Lost art….my parents were raised in the Depression….my mother sewed all of our clothes as I was growing up. Jackets, pants, shirts all sewn at home!…. I remember her going to the department stores, buying patterns and fabric for our clothing requirements….at the time, wearing bespoke clothes was nothing special…or so we thought! ….when we were selling off the family house, her sewing room (my sisters’ old bedroom) had bolts of fabric. I took them to a tailor and had them made into shirts and pants…years later, I still get compliments on them….
It is difficult to imagine being in this rarefied echelon, being able to afford such things. Through the magic of RU-vid, however, we can at least partake vicariously. Thank you and cheers from Canada.
@@rhodeswood5513 You guys sure charge a bomb there! I got my shirts made in Calcutta (with one of the top bespoke tailoring houses) for about US$ 10 as a making charge. And yes, they do create a 'pattern' from scratch and maintain a record of all customers for future use (so that you can ship your fabric from outstation locations and get them made... unfortunately I lost my code number). I also got a 2 piece suit made there... And even the Italians used to ask me where I got it made - it was 'that' snug!
@@RonBhattacharya well that’s great Rob and I’m glad you’re happy …. So just 10$ and a plane ticket from Harrogate at $2350 is great value I’m on that next plane
My understanding is that in the U.S. about two-thirds of men wear shirts with collars an inch or so too small,leaving the neck bulging over the collar. Proper measurement and then good fit choices are so important. Great video.
(In the US) on every shirt I bought for my (now former) husband, I had to move the collar button over just a smidge so he would not feel strangled. Also had to extend the button hole (by hand). He only appreciated those little touches after the divorce, when they weren’t there.
Exactly. I find these videos strangely intimidating as I know so little about men's tailoring but also uplifting because I learn from them and I'm sure the staff wouls be very approachable and helpful in helping their customers.
A wonderful selection! Nothing like a shirt made exactly to ones specifications. I must also say that you are always exceptionally dressed and elegant.
Such an informative clip. And the gentleman here is right about body fit and collar fit are two different fits. With a 17.5" collar with an athletic body, the shirts given to me that fit my neck are always billowy.
Yup! I have a 40 chest and 31 waist and there are very few shirts which even remotely fit me. Getting to know their styles helps, typically the classic 'City' shirt maker traditional styles are best avoided.
I love how much you care about the details. Visiting your store is definitely on my to-do list this year when I get back in the area. Have you done a video on adequately ironing a shirt? That's a skill I never get right when ironing a shirt before going out.
In Portugal i always bought 'Melka' a Swedish company with the factory in Portugal, unfortunately they closed but i still have more than 60 and a couple i have never worn. In clothing possibly my only passion. I only just found your channel and i am very impressed with your delivery.
Thomas Mason was my undoing. Having some shirts made at No. 10 I was flipping through the books of materials and came upon Thomas Mason. It was lovely to the touch but one small book was lovelier and with less choice and by what I can remember only 8 colours and no patterns or stripes. I ordered the minimum 4 shirts. If I remember (5 years ago) they were in excess of £500.00 each. They are quite superb and surprisingly I'm told the easiest shirts he has ever ironed (my better half that is). I see Thomas Mason was English then Italian. Doesn't matter. Fabulous shirting.
My first view of your videos. I wish there was more information, especially definitions, hand stitches, fabric, etc. What kind of interfacing is used in the collars and cuffs? What measurements are taken? How are patterns chosen?
Noted! This system is based off 21 books of luxury fabric . The measure system is taken from try shirts adding or subtracting cm to the fit and figuration assessment. Hand work is by choice and budget.. hand shoulders , syces, gussets, button holes etc. We may expand on this video .🥂
I'm actually a little confused now. I sew a lot for myself and my daughters and considered my work handmade, because every single item is made individually. But I sew on a sewing machine and just rarely use actual hand stiching. Are my clothes handmade now or are they not? Just really curious.
I think it’s wonderful that you make clothes for yourself and daughters . Most are cut by hand and machine sewing is fine . Hand stitches as I say in the video, don’t make the garments fit better…we like our top line hand finished, to preserve and encourage the skills and because the hand work can look appealing . I would agree it’s confusing. But I think it’s fair to say you are making hand made . My point was more ‘large’ factories saying hand made 🤝🤝
I ❤watching videos. For me the first item of clothing i look at in a well dressed man is the shirt. How well its fitted - the collar, cuffs and how it sits generally round the neck My ideal look was Sean Connery in Turnball & Asser shirts, Anthony Sinclair suits and John Lobb shoes. Terence Young knew all these people directly like T&A And I aways look at the 👞 the man is wearing I noticed when Rishi met King Charles on Wednesday just look at the 👞 Charles was wearing. 👍 👍 😀😀❤️❤️🏴🏴
Best to press from and back of suit with a medium hot iron-steam setting. This won't work for arms so this is what I do. I fill my arm up with paper mache or department store tissue so it emulates what my arms would be like if I was wearing the suit and then I use the steam setting on my iron to get rid of the wrinkles--works like a charm.
To some ….. to many…..the knowing few. If it looks good to the wearer and he can afford it great…. as long as he doesn’t look down on the chap in £55 shirt or the £5 shirt. It’s what’s inside the shirt that counts!
I agree... dress down day in an office environment these days appears to be 'dress as badly as you like day'. I had a meeting recently with someone who was wearing a Megadeath t-shirt.
I can appreciate the craftsmanship but IMO button down shirts shouldn’t cost more than $100 USD. Usually $35-50 on sale. I’d rather get 6-7 of those than one $350 shirt
Yes and my show on Broadway ‘One man and his shirt’ opens soon … it’s very funny and will run for one night only….. why because it’s not a joke…. 🤷🏻♂️
I have three custom-made shirts and until now I was convinced that they were hand-made, but they were not. In Poland we say that whoever buys cheap pays more, but I would rather pay 350 pounds for such a wonderful shirt.
I love hand sewing and embroidery, there really is nothing like it. My eyes however both have cataracts, so I’m waiting for the day when I can get cracking again!
These shirts are exquisite, but I am stupified to realize that they do not include a breast pocket! Would this be $50 extra? Perhaps there is an assumption that a gentleman would always use the inner pockets of his jacket or blazer for small essentials. This assumption stalled in the last century, forced in part by climate change. This retiree requires two breast pockets on his (used) chambray shirts. The price tag of the glorious garment being demonstrated would pay for seven of them
Here's my last shirt experience. Had none for a wedding but spotted one in a charity shop near where we were staying for €4. The lady in the shop ironed it for me and we settled for a grand total of €6. £350....my hole. A fool and his money.....
I can understand your point, but do realise the work that goes into tailoring ! A bespoke suit can take a 100 hours to make, thousands of stitches, quality materials, and people who are experts in their craft !