This 13900K did NOT want to be delidded! 

Not entierly true. i delidded with a kit from aliexpress for $9. my 12700kf, side to side and had no issues. i was careful though and heated it up with a blow dryer.

@@Hammercannon i had watched der8auers video on his delid tool and he was talking about how it could be done but he wasn't going to market it as 12th gen due to the risk

Rockitcool for 12th gen goes side to side, resistors are only on one side, so you can only go in one direction, but it works great. Just used the same one for 13th gen. He should have used some heat. I have also seen a bunch of people who were sent this kit have trouble with the threads on the delid tool

@Strong Island X used the rockitcool one on my last build and I didn't even need the heat, just went slow and was perfect

@@Hammercannon An idiot surviving a car crash without a seatbelt does not mean that seatbelts are unnecessary. Anecdotal evidence does not refute the reasoning for DerBauer's lack of 12th gen support.

The guys are gonna like come in when this build is done and be like "JAY WHY THE HECK ARE YOU SOAKING WET!" Jay: "Just trying to move the new EVGA build to the proper work area..."

@@MJSGamingSanctuary LOOOOOOOOOOOOLOLOLOL!!!111!!!!!111!!!!1!!!!!11

Now the carbon fiber frame is functional: weight redux!

@@Nareimooncatt Just need now to dip the rest of the non electronic parts in like a rose gold. and will have one beautiful effing PC rig.

Try a mass loaded silent case sometime, theyre ridiculously heavy XD

You could also anodize them it turns out it's not that hard to do it at home

@@seablake4116 They are stainless steel, not aluminium

@@ic_trab it can still be anodized just a bit more complicated

this is a fast and dirty way of doing it and I love it. It can look amazing.

gonna go that nuts u could just use gold leaf

Or a gold sharpie!

Honestly, a kind of brass color might complement the gold ! :D

Or gold leaf

Totally agree, although brass look like brass only in youtube videos (i.e. freshly machined/brushed)

He said that he doesnt like the maintenance associated with liquid metal. The paste he used is super high performance stuff, even better than liquid metal regarding temperature cycles, meaning it would last super long and not need replacement.

Direct die with paste will be better.

There is no way this is going to be similar or worse then w/ a IHS. All gpu blocks use thermal paste instead of LM. It's just easier to work with and last a lot longer. The temp difference on the first day will be only 2-3C at most, remember whatever in between the coldplate and die it has to be as thin as possible, the biggest problem with a stock IHS is the thickness (a few milimeters) of the IHS itself. For direct die no matter it's LM or thermal paste it's only going to be a few micrometers thick after the proper install of the block, the effect of thermal conductivity difference is going to be tiny. I would actually suggest people to use thermal paste because if you have a contact problem between the die and coldplate, you can at least see your cpu throttling with thermal paste, with LM and a bad contact your cpu will die before you have a chance to see anything.

@@AprilVic The thing is the CPUs are soldered with indium to the IHS. This is why I think paste would be worse. Also the pump out effect is a lot more pronounced on CPUs because the die is smaller with so much heat output. My 4790K I had this happen a lot, initially it'd be ok but the paste would eventually pump out and I'd have to redo it a bunch. The GPU argument also doesn't work here, GPUs have never had a soldered IHS prior too. The ones which did have an IHS used paste underneath to begin with. Not to mention the density per square mm also wasn't as bad. 350w in a tiny space such as a 13900K vs a GPU which has a die much bigger. They're different scenarios. Also the kit he is using is in every way designed to be used well with liquid metal. I'd agree doing pretesting with paste is fine to check the contact patch, but using liquid metal makes so much sense for the actual cooling aspect. EK purposely nickel plate the block so there isn't really any maintenance that needs doing, typically people complain of "dry out" because liquid metal makes an alloy with copper (either they're using a copper IHS or cold plate). I also don't see him using that block or CPU again after taking the system apart so I also don't see where the maintenance argument comes into play here. They also give you a highly compressable foam guard so you could go pretty heavy with your application aswell if you wanted without worry of spillage into places it can cause damage. Also lets not forget the higher the heatout the bigger the difference in paste vs liquid metal. Seems like a no brainer to me to use liquid metal.

@@AprilVic You would know immediately after applying either thermal paste or liquid metal if not enough was used or poor contact was made with the die. For long term thermal paste is better no doubt although it dries out eventually as well.

did you use the ek delid tool or rockitcool?

I wonder if he would change his thoughts on it now? My guess he uses it because it there.

he wasn't dismissive, he said it's nice (but also that he preferred the electric thingy)

@@formbi but barely uses it in videos lol

Just don't drop it, who knows what'll happen 😅 sorry Linus ya clumsy goof

@@tomferguson9250 Yeah very first time I dropped mine it broke a clip as well. Their support was really nice and even reached out to me to warranty it after I left a review, so there's that at least. It's a shame because the ratchet mechanism does feel nice and the knurling is handy, but I don't trust even just using it around the house because I'd hate to break my replacement.

If only the L-Connect 3 software wasn't such a pain in the ass to deal with (I couldn't get my lights to work so I just set the controls to the motherboard and run Signal).

They are worse than Arctic p12 on rads which is the budget king. Those fans look good, but performance is just okay.

I need to figure out how good of an aio I need for the 13700k and 13900k because I'm building this week and I can't decide

My thermal grizzly contact frame that I ordered a month ago came with a longer set of screws. Not sure if I got a new stock or if they’ve refreshed this, but I did need this longer set that was included for my Z790 Maximus Hero.

@@tsnow20 Mine did not get any screws. They must have brought as new revision out that included that. They told me to buy the longer screws and they would Paypal the cost of it. I denoed it and now I have it but not using it.

Anodizing isn't actually that hard either

Yeah its a shame the GPU hid the logo, i would keep the GPU where it is but lay it down flat with the fans pointed downwards...or even upwards, and lower it down some more somehow (3d printed brackets?) so it shows more of the Kingpin logo and motherboard in general. But i do like ur idea of having it on the back also.

That would be ass backwards considering intel smokes AMD in the workstation area.

Ok

it was, he used it for his review of the chip

This comment should be higher. I feel like just powering it on with that massive gold heatsink would get you past memory training and into UEFI without overheating.

@@CRISPdotTV he benchmarked it for review before delidding. Otherwise the results wouldn't be any good since you're not testing it as consumers would receive it.

@@CRISPdotTV He doesn't mean testing it to figure out how much better it is delidded. But to test it to see if the delidding broke it before making the custom loop.