With over 50 years automotive experience and 35 years as a professional aviation technician, I add my 2 cents FWIW. What helped kill this engine (and many others, not just Mopars) was the manufacturers recommending extended oil change intervals of 7,500 miles on just conventional oil. I own a 2006 Stratus with the 2.7. They dropped that to 6,000 on this model after all the sludge problems (which was too little-too late). The pre 2006 models also suffered from inadequate PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) which was improved in '06. This also contributed to sludge issues. They also had a poor design water outlet for the top hose to the radiator that was leak prone. It would start leaking and if not corrected quickly would cause overheating. ALUMINUM ENGINES must NEVER be overheated! They just can't take it like the old cast iron ones could. Chrysler wasn't immune to these issues. There were class action lawsuits on the 3.0 litre V-6 1MZ-FE Toyota engines on sludge issues. I've had several of those engines and got 250,000+ miles on all of them. So here's the bottom line: Government mandated pressures on emissions and fuel mileage have forced the manufacturers to implement the use of small displacement, high reving overhead cam engines. To get the power needed out of these, they are using extremely sophisticated technology including turbocharging. 75-100 horsepower per Litre is common now but was unthinkable just 10-15 years ago. These engines absolutely DEMAND being serviced promptly at or before their recommended intervals with the absolute best fluids available. That means full synthetic oil if you're going to exceed 3000 miles on a change. The 2.7 shouldn't exceed 5000 on full synthetic. I don't care what the oil bottle says you can go either. BTW; Walmart Supertech Full Synthetic oil is just as good as the major label ones at half the price too. Coolant is one of the most neglected items. Most see that you can change it every 100,000 miles but forget to look at the first part that says 5 YEARS or 100,000 mi whichever comes FIRST! Old coolant won't freeze, but it's lost it's ability to protect from internal corrosion. Aluminum engines love to corrode internally too. A light layer internal corrosion will cause them to run hot. At 12-13 years old now, you can look down inside the oil fill opening and see the rockers and head of my 2.7 engine and it's as clean and bright as new. It's quiet as a mouse and will get you a ticket if you're not carefull on the highway. So, I'm not bragging, but letting everyone know how to maxamize their chances of getting the most from their engines. Just keep in mind if you're buying a used car/truck, it's still only as good as the previous owner(s) cared for it. Which unfortuantly most haven't done well.
What you mentioned is all that was needed to keep the engines going. Maybe a little work to the computers and the cam crank sensors not setting the flashing MIL when the chain was stretched all of the way and allowed the chains to jump. All of that was changed with the Penastar engines.
You are so right buddy I have a 2007 Chrystler 300 2.7 base model and I charge the oil regularly and keep coolant levels filled and even though trough out the year changing radiators hoses belts air filters ect my car runs like a Top.it has already exceeded over 200 thousand miles and because I have taken care of any issues I've come across it is still running. I have replaced the cam position sensor and many other parts from wear and tear but it's still running strong. Thank you for your wonderful feedback maintenance is key to longevity.
Thank you for your feedback. Would all of the precautionary actions you describe apply to the 2.7l engine in the 300M, 1999? I would appreciate your reply. Thank you
Very few. You see the odd one kicking around, but it's really rare now. I see an Intrepid or anything else with these crap engines, once in a blue moon, but they are few and far between. Most of them, people have given up on and they are gone.
Yeah, sometimes things like that, defy explanation. I have chalked it up to "people who maintain their vehicles well" or people who knew the problems and found a way around them. I would imagine that if sludge was the main issue, it could be mitigated with a better oil (synthetic) and religious oil changes and checking the oil to make sure it didn't have the aforementioned coolant contamination/gasket issue.
The problem With the 2.7 is because no one maintenanced the engine the major flaw is its an interference engine for one no biggie but The Water pump is derived off the timing chain and is attatched to the crank case if the seal leaks it sludges up oil and obviously anyone who knows anything about cars antifreeze in oil is not fucking good .... replace the Water pump every 70-80,000 miles and you should be golden thats the issue with the engine its a good engine just had its flaws as with any and also another bad thing bout it is that the 2.7L the tensioner is ran off of oil pressure so those who believe in 6-10,000 mile oil changes.... retards anyway have the issue on an engine like it honestly id do an oil change with full synthetics every 3000-5000 miles depending on how you drive if your driving it like you stole it obviously more wear also warming up your engine is a good idea in any vehicle truly most people turn key and go the biggest amount of wear in engines is on startup when parts are not lubricated right away Also with the 2.7 if you do not change your water pump and bearings sieze it being derived off your chain and being a interference motor Your asking for bent valves and a blown motor all comes down to regular maintenance something you average getting raped in the ass at shops people wont get no offense lol i cringe at how much people get screwed lol when a water pump is really only a 90$ part on the 2.7l
My friend kept claiming she beat a Charger in her 2011 V6 Escape, and now I believe her LMAO. It must have been a 2.7 V6 in it... those are horrendous numbers for a Charger
I legit beat one from a standing start to ~105 when my 2.5 V6 DOHC Duratec Ford Taurus hit its speed limiter lol. He was about 4-5 cars behind me at that point
2001 Mazda tribute owner here mines got a 3.0 v6 awd and from a standstill I get an 8.4 second 0-60 still slow as hell but could definitely beat the horrifically slow 10.5
@@hardygaming3454 Many cars from the 1980s and 1990 did 0-60 around 10 to 11 seconds. In fact Motor Trend stated at that time 10 seconds or less to 60 was considered good performance. We have just gotten spoiled over the last 10 to 20 years with all the technology and forced induction making cars faster. In normal driving you wouldn't notice it much since most people normal acceleration rate to 60 in around 15 - 16 seconds or more. Not everybody floors their car when the light turns green. My car's 0 to 60 is around 6 to 6.2 seconds and I very rarely use it 1) since gas mileage is affected, 2) I don't want to beat on my car which can be costly and 3)aggressive driving will get you a ticket which cost money and increases your insurance cost.
@@cyrusthevrus EXACTLY , Which is why they shouldn't of put that weak sauce motor in it ... I knew when I saw the stats and found out that it even had that motor it was going to be terrible and oh boy was it..... Chrysler is the person who should've took that weight into account lol
Do ya one better. My buddy has a 05 300 with it, and my old 2000 cavalier with the pushrod 2.2 was 3 seconds faster. A fucking base model cavalier. Yaknow, one of the most basic cars of the 90s.
Derick Smith that's not the car's fault, your story sounds like its directly related to you. 2.7Ls didn't even get regular oil changes 99% of the time. What did you expect???? And the 3.5L is a complicated 32v monster, also ran with people who don't do basic maintenance
You must be rich now if you were a Chrysler tech. I waisted my time working for Toyota. From what I see coming out of Chrysler the service department must be the bread and butter of the company.
@@goclunker the 2.7 was trash. I have a clean condition Sebring with 52k I purchased for $150 because the water pump failed and blew the motor. What idiot engineer decided it was a good idea to put a waterpump inside the oil cavity of the motor? The way you figure it out is when the rods start tapping.
@@brucetec6597 Francois Castaing, Me and about three dozen others called it a good ideal. I have been heavily involved with this motor since the first one ran on the dyno April 24th, 1995. That dyno engine logged over 10,000 hours with ZERO issues. Every one of these I have looked at has shown one clear thing, complete lack of oil changes and necessary maintenance as prescribed in the service manual and cars owners manual. This engine at that time was the most advanced engine that was being produced by anyone. It was all new from a clean sheet of paper until the molds were formed. And nobody was doing what we were doing at Chrysler, nobody. We wanted an engine without accessory belts, high compression, 240-260hp. Putting the water pump on the block behind the chain cover was natural to reduce the engine footprint and allow for tighter installations. It was designed to have the efficiency of a four-cylinder with the power of a V8. Unfortunately, we didn't get everything we wanted and had to make quite a few compromises, mostly from the compression ratio, and belts. Nobody got it when we showed a beltless engine with internal gears meshing with gears, it had to have belts. Then the big hammer fell, the EPA balked at the low-end Co2 emissions, wasn't happening compression came down to 9.4 to 8.75 to satisfy them of the 2 percent of the time the engine would be running at idle. Chrysler, like all manufacturers, gives you a warranty, that is what they consider the life of the product to be, if you double or triple it good for you, if it fails before the end they fix it, unless it was proven to be solely owner induced. If Mercedes or Toyota had made this engine it would be the best engine in the world simply because it came from them, PFT. No respect, no respect.
Dirk Turrell lol it isn’t a bomb. What you should be afraid of is how much more money you’ll have to spend to fix it if you keep it running longer with noise like that
Most of the issues that you speak of Were found in the 05’ and earlier 2.7 engines. The 2.7’s in the 06 and later 300 and Charger models were actually pretty good engines as long as they are serviced regularly. The main thing to watch in the newer 2.7’s if the water pump/ timing assembly. I can vouch first hand, I have a 09 300 with over 220,000 miles and it still runs like a champ and doesn’t smoke at all. Plus it’s still good on gas
@@jaydengillmore5670 I just retired a 2001 2.7 with over 350K on it. Still ran strong only reason it was retired is my son needed a bigger vehicle for his new family. You can turn any vehicle in to junk if you do not maintain it properly. In any vehicle things wear out or break.
Omg! I have a 08 Chrysler 300 lx 2.7 and my car has been overheating and I’ve received a few different opinions. One shop said because of the engine size and type it won’t show indications of a blown head gasket so I should just get a new motor and another shop says it’s the water pump. My car still run good no smoke coming from the exhaust no milky substance in my oil no nothing and my dad know a little about cars and he feel as though I don’t need another motor. Can you please give some advice please thank you!
Dude: I want my Intrepid to sound like a school bus! Mechanic: Does it have the 2.7? Dude: Yes Mechanic: Then it sounds like that already and it needs fixed now.
I had a 2005 Chrysler 300 2.7 had it up to 2018 and never been in the garage for engine or tranny problems ! And my sister in-law owns it now and still has no problems with motor
I had a 2.7L in a 2004 dodge intrepid, I heard all about the oil gumming up in these engines but I always did oil changes every 3,000 miles and used mobile1 oil and never had any issues whatsoever.
That's great to hear, I bought a 2001 Concorde with 48,000 actual miles 3 years ago, looked to be well maintained, perfect condition all over, I have been using Mobile one since i got it changing oil every 4-5,000 miles. maybe I better increase to 3,000. Good luck!
Lol I found a steal on a 08' Magnum with a 2.7 and couldn't pass it up. I had the nerve to install a K&N intake 😂 but that car was absolutely problem free. I couldn't get out of my own way but fueling up on regular gas was nice
Bought an '06 Magnum recently with a locked up 2.7l because of the failed top radiator hose housing. Had red silicone smeared all over it. Probably had other issues since it was locked up solid. Dropped a 4.0l in it from a Nitro. Rinse amazing and has great power. The 2.7l cars had 3.90:1 rear gears to help out with the low powered engine. Drop a 70hp+ more engine in and they are pretty quick. A 3.5l is a good option too and easier swap. Did an '08 300 4.0l swap. It was R/T quick. Much more reliable engines and MPG isn't that bad. 24mpg on a 4.0l with 3.90 gears. The quickness and fun factor were well worth the effort.
That was the reality of it. Chrysler V6 engines were pretty shit back then (albeit they have improved with the Pentastar). My buddy had an 11' Charger SXT with the 3.5L. That thing actually had worse mileage than the 5.7L Hemi on the R/T!
@@archibaldvonfookface7364 Wow 😯 it's sad when Chrysler's V8 makes better economy than their V6. And yeah, I'd definitely believe the Pentastar V6 is a massive improvement!
Unlike most people, I actually had a bunch of these things apart. There's a lot of misinformation about them. One issue with them is that there is a LOT of what I call "upstairs oil." Four camshafts, 24 lash adjusters, an oil accumulator with a "pinhole jet" in it, 1 primary chain tensioner, two secondary chain tensioners. No oil restrictor in the head gasket to slow it down a bit and leave some in the oil pan below. If you have ever tried running one of these with the valve covers off.... you know how big the mess is compared to various other engines. Is it a problem? Not really if you maintain a proper oil level. Anyone who has worked in a used car department at a dealership can vouch for the fact that it is far from uncommon to pull a dipstick out of a trade-in car and find nothing on it. Like many engines, it will consume oil as it ages. Some will survive with just 2 quarts left in the pan. This is an engine that will not. The sludge is due to the lack of oil maintenance. Engines of all genre will generate sludge. It becomes a problem on this one because all that oil in the heads has trouble draining back down to the bottom of the engine, through the sludge which starves the bottom end with oil, and then you have problems. Again, maintain the oil, and these issues go away. There will probably be someone who chimes in and says they did all that and it went bad anyway, but take what they say with a grain of salt. Next, the primary timing chain tensioner O-ring in the 2000+ models likes to take a hike and end up in the oil pickup screen. The result is a primary chain tensioner that cannot do its job anymore, and then the tensioner arm slaps around and makes a sound very similar to some clips I heard in the video. At the same time, there is an oil pressure loss, so the oil light will often come on. Oil light on, a slapping noise from the engine? Must be bad bearings, right? So, the engine is deemed junk when a $.75 o-ring will fix it. Some will say the sludge is because the PCV system is insufficient. Not true. The water pumps don't leak coolant into the oil, MOST of the time. There are two weep holes if memory serves me right. So, when the water pump seal/bearing goes bad, the coolant will seep through a hole in the block and onto the ground. A similar design with an "internal" water pump is found in a lot of other engines out there. It moved an LH car around quite well. The bigger rear-drive cars probably sucked.
It is nice to know that someone else has actually taken the time to open up the engine and examine what the heck goes on inside of it. I never had any hardships while working on one. 25 years ago, a guy told me that oil is cheap and engines are expensive. You can replace whichever one you want. If you're scared now that you own one, just remember to check your oil in it and change it every now and then.
I owned 2 Dodge Stratus’ with the 2.7. A 2002 I got with 114k that I put about 165k, gave away to my sister she drove it another 25k before a lady pulled out in front of her and she totaled it. The other was a 2001 stratus with the magnum option. I bought that car with 99k and drove it to right around 75k miles before I sold it. Loved them both immensely. Those engines required full synthetic oil and didn’t like much more than 3,000 per oil change. That and I did the timing set and water pump every 30-40k because I’d had one o ring go on my tensioner and water pump failure and decided the over maintain rather than risk my investment.
I bought a used 98 Intrepid with a 2.7L. IIRC, it had about 100k miles. It ran great for about 10k miles. Pretty strong, 29+ mpg on the freeway, super, super quiet engine at idle. I was unaware of the design of the water pump drive and the water pump's proclivity to leak water into the oil sump. If and when the pump does leak coolant, it mixes with the oil, which besides destroying the bearings, etc., also screws up the hydraulic tensioner for the cams drive chains, and that causes valves to strike the pistons. So yes, it was a poor design which could have cascading catastrophic failures.
I lucked out...I had an 03 Concorde with the 2.7 engine. Got the car used at 44000 miles and the trans died (my fault for not changing the fluid enough) at 158000 miles. My water pump went but the water gushed outside of the engine onto the ground at around 100000 miles. I used synthetic oil the whole time I had the car so that might have saved me from the fate of some of the horrible sounding engines in the video.
Got 210K on my 99 Intrepid with 2.7 liter. I did change the oil religiously and always added some Marvel's Mystery Oil. When I did take the valve covers off there was no sludge.
The thing reminds me of the lawn mower when you hear it making those noises when your engine starts making that noise either get repaired or do a engine swap☺
@carls mustang97 I heard a Nissan 4 banger in a Nissan hardbody (good chance it was an early-1990s one) make a sound like that and it just meant that it was time to add at least some more engine oil. (That incident was back in 2004) LOL
I was a Chrysler service advisor when the 2.7 problems started. The 2.7 was extremely sensitive to oil quality. The manual called for 3 month/5000 km oil changes, which few owners did. An example is my old uncle. He got one over 300,000 km with regular oil changes.
Having owned several of these engines in various platforms over the years, there is a few good ones but the abused and piss poor examples are much more common due to poor maintenance, it may be a really sensitive build of a engine but it didn't help that it used smaller 2.0 oil lines and poor choices in build quality lead to issue when some people didn't take care of it. Regardless, alot of the blame can be laid on so many contributing factors. 02 stratus SE plus 420k and a 05 R/T 220k both sedans, bout the only vehicle i've seen survive long with this engine in it.
10100rsn my thoughts exactly. when the dude in the first video reached for the throttle spindle I thought to myself 'please don't, it's knocking bad enough already'
Why? At that point, the motor is junk. It's cheaper to get a used motor to put in it, than it is to repair that one. It'll get sent to a scrap yard and crushed/shredded. Doesn't get much more dead than that.
@@TIMEtoRIDE900 those aren't collapsed lifters. All those noises were timing chain slap due to the primary tensioner being plugged with sludge or chain worn out due to wrong oil or excessive miles. Some could be rod knock due to oil starvation by sludge build up or high revving in turns when the engine is 1/2 quart or more low on oil. Caught early, swapping out rod bearings isn't a very difficult nor expensive job to do oneself.
I have a Sebring 2004 with the 2.7 - Bought in March 2019 with 85k original miles - Absolutely love it! Scared to death of all the horror stories - Currently really great tho- My ONLY headache is that the it has a phantom “starting issue” that mechanics seem to not wanna have anything to do with. Basically if it sits for 8-10 hours (everyday I wake OR work) it takes about 8 seconds to start and then its good until the next sit. Ive changed the battery and just keep trying myself to keep fixing little things. Mechanics pretend it doesn’t happen to them. Anyway I do love my car and I tweak, lube, change oil, air filters, check, tighten, adjust things all the time. Hopefully this makes me one of the lucky ones. I plan to have the car passed 200k. We’ll see what happens
classic fuel check valve issue. Long starts are often the pump priming a system thats at 0psi. Fresh restarts still have residual pressure in the system and start much faster.
I bought a Chrysler Canada Intrepid in 2005, had the 2.7 engine, I heard of the problems in some so I got the extended warranty with it. The car ran great for 3 years, after the warranty was up I started having problems that I read online, Oil light would flicker at a stop, engine light would constantly come on, car would go into safe mode. I had it for 8 years before the engine blew, at least I was 2 blocks from home, The car was 5 years old when I bought it, just over 200kms. I bought a 1992 crown vic to get me to the airport then buy a new one in the spring. The crown vic was 20 years old, it ran better than my intrepid, had it for 5 years and never had an issue with it. had more km's on it than the intrepid. Its still on the road today. Never buy another chrysler product again.
Marspeed Well take a look at the grand caravan, chrysler 200, Pacifica, Journey and regular Durango models. I consider those all pretty normal and they seemed to do an excellent job with them.
The 2.4L 4 speed Dodge Journey has terrible reliability problems with both engine and transmission. The 3.6L 6 speed Journey, on the other hand, has great reliability, along with 0-60 in 5.9 seconds. A major source of problem with slow Chrysler cars is they couple heavy cars with grossly underpowerd engine and transmission. A Dodge Journey weights 5500 lbs, a Toyota Rav4 at the same price in the same class weights 2000 lbs. Try to haul a 3500lb trailer with your Toyota Rav4, and you'll get the same reliability issues as 2.4L 4 speed Journey trying to do effectively the same thing with its own weight.
George Dang I agree my 3.6L Journey is fine, good car but I doubt your Journey is doing 0-60 doing 5.9 seconds stock without mods. My 2013 Mustang 3.7L 305 HP Mustang with a 3.21 rear axle is about 6.1 seconds and much quicker than my 3.6 Journey which weighs about 800 pounds more. Anyone who wants a Journey must go for the 3.6L the 2.4 L barely moved my wife's 2.4L Avenger 4sp Automatic but was reliable at 126k miles trade in.
I have 2005 Chrysler 300 2.7 with 237k miles on original motor. Just replace the timing Chain ,water pump and Thermostat every 40k miles. I also change my oil every 3k miles. It has no check engine light on. I just replaced my radiator this time around and it is a very dependable car with great gas mileage. I alway service my engine 2 times a week (checking coolant , and oil). I has never given me a problem. It runs and drives like a champ.
Max Tonight every 40,000. I do this because the first time it over heated back in 2010 my water pump prematurely failed at 50,000. So now I replace it early rather than later. Runs great with good gas mileage. It is slow in top speed tho😂
I have a used 2008 Dodge Charger (2.7) that I bought in 2010 and blew the engine very shortly thereafter due to sludge. After alittle research; I discovered the oil sludge issue is DIRECTLY related to poor quality oil and. Water pumps Dodge used to save money. So, I had the engine rebuilt and had the best quality after market oil and water pumps (including a new timing chain, timing kit etc) replaced with the engine rebuild. I drive a lot for work and I’m going on 190k miles with no engine problems whatsoever. I must confess; I change the oil at 3k miles religiously and have used Royal Purple full synthetic from the get go. It’s not a 3.5, I get it, but it’s still a Charger, comes STANDARD without Stability Control systems, better 0-60 rear gear ratios than the 3.5L, and it still has Hemispherical heads. Add a Cold air intake, performance throttle body, performance Accel coils, performance plugs, and performance flow master exhaust. I get the best MPG of any Charger AND have upped my 0-60 to approximately 7 seconds from 10 seconds. That’s only 2 seconds from a 5.7 and slightly faster than the 3.5. So, for the 2.7L owners, DO NOT believe the trash talk. It CAN be made into a quick car WITH a dependable engine with a rebuild (with higher quality parts) AND a few performance upgrades. Don’t get me wrong, if I could choose; would I pick the 2.7L engine? Of course not; the 3.5L is a better engine (it would have been a lot better if it had a timing chain instead of a belt).. And, the 5.7L is the most reliable Dodge factory engine without a doubt! BUT, I have a 2.7 and it CAN be made VERY RELIABLE AND significantly faster. You have to look at it this way; the engine is going to have to be rebuilt EVENTUALLY. When that time comes; it will be cheaper to rebuild the engine than to buy a new car. (A lot more cheaper Long term). Take your time and do some research on who to use in your area for your rebuild. Spend the extra money if necessary to have the engine rebuilt RIGHT. Add a few performance parts and you got yourself a fast and reliable car for a very long time.
"Add a Cold air intake, performance throttle body, performance Accel coils, performance plugs, and performance flow master exhaust. I get the best MPG of any Charger AND have upped my 0-60 to approximately 7 seconds from 10 seconds." Two questions regarding your statement: 1. How much did all that cost? 2. Would it work on a 2005 Chrysler Sebring 2.7 (European version)?
As a former CDJR service manager, I had zero 2.7 V6 engine failures if , either we serviced or the client had real LOF records. They certainly were not forgiving engines but if not maintained, serviced every 5K at the most.
It had its problems but I drove my 03 Deville exceptionally hard but kept the oil changed. It ran fantastic, the harder you drive them the cleaner they stay. Northstar was really a mismatched engine for a car going into an old lady boat. It craved high revs, if you didn't give it that, it would kill over with blown head gasket due to detonation, due to excessive carbon buildup.
+ King of The Castle I agree these were head gasket blowing head gaskets. My aunt Mary Kay brought a 1992 Oldsmobile Acheiva with the Quad 4 and went though 4 sets f head gaskets in 36,000 miles NO LIE. Quad 4 was produced from late 1987-20045.
Yes...2001 Intrepid. I stayed up on the oil changes, but no matter how well you maintain these engines, they will eventually succumb to the sludge build up. Sad. I loved that car.
We bought our Chrysler 300 new in April 2007, I just changed oil yesterday and mileage is 188226 miles. I have run Pennzoil 5W 30 since day one, it has never been over 6000 mi on any change and vast majority were at 3000 mi. The only thing that has been changed on engine is spark plugs. This car and engine is by far the best I’ve ever owned. As per manual at 45 miles my wife took off from dead stop floored it and run engine right up to 7000 redline. We drove this car from home in Oklahoma to Seattle to visit our daughter, it had 151,000 miles on it when we left home. I will say it was lethargic in the mountains but gave us no problems on the 5800 mile trip, I would drive it across country today, I have a feeling most issues were from poor maintenance.
2007 Chrysler 300C 2.7 V6 owner here from Philippines, i already got 40 plus kilomenters with it so far i have replaced water pump, coolant tank, one fuel injector and the starter wiring harness lol
the 2.7L are great engines with excellent fuel economy and power to weight ratio. You have to know what you're doing with them and work around the very few "warts" the engineers put into them (mostly proper maintenance/fluids and upgrading a couple of the factory parts). Yes, they are slow off the line, but the cars they are put into are of the "touring" variety and once you're up to 25+ MPH they are quite quick where the power counts, passing and pulling out of the twisties -- all this while getting somewhat north of 20 MPG even in the city in what is usually 2+ tons of metal.
I have a 2004 Dodge Stratus 2.7 I love it you just have to make sure you get oil changed on time and make sure your using the right oil. Mines is currently at 160,000 miles I don't think it was a good idea to put it in heavier sedans though. Definitely looking to add to my mopar collection R/T or better.
@@MarspeedCars 3.5 was heavier and not nearly as efficient. Almost nothing but spray could make these cars faster off the line, but if you held them down in a lower gear and made them rev they were plenty fast after that.
I have replaced and rebuilt many of these 2.7 motors. The biggest problem is two big problems. Problem #1 is the powder metal rods with the "cracked caps" The rods are made from a powdered metal that is compressed to create the rod, and instead of machining the rod ends. They simple scored a line and cracked the cap open. So the rods were throw away's to start with. There is no machining that can be done to them to resize the large end that goes around the crank. Problem #2 is non priority oiling. The main bearing did not get the oil first like in many other engine designs. With this problem. The dry start would place maximum wear on the rod bearings. Bonus problem. Owners being cheap and not using a full synthetic motor oil. Full synthetic oil don't sludge up like regular motor oil does. Cheap $19.99 Jiffy Lube oil changes do more damage then good. Sure you might save a few bucks now, but it will cost you in the end. I have 2 customers that have over 300,000 miles on the factory 2.7 cause they listen to me and always used a full synthetic, and replaced the water pump, timing chain, and guides every 3 years. Rather it needed it or not.
there's an upgraded chain and water pump that, with the proper HOAT anti-freeze, proper oil + change interval, and carefully watching the coolant level should allow one to stretch that chain/pump maintenance interval out to at least every 80k miles.
I had a 2002 Sebring with the 2.7 that I inherited from a wealthy aunt and it was a garage queen that only had 45,000 on it, This car was like she had just driven it off the showroom floor. At 50,000 miles the water pump went out and I had it and the the whole timing chain and guide and water pump assembly replaced. This was a big deal as everything is buried inside the engine and you have to drop the engine and subframe to access them! At 54,000 miles it all came unglued again and split the aluminum timing cover right down the middle and started sitting oil everywhere like it had Covid. Off to the junkyard it went! Car still looked brand new but was a POS. My 2002 RAM wasn't any better as it was a rust bucket and everything was falling apart on it too.. No more chrysler products for me!
My 2002 Sebring engine was attacked by the sludge monster at 60K. I had the oil changed with conventional oil at typical owner intervals. At 60K. Maybe 5-8 times. No water pump leak issues. Just high heat destroying the conventional oil from the Cats being right against the engine. Premature timing chain wear and the tensioner was at max extension. The chain jumped and bent intake valves. Replaced the valves with new chain and water pump. 3K oil changes with synthetic only and still going strong at 111K in 2022.
2002 Stratus R/T Sedan 4d; 91,000 it started making that noise, and I shut it down within a mile, about 3 minutes. Had it towed, they said it snapped a connecting rod, but NO OIL SLUDGE. So Chrysler bought me a new engine; $7,185. I argued that it had the 7/70 warranty when I bought it, and by the time it failed they were offering the 7/100,000 warranty, which I was short of. Car has 151,000 miles on it now; has not run since 2013 when the Air Conditioner failed, and I didn't have 2 grand to fix that. But I loved this car. I told people it was fast enough to have a little fun (the 5 speed manual was a beauty) but not so much fun that I needed my lawyer on speed-dial. Now I've got the money to fix it, and you're making me wonder. I wouldn't use it for a daily driver any longer, but I loved the styling with the R/T package (even though I get guffaws and snickers from REAL Mopar R/T owners from the 70's, and rightly so. This is certainly no 440 Road Runner with a six pack, but it has airbags, antilocks, and it got almost 27 MPG on the highway. I used conventional oil originally, and changed it myself always around 3,000 miles. I switched to full synthetic after the new engine, and still never went more than 5,000 on before oil changes. Watching your video and reading the other articles on this engine makes me realize why they fixed my engine, though - they made a point of telling me (you can see the mechanic's hand-written remarks on the original work order) "NO SLUDGE ???!!!"
I've had a 2000 Sebring JXI, ran beautifully for the 5 years I owned it. I bought it in 2005 it had 86,000 miles when I brought it and 189,000 miles when it was totalled in a car accident. I currently have an 2007 Chrysler 300 with the 2.7 v6 engine and despite the issues I have had the engine is not one of them. Currently has 136,000 miles.
To further comment, I think the difference between a good engine and bad you elude to in your video, oil maintenance. I have ways used synthetic oils and it truly makes a difference. Many say it's too expensive but if anyone does a cost analysis the cost is break even if you follow the maintenance guidelines of the synthetic oil. Standard oil used mean you are supposed to change it every 3k miles. With synthetic it's a minimum of 5k and some as much as 10k. However with the longer lasting synthetic oils make you are changing your filter at the appropriate mileage mark because the oil may last 10k but the longer lasting filters are generally only 7.5k.
My 2.7L v6 Chrysler 300 still runs perfectly, the engine doesn't make any knocking sounds nor has oil sledge. But im going to replace the engine with an 08 8.4L dodge viper engine twin turbo and supercharged. With strate pipe exhaust can't wait
Ryan Green I've pretty much replaced everything under the hood and opened up most of the engine to clean out the sludge and crap. I probably learned most of what I know about cars because of this crappy engine. On my 4th coolant air bleeder!
Robert Keefer So much agreed! Great little V6! Had four of the 1G Cloud cars over the years. I still got a loaded 98 Cirrus. Each one with the 2.5 got 200,000 miles worth of life out of them during my ownership. I avoided the 2G cars due to the 2.7.
My 1st car was a 99 avenger with a 2.5 v6 loved that car. I then bought a srt4 and my dad drove it to work for gas mileage. And I remembered him calling saying I'm getting a new car the transmission blew up and I drove from work to the dealer in 2nd gear. Hahahaha. Engine made it tho....
The transmission in my sister's '98 Avenger RT crapped at 65k. Engine started blowing smoke at 75k. My dad also had a Dodge Dynasty with the Mitsu 3.0 SOHC in it, and that thing was blowing oil at 85k. Most people I knew with 2.5s or 3.0s had issues with blowing oil before 100k, in fact. It's a case of YMMV.
I had a 2000 Dodge Caravan with a Mitsubishi 3.0 V6 6g7 engine. It never really had any issues for over 250k. Although it did run low on oil once. Then I hit a deer head on. Front end was crunched in, but she still started up and ran. Totaled for insurance. Good old Japanese engines....
I had a 98 stratus with the 2.5 mitsu v6. Had 270k when i sold it, head gasket was starting to go. Got it from the original owner who garage kept it, car was immaculate.
Hmm. This is interesting because my uncle had a '99 Intrepid with this engine and he said it was the best car he ever had! HOWEVER, he bought it in 2000 and about 2 months after he had it, the engine blew up on him, but it was still under warranty with the dealership. Turned out the problem was the oil pump that failed and basically starved the engine of oil, causing it to cease completely. Chrysler replaced the engine with a brand new one (free of charge,) he ended up putting around 170,000 miles on the new engine and never had a single problem with it. On the contrary, it was actually extremely reliable - never failed or left him stranded. He kept his '99 Intrepid until the transmission finally failed, at which point he junked the car because the body was rusting out pretty badly. But at the time he got rid of it, the 2.7 engine was still going strong! True story.
The same thing they're thinking now. Their stuff is still crap. I work at an auto parts store and to be honest, we sell very few parts for Chrysler products. The reason being, we recommend they DON'T repair them, and instead get rid of them and replace them with something better.
When I went to school for engineering we got into motors this was one that came up. The testing grounds we were at had on they took at 30k miles ran on new synthetic oil that engine then when we went through had 257k miles this was an oil company Mobil 1. They said oil just wasnt advanced enough at the time and oil issues began. There are a couple issues though around timing chain due to engineering stand point. Every make has one that looks great on the drawing board tests fine but when released real life scenarios will reveal issues.
I have a stratus SXT 2.7 it’s a 2005. 93560 miles and going strong. We’ve had it since 22,000 miles,Full synthetic NAPA or Citgo 5 w 20 oil and a wix filter every 6 months or 3000 miles....my car is actually pretty quick for an older car,it catches a lot of people off guard with it’s pretty quick accceleration .
I worked at autozone, and own a 05 sebring with the 2.7. In the computer system at the zone, there is a tsb that states you should use an engine fflush like motormedic with every oil change to prevent oil sludge build up, and also to use ONLY 5w-20 oil to prevent clogging of oil channels in engine. No problems at all yet, i have just over 60,000 miles on it.
I've heard the only oil rated for the heat and shearing this engine produces is mobil1 0w-40. IMO it's not a bad idea to put a pint or so of chemtool in the crank case a day or two before changing it out (and driving it around normally)
I agree, it turned out to be a crap engine especially for people who don’t do routine maintenance and oil changes with a quality oil. You couldn’t give me most of those cars, but I love the body styles of the 300/Charger/Magnums. I picked up a 2007 300 at auction for a few hundred and the car was immaculate except for a lifter tick and a mild knock on the #5 cylinder. I discovered that it was a surprisingly easy engine to tear down and work on. $500 in parts and 3 days it was rebuilt and running great.
2:11, those performance numbers would be considered excellent for a big V8 car in the 80s and early 90s. They would have been touted as having strong acceleration and gobs of power.
I have a 2006 Dodge Magnum with 235K miles on it. I am running it only on FULL SYNTHETIC 0W-20 and 5W-20 engine only now I changed up to 5W-30 because I am in Florida. My Head gasket blew between the coolant and cylinder at 2 locations, Oil pressure dropps because of worn out crankshaft seals. So I took the engine fully apart and in the process also deep clean all my rockers and hydraulic lifters to ensure they don't have any debis in them. I posting a video series about what I am doing to the Car/Engine and found also out my oilpan gasket failed between the pan and block which lead to oil pressure drop, so now I am cleaning all up step by step and also replaced the water pump with a higher quality pump (no plastic).
I have a 2001 Dodge Stratus that I bought brand new with 8 miles on it back in 2001. It has 277,000 miles on it and just now the water pump has failed. I'm going to replace all the timing chains and water pump , clean up the engine and oil pan, oil pickup and see if it will go to 300,000 miles.
Same they talking down on a decent engine every engine will do this it’s called take care of it if they would had fixed the issue ahead of time they would be great they see they check engine light on and for how long like y’all making it seem as if this engine does it alone
@@darrenbrooks4192 this is a bad engine. It's prone to failing. If you take specific steps to take care of them, they will last, but that applies to every engine. Yes, all of them. When people treat these engines like normal, they have problems.
ive always had good luck with them, just change the oil and keep an eye on all fluid levels especially the coolant as it can leak into the oil from the water pump. they are pretty quick in the older sebrings but the heavier cars shouldnt have had that engine as an option.
One of the easiest ways Chrysler could have avoided many of the issues with this engine was making full synthetic a requirement. Also, the 6 quart oil pan from the LX cars in earlier motors would have been great.
There are two types of 2.7L owners... Those that have had them explode, and those who will have them explode. It's a shame it could have been a great engine but the oiling system and timing chain system had major problems! I had an 01 Dodge Status SE that I bought used I was the second owner and when I picked it up the car had 24K miles. It was meticulously maintained (all records and receipts, owned by a middle aged man). I swapped over to Mobil 1 Synthetic after learning I bought a time bomb. By 50K miles the rods were knocking....
My, 2.7 in the Sebring convertible was great! Ran synthetic Royal purple 5w30 oil, Mobil one filter ! That car and that engine was a good package! My friend had that engine in a Intrepid and got sludged up. He ran regular oil and filter. He didn't change the oil much! It blew after 60,000 miles. Sorry about your luck. Some jerk backed into it and killed it. The car was a 2004 model! Also it had 131,000 miles on it. I miss that car. I got $ 4965.00 from the insurance company, held out. The car was in mint condition. Shawn
I had an '01 Sebring Sedan with this motor. I bought it new. I did regular (3k miles to 8k miles) oil changes, and then I heard it was a bomb at around 50k miles, so I started doing Mobil-1 every 3k miles. I drove that car to about 170k miles with absolutely zero engine issues... I got rid of it because the steering rack went bad. Having said that... I have an '05 convertible, same motor. Got it with 40k miles, did Mobil-1 changes every 3k on the dot. It's sitting in my garage because the #3 cylinder has 30# of compression where the others have about 130#. I need to put a new piston and rings in #3.
I Had a 02' Sebring with the 2.7. It had 186k when I got rid of it. I was aware of the problems and ran the best oil that Pennzoil had and changed the oil every 4k miles and added half a quart more than specified. It was very reliable until it started to show symptoms of a head gasket leak, which turned out to be the water pump seal leaking into the crankcase. The repair was too expensive for me, so I took it to a junkyard for its resting place. It was a Good car until the problems catch up to you.
Man, I love it. I've been telling people for years that the Charger isn't a bad car when someone criticizes it, The 2.7 is the problem. I've even debated it on this very page with a don't know, good looking for shedding light on this hopefully people will get the picture.
its not just the 2.7, Chrysler as a whole has made crap vehicles for a long time. That is supremely disrespectful to treat your customers who spend thousands on your product, and you pay them back with a subpar product and little to no recourse.
Wasnt trying to come off angry. I was just saying in my opinion its the Company itself and its company culture thats wrong for feeling like its ok to cheat the customer in such a way.
Oneil Salazaar I feel you, Chrysler has some really bad products that give them a horrible reputation but they can make good stuff too when they actually want to
I've heard so many terrible things about the engine, but I have an '00 Intrepid 2.7L with about 184k miles. I've had to keep up with standard maintenance and parts replacement but the motor is still running almost like new. Like he said, sometimes you get a good one.
Hi 4 years later !....Mines a '00 intrepid also, 227000 on it, it recently needs love, I've done routine oil on all my rigs at 4000 to 4.5 k miles between oil changes. But I run this old girl pretty hard, like hammer down on the freeway on ramps and getting out of my own way ! Recently, I've developed a water leak. I believe judging from where it's leaking, having some steam in my exhaust, and the rear two cylinders on the driver side have the exact same compression, where every other cylinder is slightly different from one another, I've come to the conclusion I have a blown head gasket. It's looking as though if I do the work, I'll save about 3 to 4k in labor and machine work cost. Parts and machine will come in at about $1200.00 To have a shop do the work is worth more than these cars sell for at today's (6/23) prices. I've been wrenching on engines since the 70's, got the shop, got the tools, got the $$. The deal is at this point of this cars life, do I pawn it off for near NOT-A-DAMN for parts.. or keep it around for a few years ?? I gotta say the thing is a comfy car to drive, I've kept it up otherwise so, ... MigHT bE gEtTiNg GrEaSy ROuNd HeRe !!
Like he says it's kinda hit and miss I have had 5 intrepids that have all made it to at least 250000 with no issues regular maintenance and one (my first car) made it to 500,000.
Jon Phelps proper maintenance bolsters that hit or miss as well, if you wanna call it that. How many makes out there today exceed 250k without a problem? I have an 07 charger 2.7 with over 270k and still running very well. Fluids, good gas, tune ups and long distance driving.
Want to check for rod knock before buying any car? Turn the radio off and fan so you can hear what is going on with the engine. Put on the parking brake, put one foot on the brake pedal hard, put it in drive and give it just a little gas. Not much gas. It only take a couple of seconds. Sometimes rod knocks will be quiet at idle but by doing this you should hear any rod knocks since it puts a load on the engine.
I have a 2001 Sebring convertible with the 2.7 V6 and I have been very happy with it so far. It has currently about 106 000 miles and I haven't experienced any issues with it.
Thanks for the information. I'll be sure not to buy one. Even before watching this video I have heard about Dodge's bad reputation, including transmission problems. Now I know why I see so many Mopars on used cars lots.
2008 Charger 2.7 has 285,000 miles and the original waterpump just failed. If you maintain the 2.7 it will last as long as any other engine. People just don't change the oil as required. Conventional oil every 3000, Synthetic every 5000.
Facundo Thammavong The fact that y'all feel the need to advertise those numbers should tell you that its a shitty car from a shitty company. How many Toyota owners would brag about 170k miles?
When the 2.7 came out it was such a well engineered engine; steel timing chain, not great power but about as small as you can get for a V6 .. so the durability of a 6 cylinder .. gas mileage of a big 4. So I end up with a convertible my Dad bought with 7500 km .. 2004 Sebring GTC Convertible .. I got it around 2015 with 12,500 km .. it just turned over 61,000 km. When I got it the mechanic did some repairs .. new tires, a brake rotor wasn't right. 5800 lb car -- and he had a lender that was much older and worn. He said 2004 was a huge leap in fixing it up .. just change the oil (synthetic) .. stupid water pump design but he said the repair is done so often, it is not the $4500 anymore .. and many people forget to change out other parts that make sense when you open the motor up that much (new chain was one thing he mentioned, as I was surprised by that). The big worry in this city is that with the car weight .. he said the suspension does not wear out in my Canadian city .. it just gets destroyed .. rubber etc all good .. just broken to bits. So every 70k new suspension and you never use factory parts as new more robust version are made for it .. he said they still get destroyed, but not as quickly. Now mine is going strong .. I found out it guzzle gas if you actually use the motor .. so around 2500 rpm .. I just let come to speed itself at that point. I get pretty consistent 26 mpg summer .. more like 15 or 16 in winter (the choke stays on 30 to 40 minutes). The engine seems very hot, heating good but not at idle. It also went through a year when it would just not start for a few terrifying minutes .. turn over but not run .. then back to normal. The Sebring GTC has to be one of the most handsome vehicle on the road. Certainly more a cruiser at 5800 lbs - but the insurance is incredibly low on it, probably due to strong body on frame (unibody with a frame, go figure). The 2.7, with a 4 speed .. I find it "okay" .. it seem to be "happy and working" and the I don't get too many confused gear changes when I go from coasting to accelerating again. I hope my synthetic oil keeps that engine going and I let it warm in winter (it is parked in a heated garage). I drive it carefully .. if I had a good income, I would drive it harder for sure .. but a type of situation where if you had some money backing, I would have more fun with it for sure.
I've owned 2 Intrepids (00 and 02 both with 2.7 engine). First one caught fire at 81K miles, and the 2nd one blew a water pump at 68K. Traded it in at 86K miles for a 2011 Ford Crown Vic. I liked the car but despised all the problems it had.
I really love it, it was from my grandfather that at his death I leave it in the hands of my grandmother who does not know how to drive, so when I am taught to drive , I will use it to go to school and to go out with my Friends, I do not care what I have to do, even if I have to do a motor swap to a 3.5, I will do it to keep my grandfather's memory alive
VÁLVULAS E INYECTORES Sometimes I wonder if these guys are paid to state these claims. Either that or they have beat the snots out of their cars. I have an 07 2.7 charger with 270k and still running fine. You have to keep up maintenance, especially with someone who knows what they are doing if you're not doing it yourself.
gee ess that is true my intrepid 2.7 made it 220,000 miles but having the water pump in the engine is seriously fucked if you want to get long life out of your car, it was the death of mine even though the job had been done before
My buddy in the Air Force had an 06 Charger with the 2.7L V6 and had to install a new motor in it after less then 40K miles due to engine oil sludge. He let it sit for for log periods due to deployments but i always thought that it still shouldn't have happened so early. This video now makes sense why his car had issues.
I have 300 with a 2.7 and it was way underpowered for the weight of the vehicle. The only thing wrong with the motor is a bad o2 sensor and a slight misfire in cylinder 1 but with 220k miles it runs good. Oil is changed every 4k miles.
Monica Smith my buddy had a tricked 225 , cam , 4bbl intake , rods , bearings , blue print , balanced ! Ate Chev and ford for breakfast , lunch and dinner ! Yes , the slant six !
in the bigger cars they were slow off the line but if you held them down in a lower gear and revved them they were plenty fast after that. This engine is made to WIND
