Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge to help my understanding. I have a Rockler Taper Jig and so far it is a wall hanging because I have worked around tapers...so far. I am embarking on a curly cherry table for my office and have been wrestling with a decision on how I want the legs to look. Well it looks like I am about to take the plunge, but first, I want to be sure I am going to use the best jig, because as you know, the wood I am using isn't something a box store carries.
You know my favorite tapering jig has been that matchfit made by microjig. It takes a little more time to set up a jig but once you have that it's a great tool. Thanks so much for watching Mike, really appreciate it and best of luck to you!
My comment about the last jig is, repeatability, it's not as easy to do production work unless you throw more clamps on it for registry. Great comparison video!
Excellent point gdf12349! I'm not sure I would use any of these jigs in a production shop. I would probably hand craft a jig with some plywood/MDF and some stops and clamps for that perfect fit. These are definitely more suited i think to the weekend warrior! Thanks so much for watching!
Good video. The last one is definitely the most versatile, but even as a DIY build it can get expensive for those on a budget. The Microjig clamps are ridiculously priced, and the generic knockoffs aren't much better. To get the full versatility form that jig several sets are required easily requiring $100-$150 just in clamps. Consider using a T-slot router bit and hold down clamps like the Rockler does. One can have 4 sets of hold downs for the price of 1 set of dovetail clamps. The versatility is greatly increased with up to 8 retention points. One could also install a miter bar on the underside, and still have the option of using either side of the table. The plywood base would have to be cut oversized on both sides of the bar. Then run the opposing sides through the blade on opposite sides. Like the Rockler this will customize the jig to the blade, and also retains it's bilateral functionality. I know some of your viewers like project videos , and I think his would make a good one if you chose to make it.
I TOTALLY agree. None of the prices on any of these jigs is what I would consider reasonable. Even the best one the microjig is still pricey for what it is. I think milescraft makes a little bit cheaper version, but still can get up there if you buy all of the accessories that you may want in this jig. Great idea on making one. I'm going ot put that on my list of future video ideas. Thanks so much for sharing that! Thanks so much for watching as always ST-0311!
Thank you for sharing your awesome thoughts on All these tapering jigs. They are very handy for sure. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
As a former swimmer and in later years a runner I have a love hate relationship with tapering, so far I've been able to limit my time tapering in woodworking, and kinda hope to keep it that way. Still thanks for the Saturday video, stay warm.
I really like the Rockler tapering jig...so much so that I made my own, saving myself 70 bucks. However, instead of using a miter bar, I run the jig along the fence, making sure the left-hand edge of the jig is set firmly against the blade. By the way, one of the benefits of this style jig is you can use it to cut a jointed edge on a ragged board. (Provided, of course, your table saw blade is exactly 90 degrees to the table.)
Excellent point ScottyDrake. I really should have mentioned that in this video. This is an excellent way to joint ragged boards. Thank you so much for sharing that. Very cool that you made your own "rockler" jig. I bet yours works even better. Thanks so much for sharing and watching!
I like to combine my love of exotic animals with my woodworking, that is why I use a Tapir jig. I strap the animal to my cross-cut sled, and its bucking and carrying on makes every cut a taper.
Excellent point! That’s why I like that match fit one so much. But yes, a great little afternoon project by making your own! Thanks so much for watching!
A big advantage of the "L" fence is it does not limit the length of cut as does some of the tapering jigs. It's simplicity is that you just mark the cut on the workpiece. No angles to calculate.🙂🙂
Just made my Saturday morning, Bryan puts out a new video and I'm managing to stay warm so far today! Now I've got to figure out the how, when and why to get a tapering jig. Really enjoying your channel Bryan! Keep up the good work!!!
@FlynndoggWoodwork thanks for the information. I have a question about your tablesaw...I'm looking to upgrade and I've been eyeing the sawstop...what do you mean when you said it carries a current? Do I need a way to ground it?
Great qeustion! No you will not need to ground it. You will not notice the current at all. I'm not entirely sure how the tech works and probably should read up on it more. I just know that the breaking mechanism is instigated by current. There is no special grounding needed, just the normal plug grounding. Which you will have already with your 220 outlet. Thanks so much for watching fdort!
Dogg, man, how much is that Rockler jig? Seems to me that it's about $70, hmm, could we use that money more judiciously? Fulton is $28. Unfortunately, it is very easy to cut through that support bracket and then catch hell trying to find (or fabricate) a replacement. Micro jig is $75. We're sneaking up on the money would cost to buy a new contractor's saw. By the way, do you have the Irish jig?
Haha! I've had the Irish jig my entire life! :). I'd really like to see that micro jig, it looks complicated but if I know that company I'm sure it is easy enough to figure out. Bottom line is you can absolutely make your own for sure. I know those 4 eyes guys do that all the time to trim their pieces down.
Excellent review. You didn't mention the "L" fence. Works well for tapering and straight line ripping. The Rockler jigs are good but expensive. Any woodworker worth his salt can make one for $10 or so with items either on hand or easily fabricated. I have one of the cheaper aluminum jigs. It cost me about $170 when it tripped my SawStop due to inattention on my fault.🙂🙂
Oh man, excellent point, with tripping your sawstop! Got to add those expensive break cartidges into the equation! I would really like to try the "l" fence, you are the second person to mention that, and that is something that I wasn't familiar with until you guys commented. I'm looking into those this week. Love learning about new things! Thanks so much for watching!
Great question! I have not, I've seen it many times and it looks intrigueing. Complicated but intriginging. Would definitely like to test it out in the future! Thanks for watching Tim!
You are definitely correct! This was before my shop was heated. We are heated nowadays and don't have this problem anymore. Thanks so much for watching cotandiet!
FINAL - FINAL - FINAL THOUGHT ………….using Fulton, SawStop owners. BYPASS your safety system, or you learn a very expensive - yet non-injurious, lesson!!
Great tip! I absolutely should have have pointed that out in the video. I am the king of never bypassing it. Thank you so much for the great reminder! :)
