Really glad you made this, and that P.E. is putting out a VERY solid mech platform. Won't convince me away from my custom Automags and Autocockers, but It's always appreciated to have new solid reliable mech options for those of us who want that speed to come from the user as opposed to software.
If you're changing the parts to speed up the trigger is the speed really coming from the user? What if you rigged up a full auto mechanical system? It's the same thing........you're trying to increase your rate of fire with technology. :P You could just cap your electro gun at 5bps.........done.
@@MrBottlecapBill The difference is the *Human* factor. Even the most simple, cheap Stacked Tube Blow Back Spyder or "Spyder Clone" ( If you must go this route go with Azodin as they are at the least using industry standard fittings & threads.. I would advise going with better if at all possible.) is "capable" of ROF's that vastly outstrip the user's finger speed in the speed of it's cycle. Though getting said Spyder to do so without becoming a blender is the real challenge. As for just dialing down an Electro to 5 BPS? That's fine by me, but some small local tournaments and players are VERY adamant about "Mechanical Only" staying that way as a means of keeping the tournament "pure". *If you're "ballin' on a budget" and you want your tournament Electro marker to pull double duty? Go for it! But don't be shocked if you're suddenly getting the "stink-eye" or are gettin' Razz'd HARD from mech purists or tournament officials.* In the mods presented here or on say my collection of Mechanical Autocockers and Automags? *You're not "speeding up the trigger" here, as that is 100% impossible* without the use of either a pneumatic sear trip, ( See "PneuMags" and "PneuCockers", which only make the trigger lighter/shorter in throw down to a couple of ounces in pull weight and a couple of millimeters in pull length. *They do not increase the ROF mechanically.* ) a reactive trigger, a two-stage "rocker" on the seer ( Automag Proline AutoResponse frame ) or electronics. ( or both pneumatics and electronics in the relatively rare 100% custom "Electro-Pneumags" and "Electro-Pneucockers".) All that is done here is just to smooth out the actuation of the trigger to sear leverage and shorten the mechanical travel via mechanical advantage otherwise known as applied leverage advantage. *All of the speed here is 100% human factor.* The trigger actuation, travel and reset is smoothed & shortened to the utmost degree. ( Coupled with a reasonably quick hopper of course.) If you are still slow with this or say one of my mechanical classic markers? The problem is not the mechanical interface of the marker, or "the gun is slow". The problem is that the end-user is not physically fast enough with their finger speed to achieve the desired ROF. I.E: If you're slow with this? Practice, practice, *Practice* until your dexterity and speed increase to achieve the desired Rates Of Fire. I love electronic markers and I ADORE fast markers via unconventional means such as the Boston Paintball "Reflex" kit , ProLine AutoResponse frames ,or say the Airgun Designs RT On/Off in the RT, RT Pro, ReTro Valve, and, X valve, but? I come from an era where airsmithing and speed were not dictated by software. In those days you polished up surfaces, resprung, and modified the marker to have the best pure mechanical advantage, and if you wanted speed? *The End-User had to their part as the one major deciding factor.*
Thank you u have started a whole new world for me and my uncle I recently got some money and bought a mechanical emek with an electric hopper and I am starting to get better at paintball
I would have like the see you mention price. The price as it currently is and the prices for the 2 different loadout options you mentioned. Also for the current end price what other guns or in a similar price range? And how do you think they would compare?
Trying to figure if it's worth going with the 180r for fast mechanical semi over just an etha3M or 170Mech, money no option which system can fire faster?
I just did mine for about 650..emek, pops asa, 68/4500 ninja lite w pro v2, murder machine trigger, gold pbg customs back cap, and I already had a freak barrel w gold back. Might get deadly winds valve idk
I'm on the "User Friendly" side! I replaced the feed neck with the Paintball Gateway Aluminum Speed Neck Feedneck, Exalt Aluminum Backcap, POPS on/off, Planet Eclipse Crabon Fiber Graphic print body, and use a Deadly Wind 10" Freak barrel. I'm still on the fence about the hAir 45 and trigger; just don't see the point. I tried a friend's EMEK with the hAir45 and aftermarket trigger, and I could not walk the trigger (like with an Emarker).
Go to paintball explosion they’re woodsball but we play all year long. They’re also very covid safe! They have some really fun maps even the speedball guys love. It’s in east Dundee and it’s definitely worth a visit!
@PBRML how do you like the quality of the twister body? I want one for my etha 2 but I’m concerned with the finish, especially if I want to paint it since it comes in limited colors. Thanks
Thanks for this build series. Only one thing, making this marker "your own" it still is a stock dust black color. I would have liked to see a little color added, especially with a new twister body.
The hair valve is the shit, but i did have a lrak and have to take it all apart and lube everything. Much better now though. Shoots as fast as electrics.
Hey im looking at the super stanchy customs cs1 trigger adapter for the emek, what is everyone’s thoughts on it? I heard the trigger guard isn’t good but that’s something I can deal with. I’m going to get the hair 45 either way.
I think they both use the same stock barrel. I could be wrong. The problem isn't the barrel itself though, it's the bore size it comes with. It's a bit large for most paint these days but they give you that barrel because it will work with any paint you come across. However since you only have one bore size you won't be able to make any adjustments based on the size of the paint you're using. Which means you may lose a little accuracy here and there. A multi bore kit is best but if you have say a .684 back and the stock barrel you'll probably be covered for 99% of the paint you'll come across. If you always shoot the same paint, and the stock barrel works fine then don't upgrade. Or try someone else's barrel on your gun to see if there is enough improvement worth upgrading. If you're shooting cheap low grade GI it probably won't matter lol.
Bang for buck ration. However......if you add 1000 bucks in upgrades(like this video) then it no longer holds that title, not even close. Keep it cheap.........don't get into the cold war arms race. If you want to play cheap, keep it cheap. If you want speed, don't shoot a mech gun. If you want performance and versatility go electrol
Paintball use to be Mechanical before the electronic era took over. The resurgence of Mech paintball has made the game a lot more fun most people. Different play style since you arent relying on 10bps, so movement comes into play more. Some like that they use less paint as well. Also it makes it more fun for newer players that are afraid of the higher rates of fire and probably cant afford to shoot cases of paint every weekend.
@@Smokefools6691 Don't get me wrong, I've always been a fan of different play styles, particularly playing games of hopper-ball (requires some extra strategy other than just hosing every lane you can hose). If I were younger, I'd start a club. Just seems strange for a gun that is obviously designed to look like a typical speedball gun and obviously capable of higher rate of fire. Problem is, people who buy this gun will still be thrown into walk-on games with people shooting Luxes.
@@Rick-5728 i hear what you're saying, i was just answering your question. I have an original Gtek and keep the Gmek frame on it. If I want an electronic marker I'll use my RL Marq. 😉
@@Smokefools6691 Grr....I just dug my paintball gear out of my garage after not playing for almost 10 years. My last marker was a Marq 6. I was getting all excited about taking it to play some walk-on and found out that it won't even power on :( And it's probably not worth fixing :( :( And all my tanks need to be rehydroed :( :( :(
@@Smokefools6691 Oh, and the funny thing is, the very first gun I bought in 2000, my Tippman 98, still works. It's the only one of my 6 guns that still works, lol.
stanchys products are very high quality. from his mech ions,freak boring/machine work dudes got skills.i do agree that theres really no need for a soft tip bolt on an emek for most people but not crap by any means.
