Just one thing I wanted to make sure that people who watch this video are aware of. The governor is timed and there is a dot on the gear of it that matches up between the double dot on the cam gear. With that aside, I really appreciated this video because it really helped me out with my John Deere 400 rebuild. Keep up the great work!
I just had to review my video once more and you are correct!!! It was one of the last few parts I mounted and I did not share a close-up for the timing. The governor must be timed with the cam gear for the correct firing order. I will mention this in an upcoming video. I really appreciate your feedback Alex! Thank you & Best regards
Yah I didn't see that mark and now having a timing issue cause it wants to start but timing is still not right. If you look thru hole on top of flywheel sp is where it opens up. Then clockwise all other marks go long way around so I must be missing where you actually view timing marks.
So how you suppose to know where double dot is when you turn it to align it withe governor dot. Hope you can tell me something new so I don't have to pull it out again
Larry Superb video! Helped me rebuild my K582. Note: the Kohler 582 is just a bit larger in displacement but is otherwise the same. One significant exception is the 582 uses a fiber camshaft gear that eventually will fail. Cast gear from either a 482 or 532 will work BUT is extremely hard to find. Heating of the timing gear on the crankshaft is the way to go for installation. Timing for a 582 uses a notched tooth on the governor gear, viewed through a sight hole on the top when at TDC. I probably spent $500 for new pistons and gasket set (isavetractors) and for cylinder reboring and honing. The engine is a simple design which lends itself to rebuilding by an amateur such as myself.
Hi Larry, thank you for leaving a nice comment and I'm glad this video helped you out! That is correct, the Kohler K582 was just a shade bigger than the Kohler K532. I did not know that the K582 used a fiber camshaft gear! It's beyond me, that an engine manufacturer would use two different materials for timing gears and not expect failure!! I agree these bigger K engines are not that easy to find and if you do find them, the components are usually worn out. Either way, it's nice that you shared this information in the comment section as I believe it will help many other engine builders in the near future. You did a great job sending this out to be rebored and having it rebuilt by yourself. Now you know exactly what you have and this engine should last you many years. There will always be costs involved when it comes to rebuilding an engine, but it's usually cheaper than buying a brand-new piece of equipment. I hope you enjoyed the assembly process and I bet you'll be very happy once you get your K582 up and running again. Thanks for tuning in!! Regards Andreas
Great video again Andreas, I cannot thank you enough for showing this entire process and giving re-assurance that it is not overly complicated to do. I've just removed the engine from my 400 today and am still awaiting the new gasket kit from isavetractors. This video will help me out so much when it comes time to re-build.
Thank you so much! It really isn't hard at all. There are certain tolerances that need to be within spec and the rest is just putting the parts back onto the main block. Another piece of advice I would give you, is to try and keep your parts as clean as possible during your rebuild. It will make life much easier! I used that exact gasket kit and the pistons I ordered were from iSave Tractors as well. I will upload one more video, where I have all the shrouds on and get this engine going on a stand. This will be the brake-in process. Best regards
Thank you very much Joe! Your positive feedback is greatly appreciated and I hope I will be able to share more content like this in the near future. Best regards -Andreas
Thank you so much for this great great video! You are the only one that I can find on this particular motor and you have done an awesome job producing it. Good job. No, GREAT JOB!
Thank you for your kind words! I try my best to have everything laid out and clean around my workspace so it is visible for all viewers! I hope this will help you if you are going to rebuild a K532. Thank you again, Best regards
@@genethecook2300 That means a lot to me, especially if you can utilize multiple videos for your Bolens HT20 rebuild! I hope everything works out on your end, because then you will have an amazing garden tractor! Best regards
@@Rayhak84 I hope this video will help you out! Haha, I did it for you. You can put extra effort into your engine rebuild, so it is fully functional again. Cheers
I am confused as I watched you rebuild the k582..It was a very helpful video but I am confused and wonder if the governor should be installed a certain way...I read somewhere in the comments that the dots must line up with the camshaft..It appears that you just bolted it on (not lined up with anything)... Thanks
Hi there! So far I've only rebuilt two Kohler engines, the K532, and the K341. I answered this a few times already and I will Pin a comment here soon explaining the governor to flywheel alignment (timing). The reason why I did not show that in this video is that I wanted to film a separate video discussing this topic. Unfortunately, I did not make that video and that's why I do not have that portion. To time the governor with this engine, you want to align the governor gear to the flywheel with the teeth that are marked with indication dots. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Awesome company, Isavetractors. I buy all my old parts from him. Great video. I wonder if the kohler engine would work in a 318. I don't like the onan p218g as good
Yes, they are very helpful and have many parts available for these old machines! Thank you, John. I'm really not sure if it would be as easy as just dropping it in. Maybe you would have to modify the two engine mount brackets. I've personally never worked or run an Onan, so I cannot give you much expertise. Maybe you can find some information in a forum online. Best regards
According to the service manual provided in the description, the piston-to-bore clearance is min. 0.007" and max 0.010". In my opinion, this is very large and I opt for smaller clearances, but this is what Kohler gives you. Here you can see the bore diameter in the manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/1171009/Kohler-K532.html?page=88#manual Here you can see the piston size in the manual: www.manualslib.com/manual/1171009/Kohler-K532.html?page=89#manual I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
Hello. Great Work. I hopefully watched this Video because i have a Engine like this in a old Mower and the Owner before made a very big Salad of Wires and now i am the new Owner and i want to bring it back to Life. But i have no idea how to Connect everything...
Hi Richard, it‘s great to hear that you picked up a JD 400! Hopefully you can get the wiring sorted out with a little bit of effort😃 I made a full video on the John Deere 400 wiring and you can see it here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zaZxnkMji5w.html I hope this will help!
I had no issue getting my exhaust valve adjusted but when slowly cycling through for the intake, there isnt a position where the intake valve loosens up like the exhaust valve in order to get a feeler guage in there. What should I do?
Hi, yes the governor assembly must be timed with the engine. Both markings on the flywheel and on the governor must line up. I pinned a comment on top of the comment section for all to read. Thanks for your question. Regards Andreas
Hi Jim, thank you for your comment! I would love to work on it if you were closer, but that gives you the opportunity to rebuild a Kohler K532. Once you rebuild this engine yourself, you’ll enjoy it 10x more😃👍🏽 Regards Andreas
How do I get more info on cam shaft im having a issue with mine got hot somehow looks scorched and don't have parts list or number or instructions on to replace it. Thanks alot if you can help
Hi Michael, I'm sorry to hear about the camshaft issue you ran into. The only info I can find on the K532 camshaft is about the sleeve tolerances. Here you can view this for yourself: www.manualslib.com/manual/736034/Kohler-K482.html?page=88#manual I'm not exactly sure what would have caused a scorched camshaft, as it does not spin fast. All camshaft are always run on a ratio of 1:2. You might want to double check your camshaft clearance: Camshaft OD to camshaft bearing ID. This needs to be correct or else you will either be too tight and not have enough oil clearance. If your clearance is too large, you will have too much slop, causing parts to wear out quickly. I hope this will help with your engine repairs. Regards Andreas
Thanks for you're comment looks like end play on crank was back towards rear sticking cam out and hitting cover adding pressure to hit flywheel. But flipped pistons and rods over and it helped, last night replaced cover and shimmed out crank,but still have end play how much is allowed.
Hi unfortunately I do not have a video on how to measure pistons, or even the pistons for this engine. Some manufacturers recommend measuring pistons 90 degrees to the wrist pin (on the piston skirt) and some don't. I usually measure my pistons on the largest diameter which is 90 degrees to the wristpin, at the end of the skirt (farthest away from the top). This is ALWAYS the largest diameter of your piston and you can be sure to have good clearances. I would recommend using an outside micrometer so you can measure your parts within the thousandths of an inch. Let me know if it works out for you. Regards Andreas
On any boxer engine cylinder one and two fire at the same time. There is no „cylinder one TDC“ spec for this engine. Governor timing is done with one set of indication dots on the flywheel and governor.
Good video i am sure it would help me. To bad you put that music in and took the explanation out of what you were explaining, other then that it was a good video.
Thanks you very much! I had to replace the music, as there was a copyright issue in this video. The music runs over my speech and unfortunately I cannot redo this, based on the RU-vid settings I have... I appreciate your feedback, this helps me make better videos 👍🏻
It is my understanding that the k532 is entirely the same engine parts wise as the k482 just .030 larger bore. If that is factual then this video should be of interest Bolens 1886 owners. Sam or Rick could confirm.
That is correct! The Kohler K482, K532 and K582 are very similar engines and all components are ALMOST the same. The piston diameter and piston stroke varies between these engine models. The bore on the K482 is 3.25" on the K532 it is 3.375" and on the K582 it is 3.5". At the same time the stroke changes within these engine, thus producing a bigger volume for more air + fuel. These engines can be found literally anywhere and those with Bolens, John Deere or other garden tractors can follow many steps throughout this video. I hope that helps. Best regards
Sadly did not find photos of why you bored the cylinders out. Read you did not perform a compression test. Seems you intended to bore cylinders before you looked at them. On a 1978 motor no surprise it was probably due but were there known hours on the engine? Great job overall.
The reason I bored out the cylinders is because was cylinder was 0.004" over and the other one was 0.003" which is just within spec, but not good for my liking. The next closest size is 0.010" and that's what I decided to bore it out to. I did not perform a compression test as I knew I would rebuild the entire machine. The hour meter shows 966 original hours and that's really nothing...This way the tractor will hopefully last another 30years if not more. Thank your for your question and if you need any other information, I'll be here to help. Best regards -Andreas
Sorry about that Grant! I‘m aware that I skipped a couple clips around the timing of this engine and I‘ll consider doing more detailed videos in the near future. Regards Andreas
That was a different K532 engine I picked up off the internet. This Kohler K532 came out of the John Deere 400 at it is original to the tractor. I hope that helps.
So after getting new Pistons and putting them in, once i snug up connecting rod bolts i cant turn the motor over by hand and even with pipe wrench it's hard, but if i back the bolts off then it spins easier. Am i missing something?
If your clearances are within specifications you shouldn’t have a hard time turning over your engine. You must verify your crankshaft journals and compare them to your bearings. Once you verify the correct clearance you can assemble. In order to have a free rotating assembly, you must torque your caps on both the main bearings & con-rod bearings. That is if you clearances are to the specifications! Once torqued, the bearing shells will take shape and offer the correct clearance. If you do NOT torque them, the will still sit in an oval shape within the parts. This not a good time to rotate the engine, as the bearing shells can move or become scored. If you rotating assembly is tight, after all bolts are torqued you can have serious issues: - A bent crankshaft -Crankshaft journal issues -Bearing shell issues Etc. Let me know what you figure out
@user-rd8es2bm2r Excuse me, I thought you commented under a diesel engine rebuild video, my mistake! You can either have tight connecting rods or tight pistons. If you crankshaft rotates freely without the connecting rods bolted to them, then there is your issue. If the crankshaft does not rotate freely, you have an issue with your crankshaft bearings.
@@WorkshopRebuild it spins freely with just the crank. I did just get it bored out .10 over. The ring gap was within spec. I'm using the old connecting rods.
Is there a certain way the connecting rods have to face. One side has has a number the other side just a mark. I had pictures of them before i took them out but must have deleted them.
Great video. I have this engine. Runs fine but is getting weak. What do I check first? Would like some comment on where and where not to use thread lock or anti seize and where rebuild grease should be used.
Thanks a lot, I appreciate it! It's hard to say without hearing the engine, but my first guess would check the cylinders. If they are worn, this will cause the piston rings to spread too much and not allow enough compression to build up. You will want to do a compression test on both cylinders to see if they are according to spec. On this engine, I only used thread lock on the outside diameter of the seals I installed. I did NOT use it on any bolts internally. Al bolts are tightened to spec with the service manual in the description. Most assemblies don't rely on thread lock as the torqued, but if you want to be extremely safe you can use it. I personally like to use copper anti-seize on frame assemblies or other moving components of a vehicle. I would not recommend using anti-seize on an engine, but it's possible if you think you will need to take something apart in the near future. On the other hand, I use assembly grease as my main lubricant for moving components within an engine. Every part that is eventually lubricated with oil will receive a thin layer of assembly grease. The reason why most engine builders use this is to be able to turn the engine over multiple times before it is in running condition. The engine does not have any oil in the oil pan, therefore the assembly grease will act as the lubricant. Once the engine is run in, the assembly grease will break down and turn into oil. I prefer lubriplate, but there are many brands out there that offer a similar product. I hope this helps and if you have any other questions feel free to ask. Best regards -Andreas
@@dickwellman5529 You're more than welcome. I'm glad to share as much advice as I possibly can! Not every detail makes it into a video, therefore it is nice to communicate in the comment section. -Andreas
You could drop it off at my place, but I cannot guarantee you I will finish it in a short period of time. Especially with all the projects I'm currently working on. HAHA Best regards
Yes governor timing is important on any engine. For this engine rebuild video I did not get into that detail, because I wanted to make a separate video about it and it never happened. To time the governor with this engine, you want to align the governor gear to the flywheel with the teeth that are marked with indication dots. I hope this helps. Regards Andreas
