Once more, i laughed my ass off......Taryl, ur chanel is SUPER cool, practical, useful, and MOST of all FUN!!!....yer vid at the Vintage bike thing in Ohio, was VERY cool, this one, is just pure coolness.....i am HAPPY to be a subscriber, and look fwd to ALL new vids, as they are (again) fun, smart, informative, and just down rite AWESOME!!!.......you ARE the man!!!!!......btw, i rode a Maico 250 once (i'm 5'4" 110 lbs)......ran the crap outa it, scared my buddies wife cuz i'm a full throttle guy.......the Maico u came across at the vintage motorcycle show brought back those memories of screamin my buds Maico, and scarin the CRAP outa his wife, as she thought i'd crash.....well i didnt, cuz i'm a smart rider, but i DO like Full throttle.....hHahaha.....WOOOOOOOO....NOW THERES UR DINNER!!!!...WOOOOOOOO.....TY for ur chanel, and TY for puttin up wit me...PEACE my brother!!
Hi Taryl, I’ve been fighting cancer for a few years which means a certain amount of time laid up flat on my back, chemo makes you feel awful. It Is a terrific distraction to watch you wrench on engines, thanks for all you and the gang do!
I put Slick 50 in my 93 caddy at 50k miles. ran for 4k-5k miles, then regular oil change. Same at 100k & 150k. Traded it off at 230k or so, ran great. don't know if it was the Slick 50 or regular oil changes that did it, but those 4.9L motors were awesome!
It was the regular oil changes. I've owned 4 vehicles in my lifetime, and none have failed when performing 3000 mile oil changes (and 5000 mile changes with full synthetic). Most have rusted out by 400-500k miles, but no engine failures.
Hi Taryl. That was an interesting video about Slick 50 and Briggs About 12 years ago just after I had set up, a Briggs powered mower come in and I did the usual run it up to hear how it ran and to get the engine oil warm so it would drain out easily. I removed the bottom oil plug (I didn't have an oil sucker back then) and I got about 6 drops of oil out of it! When I put oil in the engine, it smoked a little bit but ran fine. They did build good stuff years ago.
I have a collector Dale Earnhardt Slick 50 bottle with a autographed baseball together still in original wrapper. I remember buying Quaker State motor oil bundled with Duralube for my 2001 Chevy S10. Still have that on the shelf.
I use to run quaker state high horse power oil in the clear bottles of oil in the quarts had a 93 chevy camaro on the label sure wish I had a unused bottle for nostalgia purposes peace ✌️ and much respect to you 👍 JASON
where have you and your multi-talented family been!!??? I have missed seeing you. Maybe since your content is family friendly, helpful, informative, comical & TRUTHFUL the platform is monkeying with your channel equation......
They still sell slick 50 here in Canada. I don't believe in any additives really, including seafoam which everyone seems to think is the greatest. Fresh gas and fresh oil is all you need
I remember seeing a V-8 with no oil pan or valve covers running at a show and asking my boss about it (he had a sizeable antique Ford collection, a serious hobby race engine machine shop and had been in the race scene for 60 years). He told me they would have machined everything loose, backed off the piston rings and not even install all them, probably modify the pistons, made oil-impregnated bushings, dropped the compression, add a touch of 2 stroke oil to the gas or lead additive, adjust the timing and all kinds of tricks that is also common for serious guys building demolition derby cars too. “Tricks of the trade”
you are correct and in 1998 we had one of them engine show up some how someone got one but didn't know as we were taking it apart we kept saying the same thing have you ever seen anything like this . almost like someone didn't build the engine right but as we kept gone we figured out it was one of the engines used for slick 50 .
As I remember that Slick 50 advertisement they ran a Volvo motor full throttle 100 hours without any engine oil then did a tear down and inspection claiming "No "-significant-engine- damage! "WOW"
I've seen that footage on RU-vid a few years ago, seeing an engine run with no sump pan is certainly weird for a start. I never even thought that were running non standard pistons etc,..crafty bastards.
You deserve a proper high level place in small engine repair history! You make learning the process fun and enertaining but you are thorough and professional at the same time..a combo Oscar and Nobel Prize would be nice! Thank you for sharing all your hard work and knowledge!
Ya gotta love those old B&S engines, they're almost indestructible. This video brought back 50+ year old memories when I was in my middle teens and picking these things up out of trash piles, scavenging parts from various engines to make one good one for a mini bike project. Great video! Thanks.
Well a relatives MerCruiser engine lost all of its oil.. by the time the Captain noticed, and because of weather conditions, the engine was run for many MILES without oil trying to get back to port. That relative credits Slick 50 for saving the engine. That engine continued to run until the boat was structurally compromised for other reasons many years later. From what I understand, slick 50 was originally used by the military in Blackhawk helicopters. But had a formula change after a while and was never the same... Teflon is very good for what it was intended to do..but it does last for a very long time, and can have consequences if it's not used right.
Nice to see you finally exposed the "snake oil" sellers 😂 When I seen this engine at the Portland bike show I didn't think you would ever get it to run again because of the abuse it was put through, glad to see you've proven me wrong! There's ur dinner! 🍔🍟
That reminded me of the green plug they were advertising when you walked in the door at Home Depot they claim that if you plug this unit in you can save on half of your electric bill on any appliance
Yeah, and as it turns out all the device is, is an electrical flow meter so you can monitor how many watts, volts and amps the appliance is using and basically "scaring" you into using it less.
We are the original Slick 50 formula," states Bill Smith, President/CEO of Xcelplus. "When a customer buys Slick 50 today, a brand owned by Shell Oil (NYSE:RD) after they bought Pennzoil/Quakerstate, that consumer is not getting the original formula.Sep 27, 2004
I have one of those. Never been run. My dad was a slick 50 rep so he could take the tax write off on his motorhome. Don't know how much if any he ever sold. Had the original box but it finally became diner for the local cardboard eaters.
Back in the day, mid 1980s, one of our aircraft mechanics talked me into buying some Slick 50 for my motorcycle (1982 Honda CB900) and our Subaru GL station wagon. It was the original formula that came in a metal can and it was best to cut the top of the can off so you could take a screwdriver or spatula and mix up the teflon that had settled in the bottom of the can...and geez, was there ever a bunch of stuff in there too. If I recall, you used 1 quart of Slick 50 in a 4 quart car engine. My boss and I split a can for our motorcycle engines. After a few miles my motorcycle engine did start idling faster and I had to reset the idle speed a couple times. I also did notice that I could push the choke in a little sooner than normal. My Subaru I couldn't tell much difference in, but it was such an underpowered pig I don't anything could have helped it. But 4 or 5 years later, my wife was driving the Subaru and it overheated on her. Since she was going to a Tupperware party she didn't have time to stop (female logic at its best). When she came home I could hear her before I could see her and when she pulled in the driveway the car had smoke rolling out of the hood and was knocking something fierce. To say I was pissed would have been an understatement. The radiator was bone dry and when I drained the oil there wasn't more than 1 quart in it and it was black and cooked. I had the radiator repaired and filled the engine up with fresh new oil (non synthetic in those days) and to my surprise the car started but wouldn't run over 1500 rpm. I was so mad I decided to take it out to the highway and blow it up so I could get rid of it and teach her a lesson. Well, the car started to run a little faster, then a little faster still until after 5 or 6 miles it was back to it's old self. Good oil pressure, good coolant temp, no complaints. That stupid car lasted us another few years and we probably put another 30-35,000 miles on it before we finally traded it in. I'm giving the Slick 50 credit for that. But I don't think this new stuff they sell is the real deal. Sorry for the long post Taryl, but just thought I'd pass along my snake oil experience.
As a child I remember the original Slick 50, my Dad swore by it after loosing the oil plug on his 1979 vw rabbit diesel made it home after a 120 mile round trip commute to work. He would leave home at 3:30 am and didn’t see the huge oil puddle on the driveway before he left. The engine survived and ran another 60,000 miles till the car was t boned and totaled. The later slick 50 was purchased by another company that supposedly changed the formula at the starting of a competitor Duralube. That engine had 256,000 miles on it , original everything but brakes and at least four exhaust systems. The exhaust last three years max. Because of this we had four vw rabbits. I remember it well because he almost cried as the car was purchased new and would have been destroyed but we did have to replace the driveway that year, the oil dissolved the asphalt .
Well your right Slick 50 brand was sold. But the Founder kept the original formula and started another company with it. There is a RU-vid video of the Founder.
I once bought a B&S engine that was in a box all in pieces at a flea market. I cleaned it up and rebuilt it and my dad put it on an even older brush hog and ran it for 20 years until he sold it.
I love watching Taryl hit stuff with a hammer. Never gets old. When I was little we used two screw drivers to pry up on the flywheel and you had you buddy wack the shaft with a hammer. I was 14 before I could do it by myself.
You could probably use that clear side cover as a template to have a couple made. Then you could keep the snake oil engine together and on a shelf as a collectors item.
I remember when they came out with slick 50. I know a lot of people who saw the demonstration and were convinced it was great stuff. I never tried it because I have always thought that if you keep clean oil in whatever engine, it would be fine.
I have bought it and put it in a old Hanomag R35/45 cause I thought it would loose and clean piston rings and over here in Holland it was stated that the Teflon would stick to the bare metal inside the engine , so no more engine wear . I might have the leaflet or the empty bottle somewhere .. Nice to see this .. Slick 50 brings back memories from long gone days ..
Great video, very sad to see the little 2hp slowly die. I know project farms has covered this but have been great to see it tested with new slick 50 treatment. RIP little motor
I've actually broken an old flywheel using a puller, but I've never broken a flywheel using the pry bar method, and it's always worked very quickly. Never doubt Taryl!
I went to a car show in the early 90's, and there was a slick-50 rep there. He had a device similar to project farm's bearing grinder. The rep showed the bearing screeching and smoking after using conventional oil and draining it, and then running smooth as silk after having slick-50 in it and draining it. They also used to have a ton of tv commercials running engines with no oil. That engine with that cover is a pretty cool piece of history.
I wonder why they didn't use zddp and graphite, one of the other self lubricating solids, they are other companies using it, I like hi-tach/ Lucas I use that crap in every thing, it's like honey , with something sticky in it! Or honey on steroids!! I use it to build engines, and fill the oil pump with it,. So it instantly primes, mix about half and half with 20w50 oil, I have been thinking about getting some of the euro car oil 0w20 or whatever, to fill lifters with and mix with Lucas for break in, Lucas and a bottle of zddp, especially for flat tappets, should break in well, maybe a half bottle of Lucas and 0w20 with zddp, or at least 5w30, I usually run 10w30, 10w40 depending on bearing clearance, I may run 4qts of 10w30, and 2qts of 20w50, and half qt of Lucas, to get that sticky mess when I change oil, the 20w50 just fills the looser bearing a bit more, , it's not like I'm going to run a Quart of 80w90 in a engine! Hahaha 😆, yeah 80w90 and a qt of Lucas!! 🤔
If anyone wants the best protection Mobil 1 full synthetic motor oil has outperformed any other synthetic and regular motor oil every time. But at the end of the day, if you don't check or change your oil, nothing will save your engine. Once its overheating from lack of lubrication and or knocking, it's all over regardless of what oil you use. There is no magic additive to replace common sense. Good vid Taryl.
Fire it up , fire it up . Where has the Human Shop Rag been at Taryl haven't seen him here lately ------ did he wear out his welcome ????? I run Delo 30 weight or 40 weight in all my flat tappit motors , if it good for your diesel engines it good enough for my lawn maintenance motors , their not going to outer space 🌌🚀. Well I guess your gonna have to change Ronnie's name to Tommy Turd ------ since he's a sum bag!!!!!!!
I don't remember the engines like that used to advertise Slick 50, I do remember where they coated one side of some slugs that come out of electrical boxes. When you put the coated sides together and held between your thumb and finger you had a hard time keeping them from sliding. I never thought it worked inside an engine. I just keep up on oil changes.
In 1953, Norm Larsen's three-man staff set out to create a water displacement formula to be a rust-prevention solvent and degreaser. After 39 unsuccessful attempts, WD-40 was invented
a lot of rookies been asking me about this old oils saying this should avoid engine seized up i grab it n open it n pour down they underwear n tell them does that stop it from seized up nut? probably not because it was fake it never last it never worked because doesnt stick to metal or aluminum it just slide off of it it useless they jaw just dropped like whaaaaattttttt if you wanted save your engine so badly than stay away from snake oils 50 them go for 10w30 with motor lube (small black containers) it should last you forever longer keep changing that oils every 3 weeks used everyday or 5k miles no question and there your dinners i first bought my truck ranger 96 that have 140k miles on it i change oils from 5w30 to 10w30 with motor lube n changing oils every 5k miles it last me all way to 877k miles it died out because of head just cracked in half (block n everything else still in good shape just bad head that about all) i still kept her n still looking for headmfor her 2.3l i want find 2.5l that came out of 2002 ranger head if anyone have it i want it because want get her pass 1million miles so i can successfully my truck beat it
Doesn't matter if the Teflon would stick to metal. There's still the issue of the gap between bearing surfaces. All non ball bearing bearing surfaces are hydraulic bearings. Something has to fill the Gap in the bearing. If there's not positive oil pressure being fed to the bearings at all times the oil will simply squeeze out of the bearing and it will be metal to metal after that point. Teflon would work but you would need to continually be pumping it into the bearing to fill the Gap between bearing surfaces. Stop pumping and whatever you put in will eventually work out and it will be metal to metal. Remember hydraulic bearing. The oil becomes the bearing also This is where viscosity comes in. Old engines with loose tolerances need thicker oil like 10w30. Tighter newer engines can use thinner oils like 0w20. You can also substitute heavy oil with higher oil pressure in a Warn out engine but if there's no option to do so you have to go with a heavy oil. Or both new oil pump & heavier oil. Slick 50 is neither it's just a false sense of security. Modern snake oil for your engine.
used slick 50 1 time. in my wife's car. when it had about 15000 miles on it. i always serviced it myself. started ticking and noisy. drained oil that had slick 50. aluminum/brass particles. basically ruined engine. snake oil.
Dark waters is a fantastic movie. Very good story. Ptfe, with it's 8 Carbon atoms making it one of the hardest substances out there, is a 'forever' chemical. Scientists estimate every living creature on earth has some by now, and it never, ever goes away. Thanks Taryl for this great video.
I can't say that slick 50 reduces wear but I dumped a quart in my motorcycle and the clutch slipped so bad the bike would not even move had to change the oil several times before it would actually work properly so whatever is in there to reduce friction works works %300
Slick 50 use to have a Farmall M tractor they took to all the farm shows. They remove the oil pan and put a mirror on the ground under the engine so you could watch the crank and rods spin without any oil in it. The tractor ended up in the salvage yard.
years ago i had 200 hp 2 stroke Merc outboard,in kit for application there was 3 small bottles ? any had to put in while running and had to fog it in,anyway it idled 200 rpm higher ever since,i think its less resistance on movind parts?
Had an old mini bike had a 5 hp I/c Briggs got into an accident full tilt 50-60kmh and engine was still running when the bike flipped slid and dropped into a ditch engine lasted longer than the frame they don’t make em like that anymore
I remember when this Slick 50 shit came out and it was touted as the cure-all for your engine woes. Turns out it was crap. The only oil additive that was ever worth a sh!t was STP oil treatment.
20 + years ago I used A additive called Prolong in 2 different GM cars almost 300,000 Miles whether it was due to the additive not sure.. but I was happy..
Slick 50 was rubbish. Here in NZ they had a thing with nylon spprockets in a clear tank with a crank handle to demonstrate it. Oil by itself is better.
I have an engine just like that. My boss, 22 years ago, was going to toss it in the trash and asked if I wanted it, I said Oh yea! The engine runs great and it's amazing how the oil splatters and sprays all over in the crank case. My engine does not have the signage but is on a mount just like yours. Also my engine does not have a serial number on the air shroud. If you got a minute, can you send me the number off your engine? Thanks for the video.
Project Farm did a test on a couple of lawn mower engines about five years ago. One was with Slick 50 and one without. The Slick 50 engine actually locked up sooner than the other one.😂
It's amazing how long they were able to continue the scam, and still do, under a new name, with the same old snake oil. Duralube, too. I guess there's no end to the marks.
I was impressed with that connecting rod cap how they machine it so it would stay in one place there’s a company called da D.N.J. there in Ohio they do diesel engine work and they sell connecting rods with the very same type of machine work on the cap to keep everything stable extremely impressed by that with Briggs & Stratton and also the roller bearing I saw on the crank anyway this is Jim bongo again thanks Terrell that was very entertaining and informative and I’ll tell you something else before I sign off I’m getting ready to hit the sack I got to get up at 3 o’clock tomorrow morning go to work anyway my theory is this if you have to add an additive to existing oil to bring it up to some decent specifications by a better grade of oil all right catch you later guy
Interesting to see you come across this and the associated snake oil discussion. I used Slick 50 in a 1.6lt isuzu engine in the 90's and saw all of the claimed results. I ran that engine without oil, coolant, sump and rocker cover once the car was sold to a mate who wanted to replace the motor, to try to kill it. The engine never stopped or got hot. Peter Brock raced RX-7's sponsored by Slick 50 at Bathurst in the 80's against Holdens and Fords, and had an unimaginable reliability compared to competitors. It's undeniable that Slick 50 did what was claimed, my local aero mechanic has it in his Jacobs radial powered biplane. The product was ruined in the 2000's but has been reformulated and renamed Xcell plus.
Slick 50 and synthetic oil together made a jelly type substance and ruined countless engines. I rebuilt several car engines in the 80s because of that junk Slick 50.
I see you found that Briggs and stranton ran the engine with the snake oil for 20 hours and then 20 hours without the snake oil. how long did the other engine run without the regular oil?
Ok Mr. Dactal, enjoy your shows and your information has helped me with my MTD Yard Machine. 18 Hp 2003 Model 13AP608G129. I went to a push button start with a kill switch. Add the shut off valve, and a fuel on toggle switch. I want to finish wiring the alternator in to charge the Battery while it runs, But I am having problems finding a schematic for this model. Tried Parts pro, but they never responded to my Email. Do you have another source for the wiring diagram. Oh Yeah, I did work on the Space Shuttle program, at Vandenberg AFB, Now Vandenberg Space force Base Ca. Most exciting job I ever had.
The PURPOUSE is to get you a few miles down the road. And in 5 min you could get down the road. And you just said they got 20 hours. And also that engine probably did 10 demos. So it ran without oil 10 TIMES. IM Saying it works. Cause when it gets oil into the bearing its gonna smash the Teflon into the bearing. I can see the cylinder wall coated with Teflon. TARYL It Works. Can't Knock it because that engines been through 10 or more tests
Read it better, they got two *brand new* engines and after a break-in with slick 50 in one and regular oil in the other and *both* ran for 20 hours without oil and *without any load* No load does the trick, not slick 50, under load they would have lasted about 10 minutes at most, ask the people who buy all kinds of new machines and *don't see the huge label* that says they come without any oil, they'll all tell you it worked perfectly for the first 5 minutes and then it broke, the poor engines end up with holes in the engine block caused by the chunk of connecting rod stuck to the crankshaft journal that hits the block walls, the camshaft and whatever parts it reaches. And I bet in 20 hours without load they suffered more wear than an engine running at rated load for 2000 hours with oil and regular oil changes. That cylinder isn't coated, it's simply glazed, PTFE won't stick to anything even under heat, you can apply PTFE tape to pipe fittings, assemble them and solder them AFTER with silver-tin alloy and the PTFE remains intact, you can undo it and if the tape wasn't cut by the threads it will look exactly as it left the roll the first time.
It’s funny that Dupont came out with their own version of Slick 50 called TMT the Teflon Motor Treatment. If one does some research you’ll dig up several other brands of PTFE Teflon treatments made in the 80’s. One is Tephguard. FYI original formula Slick 50 is still made in Australia.
That was awesome, loved it! Nobody at work would listen to me when I told them that crap was snake oil back in the 80’s. There were articles about it in all the papers and I used to cut them out and pin ‘em up on the bulletin boards at work. All those guys would tear them down and keep believing in all the BS!
Really cool seeing the inside of the crankcase at the end with the slinger pushing all that oil around. You can’t kill an old flathead, man. Even if you do they’re easy to bring back to life LOL!
I love these old B&S engines and I have never had one fail no matter how abused they were before I got them. Some that are 10-20 years old with next to no service done to them and after a good clean and service they fire right up. I have one that is from the 60's and it still runs like it just came off the showroom floor. So I am wondering why that joke of breaks and Scrap'Em?
The best way to adjust those carbs, is at about 5,000 rpm and turn it out until it runs gooder! When it's atits best, turn it in about 3/4-1 turn, you may need to go 1.5, so it will idle without smoking, I had mine on. A 5hp kart, I cut the head, much more and it would need valve clearance, and ported it and polished the exhaust port, back cut the valves, broke all the edges on the valves, to promote flow, it did Good , being all stock parts, I'd say it did about 7-8 maybe 9hp, but I ran oil in mine!! Haha 😆
I bought push mowers someone returned to the L#@*$ home improvement, got them for like $5 each, they were returned because someone didn't put oil in it, I just turned it over backwards a couple times then forward, making sure it still would spin, put oil in it, it ran fine, I sold it for $100, I wish I could do that every day, I'd even take the weekend off!!
Back in the '80's we had a fleet manger that swore by the Slick 50. We had about 300 cars and trucks it never did anything, but I think he got a kick back from them for using it. They still sell it, but not sure who buys it.
i remember a counter top display that had several gears between 2 pieces of clear (plexiglass ?) and a handle that you cranked by hand . you could see the product (slick 50 ?) transferred from bottom gear to upper ones . never saw an actual engine display though . also , there was a muffler display with a cutaway portion , and the rest molded clear , to look like the muffler casing . a kid in my school said that he was gonna get some of those see thru mufflers when he got his 1st car . yeah , we weren't harvard material , lol .
My auto mechanics teacher in high school had one of those displays, back in 1991. Was it an early display for Lucas Oil? Seems like i remember the colors being similar. I used to crank that thing almost every day. Lol. All of us did.
