Just a note, having a bare Qi coil will decrease the efficiency & distance you can power a device. The ferrite material behind the coil in the original charger essentially focuses the magnetic field in one direction to reduce power loss & increase effective range/distance
What nonsense is this? The coil produces an electromagnetic field. That field does not require directioning since you aren't transmitting it over distance.
@Duck_side They are used to conduct the magnetic field, to increase the efficiency of the energy transfer. As it conducts the magnetic field, it will also reduce the magnetic field behind the ferrite sheet, which is quite important on the receiver side (less electromagnetic interference, less eddy current losses, less heat). removing it will decrease the positive effect of the ferrite sheet. This means the charger will lose efficiency. This could potentially lead to overheating of the charger. Depending on the implementation it could catch fire or burn out the coil.
The black disc behind the coil (made of ferrite) is essential and it was not placed there by mistake, i guess a third revision is somewhat necessary :) Keep it up, nice build :)
That was a fun video. I want an update after it's been used more eventually. And maybe follow that with an updated version that is a different shape and design, has more coils so you could have less precise placement, and upgraded everything.
I definitely wouldve put a usb-C female port on the exterior of the epoxy mold so you could plug in the finished "gem" instead of having a permanent wire that WILL go bad and get a short eventually. other than that though, this is an awesome project idea and im starting mine RIGHT NOW!. lol. I have wireless pad chargers i can donate, i have usb-c female ports, I have 2 part epoxy... Gotta love the tinkerer lifestyle.. Some people collect cards, some people collect coins, i collect tools and components to small electronics projhects.. I ALWAYS over order so i have extras in case any future project idea needs them.
One suggestion, take a scrap piece of the same epoxy and dip it into acetone after sanding it to 1000 grit. I have heard it will remove the surface defects and smooth them out to where it is crystal clear. But it depends on the epoxy! Otherwise, it is a nice project!
Dope build ! it would have been cool if you left the edges sanded and put some RGB LEDs in the base that light up the unit depending on charge status... idk how to do that but an idea !!
Looks great, Zac! You're asking for ideas, here I've got one: You kan make matching stands exact the same way you made this stand but with an ESP32 (Microprocessor, Arduino) and a LCD or OLED display (if you're lucky maybe even a transparent one) and then display a clock and / or notifications on it. As an ESP32 has build-in Wifi and Bluetooth, it gives you lots of possibilities. For the ESP you can use one of the Dev Boards (make sure you create external Reset (and, depending on the selected board Prog) buttons. The Chip can be both powered and programmed over USB. For your convince, you can add more buttons, which you can hookup to the GPIO pins to use for navigation or whatever you would like. As it is Arduino based, there is a lot of information available on the internet and it is pretty easy to program.
I am curious what sort of energy transfer you are getting without the ferrite behind the coil? Have you noticed if it charges at the same speed or slower than the stock charger?
Great video Zac! I saw updates if this on your IG stories, and I was really intrigued. I’ve been looking into wireless charging, but I kinda don’t like the look very much. This looks really good, and the way it acts as a phone stand as well is really cool! I’ll probably try this sometime when I can get more familiar with epoxy
Thanks Arpad! And ya you can actually stick wireless charger in just about anything. As long as it's only 1/4" thick or so it should still work. So there are lots of opportunities to hide them. Let me know if you need any help or have any questions!
Hey Zac. Great build. 👍 UV light, not heat will be your enemy for turning it yellow. Keep it in the drawer and not under the window when not in use and you should be good for a while :) Also, dont think the Osmo will make a difference......... Generally, that's why Osmo, Rubio, Odies etc all suggest not sanding beyond a certain grit, as there are ever decreasing molecules for oil to 'adhere' to. If you're worried about scratches, maybe a dedicated 'top-coat' resin as they're a little more hard wearing. Hope it helps :)
You could have made yourself a cardboard tray almost the size of the space you want to CNC out and put saran wrap over the cardboard so the epoxy doesn't soak into it and use that as a displacement so you don't waste as much epoxy in the beginning. If the Saran Wrap doesn't have any holes, you should be able to pull the cardboard out afterward and just CNC away the Saran Wrap while squaring it up.
Just ran across this video and it reminded me of Commodore. Back in the 80s I had a Commodore 64 computer and the most commonly failed component of that computer was its external power supply. People found them easy to repair early on until Commodore started filling the power supply case full of an opaque epoxy and it was impossible to get to the electronic components to repair them, so you had to buy a new one directly from them until a couple of companies started to produce repairable ones. Which goes to show even components that generate heat like a small PSU can even be encased in epoxy.
I worked on the wireless charging bowl, back when I had a job. It was abandoned because if you put, say, your keys with the key fob on it to charge up (actually part of the listed products features) you'd cook your hands taking it out because your keys would be hot af (prototypes nearly started several fires lol). Great idea; more complex in implementation than initially thought ;-)
Electronics are quite often encased in epoxy. Silicone is also used. Additives can improve heat dissipation and UV resistance. It's called encapsulation or potting when the polymer fully encases the circuitry, and conformal coating when it's applied as a thin layer. Unfortunately most manufacturers choose opaque encapsulation because that makes repairing the product harder; but in military and commercial products the epoxy is often clear so that technicians are able to drill through it to test points or components in need of replacement.
The build turned out great! I feel like it makes sense to not take things to the ultra fine finish when you don't know if it will even work. There is always opportunity for other iterations.
9:00 How about covering all the plates with red tape so you can make sure the tape is laying REALLY flat, and add some stuff you use to close the hole for the cable where the wood tiles meet so it won't run out? This way you have way more control about the final surface, as the sides of the tape don't either overlap not deviate if you did a great work. Just a thought.
The thing to watch out for in terms of heat is not really the charger per se. It's more when the phone is being used heavily and so it both heats up plus it drains more power. So then it's needing to charge more and the charger is hotter which can cause a bit of a feedback loop of things heating up
I did this with a coil for wireless hobby LEDs. I encased the coil and little driver board in a coaster mold and it turned out nicely. It lasted a couple weeks but one day I noticed it had burned out the little driver board. I could see in the resin where the little IC overheated and cracked. I am going to try this again but this time I am only going to encase the coil and I am going to leave the driver board out. I should note; I don't know if encasing the driver board in the resin was why the thing overheated. it could be for other reasons like the power adapter or maybe I used to many LEDs and drew to much power... So I am still experimenting. my next idea is to 3d print a tray with a cutout in the bottom for the electronics.
Potting electronics is extremely common. It would be weird if it didn't work. That isn't usually casting epoxy though so I guess melting and discoloration could be a concern.
I used to keep a change of clothes handy, as I was accident prone, and was always in need of a clean change. But I used to keep it all in a 'sealed' cardboard box that was easy to open and close, as it does not raise suspicions like a suitcase or other case would. But now that I am retired, I find I still need to have spare shirts, towels, and hand cleaner in the car...
After a while, I realized a few things... There are already standing/angled Wireless charging phone stands for $10. Not sure how much you spent to do this, but I hope you had fun with it. Secondly: you could have 3D printed parts to make a simple adapter, which holds the Wireless charger puck upright, and saved a ton of time and effort. The clear Epoxy is fun, but I'd reserve it for projects with slightly more impressive tech "guts" to display. Like, I want to make an SBC (Single Board Computer), cover in Epoxy, and put it in a small fishtank for liquid cooling
Great video Zac! I got nervous for a second. I figured the charger would be fine (i've kinda experimented with this concept as well) but I almost thought i'd see a Zacbuild's video without Walnut!!? 😂
@@ZacBuilds AWHILE back I made a video where I made a floating nightstand out of concrete. I wanted a wireless charger so I casted a small circle of epoxy and to make sure the charger could penetrate through I disassembled it and hot glued it right against the bottom of the epoxy. So similar but not the same.
I'm not sure I understand Patrick. I made it a bit big because I knew I'd have to machine it down to the size I wanted. I also wanted to have some flexibility in terms of where to locate the coil because it needed to line up pretty specifically with my phone.
@@ZacBuilds I agree with how and why you made it the way you did. My only thought was if you took a disk of wood, covered it in tuck tape then cast over it, you would have had the shape without having to cut out the hole on your first attempt. With the price of resin, I thought it would save a few dollars and a lot of dust :)
I think that you should have created to thin sheets of epoxy with a hole in the middle half the thickness of the space needed for the wireless charging thing part(creat that hole with a silicone circle mold), add an indentation half the thickness/overall diameter of the cord for where you want the cord also with some silicone cord/filled tube(the same overall diameter of the cord). Once the mold with all of those things are dry, demold and lie the pieces on top of each other matching the halfed openings to then be full openings. Then drill holes at each corner for very small/thin screws ensuring to go through both sheets. Then one of the thin epoxy sheets just drilled through, flip so the indentations are facing whatever flat surface you are drilling on and get a drill bit perfectly sized for a nut for those small screws to go through. The onelce done put that nut so it's flush or flat and then install all parts and put them all together
I know the video is old, but you can use the Osmo, or better yet Rubio Monocoat to turn cloudy epoxy clear. You just need to sand out any deep scratches.
Zach fwiw all the chips on the board are already encapsulated in epoxy. Epoxy, acrylic, silicone, polyurethane, paraxylene, wax etc. are all common circuit board conformal coatings. A thick coating of epoxy etc. is known as a potting compound. A slow cure deep pour epoxy would probably impart the least mechanical stress on the solder joints if not using a purpose formulation of potting compound. Don't know if there is a clear one usually it's also used to make it a little harder to reverse engineer or repair a circuit.
😮Wow that's definitely a very unique and very cool design for a charger. Always real cool to see your videos Zac. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep Making. God bless.
Nice looking and functional.. For your protection film on your epoxy I keep seeing some two part ceramic coating that others use on epoxy kitchen tables but I have no idea if it will produce the results you are looking for.
Try a 3D printing finishing product like XTC (or acetone vapor polish but that's a bit more gear to manage it) or even maybe just thin the original epoxy WAY down so it fills the gaps and put VERY LITTLE ON (after degassing it, since you have a vac pot may as well). Maybe blowtorch the coating to get bubbles out/smooth surface like the tablemaking channels?
I would have cut the channel for the charger back a bit and then created a small groove for the phone to rest in to keep it from falling off the edge of the base when the desk moves. But very nice project, it looks very beautiful, and what an ingenious idea. 👍👍
Wireless charging is slower than a good wired charger, but I have an upright wireless charger at my desk so my phone screen actually faces me and I can pick up the phone at any time, it's basically just my phone's home. Really convenient not to plug and unplug it all the time, it's always charged more than 80% and charging the battery more slowly makes less heat which is healthy for it's longevity... I never want to go back to pre wireless days lol.
interestingly the two probably do not heat up that much because the thermal conductivity of the epoxy vs its mass means that the epoxy is working like a heatsink in a way for both the phone and the charger; the sheer surface area of both allows the outside are to dissipate any built up heat relatively quickly I would imagine
Good work. Your ad in the middle of the video was top notch. If you could have spent as much time on the project it would have came out much better. ETA: Maybe make a wireless motorcycle phone mount next?
Can't imagine how much that would degrade your battery, especially considering that you said that reading live chat comments drains the battery which also inevitably heats up the phone, and the extra heat from such inefficient charging is a recipe for significant premature degradation in battery health
coils tend to need very precisely matchup with phones. a little wedge stripe on the top front of the phone stand should help a lot stabilizing it. as cables wear out over time and also electronics tend to break up - i would not have molded it for eternity into such a block. maybe a pair of PVC plates to put the electronics in between and some super-glued support stripes would have been enough to have a similar clear effect while keeping it maintainable.
this thing REALLY needs a strain relief for the cable since the shielding was not embedded into the epoxy, all of the bend radius is in the unshielded wire strands, they will break soon when bent a lot
was there a reason to clean up the tool marks from the initial milling? As long as the new epoxy is the same as the original cast, the refractive index would be the same and would effectively eliminate the tool marks, no dangerous epoxy sandy necessary
@@ZacBuilds he did have one similar. I believe he did the whole charger inset into the bottom and then added a bowtie so you couldn't see the charger. Which is a common video anymore lol. I think the epoxy would be sharp like yours. However I get that it doesn't solve your problem of wanting to be able to see your phone and not have to look down at it
Thanks Jordan! honestly I have no idea. It's this roll of double sided tape I just kind of found in the shop. I must've picked it up on a jobsite years ago.
Before encasing internal circuit in epoxy You should, Check it under IR cam and improve cooling hot parts. Epoxy is worse heat conductor than flowing air.
Wireless chargers work through a lot of materials. Rockwool actually send out wireless chargers covered with manmade lava rock with their promotion packs, which is pretty cool to look at and free stuff is always good.
Impressive, I wonder how much difference it would make to machine a corner to take into account for the camera bump so the phone sits even closer to the coil?
Could you use hot melt glue to seal the cable in the mold? (Remember that hot melt glue can be released by the mechanical (not chemical!) action of isopropyl alcohol, so unless the epoxy created a tight bond of its own, it should come right off.)
Only one issue - you're missing the magnetic disk that should be on the side of the coil further away from the phone. That reduces both range and transmittable power.
Ya that was actually a deleted seen in this video. I ended up doing away with the magnetic disk because I wanted to be able to see the coil from behind as well. I knew it would probably impact efficiency, but it was a trade off I was willing to make.
Do an experiment: touch a piece of glass and then touch a piece of plastic, any plastic. You will notice that the glass feels cold to the touch even on a warm day. This is because glass is a good heat conductor and plastic is not. The feeling of cold is because the glass is conducting your body heat away from your fingers. Plastic is more of an insulator, you retain the heat in your fingers and the plastic feels warm or at least temperature neutral. The circuit encased in a plastic thermal insulator can be far warmer than what you feel on the surface. Discoloration of overheated electronic components is due mostly to oxidation. Being completely encased in epoxy has severely limited the amount of free oxygen for that chemical process. A fire hazard; I doubt it. A device killer; highly likely. If you use this as you intended, continually charging while using the phone during a long streaming session, it's possible that it will be producing heat for several (or more) hours. Not all electronics are destroyed by heat in a puff of blue smoke, but most electronic components degrade over time if exposed for long periods at the top end of their maximum operating temperatures.
you should try encasing a small camera like a GoPro or other action cam, that would be really neat to see! Probably would have to extend the switches with wires so you can access them outside, as well as the SD card slot, but it would be pretty cool.
If you are ever worried about heat damage, you could cut some kapton tape to fit the charger in the next iteration. However, I’m fairly certain heat won’t be an issue
Edit: All this being said, it looks really really nice 0:40 wireless charging is terrible for your device - a 90 degree connector might be what you want. Unless you really want the wireless one, in which case there are many products for that. Unless you want to DIY it...
@@ZacBuilds all epoxy yellows with age, and it's faster with a clear epoxy. I made it to go in an old car restro. I wanted the wireless charger to pop up out of the dash to attach my phone to.
There was an old gentleman in my home town that encased inexpensive cameras and microphones in epoxy for a local orca (killer whale) research lab. He passed away a few years back so I’m thinking I may look into trying the same… good video.
l have some suggestions for next Epoxy video: Epoxy skateboard deck just for fun 😊 I know it is not a great idea but just for fun and looks amazing as well 🤩.
I wonder if you could set up some sort of liquid-cooling system for this type of thing, using the same sort of technology as those bubble pipes on old Wurlitzer jukeboxes. I mean, it vaporizes the liquid near the heat source, then condenses it elsewhere - thats _basically_ how liquid cooling works...right?
Why not address any potential overheating issues by adding / drilling some needle thin heat exhaust ports...maybe in an artistic pattern / design that would maybe even add some pizazz to the otherwise plain slab of acrylic.
Would be nice for an update of after you have been using it with your stream chat on it because one of the largest heat generation is when a phone is in use, so if you have the phone putting out heat that they try to disapte via the back and then the charger having heat it's dual sources of heat is the epoxy still good after that?
Looks very neat but I'm afraid it won't last long - heat transfer to air is blocked and epoxy is not a great thermal conductor either. Also, the ferrite core fragments have been removed, which means inductance of the coil will be lower. Thus, less reactance same resistance, so you get less efficiency (= more heat). No way to repair it now for obvious reasons. Let's hope it can have a second life as a decorative object or paper weight, the fellers at the e-waste plant won't be happy about this either 😅
Would like to see a led lightstrip recessed about 1 cm in the back of your desk. From outer left to the outer right of your desk. The epoxy should the be mixed with a little bit of white pigments to difuse the light. That way, the light comming of the ledstrip is soft
Verifying coil placement is a good idea when doing these. There isn't a whole lot of standard when it comes to placement so chargers in vertical orientations usually have multiple coils to ensure optimal coupling.
something you could do, leave the edges opaque, and then wire in that charging LED at the bottom, so when you put your phone on it, the whole thing lights up