This one was worth saving Turntable gauge used in this video can be found at; www.hudsonhifi.com/collection... I was not paid or sponsored by Hudson HiFi
This is my turntable!!! So exciting to see my turntable featured on your channel. Thank you for helping me out. I’m a complete newbie and your video has taught me so much! Thank you for your help and for posting this video. Much appreciated.
Did you get it with this tonearm or do you have any idea who mounted it to the 160? This arm is a very cheap flimsy design, had a similar one on my very first TT (Teleton or so) with similar disfunctional arm bearings. If you would like to hear what your TD160 is capable of, I would consider to go for another arm like a Jelco or Rega or even an original Thorens TP90.
what I admire most about Trevor is that he always pursues perfection in every single project. !!! By the way for the Ortofon 2M Red the recomended tracking force is - 1.8 g (18 mN)
Just love the detail , technical informative precise and great video production , so inspiring and gives me faith to restore my 160 motor if needed. So technically clear for the viewer.
You are very patient and technical, a pleasure to watch sir! Exactly how to counter the old Thorens turntables, they are highly repairable if you have the guts and patience. Nice to see how the motor is build, lots of old motors have the ticking problem, as the axle has to much room moving up and down and the upper bearing has worn out.
Very detailed expaination and clear video. You are patient and have a good understanding of the mechanical workings. Great job. I installed the SRM thrust bearing mod but still have an occasional knock even with the screw quite tight on the ball bearing so looks like I have sideways movement in the bearing on my deck also.
always enjoy the vids , the cueing issue just needs the rubber pad on the cueing lift plate to be cleaned , they glaze over as they age and stop gripping the arm tube . isopropyl is all thats needed . rubber renew can be used on the counterweight stub isolation rubber which will stop the slippage of the stub and restore proper isolation and damping . shame the suspension on that 160b has either been removed or failed , they are very nice turntables when they are all ticketyboo .
Try cleaning the tone arm lift surface and the tone arm where they contact with each other using isopropyl alcohol on a q-tip to cure the skew on lowering the arm. I had the same problem with my TD160S and SME Series III S tone arm and that fixed it. Great vid btw!
You know that the use of rivets would help you a great deal...especially where you drilled...all you had to do is to replace with small rivets...great job.
Hi Trevor, i have the Thorens 160 Super which is an upgrade to the one you sorted in this video. You mentioned having a Japanese tonearm on a German turntable. The one fitted to that turntable is made in Japan for Linn Hifi, who are a well respected British hifi manufacturer in Scotland, and the Thorens TD 160 turntables are based on the Linn LP12, which for years was the benchmark for hifi turntables. And probably still is. Their ethos is that it all starts at the turntable, it doesn't matter how good your speakers and amplifier are, if your turntable is not good, neither will your sound be. Rubbish in = rubbish out. I have the Linn basic LVX arm on my TD160 Super, which is a straight version of the one fitted to your customer's turntable. I have to say, it does sound pretty good when properly set up. Thanks for the video, I thoroughly enjoyed it. Extremely interesting.
The tone arm is a Linn Basik - Linn is a British hi-fi company based in Glasgow but the arm is made in Japan. Linn are still going and still making turntables and you may be able to get parts
I have an old technics sl-220 from 1978 i bought in 8th grade and still use. Never bothered to check the gimbal freeplay until i saw this video. Mine has very slight play. Probably like that from the factory. Turns out the spanner screwdriver to move the locknut is an obsolete size or special factory tool. The proper way to adjust this now is to buy the right size flat tip screwdriver and grind a slot. On my technics i will need a 7 mm wide tip and will have to remove about 3 mm from the middle
I got my hands on a td160 with the exactly same issue as this one, but i have a spare motor, but im saving the old one . But since the new one is still good, i want to still keep it that way, so what kind of grease do you recommend using on those bearings?
You should have put a drop of oil in each bearing synthetic sae 20, it's a little bit loose you should have tightened it a tad more you could measure the sides with a feeler gauge, the hangover is from the spindle not pivot point null point won't give you hangover. If you're looking for a really good cheap phono stage have a look at classic audio spartan 5 160$
You can also compress the brass to take up the slack where the shaft wore it oot. Tap it with a very small hammer and if you get it too tight, drill it oot.
Bended motor axe, you can't make this stuff up 😅 For the lift and anti-skating that moves the arm, the half round resting pole could be slippery, or not levelled. 1 gram should not be able to move him. You could bend it a bit to lower the left side, the arm would not go uphill.
Trevor, have you worked on belt drive turntables before? Not meaning to dis your technical knowledge but....There is this thing called the internet where you can find all kinds of information about very specific things like tracking force for Ortofon, knocking noise in Thorens motors etc. So much info is already there. Now maybe you like to start from a position of no knowledge but you could save a lot of time and energy by doing research first. I am glad that I am not paying for you to troubleshoot.
Sorry, not sorry. No love affair for turntables like some. To me they are just a motor and tonearm that sort of reproduces what's cut on a record. I really couldn't care less about what the internet has to say. My position is to start at the ground and work up, educating myself and viewers at the same time in real time. This channel isn't about who's the best tech or how fast I can do a repair, it's about learning how it works and finding solutions to problems that prevents it from working. And, as far as your last statement, you have two choices - You can pay someone to do the work or you can learn to do it yourself
Well I am sorry and don't mean to insult you. I do appreciate your skill and the wish to find out what's inside! I do realize that I have a choice to get someone to fix it or do it myself. I just mentioned this as a matter of fact about troubleshooting technique! Please don't take it personally. No dis on you, just a matter of fact and you have verified my observations. thanks@@TrevorsBench
You surely go the extra mile Trev, especially since the other "shop" gave it up for dead.... Just one addition to the cartridge setup. You should always check the "Azimuth" to ensure the cartridge /stylus is perpendicular to the record. You actually witnessed bad azimuth due to bearing issue, but in most cases with most tables, it is due to cartridge "mount" being slightly twisted over the years of people install, removing headshells..... They sell very inexpensive 'Azimuth Blocks" (search that phrase). They are clear with horizontal lines which you sit in front of the cartridge and view from the front - would send you one, but in Australia;). This will give you indication if the cartridge is "leaning" left or right. On most S Shape bayonet mount arms there are two very small screws underneath where headshell mounts. Loosen these and very slightly angle left or right adjustment. Access to these very small screws requires a fine AND very short screwdriver because they are under the tonearm.... Great vid - thks as always...
Excellent work! But I wonder what a stupid rough mechanic had done this to that turntable 🤔 Shame on such people! They never should get close to such a gear ‼️
