipe mains should have run directly under the garage concrete pad location. It would have accommodated a floor drain - the one you chose to omit for the garage floor - and that same drain line would have demonstrated its worth when the heavy rainfall filled the trenches you excavated for the garage concrete. The longer you ignore the need to properly drain the subsurface soil, the larger your problems are going to grow over time. The concrete pads you pour are effectively boats floating on wet soil beneath. Without proper drainage, the soil will become unstable and is likely to begin to fail in shear mode - meaning the foundation will tend to displace (slide away) from its original position and that will cause uneven settling. The process will be slow, but it will be sure as gravity propels it. Keep in mind that taller structures only make the condition worse.
@@jefferywright4204 that’s interesting and seems pretty insightful. I’d love to hear Jordan and Paul address the issue of subsurface drainage in a future video
Great video & teaching. Just a note of advice from a "tiler". Always dampen the subfloor before applying thinset. It removes any dust that has accumulated as well as keeps the thinset from drying out before the backerboard or membrane is applied.
Awesome work as always, but was it just a miss on the vanity? They make vanities only 15 or 16 inches deep. Definitely 18 inches deep is available. They would have probably fit into the existing area without all the remodel work.
I watch your videos faithfully. I'm gonna start my family business. I made a ton of mistakes. I'm learned alot from your videos. My tile had got way more better
Love the channel! Just missed y’all in Kauai, was there last weekend. Recognize the view from the Royal Sonesta! I used to live near your Texas build in Magnolia! I had a home built there in ’98. Your project bring back a lot of memories dealing with the Texas elements. Soon the rains will stop and it will be the heat that’s your enemy. Keep up the good work! Always informative as well as entertaining!!
You mentioned that you had a reason why you ran the tile horizontally on the big wall, but I don't think you ever explained why. Did it have to do with the little shelf?
Just watched the entire video lol. I'm liking that envelope cut. Looks really cool. You guys should have a legit show. I think a lot of people would watch it.
A little tip for the grouting. After your grout has dried. Place painters tape along the edges of the seams & hit it with rostellum, neverwet. You'll never have to worry about mildew... EVER ! Did it 5 years ago & still have not encountered mildew.
thanks....that was great. We have a condo just down the path from your house. Wish you were our contractor when we are ready to do our bathroom remodel.
Love the tips. I'm a tile salesman and one bit of advice is don't use red guard, the number of horror stories I heard are one too many. Latecrete and Mapei have cheaper options that are significantly better.
Thanks, you guys are doing a great job keeping things interesting and educational. I also want to say a great job on your attitude and manners. There is a lot of stuff on the internet that starts off ok but the language goes vulgar and people start being rude etc...GOD Bless Ya'll !!! David
I’ve run into the same vanity issue you are. In your situation idda taken a look at putting the vanity caddy corner to the pony wall. That would have given you another chance to strength at wall by having some 45 degree wall framing in the corner
The envelope cut looks better when the cut goes from the corner of the shower to the corner of the shower drain! I am not a fan of pre-made sloped pans, and I understand why you used what you used and ended up with the X in that location. When pre made deck mud is not available, you can always buy type 1 Portland cement and sand to make your own!
Greatly appreciate your videos. I just found you and subbed. We live in Puerto Rico and feel the supply issues here too. If something is new or out of stock, you just find a workaround or the job waits. DIY family fun.
Your thinset should ALWAYS be combed the same direction under each tile so when you set the tile all of the air can travel through the troughs that you made in order to escape and allow the tile to have the most contact with thinset and minimal air pockets. The way you have combed your thinset with intersecting channels does not allow the air to escape and therefore you do not achieve sufficient contact for you tile. This job would be rejected by ANY qualified inspector. Sorry fellas but I see lots of comments by people that have no idea that this is done incorrectly. Just drop a coin on the tiles after the job is finished and you will hear the difference in the tiles that are stuck properly and those which are not. MY EDIT type in incorrect tile setting and you will see "trowel and error" shows a clear piece of glass set the way you have set the tile and they show the way I am correctly pointing out. The man then smashes the tiles to show just how poorly the tiles are set by having intersecting channels like you have done here.
Is there a way to add a curve to the front of that vanity top? Perhaps find a local granite shop that could make that top into a curved front to put it behind the edge of the door stop. Trim the vanity base to flush with the edge of the door frame.
Memories of a master bath remodel in the early 1970s. Dad's architectural plans were calculated to the itty-bittiest detail including all the grout lines -- except for the one thing he hadn't counted on: there's always a wee bit of warpage on a porcelain bathtub. The elderly tileman and I had to do some seat-of-the-pants improvisation to make things come out level. Well, it's always something as Roseanne Rosannadanna used to say.
That looks awesome!! I avoided all those shower floor cuts and moving the drain by using a line drain.I woukd have used a grout darker than the flooring tile. It makes it look more like a wood floor.
22:00 that is the one tool I hate to use. The pipe always melts back together and in the end all hell breaks loose . I haven’t had it drop into the drain yet. Good tip! I always leave the stub out unglued at the trap. That way I dont ever have to use that tool! Just measure, pull it out and cut it. Glue it back in. Lemon squeezey
Had the exact problem with the vanity 10 years ago. Did the niche like you did (with glued drywall etc to the back) bought a 10.5 in deep vanity from Ikea. Has worked great!
In construction, if you aint bleeding you aint been working. I noticed pops had some blood on his hand during the drain install. Good on you pops! You be working, workin hard/
Great to see an example of using the kerdi pan+drain joined to durock walls. Anyone using schluter seems to use it for everything, and while I can justify the cost of the pan, I'm building a big shower, and kerdi board is soooo expensive.
If your GFI outlet is on a separate circuit and a higher amperage than the light circuit, then you need to partition the box to meet code. Current code requires a dedicated 20A circuit to a single bathroom outlet(s), so if the light circuit is 15A, they have to be segregated either in separate work boxes or with a box partition.
I know data, communications, etc. need to be separated from 120V. See 15A and 20A in the same box all the time. If it's current code must be very new (reference??)
Man... I am trying to learn all the stuff you guys do so I can remodel my small bathroom. You guys sure know what you're doing. I'm envious. Thanks for sharing what you know and you do such a good job with your videos. I've watched your videos from years ago. Good job! 👍
Unmodified thin-set rely on air to dry and on modified offer a more durable bond and don’t need air to dry, and they stick in about anything since they add additional polymers such as latex. I don’t see why people even use unmodified anymore??
Once you've tightened the chuck on your drill, back it off just a "har' and you'll feel a small click. That sets the chuck, so it won't loosen up on you.
I found after many time using the wet sponge method, that after you get the bult of grout cleaned off & you've still have that dust film. I just use an old dry tee shirt. It cleans it off & you don't involve dirty water to it anymore. You just shake the dust out of the cloth.
I would have used plywood to clue to the sheet rock above the vanity rather than gluing sheet rock to sheet rock. It would be much stronger with plywood. In addition, I always use a vapor barrier on the framing before attaching the cement board.
I fit bathrooms for a living and with a little care, the tray tile grout lines could have matched the wall tile lines. A floor tile grout line doesn’t match up by the drain. The mismatch would drive me mad, although, I wouldn’t have those mistakes in the first place.
Love your work, guys! You always seem to come up with such clever solutions. I do have that tell you Paul that you've got a lot of guts working barefoot in a contruction zone!
