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As long as they don't touch metal ther are fine and the metal is painted anyway so it won't short u could always pull the leads towards the terminals.even sown they will slide
Thanks for pointing 👍 out the tinsel leads... you maybe able to use needle nose and bend the base connection towards the center of the sub. Give a hair more tinsel free play ▶️ 🤷 possibly
You can easily do so . Use some needle-nose pliers with some cloth in the jaws to avoid marking **. I own the 12" version and observed the same issue with lead tension ....tweaked it - zero concern now. Note that you can also unscrew the leads and rotate each one 180 degrees but some folks may not be comfortable to go that far. I also bent the little metal frame tab for the leads up a bit to give more slack ... all good now.
I'm actually going to redo the 12" and give it another shot at the dyno, after seeing what the 10 did, I'm interested in seeing what more the 12 can offer.
I put mine in a 2 cubic foot enclosure and it came to life in my van. I would probably say anywhere between a 1.25 and 2 CF box. You just gave me another idea for a video. I'm going to put it in a smaller box and see how it sounds and in the same video a larger box, I'll put it on the Dyno so you'll see what kind of power we're doing at the same time in each and let you know what I think it sounds like. TY for the question and comment.
