Brilliant video as usual! I've had this wheel for about a year now, and while I think it feels great to drive with, I'm a little let down with the lack of customization options, especially for the screen/dash. Just one thing though, you change the way the clutchpaddles work with the "Phase" encoder near the bottom. When it is set to P1 you get brake/gas, P2 you get clutch/customisable axis/button, P3 you get dual clutch, and P4 you get 2 customisable axis/buttons.
I was able to order the SF1000 when 1st released, it took just over a year to reach my doorstep. I have had zero issues with it and love it, it does what I need. All buttons work with AC ACC F1 19 20 21 22 PC2 PC3 AMS2 & rF2. I am also able to customize the left lower paddle as a clutch. The only minor issue was the stickers rubbing and falling off the 2 main buttons I use over many months of use which is to be expected. The same thing happened with my F1 Collectors Editors Edition wheel the two main buttons stickers eventually rubbed off, I have been happy with all my Thrustmaster wheels over the years. I am happy to have read that the SF1000 will work with the upcoming T818!
22:10 the adventures of Canadians :P many of us use both km and miles, C for critical temps, F for interior temps, hp for power, psi for pressure, unless it's atmospheric (where we'll use pascals), and litres for fuel... and cm for smaller measurements (unless it's really tiny or mechanicy where we'll use inch divisions), feet and inches for medium distances / height etc. before switching to meters for longer ranges. It's always confusing when someone says gallon, or ton, because we have to ask 'which one'.
Does the SF1000 work with the T300 all fine? As in, all buttons working & what not? I've seen people say it does not but I am too poor to afford the SF1000 to test it for myself... Also, how many in-game actions can you bind to the buttons? I've thought the higher-end TM wheelbases were limited to 26 actions, yet it seems like this wheel has over 30?
@@Sithhy I have never heard of the sf1000 not being fully compatible with the t300. Were did you hear that as i am also looking at buying the sf1000 for my t300?
@@NDull. I've been looking at the SF1000 thread on some forum a few months ago & I've a few people mention their SF1000's not being compatible on T300/TX wheelbases, hence my previous question; I guess they or I have been wrong
Was looking forward to the review! There is an easy way to configure the bottom backpaddels as clutches. The functionality is managed by the bottom rotary encoder. It has only 4 positions and in position 4 it sees the back paddles as separate inputs. Took me some trial and error, but is visible when using the trustmaster control panel.
It's a cool wheel but it would have been cooler if it wasn't Ferrari branded. A more generic GT/F1 friendly wheel with the bells and whistles would be cool
Regarding the clutches, if you can bind both to the clutch, you could probably have a de facto dual clutch already. If both can set clutch from 0~100%, the more depressed one will cancel out the other. That way you can hold one at 50%, while pressing the other to the max (100%), which will engage the clutch fully, regardless of the one held halfway. If you then release the fully held paddle, the clutch will spring back to the value held in the other paddle. This at least works like that in other games where multiple input axes are bound to the same output axis.
Hello Barry and congratulations again for your work on the different points and details of this SF 1000 from Thrustmaster. I have been waiting for this test for a long time. Personally, I do not see any other channel doing such detailed work. Thank you for all your work and the information you send us. CONGRATULATIONS 👍🤗😉😀
The first one I got didn't work properly. After only a few days I started having problems with the shifter. Either it double-tapped or didn't register a press at all. It was impossible to drive with it. Got it replaced instantly though without question and the second one have worked perfectly.
I wonder if the amount of buttons are worth it, or should one go for the cheaper F1 wheel by Thrustmaster... I mostly race in VR so the display would be a bit of a wasted potential to have.
I had this for 1 week before the little pillow like things that sit behind the paddle shifters came loose so they wouldn’t work sometimes and they didn’t feel clicky at all anymore
Sadly, they constantly run out of stock and when you see them in Amazon, they retail for scalper-like prices. One of them is even trying to sell one for 1055$ CAD.
Now ordered one! From the documentation I get the impression that the LCD display is not supported for rFactor 2, with the present version of firmware. Or is it??? Excellent review! Thanks.
Beautiful wheel, I wish Fanatec would care to design and produce a wheel like this, they wasted time and money on one ugly BMW wheel that doesn’t even have a screen and it cost $1,600 USD. Kudos Thrustmaster!
but the thing is the BMW wheel is miles ahead in quality and its the ACTUAL steering wheel of the M4 GT3, it just has a different quick release to the real one (obviously), its not a replica of the rim from the car, and i get your point, i also prefer the thrustmaster wheel as im f1 fan too
Informative video as usual.. Now i want one only thing Barry do you have to update the wheel & base straight out of the box as i have no pc? Im using the original TGT also ps5.. cheers barry
Hi, I have a problem with SF1000, after installation and calibration zero results but neither the display nor the LEDs come on, the steering wheel shows no signs of life, can you please help me?
Yes, I have this problem randomly. I tried with TS PC and t300 base with this issue, I so frustrating when happened in the middle of a race. And tm support never gave me some solution...
Hi Péter, do you happen to know the type? What is the display like inside, because unfortunately it is broken and I would like to fix it myself, if it is at a good price somewhere on eBay or something like that
I recently purchased the SF1000. I am using the wheel on a T300RS base, and swapping with a F599XX Alcantera wheel. When the wheels are swapped, after a reboot the device name changes in device manager. SF1000="thrustmaster advanced mode racer" F599XX="thrustmaster T300RS Racing Wheel" This creates a problem as iRacing detects this a a completly new device, and launches the axis mapping wizard every time a change wheels. AMS2 also requires remapping and config changes every time I change wheels. How do you manage multiple wheels on a T300 base to minimize the configuration changes when swapping wheels?
I wish i could get it but 400 dollars for a add on thats not compatible with my 458 spider wheel? Yes i know it can work on an actual f1 car but i mean still 400 dollars for a addon!?
one thing i dont like about this wheel is that how easily the buttons paint fade away with only 1 or 2 months of use, i use gloves because of that reson because my servo is not powerful enough is a t300 but i use gloves so i don't put grease and contaminants in the plastics and they fade away but still they fade away no matter how delicate i try to be and is not just the wheel but the base it self happens the same with the buttons fading away my suggestion to thrustmaster if they are listening is instead of applying the button decal as paint you guy should engraved them given the amount you guys charge for the base it self you guys spending $0.67 cents more on mass production and adding laser engraver to the assembly line would make things 1000000× better and is a win win situation.
@Aussie Dude From Perth can you use it as a double clutch with a bite point. I’m probably going to go with a VRS base anyway, still need a rim. Thanks 👍
