This detailed tutorial works for 2009 - 2016 Tiguan's GTI's, Jettas and other Audi's. Any Vehicle with the 2.0 TSI engine this guide will work G12 Coolant or OEM VW/Audi Coolant Email: weekndgarage@gmail.com
You can always use a flat head screwdriver to get between the rubber hose and the plastic thing that the hose is going over as well to maneuver it off a little more easily
The 2.0T is found optional in many VW models. It is also something you should expect to see a lot if you browse the dealer lots or look online. It wouldn't surprise me if it was used the most by Volkswagen and Audi (and other VW owned brands). This thing I am about to mention about coolant is not a Volkswagen only thing. Be careful what coolant you choose even if you took a chance with a universal coolant. If one coolant is not compatible with the stuff that is already in there you may get a gel like substance as a result that will plug up your cooling system and heater cores. It will be a very harsh and very expensive lesson to you that you should have just used the correct coolant. The correct coolant is not going to be at all expensive compared to the cost of repairing the damage done by using the wrong one!! You will wish you never heard of universal coolant!!
You mentioned about turning on the vehicle, to turn on the heater so you can flush the heater coil. Are you saying to actually turn on the engine, without any coolant?
How many miles does that coolant have on it? I had a Passat with the 2.5 and had coolant that had a similar color. I removed the reservoir and cleaned that with some coffee maker descaling solution while it was off the vehicle and slowly but surely it dissolved all of that rust from inside it and left it like new. Do this off the vehicle to keep that stuff from getting in the system and causing a problem. I also ran deionized water through the vehicle cooling system until I see no more rust. Just drain out what water will come out and add the appropriate amount of coolant concentrate. It is tricky to figure how much to use so I forgot. I can search it fairly easily if I had to do this again. I would be concerned that the crud in the reservoir may be in the heater core and transmission cooler too but are just not quite bad enough to cause a major problem.
when you were flushing the heater core, did you run the car without any coolant in it? if so can running the car without any new coolant possibly damage the main water pump? i believe it is not good to run a water pump dry
When I do my cars (inc a 1.8tsi EA888), I dump the coolant and fill with water from the garden hose (soft water where I live so it's no problem) and use the car normally for a few days and turn the heater on occasionally. Repeat until the water runs clear and then do the coolant/demineralised water
Does this also apply to a CC 2.0? How dangerous is this to do/is it worth doing? I bought a 2009 VW CC 2.0 that was generally well-maintained except for some reason they were putting in the yellow/green universal coolant from O’Reillys instead of the pink/purple VW spec. everything is running fine, but I want to try and get at least 50,000 more miles out of it. All I know is I could never properly bleed my BMW once I started having cooling problems with it and it was a never-ending nightmare for years until I finally sold it to the junkyard so I’d like to avoid opening pandora’s box, but I don’t wanna wear it down early. Mine is clean just the wrong stuff.
If you mean a peacock valve, they tend to be small. Your going to miss large debris in my opinion. Opening the hose helps ensure your pushing everything out.
Mines tries to over heat when accelerating what’s your thoughts on it and my coolant needs to be clean also could that be the issue or a start just got it from a buy here pay here place 2015 vw se tsi
I'm replacing the heater hose lines that connect to the secondary auxiliary pump. The plastic ones I had cracked over time I went with the doorman steel lines. Do I have to drain the whole system out in order to do this?
@Spiderbug23 there should be no coolant filter in the reservoir! Nowadays almost all new coolant reservoirs come with a moisture absorber bag in it. Don’t forget to remove that bag otherwise it can burst and destroy your entire cooling system!
just dont let it overheat since you have no coolant in there. Just turn it on with the heater blasting, and monitor it quickly by running back to the front and once you see its finishing up, engine is getting warmer. Just turn it off. Than plug it all back up and do the last steps. No need to worry about air in the lines as it has a system that does it by itself. Just close the cap once done and monitor it for next few days to make sure your levels are perfect.