This is also known as the "Yosemite tie off". It can also be done woth the working end on a regular bowline - though in that case it doesn't offer the extra tie-in point. When tying, ensure the original bowline is tightened first. If the extra turn is tightened first the entire complication may collapse into a noose.
Man, I absolutely geek out on your videos. I've been climbing my whole life (from the days of Swamis, PAs, and EBs), and I've learned all kinds of great stuff by watching these. You're doing a great service, not just to people who already climb on real rock, but for those who are making that gym-crag transition and haven't yet realized the immense difference. Thanks for these!
Oo pretty!! Very pretty. Are there any specific things to be wary or with the Beckett finish? Like I know Yosemite has some non-obvious failure conditions if dressed improperly.
@@Jwynne_ to be specific: if you tighten that last turn before the original bowline then the former can be pulled through the latter, this causes the knot to collapse into a form of noose. They may not pull through until heavily loaded, which is the non-obviousness the commenter referred to.
Assuming you're continuing on to another pitch, this would only be appropriate for swapping leads, right? Because it looks like your end is fixed since it's part of the bight used for the anchor.
would a regular bowline on a bite work? Or would it be upside-down and harder to do the beckett finish? Edit I gave it a try and it was upside-down. I had a lot of tail so i made it into a super8/bunny ears, then have two loops instead of one for the anchor.
In this scenario he was the leader and this is done at the top of the pitch to belay a follower up to this point. If the route continued up from this point, the weight of the belayer would prevent the rope from sliding up. Think of the following: When belaying a lead climber on single pitch climbing, most of the time there is no anchor at all at the bottom of the pitch.
@@kirkbrode thanks makes sense just won’t respond help me as I’m looking into it for top rope soloing so there will be no weight from a belayer I will have to look into some kind of sinching tree anchor
@@michael2026 gotcha. For top rope soloing, it would be best to tie the rope to your anchor at the top of the climb. There'll be less rope stretch that way, and there won't be any force multiplication on the anchor (however force multiplication wouldn't be any worse than a regular toprope situation.) You'll have to be able to access the top anyway to set up your high point so you might as well fix your rope there. If it's necessary to anchor the rope to a tree at the bottom of the pitch (i.e. upward pull on the rope), then I'd use a standard basal tie off we use in tree work: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-fHhN-S3B1wA.htmlsi=5mrs0IIsycDyTbKH
