I used the same wheels, same Caswell compounds, same technique on various clubs at various levels of scratchiness and still cannot get them to come out like yours. I know RU-vid’s are usually cut short so I’m wondering how much time do you spend on each club, with each compound/wheel combo? I’ve spent an hour on a club that wasn’t so scratched and still can’t get the sole shiny. I may be helpful to post a long form video or even a short video with more detailed explanation on your process. Or maybe I’m just too impatient. Love your videos btw great work
Once again a beautiful end result! What or how do you recommend getting a more satin finish? I got my used Taylormade M2 polished but I have some Mizuno Tzoids that I want to get more of a satin finish.
OH, and one more question - you said the yellow wheel was denim...I bought the pack from your amazon page, and it has both a yellow wheel, AND a denim wheel (that looks more like blue/black/white...like jeans). Is your yellow wheel denim?
Hello, can you please write a list of everything you need to polish/ clean the clubs from start to finish? And what products you think are the best including brand names? Great video btw what your doing is awesome!
Been watching a lot of your videos as I am planning to polish my irons here soon. Is there any reason that you don’t use your polisher on the face of the irons? Looking to hit those as well but don’t really want to purchase a blaster.
Love your work Brad! Ignorant question for you though...would this same polishing technique apply to blacked out irons as well or would the polishing compound and/or buffing wheels pose the risk of removing the black finishing? Asking for reference to the Titleist T200 blacked out 2020 model. Any feedback is much appreciated!!!
I did a Taylormade M2 that was blacked out and it definitely removes that layer if you use a compound with any grit in it. Green doesn't have any abrasives but it's also not going to remove any scratches. It will just make your black iron look shinier. Do you know how the club is blackened? What process was it?
Got a set of mp33s, light scratches and chatter but nothing too deep and no rust. Would this process be enough to get them back to their former glory or would polishing them with something with grit remove that chrome layer?
Hi Brad, could you follow this process after nickel plating a vintage iron like you other videos? Would the plating layer be thick enough to polish and buff out the minor surface imperfections after plating?
If you use a mild compound like the white on the loose cotton wheel, you can buff minor imperfections after plating. I generally give mine a final buff on the loose cotton before I take pictures of the 'after' to give it a luster, but I avoid the paint fill just to make sure the wax build up is kept out if the new paint.
I have a set of sim max irons and the material that is in the speed pocket or the 5 irons has came. What would you recommend using to fill that slot back in without effecting the swing weight?
Brad, how much (or little) do you buff/polish the hitting area of the face? Looks like you mostly worked on the other areas. Curious if performance is affected either way if you do much to the face
Brad- you are fucking AWESOME, first and foremost! I just finished getting my garage set up, in preparation for messing around with some clubs. Questions for ya: Is the black emery in this video something different ? It almost looks like a rock. You only use black/white/green...is the Brown (from your video two years ago) something you found that you didn't need? I'm JUST starting to play around with this, and using a (smaller) sisal wheel with black, I can't seem to get my first "sanding" to remove nearly the amount of scratches that yours does. Are you like, REAALLLY pushing hard on these? Or are there multiple passes that you didn't show? Just trying to figure out how I can remove the (relatively similar) scratches on the first pass better. Thanks for everythign you do, the videos are amazing!!
There's an old video I made of taylormade m2 that were black. That layer is so thin that if you use something too aggressive, you'll go through to the nickel or whatever is beneath it. But it takes a but to get through that layer (imagine how many swings it would take to wear through it). It's risky if you like them black, but I'm experimenting with options to make black clubs that can withstand the wear.
@@BradMeehan That would make sense. I didn't know of the compound would stain the magic goop or the bristles on a wheel would flick or dig it out. I started playing some Taylormade RBZ Tours this year and the long irons have the goop in slots. I bought them used and thought about using a few wheels to get them gussied up for next season. Was worried about messing that slot up.
@@nickjohnson8246 You could put a bit of tape in there then try to polish around it and do that part by hand. I have a video where I polished the M2 and i just glaze by the power slots.
@@BradMeehan awesome! Just rescued my dads clubs from college (some Power bilt irons) that were in my late grandpas old work shop yesterday, I might have to do that to one of those . They will be my first experiment set haha
when polishing like this do you need to add any sort of protective layer after? i have clubs that look similar in the non shiny and scratches part. thanks
You'd have to see what they're made of. Stainless and other materials don't rust but bare steel would. You'd just have to look up your brand and model. Generally the manufacturer website will tell you what it's made from.
Brad what is the easiest way to spruce up some mp32s? I don't have a bench sander or any tools just want to spend $25 to get rid of some brown spots and paint discoloration.
The brown spots are probably bare nickel and copper. Have you seen my mp32 videos? That mat explain those a bit more. Maybe check out the brush nickel plating kit and you can recover the regular nickel.with bright nickel. Also, the paint fill is super easy. You can use nail polish if you want. I have a paint fill tutorial video too. Hit me up with questions.
@@BradMeehan thanks Brad I have seen the video I just dont have the machines. I detail cars so I have sandpaper and polish and cutting compound and basic stuff. Just trying to see what I can do with the tools at hand. Some paint chipping on irons.
@@adamcorken8690 Honesty all of this can be done by hand with varying grits of sandpaper and polish. Similar to a color correction on a car, you're essentially just knocking down the scratches and polishing out the new scratches you introduce with the paper/compounds. I have a video of some Titleist driver where I gave the face a brushed look with sand paper and it looked really good.
@@BradMeehan Step process? 1. Start with low grit and proceed to high grit sandpaper. 2. Polish? Will I need to paint? The irons are not too bad just looking for a small improvement.
@@BradMeehan Awesome!! I think I watched all your videos like 5x now lol 😆. Thank you for putting out the content. I've always wanted to know how. Have you tried the oil quench and heating the metal to give it that blue purple look yet?
@@localsonlyarcade Thanks for the nice compliment. I'm glad you enjoy them. I want to do an oil quench but I want to practice first. I'm curious if I have to be down to bare steel first. I also want to do a tutorial on a DIY "Trusty Rusty" wedge where the face is rusted out for texture.
