If you're after an inexpensive timecode generator, rather than spending heaps on something like a Tentacle Sync, you probably already have one and don't realise. Watch this video and find out. LTC Timecode Generator: play.google.co...
The problem with this method of jam syncing is hat both devices will drift over time which will make syncing in post very difficult. Both of these devices' internal timecode generators are not precise enough to maintain sync so unfortunately, this is not really a reliable method.
Thanks for sharing. Great video. I’m a little confused though. When I pause the RU-vid video it seems as though the frames are not aligned between the cam and F6. So you see this too? I wonder what would cause this.
Solid work arounds. You might be interested in the new Deity TC-1. I haven't gotten it yet myself, but it seems promising and at a reasonable price IMO. I also use the BMPCC 4K and the Zoom F6, and is that a Rode Wireless Go II? I've got that kit as well haha. How do you hook it up to your F6? Anyway I'm hoping the Deity TC-1 will be a solid product that will save time in post. I like your hacks, but my camera's rarely close enough to my recorder, and I'm also somewhat routinely turning off the Pocket 4K.
I actually tried this a few months ago and found there is about a half a frame offset between the Pocket 4K and Zoom. I'm still syncing on the timeline with audio waveform due to this. Haven't tried the app, maybe that is more accurate?
I did a series of tests with the app and timecode seemed to be holding on fairly well. I'm not sure how it would do with an extremely long shoots, but I usually have scratch audio as well. On a long day I'd probably use the app and sync on a more regular basis to be safe.
@@AustralianImage how do you synchronize the camera with the recorder after you play the time code audio? Can you give an example of how you do it in the program?
Before the cable was plugged in, pausing the video showed it was better synced before the cable was inserted. Then when the phone was used it improved the sync again. I read somewhere that the F6 puts timecode off on the wrong channel *tip vs. ring and people are having to flip their cables. Will have to find that info again.
The Blackmagic cameras use one of the rings only for time code as far as I'm aware. I think it might be the left side of the audio channel. This, I believe, is where some issues can arise when connecting different devices.
Hi. If my camera doesn’t take time code but I send a bit of the time code from my phone to and audio Chanel via the mic in for a few secs will that do it.
Great video. What cable do you use? Is that a normal mini jack? I have the 6K. Do I plug in the cable to the mini jack mic in? I use the Zoom F8n but I don't know where the timecode connection is. Any help appreciated.
but wondered if the turning on and off issue will be redundant if you change the battery as that has no power to preserve the setting? Anyway iv downloaded the TC app and will experiment. thank you.
RU-vid hasn't been sending me comment notifications, so sorry about not responding earlier. Unfortunately I don't know anything about the Sony or Zaxcom, so can't advise. The best thing to do is just give it a shot and see what happens.
It is synced. I've been using this method for a while and never had a sync issue. The camera shows the timecode at the top in red, the F6 shows the timecode at the bottom in white. There's a bout a 2/100 sec difference, which has no effect on audio syncing. The camera to F6 sync is not as accurate.
Timecode is a clock. All cinema cameras and some others, as well as many recording devices have an internal clock that can be reset so that all the devices are set to the exact same time. You use timecode in your video editor to then match the exact start time of the video and the audio. This is extremely useful if you record audio externally and not internally in-camera. It's an alternative and usually more precise way of matching video and external audio than trying to match waveforms based on a distinct sound like a clapper board. Both matching processes can be automated in most editors.
you can send just a few second of timecode to any audio recorder and then read timecode from audio file in software and save it to metadata. This way is convenient for long audio recording when you do not stop recording and all is saved in one file.
I think the difference is that with this simple method, you can send timecode to any number of cameras and audio recorders and have them all synced, even if they aren't actually recording. It works in pretty much the same way that say a tentacle sync does, except you don't have a timecode device connected all the time.
@@AustralianImage Right, but there is not so much consumer cameras with timecode support. I have GH5, S1 and S1H. Only S1H can send or receive timecode. There is even less audio recorders with timecode. I wish smaller hand audio recorders had timecode..
@@JanSur I used to fall back on the tried and true method of making a sharp noise like a hand clap. What works quite well, even at a distance, is a simple dog clicker. It makes a very sharp and loud noise, which isn't too difficult to sync in post using the audio wave (three clicks). Timecode is always easier.
@@AustralianImage I am weddings filmaker and I always bring about 9 hours of audio from DJs mix . It was always difficult to find parts I needed in such a long audio track and auto sync based on waveform did not work. I am using Tascam DR 40 audio recorder. So I found this solution, just send a few second of timecode sound from S1H to recorder before connecting to mix.
@@JanSur Yes, in those circumstances, waveform syncing isn't the best. You should give the app a test and you might be surprised at how well it works. I can send timecode from the BMPC4K to the F6, but I found the app to be a lot easier to manage. Say you have one camera on a tripod and a second one that moves about, then the app becomes a much better option.
