The Top 10 BIGGEST MISTAKES in Car Audio. How to do it right! 

Usually an extra battery and upgraded one up front is fine for something

Most stock electrical will be fine under 1500 watts total. I've ran plenty of systems 900-1500 total (400 RMS on doors and 500-1000RMS on sub) and have been fine. Done it on many different vehicles. As long as you have a decent battery and don't play it when the car isn't running you'll be fine. My stereo would kill my battery inside 2 songs if the car was off.

If you're running a true 1000 watt rms like a JL 1000/1 you will need a small secondary battery and a big 3 won't hurt. You will most likely notice the headlights dimming

So im guessing running 2400 watts on stock electrical is a thumbs down​@@derekgardin1512

​@@derekgardin1512what do you think 1800w would do to stock

Thanks man 😎

Thanks man! I appreciate the support!

Thanks!

fr tho

It's not as easy as you think to get loud there is actually a bunch of science with it I have seen people blow 100,000k in a system and get smoked by someone with a qtr of the power I have personally spent around 600$ just in wood building different boxes to get a few extra db

@@rodneycrandall1887 tbh it is easy if you just looking to add somemore bass to your music I have a simple set up I’ve been running with for a while now I’ve only changed my subs and the boxes no wood work not much tuning and I’ve changed all my wires like twice @kerry bray starting out is easy building on it gets tricky

You can be loud with 1000 watts if you know what your doing

Yep

If you have A strong under hood battery and big 3 you should be good. Tho most HO alts put out only half power at idle. So if lights dimming with bass you will likely need to raise idle rpm or add a supplemental battery.

Thanks!

@Swen-bk3kz not true. You select wire size based on your load, then your overcurrent device is sized to keep your wiring from overheating. Read the NEC or any number of SAE papers, if you think otherwise.

Awesome. Thanks!

Thanks for the feedback! Nice setup!

What are your battery , electrical and alternator upgrades I’m planning something for a Tahoe I’d say 10-15k watts

Let me know what you need help with. No problem

Thanks!

Thanks!

Appreciate it!

Yes it is . But we stop saying dope 10 years ago

Thank you!

Thanks! Much appreciated!

Thanks man cool

Awesome. Thanks

Thanks brother

Thanks for the input.... Absolutely right!

Thanks man. Much appreciated!

Thanks man!

Thanks for the feedback!

Thanks for the support! Greatly appreciated!

In all honesty you should be good for the time being unless your battery is old/weak. If your lights dim when the bass hits, that’s a sign you don’t have enough reserve power. Doing a big-3 upgrade will help A lot if you have not done so also. If doing big-3 is not enough, then need good under hood battery, if that is not enough, you need a aux battery in the trunk, if that’s not enough, then time for a new HO alternator. But that is usually the case in the 2000watt+ rms range

Also, thanks for sorting the channel!

It sings like you will be okay 👌 remember, if you are pushing out more power than you need you can always compensate by reducing your gains on your amp. Arc that power level, probably just getting a really good under hood battery with big-3 upgrade would suffice

If 150watt rms, and if running a pair, I’d do a 300 watt rms amp and set gain properly for headroom. If running 4 speakers, then a 600rms amp. If the 150 watt is max power, then RMS is typically half that so just cut those numbers in half

@@NextLevelCarAudio ok cool, thank you so much! 🙂👍

Sure thing man. Anytime

You fuse the wire to protect the wire. I run zero gauge and do 350 amp fuses

You bet! Thank you

😆

Thanks! If your gain is adjusted properly, then you can turn the bass up yes. But if your gain is set too high and you turn the bass all the way up, then bad news for your gear

You should be more than okay... just set gain a little more “conservative” than you would. Typically to not overwork your amps. With rise, you will be well over 2 probably closer to 3. So yeah buddy, that’s what I’d do!

@@NextLevelCarAudio Thanks!

Sure thing!

I'm running 2 xvf 12s on an rp4500.1d wired down to a half ohm. It's been 15 months now and everything is still running fine. I couldn't imagine being wired at 2 or 3 ohms I would be losing so much power. I'm thinking of grabbing another 4500.1d and a 3rd vxf 12 and strapping the amps.

Awesome man!

Thanks!!

Thanks!

Awesome man

1) 2,500 watts is quite a bit for a purely stock electrical. at just 1,500 watts i'd consider upgrading your main battery to a AGM, doing the big 3 upgrade and getting one of these: www.down4soundshop.com/xs-power-xp750-ck-xp-flex-4-awg-1000-1500w-install-kit-and-xp750-battery-combo-with-511-mount/ at 2,500 watts, you would need even a bigger supplemental battery or a 2nd XP750 wired in parallel. 2) Some subs can take a lot more than RMS ratings, some not so much.... always best to get an amp at RMS and set gains properly. but if you want headroom which is not a bad thing.... then get one a little bigger and set gains conservitavely accordingly. say you have 2 500 watt rms subs.... you will have no issue getting a 1,500 watt rms amp and setting the gains properly. See my other video on setting gains by ear here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-6BdKX70rlP4.html 3) You could very well damage your equipment.... you got to understand electricity. When voltage drops, current increases. Current created thermal energy (heat). Electronics do not like heat. so yes.... try not to run your system anywhere below 12.3-12.5 volts.... if your dropping below that.... you need to upgrade your electrical. Hope all this helped. take care and thanks for supporting my channel.

Glad it helped :)

Thanks!

Thanks man!

Sorry for the late reply, this comment was buried and just got to it. If your under 1000 watts I would not worry about it one bit. Under 2000 probably big-3 and upgraded under hood battery

If they are running on same electrical system then yes they should match. If isolated like my setup they don’t have to. Check out my dual alternator setup here: answers all your questions ;) ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uhMynTkcokU.html

You got it! Exactly! Check out my last video here where I ran a cheap sub on my 12k amp on over 10 times more power and it did not even get warm. Confirming it is better to over Power than under power your speakers. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-jgyDUSrX_mM.html

Thanks 🙏

Thanks for the support and feedback

Thanks!

Thanks for the support and kind words. I’d definitely do High pass between 100-125hz. Just so they don’t get overworked with the frequencies your subs should be handling.

Yes! Within 18” from every positive power wire.

You’d be pushing it I think. would not hurt to have an extra battery in the back.

Sundown SFB 8k best bang for the buck and give you all the power you need

@@NextLevelCarAudio Thank you so much!!! could I pay you for advice for a complete setup?

No need to pay me man. If you want to PM me follow me on Instagram and message me on there. I’ll do what I can to help

@@NextLevelCarAudio 8k for 2k? 💀💀😭😭

Make sure they get shielded! Double or triple shielded would be best to eliminate potential signal interference! Also nylon jacketed is a nice extra layer of protection.

Hell yes

Thanks man, appreciate the support!

Im still unsure on where I want the amps I do want a good air flow from the ac to them because I have seen overheat and pop

You can use tweeter method. But not as actuate for me as setting by ear. And not nearly as accurate as using o-scope. Check out my video on my channel on setting gain using cheap $40 o-scope. Here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hQOPP-l3AMo.html

Good idea. That’s what I’d do 💯

Are they dual 2 or 4 ohm? And what is rms rating on the subs and rms rating on amp @1 ohm? Need that Info to give you the best answer. Thanks

That’s correct. When bridging a 2 channel amp the specs almost always call for a 4ohm minimum load. Because It will be giving the 4ohm speaker 2ohm power so to speak

You can factory integrate into your existing head unit. No problem. I’d get a good set of components. (Woofer,tweeter,crossover) for your front doors, and an amp to power them. Then a subwoofer and amp for your trunk. Size/power depending on how hard you want to bump