I always put the back on last. That way I can run a bead of caulk in all of the inside corners in the box. I know wood glue should seal it, but I like to make sure it is sealed well.
for sql there is only infinite baffle in car or at home you can not beat it have seen 18s that felt as fast as 10s needs way less space and goes down deeeeeeeeep , cherry on the cake uses very little power
That's a beautiful enclosure! The tight tolerances between the black vinyl trim ring and the main enclosure look really professional, and the basic design of it just looks very interesting visually. You made some great choices on colors and textures. The Dayton RS subs are just plain lookers too! ***Now the big question, how do you top this one? : )
Congrats on your skill building journey. You have done what many of us have considered but never done after watching some of marks videos! I commend you on your work and the this build looks really good. I hope you keep challenging yourself to get better and share the process with us.
DIY A/G, your videos have inspired me to get back into building enclosures. Something to note regarding ohm load and % THD at low ohms. For SQ the lower the ohms (1 ohm) you usually get higher THD unless your amp is super nice. Personally, i wouldn't run below 2 ohm, preferably 4 ohm for the cleanest sound. Provided the amp can still produce enough power at the higher ohm loads. I'm more of an SQL so 2 ohms seems like the sweet spot for good power without too much THD. Some people don't notice the increased THD (or care), or their enclosure is in a rattling trunk so they can't here it.
I don't think it's a big deal. And I still run a cheap 1 ohm amp I never intended to use long term because it just works fine. I think a bigger issue is a lot of kids think more excursion the better. But at xmax you're adding a lot of distortion unless the trunk is filtering it out, or you run a bandpass box to filter out the harmonic distortion.
I've been putting a whole lot of thought into the ohms vs distortion thing. I'm beginning to think it might be a myth, something that people just keep repeating but no one has ever verified to make sure it's true.
@@DIYAudioGuy I will be looking forward to you possibly cover it in the future with actual testing to put the myth to rest. Who knows what kind and how $ the test equipment would be though.
Can you make a video about getting lots of bass in a small space? I've been struggling to design a small enough box for 2 10's than can fit in my cars trunk. It seems like the only way is to sacrifice a lot of low end.
I love that you test with Techmaster PEB One of the best subwoofer test tracks ever made. Well done, sir. Excellent job on your box. Keep improving your skills. Love, this content. What was the cost on the subs?
I've had these sitting around for a couple of years now so I do not remember what I paid for them. You can hit the link in the description and it'll give you the most current pricing, Parts Express is always running a sale and you can get a discount with the code DIY5
I have two dayton audio 15s HO that I have in my house. This video is making me want to put them in my car just to see how it sounds. Sounds amazing in my house in my surround sound so I'm curious how well it'll sound in my hatchback
When I think sq sub, I am thinking morel, what I use, or focal, or a select few others, speakers like that don’t “hit hard” Or have massive xmax, they hit accurately, have a high level of speaker control, “dampening factor” , and usually only one sub is used due to phase issues of using two. But what do I know….
You really should give these a try. They are magnificent. I'm always swapping subwoofers in and out for videos, /testing etc etc. But these are my go-to. I slide this box into the truck whenever. I just want to enjoy music.
Mahalos for the DIY video, very nice. Im thinking of purchasing a Danton RSSHE 12 for a sql build in a truck, how are the Danton Audio sub line? Not much people in Hawaii run them
Can i donate to you for you to design a box for my pontiac fiero for behind the seats? i was planning on using either 2-PIONEER TS-A3000LS4 12" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer with 1,500 Watts Max. Power or maybe 2 10s.....let me know what u think
I charge for box plans, but I don't make vehicle-specific plans. To many variables, it is hard to do those without access to the vehicle. I recommend that you talk to a local shop.
I don't know much about PA speakers, Parts Express sells them. I've not seen a 10-in PA speaker designed to handle a thousand watts. And that much power isn't really necessary on a PA speaker since they are so much more efficient than car audio drivers.
hello can i ask about your video on bandpass (4th order)? you said you should tune the ported side to the fs of sealed side, but why does almost everyone tune their ported side high? example 50hz, or your just suppose to tune both side high? thank you for your vids you really helping me grow♥️
A sealed enclosure raises the fs of the driver. That is why they tend to tune to that 50Hz number because it is a typical normal rise of the sealed enclosure for a lot of subs. But every box, car and driver are different slightly. So if you want to go with custom bandpass enclosures you might want to have the ability to test and patients/finances to rebuild a lot. I have rarely met someone that goes down this rabbit whole that doesn't eventually go back to ported or sealed. Because remember the car is already a bandpass enclosure itself so adding an additional complex enclosure into that just adds more stress for tiny if any benefits. And in my opinion should only be done when no other choice is available to raise the sound levels like in a small vehicle or something and you've already maxed out wattage and subs.
last question, does a 50hz bandpass tuning (50hz fs on sealed with 50hz port) can play low notes? 33hz~40hz? or do i have to tune the sealed side even lower? thank you sir i manage to build my first box and it sounds amazing
@@LacerationAudioPinoy I don't have my notes handy so I'm trying to do this from memory. In an SPL build you want a huge ported section for a bump at a specific frequency. A smaller ported section will give a smooth response over a wider frequency band.
great Channel, i have a question, to reduce standing waves, is it a good idea to place the sub higher, more in the middle of the roomhigh not at the floor ?
I would have attached the front baffle as the last piece if possible. You attached the upper baffle between the other ones(means less glue in the joints?). Attaching on the glue may result stronger joints? Over all i really going to have that design, you made it awesome.
@@DIYAudioGuy In time my english has gone worse cause of few practice. So getting the right thing to sentence is a bit of challange considering English is not my first language.
Hey man, love your videos….I have a small confusion based on your video for gain calculation with multimeter using V= PxR So my Rockford fosgate amp is rated at 75w RMS x4 @ 4ohms or 150w RMS x 4 @ 2ohms. Now, my problem is this. I have infinity coaxial at the back rated at 60w rms @ 3 ohms and front infinity components rated at 90w rms @ 3ohms. The amp is not rated at 3ohms. Only 2 and 4 ohms. I want to set rear gains at 60w @ 3ohms and fronts at 90w @ 3. What calculation do I use in this instance. If I set the amp gain voltage to output it’s max of 75 @ 4ohms or 150 @ 4ohms, I fear I will over power my rear speakers which are 60w @ 3ohms…is there a calculator to see what my amp will dish out with a 3 ohm load based on its current factory stated rating? I don’t know why they don’t give you the max power of the amp at 3 ohms. Your help is greatly appreciated.
I hope you’re not using particleboard you’re using MDF Is it an isobaric push pull Banpass I haven’t seen your whole video but it looks good You should read heavy weight boxing. By sound stream Spl 170’s
Good enclosure and done but got no details for what subwoofers to install, what wattage, what impedance, what hertz to make it sounds perfectly as subwoofers, will you? Tnx!.
You can find a link to the subwoofers in the video description, If you watch again you will see that toward the end I measured and showed you both the impedance and the resonate frequency. I have several videos on port design, here is a good place to start: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--yopTneS7g8.htmlsi=aGkDN5XpFtTMQzaG
I have 2 ho 12's in my truck in 2cu ft sealed..they have 2k on them for the last I can't remember how many years at least 10...best sounding sub I've ever owned,sound quality is ridiculous they can get fairly loud also...if your looking for spl/piss off neighbors not gonna be sub 4 u.❤✌️
Dayton rss subs are always great subs. Ive had a pair in my truck previously 2 rss265ho44 in 3cubes gross at 36hz with cabin gain they would play down to 28hz with ease on 1500w. If anything they sounded almost empty since they had almost no sound signature. This time im trying the adire koda 10s in a similar box design with a koda 8 running front sub duties for midbass reinforcement
Such a nice clean setup. I am curious as to why the use of brads over screws? Great tip on letting the carpet overlap and cutting both layers to have perfectly mated edges. Man, that really is a great box. I have a JL Audio Stealthbox in my truck so that I can retain my back seat for kiddos, but I just build a dual 12" box that I really have no use for, but wanted to build it anyway. 😂 I have a large van that I haul a few motorcycles in, maybe I'll upgrade it from a single 8" to dual 12's. 😂 I only built the box because I have always wanted to try out a pair of Image Dynamics subs and we plan on adding a car to our stable of vehicles. 😂 thanks for the content, I really appreciate and enjoy your work.
Very nice job on that box. Your box building skills have come a long way. You are pretty much on your way to changing your name to DIY Pro audio guy. Also how is that ryobi brad nailer.
Installed a bridgeable amp in my truck a few weeks ago and picked up a .65cf prefab sealed box on clearance which is now sitting next to my desk mocking me. Thinking one of those dayton reference subs might be the missing piece I need right now.
You should test spray foam to glue your ports instead of hot glue. It works wonders, if there is space between the ABS and the wood, it will just fill it and avoid any possible noise.
That is a NICE clean build. I've lusted after those Dayton RS drivers for years, and your build has only increased that lust, LOL. A small hint - when joining the carpet at the back of the box, use a curved cut, rather than a straight line (e.g. make the cut in a long arc). It makes the point where they join together a LOT less visible, as there's no straight line for your eye to follow. Of course, the join is at the back of the box where it's not going to be visible anyway, but still ... :-). BTW, what was the target Fb you were aiming for, and what's the actual measured Fb of the box?
@@DIYAudioGuy Thanks. I asked because we had a recent discussion on the DIYAudio "Subwoofers" forum about the increasing inaccuracy of vent length calculations as vent length got longer. And I think we came up with a more accurate method to determine the correct length for a target Fb. It involves adding a portion of the volume taken up by the vent to the net volume of the box and redoing the equation. The details can be found from about post #13753 in the "Hornresp" thread.
I was shooting for something that's mostly carpet, but with a little something extra. It will be fairly cheap and affordable to reproduce this just using different shades of carpet.
@@DIYAudioGuy your videos are ALWAYS very DIY friendly. I feel your exactly what our little community needs. And it's nice to see us old guys still love the bass 😂😂
I have 2 comments. Your box building has gotten much better. 2nd I have always thought if your going for SQ that a sealed box sounds better. That's just my opinion. I'd like to see the subs in a sealed box to see the response. Keep up the great work.
I don't think that sealed is better for sound quality. I've been hearing people say that my entire life, but there are tons of high-end home audio speakers out there that use ported enclosures.
Sound Quality and car audio are two things that don't really belong in the same sentence unless you do major work to the vehicle first. The sound quality difference between sealed and ported is unlikely to be heard in a vehicle without all the work. Also, sound quality is highly subjective anyway, unless your talking about competition level, which means you intend to do all the vehicle work if have any chance of pulling it off. For a general, all around, daily driver system, sealed or ported does perfectly fine. Sealed takes up less space, easier to build, but won't be as loud as ported with the same power, but will still be plenty loud.
It depends on what subwoofer you are using , but generally sound quality subs that are designed for a sealed box do tend to have broader frequency response and blend with the midbass better. This is because the nature of a ported enclosure, but that can be fixed with bigger and better midbass speakers. A ported box can sound as good as a sealed setup as far as the way the bass sounds, its just harder to make your whole system have the complete spectrum of sound at the same level.
You are improving with every build. This motivates me looking forward to my upcoming projects. Btw. I find those dayton references cones really elegant looking
@@DIYAudioGuy I've seen single 8's go to at least 130db at 30 hz. But that's not with a Dayton which is unfortunately 300w RMS. Still cool to see what we can do with an 8" for an average daily driver
If it's an avg daily driver, why would you care about getting super loud with an 8"? If you want proper bass, 8" doesn't cut it. 8" and smaller subs are a nonsense trend with these companies trying to push big wattage thru them are just looking to get paid by the fad followers. The amount of space it takes for a high powered 8" you can easily fit a 10" or most likely a 12" and get better results. The problem with "avg daily drivers" is the max power you can have on the alternator without causing problems. Most factory alts can handle about 1,500 watts total system power before lights start to blink and other issues. Figure 400/500 of that for main speakers, you have about 1,000 left for subs. 1,000 on a 12 is going to be a whole lot better then an 8.
@@vilmfilm You literally mentioned somebody getting 130db with an 8 and you don't think that is loud for an avg daily driver? Was that on music or just an SPL fart?
That box came out very clean. I'm not a fan of carpet but I really dig the look. If you have an iPad, you could record a video with the UMIK-1 connected to it. It might be a little awkward to do so, but it's a quick and easy way to get a better recording of the bass. I could never get my UMIK-1 to work with my iPhones. But somehow works fine with my iPad without needing any special app. Just the stock camera app uses it as the mic.
Those look absolutely amazing, couldn’t of done it better. As someone who loves audio and has experience gear in their car, do you know of any detailed video guides or online articles about tuning audio setups?
