Acrylic textures for reproducing muddy terrain on vignettes or dioramas, as well as for texture on the wheels of a car or truck, the lower part of vehicles, and the accumulations of mud on tank tracks.
That really looks good, especially the Light Mud when used to depict dried mud as seen on the tractor's inner fender. It saves time over the other method, which is plaster plus acrylic paint tint. The application through dabbing with a sponge looks to be the key technique, here. Thank you for the clip.
The mud seems to be a good product... I often mix a little real mud/soil/sand with it. My only gripe with this vid is that Vallejo make it seem like the tub is completely full, right to the top, with mud. Well my 4 large tubs were all about 2/3 full.
Been kinda torn on either getting the European or Russian mud for applying to rusted surfaces. I feel like the grey would work better as a contrast, but I also want to base with these, and my army is silver.
I have all these not tried them yet still using grount and plaster over the foam first waiting for it to all cure just now , this video has always interested me in the pebble used not sure if you would find am that out from a water source beach area but cool all the same
Hello! Gloves are only if you want to avoid undesirable stains on your hands but a simple wash with water and soap makes the cleaning easily from your hands :)
Como limpio despues el barro del pincel? Se puede enjuagar y lavar con agua y ya se retira todo o se necesita algo en especial? Incluso el que es thick mud and grass
The "leaves" are in fact catkins from birch ou weeping willow. Check lower right part of this drawing : fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bouleau#/media/File:Illustration_Betula_pendula0.jpg Now it is still the good time to harvest them. I harvested mine one month ago on the side of the road and in a park. Break them with the hand, put them in a dish, and winnow them, the wind will blow away the seed part that is lighter and leave you with these "leaves". It is not very hard and not too long to do. There is some tutorials on how to do it on RU-vid, but some people separate the "leaves" from the seed with some twizers... what a hard and boring work... it is better to winnow them for 10-20 minutes. The natural color is as you see it in the video, but they can be tinted. Personnally, I mix them with a little PVA and watered down cheap acrylic paint, and let them dry on a flat plastic surface, it makes some clump folliage to build trees. Some manufacturers of miniature trains sell them but they can be a bit expensive (maybe Noch ?). At one point Games Workshop also sold some (probably at some crasy price...).
Does the mud dry to the point that it can be highlighted with other acrylic paints? For example, if I wanted to use a mud as a primary base application for miniatures?
Hello WalashGo! The drying time depends on the humidity or ambient temperature but you must be able to touch it and feel the surface with a hard texture. Maybe... 24h if you want to be sure it cured/dry properly (also if you added a thick layer of product) 👍🏻
I am an artist. I mostly just paint mud. / This stuff looks great. Not sure what uses I will have for it but I will get a couple bottles to dirty up some things. Question is, which mud to buy? Given the news these days, it will not matter which ones I buy. They will all be RUSSIAN!
Man it's 12 euros for 200 ml, if you sum paint, pva, sand and the time to mix it properly, this is way cheaper, also with pva to achive this level of 3d you need to do more levels (so more time, and more stuff) cause since pva is 80% water, it loses volume too easily. Of course you can do 1 level, and be happy with a simple result, nobody ever gonna judge a 'super glue + non painted sand' base, but this stuff is simply amazing and great cost value and for the time, you can't do it any better way.
