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2 mins in and i am buzzing to watch this video. Really appreciate you taking the time to film and teach people just like me who are just getting into joinery but don’t have the access to working in a joiner shop to witness projects like this every day.
Awesome Alex. Hopefully its helped you out. Anything you arent sure on? Its probably a lot to take in when your starting out. i know i struggled to see the effects for your setting out in the finished product for a start etc... Once youve got the basic principle all doors are much the same process you just workthem to suit what mouldings or details are being cut into them.
@@BradshawJoinery thanks for replying. Yeah still getting my head round setting out, allowing for rebates etc. Making my way through the vids helping loads thanks.
Your style and delivery are exceptional and you would do very well indeed as a college tutor teaching this stuff. It's not just the accuracy of your work, it is the instruction of how to deliver that accuracy that makes this a riveting watch. Very good indeed.
@@BradshawJoinery I really like your channel, aspiring woodworker, I would like to say just one critique. Less words, more action. Now, one compliment, Again, I think that you do a great job at delving into how to actually do the job and there is a wealth of information in your videos. I can't believe that you don't have a larger following. In time I hope. Thanks for responding. I do a lot of design/engineering but my wife has an upholstery business on maui and I help with the woodwork. Thanks and keep up the awesome videos.
@@BradshawJoinery Yes absolutly its easy to follow, as I have said before. It is the level of detail and accuracy that i get from your video's. Thise skills can be transfered to other jobs and tasks i do.
@@BradshawJoinery they are defo the nicest combi squares on the market I’d grab a marples trial 1 if you want a fixed or shinwa carpenters square, workshop heaven have a good stock…
Yes. Warping is a bit of a lottery. Try to leave materials flat and supported all times and keep all machining as accurate as possible. Acclimatised timber also helps but at the end of the day, sometimes there isnt anythign you can do!
Brilliant, really enjoyed that. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video when you’re bonkers busy and probably can’t be stuffed! How do you determine the shoulders at your tenon machine? I’ve got a stop block on mine at 32 mm ( always making sashes with stub tenon on 56 mm stiles) my ‘formula’ is desired width minus 100 mm ( 50 mm left on each stile after moulding) plus 64 mm ( two tenon). It works, but always looking for better methods 😂👍🏻
Haha, its tricky, im trying to keep the videos coming.. it does take a little extra effort which isnt so bad most of the time, but its the times where you really have to motivate thats difficult. Shoulders are at set out stage. if its a through tenon just mark the full timber thickness on from the end, then mark back moulding and rebate shoulders and setup from there.
I've had a few problems with poplar wood as it likes to twist and warp upon final cut. Like you leave the shop for 5 minutes to talk with mother nature and return finding the wood is off cut. Poplar is a hardwood by definition and I buy it from a mill just north of here but some luck is required to find it stable. If you invest 200 dollars in machining the wood and it goes bad you just as well should buy white oak or red oak and be done with it.
The quality of the timber and the entire drying process is largely to blame here. Properly kilned timber that I then acclimate before using (using controlled humidity for min 6 weeks) I don't tend to see too many problems after machining. Some tension in the timber off the saws but no timber is free of that. The biggest difference has been acclimatising the wood before using myself. Kiln dried from a supplier here isn't ready for internal use in a heated house. It's comes from a storage barn... Outside temps
@@BradshawJoinery Hi Ollie, woodworkersworkshop.co.uk/collections/woodpeckers. These are the main guys in the UK that import most Woodpeckers stuff. Cant beat a bit of tool bling! 🍻
Take a look at the Bridge City squares available from Axminster tools. I’m hoping that one will show up for me this Christmas. They have stainless blades so should last a long time. And they’re gorgeous too!
Just wondering who do you recommend for accoya? I'm in the devon and can't find timber merchant who supplies it. Great vids, inspirational and quality work. Thank you for sharing.
Do you make door to exact size of frame/opening largest points, and then trim, or do you make it with tolerances either side ready to fit straight away with out having to plane it for example so it fits with reveals.
Yeah generally tight size of opening then trim to suit on the panel saw. When you miss with the hammer banging the wedges in it helps to get over the damage! aha
Do you ever cut a sample piece of of rail say if scribing mouldings too, then use a cutting gauge to Mark your panel groove on sample piece and square those across then you can get a marking knife and transfer all the set backs on sample piece without measuring back with a ruler, and you’d have the moulding profile on the sample piece so you could mark with a pencil where it ends, square across so when you run it through the moulder you no where to chop it flat on the style, then I would mark out the tenons and haunch using a drawn centre line, with dividers on it, therefore you could use those points in the wood on the knife lines across and transfer then to the tenons to be divided, so in Theory you would have a sample pieces width of styles about 3 inches thick end grain both sides facing up and down , with the mouldings profile on either side with the depth of groove marked on it, this is always your reference to know how deep the groove goes too, transfer this onto style and continue the knife lines onto the style and pencil lines for scribing mouldings etc, is this ever been done as I thought of it as a better way or is it a complete load of bollocks? Does it even make sense, love to know what you think or where potential errors could be made. Tar. Jimbob
Jimbob You might have to take a video and send it to me as im pretty lost trying to work through that in my head, ive even left it and come back to it to tray and interpret haha. You could have a sample piece scribed over the moulding on both sides and mark from that your moulding cutback instead of measuring. Id avoid pencil lines on the moulding as itll mean removing them later if clear finish.... pain...., Im not familiar with a centre line and dividers technique so couldnt comment
Yes just be careful it doesnt poke in a hollow of the mortice chisel. The worst thing is cutting haunches slightly too long when it comes to glueing up your joints dont seat. the Combi square gives a wider average. (assume your talking about that part)?
Exactly the same construction as a few architectural drawings from the early 20s, I plan to make a few myself as I learn Victorian joinery techniques. How do you work out the size of wedges? I've also seen them referred to as "Joining Pegs"
Thats interesting william, thanks! ive done a few door making videos, so you might benefit from watching some of the others. wedge shape over about 70mm would be 2mm to 12mm roughly. I tend to judge by eye rather than measurments. Basically needs strength to drive in but be as slender as possible haha. I tend to keep a slightly blunt end as when disecting the joint the blunt point compresses the tenon nicely within the door creating a good lock. it the point hits first and then the outside tightens up just as the wedge hammers home its about perfect imo.
At 16:40, what is the purpose of offsetting the ends of the boards when you clamp them together? I did figure out the purpose of the setback when marking the tenons (finally). Excellent video. I wish I had discovered your channel years ago.
It would have been probably to keep the door near the centr of each stile. Looks as though I hadn't cut them the same length before setting out, that is all. 👍
@@BradshawJoinery hmmm. The offset appeared to be the same on each end - about an inch and a half. In the end, you cut them to length, so it apparently didn't matter.
Is it deliberate that the tops and bottoms of old doors are not normally painted, as in a it something to do with moisture perhaps. Or is it just that people haven’t bothered?
Just not bothered. Quite often the top of architraves aren't painted either! Everything traditionally was fitted with no paint on. Today alot seems to be prr finished as much as possible!
Hi Dave ive used PU Rapid from sovereign chemicals for years, i like it as its a bit slower and softer than others until its fully gone off, but i have started using the woodweld stuff recently and getting on well with that. It sets harder quicker than the sovereign, so not sure i would attempt door glue up with it yet.
Oli, if I don’t have your Mortice and Tenon Machines, do you feel I could get a good result using the Domino xL Machine ? Not built a door before but I am itching to try!
Yes it can be done many many ways, a moulding with counterpart scribe on the rails and dominod together would work no problem! Id do the dominoing before the machining into square stock.
Exterior panels you want either tricoya, or duraply exterior. I would opt for the latter, Its acetylated wood plywood. really nice and light too with a great quality surface. Much cheaper than tricoya and has similar credentials.
I like to have a decent wedge depth up to about 70mm. I wouldn't haunch over half way either.. it's a case of adding glue surface area but not taking too much strength out the stile. Wide stiles I normall go about 40mm haunch for serious strength
You can do but it is only seen as a gap with the panel removed or on the ends of the stiles. If you stopped the groove in the joint on the stiles you wouldn't see the gap anywhere. 👍
Haha good work! It makes more sense when you see it in action yourself working the door. You setback to allow for machining the tenon away (wether it be a rebate or groove that cuts the tenon.
Gday Ollie Just a quick one if I can ask 🙏 I almost pulled the trigger on an AD 741 ( spiral / power raise) would have been a dream! He tells me I can’t have the table extension on in feed!!! And to use a roller stand 😂. Over 20 k AUD we’re talking here btw ! …. A roller stand! Like I’ve got now for the powermatic! I can see you have in feed and out feed extension on 531! Giving you 2500 overall? Perfect for door stiles etc? Anything up to around 2400 without drama? 300 is about as wide as i’d go anyway! ( mainly 150 or 200’s max) Maybe this is the go ? Would you recommend? And what motor/ cutter head would you go for? Thanks mate I’ll buy you a coffee ☕️
Hi buddy, does the 741 have the big cast fence rail at the front hence not fitting a front fence? I remember I was confused when I bought my 531 as I asked if I could have an indeed fence on the planer and was told no by the rep. Anyway... Slight miscommunication the rep called the thicknesser a planer and the planer a surfacer.. turns out you can have indeed and out feed on the surfacer. But like I say the big round fence rail might not allow this. I don't often have an indeed fence tbh, it planes pretty flat without it and is only really for balancing longer bits on. Id still have a roller stand set slightly low for real long stuff and the 731 has longer beds than the 531 I think. I wouldn't have a 741 in my shop, it wouldn't fit. I do miss the electric rise and fall you can spec on a 7 series however. Go for the biggest motor and the spiral cutter. You won't regret it. I've never heard anyone look back since getting a helical or spiral block In an ideal world if run the 531 for flattening alongside a wide spiral cutter thicknesser. That would give me more flexibility and speed. It does do a really nice job of planing timber straight. I plane 2.4m Stiles without extensions on mine no bother. Can give me a call if your still unsure
You could do it pretty cheaply over here, I'd keep my 531, or even buy a hammer spiral planer, the. Look for a 610mm thicknesser. Can be found decent for under £5k then have a spiral cutter made from somewhere like sheartak.
@@BradshawJoinery thank you! I think 531 is the way to go! I can get a stand alone jointer/thicknesser cheap from my old retired mate, superb kit! But I’m in a 10m x10m shop like you! Big motor, spiral ( although powermatic pj882hh has that and it’s not great! Leaves little ‘squares’ maybe because it’s a toy but, single phase, or cutters need a change?) Big motor 👍🏻 spiral … hmm I need to see results in person, my ‘sharp’ straight blades in casadei Fs41 give a superb finish….. for 5 minutes until you get chips 😂 I’m kid of thinking tersa ? Come in carbide too.. fairly cheap. Extensions x2 , comfort guard and digital reader ✅ Recon it will be half the price roughly, see what he says I recon around 12K Bed time , thanks man 👍🏻
Order it without the digital readout (if it's the round one that fits in the handwheel) then buy it separately, you'll get both ruler and readout on the machine then👍
Amazing content in all your videos thank you for talking the time to make and upload content. Try banggood.com they have great wood working tools at very good prices.
