The Truth About Matching Amplifier Power to Loudspeakers 

I want life size, cardboard, cutouts of Gene and Hugo to put up in the back of my theater

Back in the 60's I was given the advice: Too much (clean)Power will not destroy a speaker, distortion will. I guess the corollary would be the cleaner the amp, the safer the speaker. The efficiency of the speaker is probably also more important than the "power capacity". This has served me well over the years. I am using a pair of 30yr old CV351s that needed a resurround due to age. A pair of Klipsch Forte IIs that are going strong after 26yrs, I did replace the X-over on them. However, I also have a Klipsch powered subwoofer that needed a complete rebuild because the amp went bad.

Nice point about the harmonics from clipping. I try to explain that to neophytes, but without graphic aids, it's hard to get through. My first good stereo had a 40 wpc integrated amp and a nice pair of 3-way speakers. Although the amp featured (new for then) LED power meters, I was regularly losing tweeters to clipping as I tried to get just a little more loudness. Same speakers with a 100 wpc amp, no problem. Later I had speakers rated at 75W apiece, and used a 300 wpc amp to drive them. As long as the pre-clipping lights never came on, the speakers never complained. A drunk friend who knew better finally destroyed all the drivers by "turning it up to 11" (and ended our friendship) after a decade of abuse, but I never lost a driver before that.

Im 63 y/o and I cant hear anything above 12khz. Test yourself by downloading the frequencies,youll be surprised more often than not!

Early in the 1800's the Frenchman, Joseph Fourier, realized that any periodic waveform is equivalent to a summation of sines and/or cosines where each has a particular frequency and amplitude. Each of these sine or cosine wave forms is called a component of the Fourier series. The only frequencies present are the frequency of the original waveform, called the fundamental frequency, and integer multiples of the fundamental, called harmonics. The amplitude of each frequency can be calculated. If the original waveform represents a voltage applied across a resistance, then the amplitude of each of the sines and cosines corresponds to the voltage of each of the Fourier components. Since the amplitude of a sine wave is the height of the peak, then the power that that sine wave delivers to a resistance of R ohms is the square of the amplitude divided by (2 x R). If we have an amplifier that can continuously supply a sinusoidal waveform of amplitude, say 28.28 volts peak, to a resistance of 8 ohms, and the amplifier is on the verge of clipping, then we could safely call that a 50-W amplifier. If the input signal were large enough and there was no limiter, then the signal could be increased into clipping by the amplifier. The worst case of clipping would be for the sinusoidal waveform to be made into a square wave. The amplitude of the fundamental sinusoidal Fourier component of a square wave is 4/pi x 28.28 = 1.273 x 28.28 = 36.0 Vpeak, and the power to the 8-ohm resistor is 81.0 W (36 x 36/(2 x 8)). In the case of a clipped sinusoidal signal, there are no even harmonics. The only harmonics are at odd multiples of the fundamental frequency. Therefore, there is a harmonic at 3 times the fundamental. It's amplitude is 12.0 Vpeak. The power supplied to the 8-ohm resistance by this harmonic is a mere 9.01 W. The amplitude of the harmonic with a frequency of 5 times the fundamental is 7.20 Vp, and the power supplied is 3.24 W. The numbers for the harmonic at 7 times the frequency, are 5.14 Vp and 1.65 W. For 9 times the frequency, 4.00 Vp and 1.00 W. The total amount of power delivered to the 8-ohm resistance by the square wave is the square of the amplitude of the square wave (28.28 Vp)^2 divided by 8 ohms = 100.0 W. So, for all square waves (and very severely clipped sine waves), 81% of the total power is in the fundamental, 9.0% at 3 times the fundamental freq., 3.24% at 5 time the freq., 1.65% at 7 times, and so on. Based on what I have said up to now, I think it highly unlikely that there would be enough power in the harmonics of a clipped sine wave to damage a tweeter, unless the fundamental frequency of the clipped sinusoidal wave is above the cross-over frequency. In that case even the 81% of the power would be applied to the tweeter. I've done more looking into this matter of clipping since I wrote the first part of this post. I have made a graph of the instantaneous power (as opposed to the average power over time) of the Fourier coefficients at 7 times the fundamental frequency (tweeter frequencies in my case) and above, and I see that there are 4 instantaneous power peaks per period of the clipped sinusoidal waveform, each peak occurs at the "corners" of the clipped waveform. The amplitude of the power peaks can be greater than 6 times the average power in those selected frequencies, depending on how much of the waveform is clipped. These power peaks in the signals fed to the tweeter may very well be the reason that clipped wave forms cause tweeter drivers to fail.

It was a nice video and I appreciate the disclosure, but I feel no further from a helpful resolution... Its missing a simple take away or "rule of thumb"

I have a topic you could talk about. How about covering protecting your home theater setup. Surge protectors, UPC's, power conditioners, ect.

They forgot one thing about clipping. Since the wave form becomes more SQUARE wave form at the peaks, the sustained voltage does NOT allow the voice coil to move. It is forced to one end or the other of the throw. Voice coils rely on the movement to move the air which cools the coil. By NOT moving for long durations the cooling is not happening and the current in the coil is higher than normal and causes excessive heat. That is what burns up the voice coils.

You can hear when your speaker\amplifier begins to reach outside of it's design limits... If you listen you will know when you've gone too far... When things begin to thin out or bottom out just bring back the volume to restore proper operating balance and fullness... The key is to get to know your system's capabilities by SLOWLY turning up the volume using various different source material and listening for EARLY cues that you are hitting the wall, then pull back and don't go there again.

I don't think that you needed the Schwarzenegger pic. Should have used Hugo.

When I hear all this talk, I am wondering just HOW loud are you guys listening?! When does this ever become a problem? I have 2x 250W in to speakers rated 90-140W, and before I ever start worrying about my system, I start worrying about the neighbours...

Gene, Hugo, many thanks! I had this issue bugging me some weeks ago, when I bought Atohm GT1 shelf speakers 100W RMS, 200W peak @ 6 ohm. I received suggestions to go for an integrated that would serve 200W RMS @ 8 ohm, but settled for a Lumin M1, that only serves 60W @ 8 ohm, and sounds just great for my current level of understanding. I pissed off a lot of people during my research, including Crown Audio and Atohm engineers. I held my patience and did not write to you, but you somehow sensed the need and published this video. So, now my simple question is - Should I plan to upgrade the amp to "more"? Thanks!

Did you just call Time by Pink Floyd "The Clock Song"

The lighting and video quality is so much better on this video! A little blue but so much better than before! Thank you guys!

Clipping is your enemy! Always get a receiver or amp that is far beyond the speakers rated capabilities. No distortion, no failure. Simplistic to be sure, but a rule to live by.

I have tried Klipsh, Golden Ear, JBL, Altec, Polk and Bose with the same Sony receiver. The difference was amazing to me. The price range of these speakers are 1K up. In the past, I bought my own speakers for cabinets I have made. I have tried different cross overs as well. These men are experts.

When connecting from power amp to active speakers, can I use microphone cable or speaker cable?

I want to see Gene and Hugo's silhouettes in an episode of Mystery Science Theatre 3000 with an infomercial for Audioquest playing. Now that would be entertaining!

Distortion of tweeters is easily audible. Low frequencies are harder to define. Under 100 Hz, 10% distortion can’t be heard by the majority.

Noone has commented on the lamp reacting to their voices? And it has a galaxy on it!

Where's the hearing loss article referred to in the vid?

I always say to people its the amp that produces the sound not the speakers. The speaker just does what the amp tells it. I Always go by the rule that as long as the amp don't exceed the max power handling of a speaker your good. I go for about 20% more then the speakers RMS and I ignore the max power unless my amp is 30-40% more so I know my max volume I can go on my amp so I don't drastically shorten the lifespan of the drivers. Under powering is way way way worse and I hear so many people say well as least you won't blow your speaker wrong wrong so wrong. If a speaker say its 50 RMS then the amp must at least match it or the amp will clip as that speaker will demand 50 watts and if your amp can't it will clip the signal and boom buy buy speaker. Good but you won't have any headroom in the amp if its matched always go over and don't push the amp and your speakers won't distort

i have purchased 6 ceiling speaker at 20-350 watts per speaker. the impedance listed at 8 ohms and 95 db . my amplifier is a wall mounted two channel at 20 watts per channel total 40 watt output. the impedance rating is 4 and 8 ohms. the back of the amplifier allows for 2 speaker connection can i connect all 6 speakers to this amplifier? 3 speaker per connection. how would the sound quality be? is there a chance to damage the speakers or amplifier? thank you

I was trying to find the link to the article about hearing loss but I couldn't.

I have been thinking about matching my speakers to my amp for a while. It’s usually the ohms I look at. My recover has two output channels (pioneer sa1270) recommends 6 to 8 ohms. I have a pair of pioneer CS-G303 and a pair of pioneer CS-77 and the CS-77 is 6 ohms and the CS-G303 is 8 ohms rated respectfully.

Correct, but modern output limiters on amps prevent tweeters being blown if the amps and cabs are matched properly. The whole "buy double the power you need" doesn't really apply anymore. Buy amps that are accurately rated, match them appropriately taking into account impedance and number of cabs used, and run the cabs and the amps only up to half their capacity. Place subs, for instance, in corners so you can get more gain in the room for less voltage. Treat that room acoustically so you don't feel the need to crank it up to push past the distortion introduced by the room surfaces. Speakers will sound better and last; amp will sound better and last longer. If the output limiter on the amp ever triggers, turn it way down, let the amp and speakers cool for a minute and then turn it to back up to half the voltage or less (-6dBVu) what you had it before. Yes, more and better is useful, as you are further away from its limits at lower volumes, thus lower distortion at the levels you use the system. This is particularly useful for the speakers themselves, as even in their linear range, it's still a linear increase in distortion as voltage rises.

Didn't cover under powered speaker issues. I have a pair of 1978 Sansui sp3500 rated @100 watts and are very well driven by a nak TA-1A Stasis amp rated @45 watts! And my Avid 103s are half as loud but still sounds great.

0:11 You're pumped up Gene? Hugo's the one who's pumped up... ;) Keep up the great video's guys.

Ok I have a pair of Polk audio RTI A7 rated 20-300 watts rms??? How much power do they "need" to drive them properly???

Maybe a strong argument for active speakers, where the matching has been done by the manufacturer?

Thanks for your time and expertise guys

I can remember the Klipsch Corner horns driven with my Sony Walkman in the 70's it was so loud it would drive you out of the room. It does not take much power to drive most speakers these days given that we have subs taking on a lot of that power need away from the amp and using it's own internal amp but the power you do have needs to be clean high current. Most persons do not know how loud you can get music to play at 8 watts of actual usable high quality power.

Here's a question for you: What if you have an amplifier that's way more powerful than you speakers, like say 4x the RMS power, but you just don't crank it up? Seems to me it would be ok. Lots of headroom. I could see it being a problem if you turn it up way past the power rating of the speakers, they will be overdriven.

Personally, I ignore power handling figures for speakers. I look at speaker sensitivity related to an amp’s RMS output per channel, and the speaker’s impedance curve in relation to the current able to be delivered by the amp. Only a rough guide, though.

Thanks for doing this video. Its explained very simply and easy to understand.

Good video guys!! Informative & something I really noticed was that the sound quality was EXCELLENT. One of the best sounding videos you've made to date. Thank you for hearing is out on past posts. I know I've requested the audio to be improved one time, you guys responded that you were working on it & to be patient. Well the patience has paid off. Looking forward to the next upload...ill keep listening ;)

What about sensitivity or efficiency? You did not mention that.

It's mostly about content you're playing, a movie/song is louder than other. I have 100W with 6-ohm nominal and amp with 135W on 6-ohm and on movies at -25 main volume, the driver moves like crazy but I barely hear the bass, so it's NOT about loudness. I can play rock at insane levels but I can't play hip-hop or movies at insane levels, that's the point. I got a subwoofer to cut 60hz and below and now I don't have a problem. On movies, at -10 main volume, with 150W speakers, I still need to put crossover at 80hz, at 60hz is still too powerful for speakers, even if speakers have 40hz+ response. So matching speakers to amp, is very important. With 150W amp, I bottomed out almost every time, even if I barely heard the speaker. Also I want to mention that when I had 100W amp, I could go to 0dB main volume without damaging the speaker or bottoming out, now with 135W amp at -10dB is insanely loud, well I never tried -10 dB because I may destroy them but at-20 dB is very loud.

I have a corsair sp2500 and they rated the speaker of 230w rms using the iec method for 24hours use. It means it can handle the power for 24hours non stop.

A tweeter might handle 50w? More like 5w. For a typical home audio product anyway. Even PA compression tweeters are only rated for like 20-30w.

Good evening Mr DellaSala, Just view your video. Very awesome. I had a question though. When it comes to power there seem to be 2 schools of thoughts. one of them is that you should only take the speaker sensitivity into consideration and the peak db level you want to listen to in order to determine the proper power amp. Meaning if your speakers are 90db sensitive and you want to reach 105 db at the listening location then your power amp need to deliver 32 watts per channel .......what do you think about this theory does it make sense ?

Not what I thought this video would be. Not sure what I thought it would be to be honest, but it wasn't this lol. I guess I was thinking matching amps to certain loads, speaker designs/types and minimum power requirements to drive them. Some speakers require more power to run them correctly. Most well made speakers, and by well made I just mean decent speakers not really expensive ones, can handle much more musical power than they are rated for. Especially once they are in a proper enclosure. Like they have said before, constant tones and pink noise can destroy a driver. Program material like music and stuff isn't quite as demanding because it is always changing, it isn't a constant load. When I was younger in the 80's I built quite a few speakers using radio shack drivers. Some were only rated at 50 watts. I had no trouble driving them to 200 watts and never ruined a midrange or woofer doing it once they were in a box. I have ruined tweeters by not using cross overs or running them with too little power. Not sure why that happens, but it did and I have been told it is an issue sometimes. I would be willing to bet for most of the people buying an average speaker 100-400 dollars a speaker and your off the shelf receiver rated at 100 watts or so you are never going to blow a speaker. I have yet to do it in over 30 years. Not even with car audio using amps rated at 400 watts or more. I have ruined some amps, but never a driver. That is something else they didn't cover, is using an amp that is not powerful enough. Some of these more expensive speakers require more power to run them, or can dip to pretty low ohm loads. If your amp can't handle it will have to work its butt off and over heat and/or fail. Which could also damage the speakers. Sure, if I hook up my cheap 100 dollar polk towers to a high end 1000 watt amp you can freakin weld with and crank it up it will physically destroy them. That is just common sense. However for most of the normal people that run out to best buy and get a set of speakers and a receiver this is probably never going to be an issue. Now if you take a 300 dollar sony receiver (or similar) and hook up a bunch of planar speakers that have low sensitivity and low impedance you are probably going to have some problems. Most likely the amp will just keep shutting off though, but you never know.

I have a Pioneer 84TXSi AV 7.1, which was Pioneer's flag ship decrete amplifier at the time, in 2006), matched with Paradigm Monitor 7.v6 series speakers. I'm wondering what is your impression on this Class B amplifier and should I add a power amplifier such as Emotiva A-5175? The reason for my question is due to the 84TXSi's over all power performance of 77W (all channels driven @ 8 ohms) and 140W (2 channels driven @8 ohms) respectfully. Will adding a power amplifier smooth out the overall power output,Thank you.

Will more wattage produce better bass from the same speaker system?

Consider a speaker's power output limit is rated as 20 to 150 watts... What happens to the speakers if the speaker is powered by just 8 to 12 watts of output power?????

Concur, power is good. Generally more power is better. I'm using a couple Crown 2500s, each pushing a 350wrms 4-ohm sub and an Odyssey Lorelei (about 6 ohms and 150wrms) without any problems. I don't get stupid with the volume and I have lots of headroom. The amps are loafing.

Great video guys...no one really ever deals with this subject much in the home audio world, but in the car audio world it is big! It has been my experience, that more power is better too, even to the tweeters. There are some tools out there to measure distortion and show clipping, for setting gains to prevent it as best you can, but some sources out there that are just pure distortion unfortunately. Being a movie nut and a regular at the local IMAX enough to make friends with the manager(s), they told me of a big issue they were having with the movie XXX (triple X) and the avalanche scene blowing their speakers all the time. I told them I have the fix and he was like we had three tech's in and 1 engineer in and they couldn't solve it. Simply put they were under driving massive speakers (twin 22" flanking a massive horn) with only 200 watts powering; compounding the issue the source sound was recorded too high resulting in mostly distortion that was not cleaned up in post. I told them to buy the most powerful amps they could source from their suppliers (2000 watts, and the volume is set on 2 now), and they have never had another issue blowing a speaker in 15 years, plus I get free screenings! Here is a link to the video of the most popular tool for car audio industry...DD-1 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-np0lpIiSesU.html

How about a recommended list of reference concert DVD's & Blu Ray's based on recording quality? I'm always looking for reference quality recordings.

One time a person asked me what it hertz... i said, love hertz

holy crap just noticed the audio and video quality is awesome lol, i am so us-to the quality of the other videos :)

This is all very true. It is all common sense because you will literally hear a speaker failing instantaneously. I'm glad you guys made a video about this because most people think these things are way more complex than they really are. Nice work! 😆😆😆

I need to know if this amp and speaker will match. Proel M1500USB Powered Mixer to 2 Alto MS15 Passive Speakers. The Powered mixer has Output Power (THD

I need help. I have the Sony STR DN1040, it's obviously one of the bullshit AV out there since it says 165W x 7. It is measured at 1khz. I had been using it for 2 years with some Klipsch satellite speakers rated 8ohm. They worked fine until last weak when the right speaker started sounding bad. My question here, can I use the Polk Floor Standing Speakers, the T50'S? it says they are rated 6 ohm. I'm really lost here, please any help would be greatly appreciated.

I always hear that more power/watts is better. I have the klipsch rp8000f with a denon 3600h that gives out 80 watts with 5 channels driven. The speakers are rated at 150rms so my question is do I need an amplifier with 250+ watts like an emotiva or something more like an outlaw 5000x which does 120 watts all channels driven? Would any of those 2 amps be beneficial in someway? I always hear how an amp puts out clean power and helps with dynamic and quality but I’m not sure how much power I really need.

i have an Adcom amplifier that inflates my speakers... please help..

NECCESARY video! I can't remember how many times my friends have told me, with great proud, the amount of watts their LOUDSPEAKERS had ( ! ). To explain them that wattage AMPLIFICATION and LOUDSPEAKERS POWER HANDLING are different, but related, things has costed me more than an angry argumentation. This state of things is simply because, today, most manufacturers hide, as you point out, the real valuable specs and most retailers, of the few who last, don't have any idea about what they're selling. Next time someone will ask me HOW MANY WATTS my speakers have, I will run fast like the devil.

Buy quality speakers with a high sensitivity rating, then buy a quality (not quantity) amp or receiver. My speakers sound very good and loud with only 70w.

I have a 1974 SONY STR-7045, 100 WATS MAX PER CHANNEL. And JBL LOFT 50,S 250 WATS EACH TOWERS and JBL ES 30 BOOKSHELF 280 WATS EACH. Should I have more amp wats for better low volume sound ?

just got my elac uni-fi bookshelves, I'm looking at the emotiva A-100 A-150 or the A-300. please help, the room size is 20x16 with about 10foot ceiling.

Please help i have 500 watt BM subwoofer, now i have to purchase amp how much watt should i buy for great bass?

starting with the concept of bi-amping 3 front speakers in a multitasking simpler 5.x home theater / 2.x music listening setup, are there particular advantages that such a layout would offer towards a solution to the problems mentioned in this video regarding clipping damage or is it just as well to focus on the power capabilities that still deliver clean outputs for a set up that's not bi-amped especially considering the complexities of multiple home theater channel sound amplification, preamps / processors therein ? ... I've become curious about offerings that have multiple single-channel amplifiers in a cabinet that state they output quite a lot of power albeit I don't know whether they used pink noise or white noise for the specs. it seems to be reasonable legacy investment and risk vs reward if said amplifier delivers plenty of clean headroom/program/burst power above & beyond the appreciated output and efficiency used by the speakers.

Pro audio not just need the equipment to play loud, but do so for long durations and last many uses throughout the longevity investment....hope that makes some sense.

You will get the most performance out of a speaker with a vastly overpowered amplifier but you have to be careful of program content and level if you listen loudly. A less powerful amplifier means you don't have to worry about your kids goosing the volume and blowing them well apart from clipped tweeters A 100 watt speaker might be able to take a few hundred watts on a sparse kick drum sound with acoustic guitar in the background before mechanical failure, but continuous bass will heat up the woofer and continuous treble the tweeter.

So, turning up the volume too much on an amp without enough wattage is what blows the tweeter / speakers right? That is how clipping happens, right? You left that part out. It isn't having too many amps, but not enough for the speakers. Having too many watts isn't going to hurt it I think. And you likely won't turn it up to full volume if the wattage is a little higher than the speakers range.

Just curious on your opinion of an outlaw audio 5000 with a Sonus Faber chameleon tower/bookshelf/center 5.2 system. I am running an SR5008 as the pre/pro with svs sb12-nsd subs.

Audioholics, so if i look at 2 lovely speakers from VEF RRR that are per piece rated at: Ω 8, 3 channel floor speaker, Hz 25-25000, freq. split Hz 500 / 5000, RMS W 300 , dB 89, 23 kg or RRR speaker: Ω 4, Hz 25-25000, 4 channel floor speaker, freq. split. Hz 350/700/5000,RMS W 400, dB 89, kg 28.5 Then I need some bad @ss receiver, that gives at least 300W/400W per channel with respective 8/4 ohm. Is That right? And task is not easy, cant really find those that look nice (meant for) inside the living room. Any suggestions on some price/quality product?

I have pair of SDAT SB-E850 & well I have 0 clue into home theater sound. So I need an amp to run this system. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the Video! Helpful and live long and Prosper! So I just got a H&H 800W Tube Mos FET AMP, and 2 martin audio EM76s rated at 200W AES. It's 2 way driver... any good source info on how to hook these up proper.. also got no mixer yet... can i plug in line level to test these pups? cheers

I heard the warnings but I still don't see an end to the "under powered/over powered" amp theories

Perhaps a video from a HT website should have a white balance done. Takes 10 seconds guys. Information is top notch.

Hey can someone tell me if Blaupunkt make good 4 way 120 rms speaker cause I'm trying to decide between them and pioneers

If a 300 watt 8 ohm speaker/cabinet is parallel wired to a separate 300 watt 8 ohm speaker/cabinet (reducing the load to 4 ohms) then hooked up to a 600 watts per channel (@ 4 ohms) amp, how many watts (if run at full power/600 watts) would the amp deliver to 'each speaker' please? (This speaker load would be the same for the second amp channel also = 4 cabinets/2 cabinets per channel)

A typical vented 200 watt speaker tuned at 40-50 Hz typically will mechanically destroy at less than 50 watt around 30 Hz . In bass , electrical limits are useless , mechanical limits will put an upperbound on how many watts it can handle

Unfortunately, very few audio amplifier manufacturers actually comply with any legitimate methods for rating power amplifier output. While the FTC did mandate realistic and repeatable power ratings years ago (commonly called RMS at a stated THD level,) nebulous ratings such as "music power" are now common. For instance, I recently purchased (and returned) an Ibanez bass guitar amplifier that was rated at 300 watts of output. It's wall outlet power consumption, however, was 84 watts. Nice trick if you can actually get much more out than you put in. BTW, it had very little clean audio output, so there really was no "magic" going on inside it. Marketing tactics (also known as lies) such as these make speaker-to-amplifier matching voodoo​ at best, and make comparing amplifiers by specs alone impossible.

@Audioholics I am intending to buy a pair of Martin Logan Motion 40 and a receiver Marantz 7011. Someone suggested me to get a ext amp Peachtree Nova 300 to power the Motion 40. Isn't the Peachtree that runs @ 4ohm 450w too powerful for the speakers that only run maximum at 300w 4ohm ? Please help me understand better

Most of the "speaker wattage" handling capacity is pure BS. Most speakers used in the home CANNOT handle 100 watts continuous sine wave power without failing for any length of time over five seconds.

I have a question. I have a marantz 6011 and have gotten the whole Sony core series and they are all rated at 6 ohms and am considering getting ceiling speakers for atmos. Most of the ceiling speakers are 8 ohms and I was wondering if it would be ok do go ahead and get those or is it imperative that I get 6 ohm ceiling speakers? Also if everything is in 6 ohms should I switch the receiver to 6 ohm limit or leave it at the standar settings? Sorry for the noob question. I haven't got anything installed everything is still in the box but yeah I'd like to know your opinion on which speakers to go with. Yamaha has a 6 ohm speaker along with monoprice and monitor audio but they are kind of pricey per unit. If 8 ohms is fine I'll be getting some cheaper Yamaha speakers ns series. Thanks in advance any help is appreciated.

How do i get rid of PCM from my yamaha amp?

thank you for your video. i would like to ask you,can i match the cerwin vega cvp-2153 PA speakers with a stereo amplifier e.g. the Vincent sv-236? thank you in advance.

I never get why people crank up the volume way high, in their cars , homes, headphones etc. Even at electronic stores the sales men blast the speakers to demonstrate what ? That's not music appreciation, its just loud noise.

When I did research about matching loud speakers and amps, I should not match 200 watt to 200 watts need at less 250 wattsso don't clip and other stuff??

What happened to Hugo? Should do some new colabs if he’s still around..

i get the impression that in the YEARS hugo was such blessed with that position as marketing head he didn't read ONE paper on technical stuff. ONE. we are talking about MARKETING pumping the numbers and HE DOESN'T EVEN TRY TO EXPLAIN. I have seen lots of your videos and he didn't seem to improve on any topic over time

So is this a true statement: I never have to worry about an underpowered amp as long as I never clip the amp trying to get to my desired volume… In my case, 600 watts driving 2 speakers at 300,600,1200 watts each (jbl prx 412m) … pro audio Yes?

thanks got It but starting understand it I can have matching wattage as long as don't crank it up?but my center channel 120 watts left and right are 150 watts and amp is 170?

I have learned to distrust almost every manufacturer's power ratings for almost all 5.x and above channel receivers. With the exception of old juggernauts like Pioneer's SC-09 (great receiver, it's only drawback is the once incredible features are starting to get too dated to use be used in "today's" home theaters but still can be used as a respectable power amp), their power ratings are always inflated to some degree, and even on their best models, they often will have a LOWER stereo power rating (which is it's real accurately tested power rating) then 5 or 7 channel power rating which is a BIG red flag they are not being honest with the actual power ratings at 5 or 7 channels driver. Almost every audio expert will tell you to get an amplifier that is big enough to never "clip" when playing your speakers at the highest volumes you would ever play through those speakers (or possibly even full blast), because as Audioholics said in this video, the most common way a speaker fails (as well as the amp) is clipping the amplifier causing feedback into the tweeter that blows the tweeter or overwhelming vibrations causes the woofer's voice coil to fail. A decent speaker or amplifier will never fail if the amp has enough power to drive the speaker to the maximum volume without clipping the amp (though some cheaper speakers will still fail if they have poorly designed voice coils or crossover networks).

I have a denon avr s730h specs 75 wpc @ 8ohms 2 ch driven. 110 wpc @ 6 ohms and 130 wpc @ 4 ohms. If I set the avr @ 4 ohms, can I connect 8 ohms speakers with 100 watts and not damage avr or speaker?

audio there is something im really confused.. some say the speakers must have more wattage than the amp coz if the amp has more wattage than the speaker.. the amp will burn the speakers? then some others say the amp must have more wattage than the speakers coz if the speakers have more wattage than the amp.. tendency amp will burn! im really confuse bigtime so which really is which mr audioholics???

Are there plans to review and measure the new offerings from ELAC?

Great video. My humble NAD 3155 integrated walks all over every Harmon Kardon, Denon or Sony ES receiver I've ever owned. It even drives my bloodthirsty KEF LS50's just fine in a medium-sized room. Best amp I've ever owned.

How do you compare what you're stating with Nelson Pass's claim that it's the first watt that is most important? Hence Nelson's First Watt product line

Typical, high quality content and information -- thank you.

Really good stuff guys. Hugo, seems like you're loosing muscles, do you meed more workout?

Thank you! Great video.

Solid content as always gentlemen

If I blow a tweeter that is no longer available, what do I do?

im struggling with my setup i have b&w bookshelf 5.1 system. but the system needs to be running at between -20 and 0db to get decent volume and always sounds quiet. just cant work it out

what. did you say something?

And until next time...we want to pump... you up, on information. Thanks guys!

i bought a 400 watts speakers. it sounded like its only 50 watts