Orange locktite doesn't hold as hard as red but is heat resistant. Blue locktite isn't heat resistant. Blue locktite vibrationally is probably strong enough for you, but you're heating it up so it loses its strength. Orange is tougher than blue, weaker than red, and thermally resistant.
@@pb7087 its not awesome for heat but good to like 170F so good for hunting or precision where your letting the barrel cool... i wouldn't use it on something your blasting rounds out of but works great for 90% of practical applications
Use nail polish in place of loctite. It will lock the threads, is heat and vibration resistant, and breaks loose easily when needed. It also cleans up easily as well
I use o-rings on direct thread quite often. Think about it like a wave washer. And no, I haven’t had melting issues while running semi auto on ar/sub guns. If they work for hot auto engines, they’ll be fine for sustained fire from a bolt gun.
I highly recommend Vibra-TITE VC-3 in place of loc tite. It doesn't dry hard (more like a tacky gel) so you can remove and reinstall parts without having to reapply it. Paramount Tactical reccomended it and I have been using it on every firearm since. It does better than loctite when dealing with the vibration caused by operating your firearm and transporting it while hunting because it is designed to resist vibrations.
yea its what i use on all my rifles 100% better than any loctite brand thread locker for this type of application. my comment above has the full name for anyone interested
You were asking about thread lock for the suppressor. Silencerco sends "rockset" brand thread lock with their ASR muzzle devices. Might be worth looking into. I typically just check to make sure my suppressor is snug in between each group, and every so often during a hunt. Would be cool to see you do a video on this topic after doing some research so we can all learn with you! Thanks
I mix 3 to 1 blue and red Loctite. You can experiment with a nut, bolt and Torque wrench. Mix them together apply to nut and bolt, let them dry overnight. See how much Torque it takes to remove the nut. Adjust if more or less Touque is needed. FYI, my cartridge of choice is the 6.5 x 55 Swedish. I have it in a military M38, Howa, and in a Competitor handgun. They are all capable of 1 inch MOA at a hundred. I also have a 6MMBR barrel for the Competitor. You can really get the full potential of the Sweed with handloads. Thanks for the posts.
I've been hunting with Berger bullets since John Burns put out his first best of the west long range hunting video. They have never failed me and are insanely accurate in every rifle I've tried them in
If you want somthing better then locktite blue. Vibra Tite vc3 is good for guns. Stays stronger then blue locktite and is designed to keep integrity with recoil/sudden vibration in mind. Also is resusable like blue locktite.
With your attention to precision I was wondering why you dont measure the farthest outside marks on your bullet group minus the bullet diameter? I think guessing on the exact center of the hole is less precise.
6.5 PRC, 56.3gr RL-26, 0.030 off, Rem mag primer. 20" Bergara at 2865 f/s. I could get it over 2900 with RL-26 but it opened up a lot. H1000 was very slow and retumbo worked but not as well as Rl-26
Vc-3 thread locker vibration resistant. Doesn't harden like locktite removable and reusable. Don't know how it handles high heat though. Never used it on a muzzle device. It's pretty much replaced loctite in my toolbox though. Rockset might be your huckleberry if you're deadset that thing absolutely can't come loose. PITA to remove if you need to though.
Brake Cleaner is Loctite's best friend (or any thread locker). Everything in the firearm industry has a slight amount of oil film on it. Especially new parts. Grab a rag or Qtip and wipe off threads (both male and female sides) with Brake Cleaner, let dry, apply your thread locker. Nobody seems to believe me. Yet I havent had a scope base/rings or action screws ever come loose. Hope this helps.
I just love this guy. Rich, happy, and insanely positive. When I think about my life goals, and where I want to be, watching his videos makes me feel inspired and positive about the potential that life has to offer!!
I use scope shield covers on every gun i own. Best for wet environments. Hands down. Look um up. Western Washington, not much wetter in late October and November.
Purple loctite dude, the high temp low hold stuff that’s resistant to chemicals and oils. It’s great for gun parts because it holds up to CLP and acts like antiseize when torquing to spec. Guys using green or red or the rockit stuff are nuts.
I can't tell what can that is, but if it's HUB thread pattern in the back (1.375" x 24 threads) then you can add a mounting adapter system like Rearden, SilencerCo Bravo, Q Cherry Bomb, etc. Mounting adapters have angular mounting faces that wedge the can on then force it to center straight and not slip during thermocycling like the flat face edges on a direct thread can will. Your solution is a mounting adapter. Then you Rocksett the adapter to your muzzle and use just a touch of moly anti seize on the adapter to suppressor threads once in a while.
Although the majority of your content isn't about anything that I actually do, I have an interest in those areas and enjoy your content! I do have a gripe though, since these aren't rifles that I am familiar with, especially chassis guns and I can appreciate that the actual brand of the rifle may not be important in a story such as this, I would personally like to know what it is! Thanks for your content!
For hunting purposes any loctite will do the trick. They usually have a failure temperature for around 300f or 150c. Wich your silencer will never see on a hunt. But if you think heat will be a problem, you can always use Loctite 270, which can withstand 300c or 570f
Addition of an O-ring could be an easy fix. Possibly a heat resistance thread compound. Word of caution- because I know how people are in general, don’t believe anyone if they tell you green. It’ll never come off
I have a Model 10 FCP SR that Ive replaced the stock with a Boyd's At-1 that Ive Pillared and Bedded. Ive put in a Rifle Basix trigger at 10oz. Ive put on a 20MOA rail with a Vortex Strike Eagle 5-25x56. I have done a Satterly Ladder test and set on a load for 308 using Sierra TMK using VV150 in Lapua Brass. Without many super custom mods I see consistent .5-.6 inch 5 shot groups - in fact the last 6 groups all were between .5-.6". So I'm pretty happy. Even at 600yds it is averaging about 4-5" som i'm happy.
I get great velocities and accuracy with CFE223. The temperature stability isn't the greatest though. It also pressure spikes quickly. Those who try it should do so in the heat of summer and increase load in small amounts.
Thoughtful and Very well done!! It would be cool to see your long range targets freshly painted. (To see impacts). It was so impressive to see the difference in seating depth. You are THE Man in this space. We appreciate all you bring to the hunting/precision community. Extremely helpful! Im going to play with seating depth on one of my most highly favored, yet least accurate, hunting rifles. Cuz of you. Thank you Jim
For an always tight suppressor, I like the SilencerCo ASR mounts. They’re QD, and have a lock to keep it out. It’s what I’m using on my 7PRC Mtn Reaper.
Jim, LOVE your content!!! I know you are a chassis guy and a Tikka guy, but unless I missed it, I haven't see you review the Tikka Tac chassis. Would love to see a review!
Just add a little more loctite blue. I use a half a drop on my muzzle brake and its good. If one drop isn’t enough for you try 2 drops and snug it up tight. If that doesn’t work try a half drop of loctite red.
No rocksett directly on suppressors that you intend on removing any time soon. Rocksett on muzzle devices that you don't intend on removing. Especially muzzle devices that are suppressor mounts.
I know this is picky, but according to some experts, like Brian Lutz, set your anti-cant device based on the actual vertical movement of your turret by using a tall target test, in the off chance that your turret and your reticle are not directly in parallel
@@kenginter6112 I'm confusing who says what. Hornady guys say it doesn't really matter. If you shoot enough rounds to burn out barrels just testing, might know what's going on. Eric has his methods that work for him. Eric also used to break in barrels, found out it didn't make a difference and stopped.
You really should try a taper mount. I use griffin armament. A lot of people use rearden and love it. Rearden titanium hub compatible adapters for your suppressor and super low profile muzzle brakes that will add almost no weight. If you’re okay with adding an extra 5 ounces to the end of your barrel, try the griffin armament dual lok. The poi shift is nonexistent. Extra weight, sure, but almost nothing and your suppressor will never come loose until you’re ready for it to. I hate direct thread, I’d rather take the extra 3 to 5 ounces and trust the repeatability of my shots with a taper mount
Try Loctite 290-Green, medium strength-wicks into assembled parts. 680 is high strength and works on oily and hard to glue surfaces. Unless it's high temp, loctite starts to get soft at about 140F. Heat it up to remove it. Or get some dry ice and freeze it. Call Loctite tech support. Give those chemical engineers a problem to solve, they like that stuff.
Okay this may be dumb but what about Teflon tape? It’s good up to about 500 F. And with the threading being protected by a bit of steel that might be perfect for hunting but maybe not for putting ten shots down range in a few minutes.
He's like the Al Boreland of the 2A community. Idk why, but it feels like I've known him my whole life, and I want to stand around a grill, watching meat sizzle for hours on end.
Buddy, every single time I mess with my scope before the hunt I done crapped the bed. Knowing that I still do it. I’m just holding my breath for you now 😂
I'm in the market for a new rifle. Looking at Bergara B-14 HMR Carbon in 24" or the wilderness ridge in 20" at sportmans. Can I safely get close to 2900 fps on the 20"? I do reload. Man I can't decide!
Here in Northern Alberta shots at a bear are rarely more than 100 yards. Less than 50 yards is not uncommon. The exception being if you spot a bear in the open farmland, usually a grain field.
Jim, love your channel and your ethics! I have an older Remington 270 that shoots fairly well using both factory and hand loads...would I gain much by buying a 6.5 PRC? I live in Northern Utah, and hunt mule deer with the occasional elk all depending on the draw...I also have a Browning BAR lever in .308 with shoots quite well also...comments?
Soooo, what you are saying (at 7:00) is that if I have a 10 shot group, I should take the 5 that are the farthest apart and measure them, then take the 5 that are closest together and measure them, then average the two groups, and that is the group size of the 10 shots?
HAHA OMG.... name of the video is perfect!!!! i have the mtn reaper in 7prc and was at the range hit a 2in metal disc at 300y it flipped up and got caught in the board and i could see maybe a 10th of it 2nd shot i hit the little sliver i saw to knock it back down and a friend at the range was like "your right that gun doesn't miss"... absolutely perfect name love mine btw
Yep, you can make a 20-inch shoot close to factory loads. Your velocities with Reloader 26 are very close to mine with 142 ABLR. You got in 2930 range, and my development I got 2940 range. H1000 will get you close to 2900, N565 will get you in 2910. Staball HD can be accurate but slow in 2810 range. That is the powders I have mostly worked with.
@SammyMoore-tg5gs It is not high up in my list. All the others go before that. Reason I found an ok MOA to 3/4 load is to practice shooting steel out to 600-800 yards most from 300-500. I am simulating hunting shots in field positions. I have 2 or 3 pounds of the good powders, but we know how good powder can disappear, and it might be a year or two before we see more. Staball hd is every place and cheaper , $10 or so, then the high-end stuff. Load also works for coyotes out to 300,400 yards or more. Now my hunting loads are .3 to .6 MOA with good bullets (127 LRX, 142 ABLR with ELDX as last resort). I use the ELDX the most for steel and coyote it is cheaper by far than the other two. But I will probably use 127 LRX for my Buck Antalope hunt this year. Sorry, so long of post, HaHa
I've done load development before working up a charge weight and seating depth that gets all rounds touching. Go load up 100 rounds of that (being super precise, weight each charge, triple check everything), shoot a week later and my touching group is all of a sudden out to just under an inch again. different day, temperature, humidity etc. 😢frustrating
You're going to find your best seating depth within .006, so you need to use 2 thow increments. You could be on the edge of being inconsistent. But you might get lucky too
.030, .060, .090 is where you started to develope a load? That’s quite the bullet jump! Myself I would have started .020 or .025 and then changed .003 at a time. Where did you lay your hands on some RL-26?
Shine a light through the objective lenses, then with the lights dim, hang a plumb bob near a wall on the eyepiece side of the scope. The crosshairs will project onto the wall and you can level everything up.
