you all probably dont care at all but does anyone know a method to log back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the password. I would love any assistance you can give me
@Howard Collin Thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site thru google and im in the hacking process now. Looks like it's gonna take quite some time so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
NAILED IT BIG TIME... I will add. As soon as i could I moved to South OC and Surf trestles many times a week. HA. Good Memories of Bwall back in the 80’s and the Ave’s, but wow... Waves are WAY better somewhere else.
Crap waves. Big crowds. Cold water. Wetsuits. Sharks. Closeouts. Locals. Traffic. No parking. Did I mention cold water. Bro... life’s too short for So Cal.
Well, not all of SoCal. I consider myself lucky to live here where there are waves at least. There are a few spots, also, where there will be less than 10 people at any given time, with awesome waves too
They are right side up for the winter swell direction!! Might be to help us visualize the swell window and how waves approach South Bay during the winter.
It’s funny how a lot of locals I’ve seen in LA and other parts of California go to Hawaii and expect to get their pick in waves-especially at “local spots.” Surfing etiquette is important, but hypocrisy in your underlying localism is laughable at best. My advice? If a brother paddles out and is respectful, don’t be a dick. When I see an “out of towner,” I, like many other locals, give Aloha-something the surfing culture in California obviously lacks.
Bottom line localism is done by non-thinking hoodlums. Hypocrites, as you wisely point out. Gang members. Punks. (that's why i never respected localism very much.... Look at the character of those people. It tells you everything you need to know..... About this concept of localism. Locals only.)
@@surfingsoulisdead1763 i gave that comment a Like. Pass the respect around the world, as we travel. That makes sense. But this really isn't the kind of localism i was talking about. Those who honor a beach, have nothing to do with the locals that have threatened me. All the localism I've encountered in my life, was not by honorable people. They were thugs. I can recall one kid, I'm very sure he doesn't even surf. Gang members that hang out at a beach and they are not surfers, those are just gangs. Pure and simple. They are not athletes. Or anything of honor.
I am 44 feel like 22 inside I respect everyone and usually people around the world respect me but every once in a while their is an ignorant mutherplucker that is a sad example of a human being let alone a surfer. I have surfed so many waves that if you drop in on me once it’s ok but drop in on me twice and I will ruin the rest of your day just like you done to me. I don’t say a word and just sit right in front of the character so he has no where to go and if he tries to paddle to the side I stick to him like a magnet and make sure his session is over. Class is done for the day time to go home and think about your actions, oh and by the way I love teaching people what they are doing wrong so they can have more fun out there. It’s supposed to be fun remember that next time and respect each other or you will end up with a shitty life and that goes for everything in life.
I am 71 and was a long border back in the 60s. One thing about longboards, you can have a blast in crappy one foot surf even on the Gulf Coast. You can nose ride, do drop knee backside turns and really enjoy shifting peaks and Beach breaks.
Surfed elporto for 20 years and ditto, i could say the same thing. Then i stepped on a sting ray! Dam that hurt. Hot water relieves it. (Miracle aid, neutralize the poison, it feels like a bee sting kinda)
I was a local at Burnout Beach during the 70's and never saw or heard of a shark sighting. One time a 14' hammerhead was spotted at the Horseshoe pier and everyone freaked out.
You should keep the map north up when trying to convey information dealing with location and direction. Flipping a map from south to north is confusing and only done if you have a very specific reason. Usually the reason for changing north up is for display purposes on a static map, which isn't an issue here. Believe me, I'm a geographer with 15 years experience.
I live close to Hossegor, it is the same here, lots of pics and videos of perfect waves. The truth is that you get lots of huge closeouts. You will get nailed 9 times out of 10, but that one wave might make it into some media and foreign surfers are attracted like moths to a lightbulb. There are epic days, but few and far between. And then you have to deal with crowds. I travel up the coast now to find a quieter out of the way spots. You guys can keep flocking to Hossegor.
@@surfingsoulisdead1763 too late for that. Now, the crowd keeps ppl out. Locals aren't necessary anymore. When there's 300 guys in the water, that is a strong deterrent. (Your comment is 50 years too late)
if you do happen to pull up to a surf spot, and there's only 2 guys out, then you got lucky. It's not because nobody knows about the spot. It's either heavy localism or, more likely, nobody drove to the beach that day. (That's why it's empty) i noticed that during rainstorms, nobody drives to the beach. It's empty.
I've also surfed in the Mentawaii Islands. Here's what happens over there. It's super crowded. Then 2 hours later, everybody got tired, and the lineup is literally empty. So the point is, timing is everything. Don't paddle out into a crowded lineup. That's a waste of time. Choose your day, and choose your time of day! (Good luck)
Totally accurate until that last line about the community being a great group of people... This is the only place I've lived where you can put in your time at a spot, know how to surf, and follow etiquette for years on end and the same "locals" you see every single time you are there still treat you like you killed their dog. Petty to the point of parody, many LA surfers.
I'm from Cape Town, South Africa. Visited L.A i summer, just before covid and had a great time. Was amazed at how warm the water was and the quality of waves. Really didn't like the parking situation and crowds. In CT, if you want to avoid the crowds, you only option is to get good and/or nuts. We have howling winds and hardcore, freezing, rip your booties off and send you to Hades spots that are only populated by a small, but tight-nit CT surf community who're happy to share if you show respect.
Nicely done Brad. I grew up body surfing from Trestles to Malibu, in the 70's and I've seen way too many surf videos over those many years. You are so right about how videographers show the waves. So nice to see someone actually show what really happens. Kudos to you sir. My favorite spot - The Wedge. My home spot - Hermosa/Redondo Beach.
I won a surf contest at El Porto in the late 1970's. Big closed out waves. I think I won because I managed to catch three waves while everyone else in the final was caught inside. I caught a left that was big and hollow and got a heavy tube...which quickly ate me up. After the contest we all went to El Tarasco's to have great food. I had some really good days at the Redondo Breakwall and followed the sessions up at the Chart House with a cold cerveza.
Have you done one about north OC (not Wedge)? Some truths need to be shed. For instance, those south swells in LA shadowed by the PV peninsula actually hit our shores, but the result is also a glorified close out. Tons of walls all summer long. Without a combo swell coming from the north or west, the miles and miles of beach breaks are like OC El Portos. Seriously, spending just even a month on Oahu makes you a better surfer than 10 seasons in SoCal. Sure, we're famous for the industry/beach culture but the waves here are far from world class and the incredibly short rides don't allow you to develop your turns. There might even be a correlation as to why California hasn't seen a world champ since Curren. You'll be good at duck diving though!
Accurate! Finding places without both crowds and assholes, let alone good waves, is a tough fight around here (a bit of masochism, aiming for the coldest water and most punishing days, is a good trait to have to clear out the lineup). Give me an uncrowded crappy break any day over having to deal with the people who'll ruin everyone's session just to pretend they're pros on a 2' ripple
i grew up in so cal surfing rincon, hollister an el cap. i had no idea what heavy waves were until i moved to santa cruz. nor cal waves have more power hands down. i guarantee a 6 foot wave at el cap isnt as strong as a 2 foot wave a 4 mile.
I've been surfing venice and Santa Monica for 3 years and have never seen waves like this. It's also true what he says about crowds. You will see waves that you can catch but won't be able to....not because of your skill, but because there are so many people trying to catch the same wave.
I live super close to Venice and know for a fact that I have seen and surfed waves like this there (I have pictures). It is once every few years, but it happened 2-3 years ago.
It's exactly like the south west of France, where I am since forty long years. Best waves in winter, except the air and water are really cold. No sharks, no sting rays, though. But those barrel pictures are lies, most of them are close out, or for really good surfers only, and when you get pummeled, you'll think twice, especially after 40 years... Less people, except in summer, but it gets more and more crowded every year. And when you have good swells, you'll probably paddle and test your lungs capacity much more than you'll surf! But guess what? I still love it!
Accurate. The crowds suck, the waves are usually close outs, and all the fame-seekers and their camera crews make it look way better than it actually is.
@@chasemartino1197 Lunada Bay. It's no secret it's just everyone there is notorious for being an absolute asshole so it's uncrowded. They pop your car tires, yell you out of the water, etc.
I grew up in Orange County, surfed NB, HB, and Trestles. Moving to the South Bay was very disappointing. I lived in El Segundo but rarely surfed El Porto, giant gnarly closeouts.
Funny, I'm in philly, and i just started surfing the jersey shore. It's probably the among the most populated and busy stretches of coastline in the U.S. as the metro areas of new york and philadelphia merge across it. I expected heavy localism and fighting over scraps of waves since the east coast isn't known for it's swells. Basically what you warn of in this video. Fall 2020 has been the total opposite, meeting lots of really cool people at spots that are going off more often than not. Well, going off in an east coast way...
been pretty sweet in wilmington/coastal carolina/obx this fall/winter. Been having a good time learning how to surf and everybody is pretty cool unless you are totally in the way or a snake. Freezing my balls off though. lmao
@@trevor_mounts_music yeah the storms keep rolling thru sending swells. I only have a 3/2 and boots no hood or gloves, so i had to stop in early december up here. Cant wait for may when the water gets back into the 50s.
Love it! Moved away but used to surf the South Bay every day. I definitely took my share of beatings from all the close outs ha. Noticed lots of places aren’t mentioned. Some places hold up to big waves there! They aren’t in PV either
I agree, it's the way Google Earth loads it. earth.google.com/web/@33.84710106,-118.4838406,9.3750893a,203935.31935249d,35y,137.26645667h,7.71866777t,-0r
Our coach in surf class (ruhs 89) used to tell us, if you can surf the south bay you can surf anywhere. Because of its cove like nature, the south bay doesnt always get the best swells, the sandbar is constantly changing, etc. Try paddling out at el porto on a decent sized day, lol.
I grew up in Orange County and spent the majority of my adult life in Santa Cruz. My wife and I recently moved to LA and moved into the Riviera section of the South Bay. I moved there in the summer and I was like, "dude, there are zero waves here." Southbay not the spot to check in the summer. But met a lot of epic people and was super respectful and got some good waves at spots I'm not allowed to name. We didn't last though, and now we live in Encinitas.
Learned to surf in San Diego and Cardiff, up in the PNW now where , as we say , "There's free soup with every meal!". You never know what the winds going to do here, and often you drove 3 hours to get there so you paddle out no matter what and find a way. I've spent many a session just riding piles of foam straight in . All that makes you appreciate the good days even more .
Started surfin' Breakwater in 71. Then came oil pier (up from El Porto) Sapphire, Topaz, Ave. I when it resembled Pipeline and even Horseshoe Pier. Oh, and I mean big Breakwater. Then mid 70's to early 80's I was always (like, local always) surfing Bluff cove but my true love was / is Hag's...Haggerty's. What do you mean you can't talk about P.V.? I'm 64 now, and was surfing before those little pukes were even born.
Drainpipes ruined epic burn out ave I ... Horseshoe beat kept secret wind swell spit in California ... Army Corp dropped rocks off the breakwater basically putting an end to REALLY good consistent b-wall ... El Porto Jerry buried Grand street and stopped the sand flow to D W ... So like you I'm really stoked to have been part of south bay surfing in its day! Horseshoe burned on my b-day 88.
🤣 We never get waves like what are in the video. Maybe once every 5 years for a day or two. And guys are still trying to be aggro in the water on small days.
Brad, you're like if Bruce Brown and Warren Miller had a baby... cool video, narration and a proper description of surfing in those parts of California. It brought back some memories of living San Diego. That was many years before Covid! I wonder if it's busier now? What do you think?
Nice Footage! No, absolutely epic footage of South Bay matched by some serious shredding. Alex Gray weaving, wow! Surfed with him once, many years ago, in another corner of LA and... wow, he truly is nimble and responsive to opportunities. Freakish intuition x skill x great attitude in the water. Is there any cooler LA legend?!
Always been curious if there are spots in PV or Malibu that mostly people don’t consider “spots” and and are hard to access but that work on the right swell. A place where you’re not guaranteed to destroy your board due to unavoidable rocks. Luanda Bay and The Cove just are really mushy and kind of longboard spots.
I grew up there and surfed it off and on for 30+ years. Don't waste your time. Besides the afore mentioned crowds, localism and notoriously unpredictable, usually shitty waves even when there is a swell, there is the pollution. Don't surf in the rain or you can be sure to get sick. Keep antibiotics handy. Even when it wasn't raining, I always had lingering ear infections. Tip for El Porto... For some reason people at porto are kind of idiots. Just walk north of the parking lot and you can get waves to yourself. Everybody there are sheep and surf right out in front of their car. Or go half a mile further south from porto and get some smaller but emptier waves... The hype about PV was true. Great waves occasionally but the locals ( even though I was born and lived there as a kid in the 70's, the locals even at rat beach would harass me and steal my stuff_) I moved to Australia and am in heaven now. Surfing empty sandbar beaches and awesome points. No localism. No vibe... Good-bye California, I won't miss the cold water, shitty waves and aggro vibe...
*64 y.o. wisdom) I've surfed some of the best waves at the most localized spots in CA, Mex, and H.Islands.* *HOW?* *I keep my mouth shut, unless they ask me a question, which I respectfully answer.* *I sit back and observe until they all get a wave, which leaves me alone, outside, and usually I get the biggest set wave.* *This lets my surfing do the talking, as they all spectate paddling back out; I'm spotlighted.* *If locals want me to leave after that, I would, because I DO respect localism.* *Sometimes these LA locals would end up in OC during summer swells at my local spot Lowers; I treat them with respect, remind them where they're at, and who my friends are.* *I show them where to sit, and who surfs which way.* *These same locals (you showed 1; Michael at R.Breakwater **5:51**) would extend the same respect to me when I showed up at their break.* *There's tons of waves, don't insist on surfing waves when locals don't want you around.* *The Golden Rule; Do unto others, as you would have them do unto you!*
I grew up literally on the beach in front of the Breakwater, now called the Breakwall for some stupid reason & surfed every inch of the South Bay & knew it intimately. Some of this is true & some of it is bullshit - the tides & swell direction dictate where to get great lined up, makeable surf. I became an expert reading weather maps well before the internet. There is more than one point break to surf on the hill & those are open secrets. It was a great place to grow up & I ended up moving to a far superior stretch of coastline & never, ever looked back. This vid confirmed my choice to leave.
One great white attack was the guy that was swimming around the Manhattan Pier, right? And the shark had been trolled by that fishermen up on the pier? anyway, thanks for the vid. I haven't been in El Porto for a while. Been hanging down south and am really missing the closeouts.
@@808638 Closed out? Oceanside has hands down the most consistent beach breaks for 30 miles each direction. Shifting sandbars and hollow punchy waves. South and north jetty at the harbor can give you 100yard peeling waves on west and north west swells. Please know what your talking about before speaking.
I’ve been fortunate to surf around the world for the last 40 years and even have called Honolulu as my home break for decades. But still yet to this day the most perfect barrels I’ve ever witnessed have been at “Burnouts”... go figure?
Thanks for the video, very nice to show reality for the ones looking for a dream at surfing Cal. Just remembered I a local guy from Huntington Beach that I've talked to in the 90's in Brazil that told me a lot the same that you did.
The guy at the beginning was conor, right? I remember he was our host in el 🇸🇻...really good surfer. South Bay has some rippers but you're right...the waves here in socal leave A LOT to crave. I think everyone here although appreciative secretly dreams of being an expat at a wave-rich paradise.
Haha, You ain't lyin... I like it at 2-3 ft thats it... I've ran into way too many sharks at Porto its the reason I don't surf there in the winter but I'm still alive and everyone else is also so its all good...
You forgot Big Dume, Little Dume, Zuma, 3 points of Malibu, Lat, and Leo, and you can have County Slime even though technically it's in Ventura County. And yeah, nobody is getting attacked by sharks in LA County in the summer. But there is a reason some of the best volley ballers on earth come from the South Bay. Jake Dworski and Strider notwithstanding.
Great stuff - moved here a year ago and have been embarrassing myself on the Hermosa summer swell trying to learn. For winter - any pref S.Bay spot where the waves are less dynamic and more forgiving and where its more generally understood that those on the waves will be learning?
@Auggie Yes I know . So yeah surfing by inlets is where we could encounter them more often, but usually alot of black tip spinners are around. But there is ALWAYS that chance.
you should do one on the reality of surfing on the east coast.... the main footage will be of SUPers trying to see how many times they can stab the wave with their oars, and how wide they can get their stance so it looks like they are trying to take a poo standing up. the rest of the footage can be of ankle high unrideable waves lapping on the beach with a 20 mph offshore and 25°f wind chill.
Brad I’ve been surfing the beaches you feature in this video, Torrance, Redondo, Hermosa, Manhattan and El Porto for several decades, yet never experiened the localism mentioned.
Being from the South Bay, i resemble some of what you're saying. Manhattan Beach is a fun beachbreak. Porto gets huge but closed out. The only White attack was from an angler who hooked the juvenile from the MB Pier for 45 minutes and DIDN'T release the damn thing. A group of swimmers swam right into the fishing line and the shark got tangled up with a swimmer. Shark freaked and bit him.
Irnically Southern California in general has always seemed like one of the worst places to be a surfer to me. It has some of the world's best spots outside of the pacific islands yet it's so over-commercialised and crowded. As much as I love surfing generally, the adventure of finding a little craggy point break in the middle of nowhere has always appealled more to me than surfing great but over-crowded spots.
Surfing 🏄♂️ California is about as far from heaven as it ever could be 😅 West coast France and Portugal is where it’s at ……plenty of incredible empty waves 🌊 incredible beaches, beautiful weather, and without the California bullshit ! Plus it’s far more physically beautiful and the women too 😅oh and absolutely NO Sharks 🦈 😊
Grandma lived in hermosa so I know walled out, I remember it was kinda ghetto by the sea back in late 70s, gentrification now just plain sucks sorry to say 🏄🏽♂️
