Excellent! You talk sense and know what you're talking about, plus NO SHOWBIZ!!! Just found the channel and SUBSCRIBED. I like cut of your jib. ATB from the UK.
Thanks for the video. I am one of those people who over lubricates my knives. I had no instructions to look at, that is until I saw your video. My knives are automatics and spring assisted so, it's important to me that the springs and internal parts stay lubricated. Thanks for the help.
For blade/steel components: Aegis Daily Cleaner (a rust prevention/cleaner solution). I like this rust prevention solution because it does not emit strong odor, it dries up quick as you rub it... leaving a fine coating layer of the solution, and best of all... it's food safe! For pivots/moving parts: Benchmade Blue Lube By the way, I got the same micro - green rag as you. It came with Aegis Daily Cleaner set.
I always use the Tuf-Glide in the needle applicator but buy the 8oz refill. I also use the Hi-Slip grease and the SmoothKote molybdenum liquid where needed. My supplier (Shoothouse in the U.K.) even sent me a couple of Tuf cloths to try, great for larger blades. If I'm going to store a knife for any length of time I use Renaissance Wax to keep them protected. A high carbon steel blade on a Japanese Tanto shows no sign of rust after about 9 months storage. Anything is better than nothing though.
Tuf glide is the bomb! That applicator is great for getting into places without squirting too much in the with the hope of some of it reaching the right spot.
Great video Jeff. I own a Kershaw Blackout with the SpeedSafe assisted opening & today I dropped it into a bucket of automatic transmission oil. My question is, how would I take it apart to clean all the ATF out? I'm concerned because it is an assisted opener & I've never had one of these apart before. I really enjoy your videos.
I've never had to oil any of my knives but got a brand new Spyderco Ambitious in the mail today and its really stiff :( i might take it to a shop for an initial oil and inspection.
I always oil my knives just like the way you demonstrated with a light machine oil (non food knives) or ballistol. Question though: when I take my knives apart for cleaning I always lubricate the bushings / entire pivot area on the inside. Is this something you would also recommend?
Jeff, curious about thoughts on Royal Purple Maxfilm synthetic lubricant for knife use & protection? I recently purchased a can for testing but generally use basic knife oils w/ needle applicators too. FYI, if needed google small empty plastic bottles w/ needle applicators for sale, which can be filled with anything. Check out royalpurple site under consumer products 'other' category... there's specific page with video demo on performance with interesting claims for any metal parts contact?
It would be used for recreation/all purpose? As of right now, the things I can think of that we would be using it for would be to cut ropes if needed when we go camping or boating. I guess you could say we would be using it for outdoors. Me AND my dad will be using it. And I know hes not a big fan of fix blades (yet) so I will have to be looking for a folder.
Have you ever used frog lube, ballistol, or mil-comm. I am useing mil-comm and ballistol now but I am thinkng about frog lube this is more about guns but my knives also. Thanks.
Hey, Jeff. I really appreciate this video. Maybe you would consider doing a video on the opposite side of things; that is, taking a tarnished knife and "refurbishing" it? I recently grabbed and old favorite of mine with high carbon blades and it looks destroyed. :(
Ben Martin yes definitely and personally i dont do it on stainless steel for that reason, also if you dont use a food safe oil you cant use the knife for food prep at all anymore, that said mineral oil is food safe and good for bpade lubricant, i also coat all my tool steel blades in it
B.S. I've been using 3-in-1 oil for 30+ years to oil my knives/blades and have never had an issue with food prep. Yes, you might get sick if you drink the entire bottle but the insignificant amount of what you would use to coat the blade and oil the pivot isn't going to hurt a thing. It's literally a non-issue.
I recommend break free clp because it has really good rust protection and lubes very well I don't recommend things like cooking oil as it could go rancid but if you are looking for a edible lube I would go for mineral oil. :D
So would you bother oiling a stainless steel blade? Obviously if it's a folder you're going to want to lube the moving parts, but does oiling the exposed metal make a difference?
+DoridianBlueprint Viktor I would assume so. Like he said, any oil will probably do. Granted I'm using tuf glide right now. I found the trombone lubricant after like ten years then lost it in a month =D
i like to take down my knives when i can and use a Q-tip and Olive oil. Makes ur knives safe to use for food prep, and makes them buttery smooth, altho it doesnt dry a coating like linseed i believe
WD40 is a water displacer, its not meant to provide lubrication and it wont keep its lubrication. Ive always used Break Free CLP but its on the thin side. That being said use 3 in 1 Oil if you cant find anything other then WD-40.
Jeff can you do a knife sharpening video on fixed blades. I know there is great videos out there but I trust you more with knifes. P.S. im new to knife collecting
A bit off-topic but could you make a video about sand paper sharpening? Because I want to try on my kabar. This method is fairly cheap so I'd like to try but I don't want to fuck up my blade. Thanks.
Would anyone recommend oiling a brand new folding knife? I mean like cleaning out whatever oil might be in there and using a better oil, or just waiting until it's dirty then cleaning and oiling it.
depends greatly on the knife. Expensive knives usually come pre lubed. But for the majority of production folders they do not come lubed. Should you oil a new production knife? How is it out of the box? Is the action super stiff or is it killer? I usually use a new knife for about a week and a half to work the action in(breaking in the pivot washers etc). If the action is still stiff then Ill hit it with either Nano Oil or Benchmades Blue Lube which are two of the best lubes there are.
I used mineral oil when I carried mine but honestly the VG10 is a chef's knife steel and will not rust but just drip one of two drops right down into the open part of the liners and "paint" it on the parts with a q tip, Mineral oil is cheap, like 1.50 for a huge bottle at walmart