How I prepare and paint a roof for painting in Acrylic Part 2 Please remember to "Subscribe" and hit that bell if you want to be the first to see more videos Music: www.bensound.com
This is a joke I would smash you in painting roof. Can see all your over laps for sure. Shade every where. Never stop and paint dry and paint where you left off 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️. Early morning and late afternoon. End to end when you spray. You is a joke. I bet everything I mentioned is how your roof came out. Mines come out flawless.. I laugh at guys like you when seeing guys paint like that🤦♂️
Bozo you legend, you must be really good to be able to paint wet on wet on a hot roof,you must have access to dryless paint, I haven't seen it before nor could I afford it. What you are looking at is first coat in this video, it doesn't matter how thats applied, I looked on your channel but I couldn't see any of your master work you are talking about. I think you should get off the crackpipe and venture out of your mums basement to the real world.
Wet on wet what are you taking about. I spray first coat and let dry for over night then put second coat next day. I am a legend. You is a joke. O and I own my own house on 5 acres 🤣. I can tell you do shitty work. You is a joke. It does matter the first coat. After 4 months I would be able to see all you first coat over laps.
@@bozocampbell4979 Australia is hot in summer like 40° ,if you spray on overcast day on wrought iron you will get blisters, then peeling. Second coat i use a larger 517 tip not shown on this video. Remember im not an amateur, ive 40 years experience behind me.
@@ThePa1nterhowto I did over 100 roofs in 22 years not one ever ever did blister or bubble. So here's the difference between bubbles and blisters. Bubbles is caused by not pressure washing the roof good so that causes the paint not to bond to the roof. Blisters is caused by spraying second coat on a hot day or not letting first coat cure. Moisture get trapped in between first and second coat causes blisters. You know I know wat I talking about. You just learned something today from me.
Thats kind of what i was thinking. I had a wattyl rep say to me once he saw a bloke coat an orange rusted iron roof full of rust with penetrol and oil based undercoat and finish as you did and years later the rust hadnt come through. Just usually its a small bit and you'll rust convert, prime and paint. This is quite a large area. Cheers
You can buy the Penetrol in 4 litre containers and you can brush it on straight if you wish ,this method was the only thing we used in a coastal town to eliminate the rust,tried all the converters,simple is best and I use a quick dry oil based undercoat to show where I have been.Best to brush / roll the first coat into the rust,cant guarantee it if you spray it.
Sherwin Williams here in the US makes a Product called Bond Plex Pro and its by far my favorite for roofs. Latex that is fast drying and covers great. I've only use oil paint on a roof 1 time and i rolled it on with a 1" nap roller and it took me FOREVER!!! lol.. Good work!! I need me a drone!
In the old days we used oil based paint and silver frosts all the time,it was amessyjob that had to be done with no wind or moisture ,acrylic nowadays is to simple
I have a question I have the same sprayer (magnum) can I run aluminum Kool seal thru it and if so how would I clean it out after I'm done. All iv ever used in it is house paint help please
I usually would have put a rust converter on those rusty bits first but you recon the just the penetrol and oil u/c hold it back for a long time eh? Might try that next time.
If you read the specs on penetrol you will see it stops air and moisture from getting into the rust and spots it dead in its tracks.In fact we found the more rust on the iron the better it works,sounds to simple ? Remember simple is best,we used it on all our boat steel when I lived in Mackay.
I just started painting roofs. Someone told me to spray the full length of the panels. Idk if that makes any difference and i sprayed a primer but does it have to be laid on thicker ???
Lots of great questions. The tip size here is something you wont believe. It is in fact a low pressure 213 worn out,very little overspray and plenty of paint. The color is colorbond paperbark,one of my favourites. I always use gloss acrylic as it leaves a nice shine for many years,resists dirts and moulds (not pourous) and after ir rains,looks magnificent. Another benifet of the gloss the shine will hide any flashing. I also use it on walls and eves on my private jobs that pay well or i want a premium job.
my question is I’m wanting to paint my galvanized roof what kind of primer do I need to spray my roof with to make it stick better do I I have to really clean some of the rust off first or is there another way
High pressure clean your roof with a powerful cleaner first. For the rusty roof you can brush those areas with a product called Penetrol, let it dry. You can spray two coats of premium water based acrylic straight over. If your roof is very very rusty it's best to use darker color or an oil based roof paint.
got a question.im planning on useing elastomastic silicone based sealer on a mobile home roof.it has been painted with it before but surely didnt last 7 yrs. as it said.it wasnt silicone based but it was stripped to bare metal and washed several times.alot of sites claim you need primer for galvanized where others say you dont.sherwin williams primer is 90 bucks a gal.that covers arond 200 sq.ft. and so id need to cover roughly 1000 sq. ft. any other primers you could suggest that would work ok or what would your plan be.KILZ 2 says you can use on galvanized but id like a pros oponion.Thank you
The elastomastic sealant you are talking bout, is it a black tar, if it is , it is a similar tape I use to seal my holes in the roof, mine has a silver tape on top for durability. Galvanised roofing does not need a primer,any good quality premium acrylic is ok. They just want to sell you something you don't need. I would apply the first coat with brush and roller and the other two coats with spraygun
@@ThePa1nterhowto ok,i thought and hoped you would say that.No it is white elastomeric sealant with silicone in it.it is an acrylic sealant.Black Jack elastomeric sealent with silicone.ill get it good and clean and put it down.thank you very much.keep up the good videos.im learning alot.
I have a old factory roof will Haymes exterior paint new life be ok too use? External weather shield paint it’s a trim deck roof and been pressure washed
so those patches your mate was preping that was little rusty.was it a acrylic primer or rust inhibitor or what.this stuff im useing isnt black tar based and originally my mobile home made in 1085 had been painted with the silver aluminium with a tar base in it.a friend said i needed to get all that off and i have wire wheel brushed it alot.i still have a few places with some flaking of that silver im gonna get off,but man ive spent days on tryin to prep that roof.gonna wash it again with a good cleaner and brush edges and probably go with 2 coats.i could maybe use a sprayer but this is pretty thick.what could you cut it with to be able to spray it on.it is acrylic based but says to rool but anything can be sprayed if you use right stuff to cut it with.do you use that oil that is in this video at 10 % to cut this with if spraying? thank you
It was an oil based undercoat with a type of rust inhibitor (Penetrol )included . I would not even contemplate spraying your roof, cut the edges with brush (You can test to make sure it will stick properly) roll two coats of the pure paint on it, if you thin it down for first coat ,only use what the paint recommends on the label (10% usually). Apply the next coat straight, remember you only need to do it once if you do it properly. Paint in the morning after the sun comes up and that way it gets to dry during the day. Next coat next day.
G’day mate, need some advice. Colorbond roof. Replaced rusty roof screws, no sheet rust. Slight chalking. Pressure cleaned really well. Borrowed painter mates airless sprayer, primer applied, no issue, 1st coat, no issue, 2nd coat.. looks patchy from the ground. Get up patchy spots are rough to touch not smooth as you’d expect with a spray job. Looking back possibly a bit windy, to much pressure, sprayer getting to far away from surface. Painted shed walls at the same time. Perfect. Over spay would fallen to the ground though not on the surface like the roof. Question is, should I lightly sand before going again before having another crack? Was thinking of hot glueing some light grit sand paper to the corro profile roller I have, stop it from rolling to speed up the sanding job a bit. Big roof to cover. Just bought more paint, only want to do it once more.
Yes, sand the rough patches. They are the things causing the flat spots. Make sure your next coat is wet on wet, I know it's hard, but use the colorbond profile to help
Good news for you, now they have low-pressure tips available so you don't need a monster spray gun. I don't know what country you are in but Bunnings stores in Australia sell airless spray guns for a few hundred dollars that will handle the job Ozito sells a great little spray gun as well. You could buy a second hand airless and use it for your purpose and resell after you finished to get better quality for a low cost.
As long as it's clean and water blasted and more importantly, it has no powder or chalking. If it has powder/chalk it needs to be washed off by hand with a rag, the water blaster will not do it.
Hi @ThePa1nter, I am restoring (painting) a colourbond roof. It has been paint restored before but the restoration has become chalky and faded. There are some rusty spot I will need to use Penetrol like you suggested. Just wondering if there is anything special about preparing the chalky paint or does it just need a really good pressure wash? I have a 2100psi washer will that be enough to clean it and do you use anything in the pressure washer water? Also you mention Weathershield Acrylic, is that just the Weathershield MaxiFlex stuff? Thanks in advance :)
Oh another thing. I have a Wagner pro 350 but not sure which nozzles to use with it. I just got the 2 standard ones that came with it but can purchase more if needed. Cheers!
Pressure cleaning will not clean off the chalky by itself, It needs to be physically hand washed with rag or mop. Paint will not stick to the chalk,if you wipe your hand and powder comes off, do not continue until clean. There is a product called EB emulsabond made by flood that does help but id never trust it personally, nothing beats handwashing. Treat the rust then two coats of dulux weathershield gloss acrylic, if the rust is realy bad, consider using a darker color on the roof.
Hey mate a question for you; I've got a Wagner control pro 350, will that in your opinion be enough to use on Nutech Nuflex paint? Because I know it's quite thick and they recommend a 523-525 for the primer and a 519-521 for the Nuflex Thanks
@@ThePa1nterhowto Thanks for the reply Would it just be a matter of doing a few test sprays and adjusting the pressure and seeing how the spray pattern comes out?
@@Dokrau i believe the gun you have low pressure so yes,tip sizes will dictate as well as the thickness of the material sprayed. You could use a hot weather thinner if you needed or apply an extra coat. I reckon you'll be fine.
Hi Gregory. Can I use penetrol to clean the rust from fly screen metal door as well and then brush it with undercoat oil based And then the paint(or you mix the penetrol with undercoat oil based) because you mentioned to add 10%.
If the rust is bad i would use penetrol ( you can also buy it in a spraypack aerosol can) ,let dry overnight and then add oil undercoat,that will solve most rust problems
If I have flaky rust should i use a steel brush grinder before the 10 % penetrol in the paint > grind, pressure clean then Penetrol and the undercoat... what do i use for top coat after 2 coats undercoat you used ? thanks mate.
Yes, take off as much of the rust as you can,if itsnot possible, you can brush Pure penetrol on, what it does is stops the oxygen reaching it, so no more rust.You can use any top coats you want, oil based or water based.
Don't you need a rust treat or neutralise the rust so it doesn't flake off? Or does the primer completely seal it in and stop it from continuingly to rust?
Hey man I'm just looking at getting a sprayer for the odd roofing jobs Usually stick to interior and exterior paint (brush & roller )and don't do roof's but my Question is would the Wagner 350 models be any good for the odd shed / house Not wanting Graco model or anything crazy lol Cheers
You can do either but I add the Penetrol to the oil based paint so I can see when I apply it and it will dry quicker than straight. In very rusty circumstances I would apply straight and then oil paint next day. You can buy it in an aerosol can for hard to reach areas as well
Hey mate. What paint would you recommend for a zincalume trimdek roof with some brand new and some old sheets that we want to colour in ironstone to match the house roof. Also I'm looking at buying a ortiz gun from Bunnings do you know if it would come with the correct size tip i need or do i need tp purchase another. I was also told i would be able to paint trimdek roof with long haired roller. If the wind doesn't settle down as im pushed for time l was considering this option. Is it possible to roll it in your opinion. Cheers
I personally just use Solver duraguard or Dulux weathershield, if you have water catchment, keep the downpipes disconnected for a good rain or if you cant do that you might need to buy the roof paint from either company.. I would just give the new sheets a detergent water wash with a mop (Must be physically scrubbed to remove oils ) then give the whole roof a good high-pressure water clean , the spray gun should come with a 515 tip which should do everything you want. If you need to get close to sensitive areas you can always tape and paper up or use a brush. I would not roll the roof, forget that idea. Do not spray in the afternoon where dew will be an issue as the cold will blemish your finish. and cause blisters. (Nice sunny day is best)
Is the base oil based and the top acrylic? Or have I misheard. We need to do our old roof and and very interested how you did this, will read through all the comments 😊
The problem is it will need to be degreased before painting. So a good scrub with detergent and make sure its grease free then 2 coats of the water based top coats.No primer required
After the first coat,the reason is you can see all the holes easier and the second coat of paint hides the patches. If its cold you need to heat the roof up for the tape to stick,this video its a hot day,you can use a hair-dryer, works ok.
Omg🤦♂️ dude you put the roof tape over the holes before you put first coat of paint. So by the time you paint second coat you don't see the roof tape🤣.. go check out my Facebook page bozo Campbell. You will see that I take pictures straight up and down. So you can see if there is shades. When people take side angle pictures it's because there trying to hide there flaws
Wow iv always did every coat from gutter to ridge no matter the distance🤷♂️ don’t see why you wouldn’t do that on a simple roof like that such a easy job.
Is this your video on your channel, ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FC5WT1BdzYA.html I don't see where you made even one full length pass from gutter to ridge, let alone the amateur attempt of painting the gutter on a windy day with cardboard getting paint on the driveway ,window and walls. Maybe you shouldn't throw rock when you live in a glass house. By the way my roof was flat and what you saw was first coat,what I did on the final coat you couldn't know?
I have a question for you, what kind of paint do you use to paint the roof metal? And how many squads can you paint with a 5 gallon bucket? when painting with the roller, give 5 squares maybe more or maybe a little less
As long as the metal is rust free and prepared properly you can paint it with any exterior high-quality acrylic. If you use a roller you will use more paint compared to airless spray, We only have 15-litre paint here in Australia and I would have used approx 3x 15 litre on this roof in the video, two coats.
Its a hot day there and impossible to get it in one swipe so that's why I'm doing that for first coat, second coat I use a much larger 517 spraytip, but still won't get it in one spray, by using gloss acrylic I don't get flashes as the high shine hides them
@@ThePa1nterhowto thanks. I have an ozito sprayer and was spraying a tin roof and the sprayer seemed to loose pressure after a couple of meters and i would get tails. Im spraying semi gloss so i was afraid of getting flashing if i did it in smaller sections. Is this the difference between a cheap sprayer and an expensive one??
@@bennylaz1 Your tails would be from the low pressure ,i actually using a very worn low pressure tip that doesn't get tails,i can put a good coat on this way, as I said for the top coat, higher pressure, larger tip, if your getting tails it means your pressure is to low
@@bennylaz1 just buy an undercoat spray can from the local hardware store is your best bet,remember the silicon is flexible so if theres a lot of it it could crack
are you better to use more.. maybe 60% penetrol over the rusted areas.. since it is a rust converter.. or sticking to just 10% .. and what about if the pressure cleaning exposes the zinc base EI: the colorbond coating gets blasted off in spots...
@@tisme13 at 50% Penetrol it would affect the bonding and drying of the paint, 20% would be my most, you could always put two coats on if your realy worried 24 hrs later.
@@ThePa1nterhowto hi, Im going to redo my tiled roof and im on the sunshine coast, can you recommend any suppiers in the area that can supply paint and sealer ??, and what type of spray unit would i be best to hire ??, i see that Kennards have an airless sprayer, thanks a lot
@@rbleegrip If I was in your situation I would hire a painter on a day rate who has an airless,he will probably be able to get the paint cheaper as well. You supervise and work with him, do your research on the paints available in your area. I don't normally do the roofs, just my own.
As long as it sprays around 2 litre paint minute ,probably wagner 3.23 ,some membranes might require a bigger gun so best to check with your paint supplier.
yea I was going to say the same thing, you waste more product doing all that overlapping. no one will see it since is the roof but you are working harder and wasting material which will hurt your profit
ThePa1nter years back. I was heavily involved with the Painting and decorating association. At one of the trade shows I was able to meet Mr Flood and he explained that the invention of Penetrol was a mistake during WW2. There was a long holiday weekend and raw material was allocated to manufacturing facilities. They mistakenly left linseed oil boiling over the weekend. He was upfront with the military and they tested the oil to see if it could be used. It’s adhesion and rust neutrality properties were so good that the navy ordered a barrel for each ship for spot rust remediation at sea.
@@dougclick2850 I lived in the bayside area at Mackay and Penetrol was the magic, even better when it came out in a spraycan for metal carports,realy soaks in,was the only thing that worked
Colorbond is just a painted roof from the factory, nearly every roof can be painted by high pressure clean and two coats of roof paint. If its rusty you will need to treat that first.
@@ThePa1nterhowto Thanks for Ur reply,Actually, what happened,when I went to hire a Sprayer,The guy asks me U need gun for water base or oil base paint.There ,I got confused b'coz I don't know abt. my roof.Its 20 years old tin roof & faded color. I hope U understand..
Great video mate! I’m about to paint my tin roof.....and the whole house actually. Any advice on a decent spray gun would be really handy. You reckon the Bunnings Ozito is alright I see you mention in another comment? Mate that cheap Ozito junk seems hard to kill! Any other brands you reckon may be any good? I don’t mind spending a bit more for an ease of use tool to keep and do a few more houses down the track.....but then again I’m not against busting out an Ozito to do the job lol
I use the Wagner PS 3.21 for everything, you can pick up one of them up second hand for around $1000 , they are around $3000 new. There is a smaller one Wagner PS 3.2 for around $2000, if you can get a good second hand you have a chance to get most of your money back when you are finished with it. If you go cheap airless you run the risk of it not working after storage or lack of use. The ozito is one of the flukes that seem to work well for around the $400
ThePa1nter that’s for that! I’ll have a look for a Wagner, I’ve read good things online about em too. Got a roof up here I’m about to do in southern QLD with some decent surface rust like yours....that penetrol idea might buy me a decade. Thanks for putting up this video really good info!
Believe it or not, that is the 210 fine finish tip that I have a video about after using it for a while,it has blown out to around 517 ,seems to be good on this roof.
ThePa1nter I thought it was a fflp! I’m having trouble with sueding lately what tips can you give me to stop this, what pressure are you pumping out mate great job by the way ! Tia
aren't you just painting over that rust. shouldn't you treat the rust first. I'm asking because my son and I are working on his roof at the moment I thought we had to treat the rust with rust converter first
We are using a product called penetrol, it soaks into the rust and stop the oxygen from reaching it and using oil based undercoat with it, works very good
Yes,it's a house, the majority of houses here are tin roof,that is one of my own rental properties and the sound of rain on a tin roof is a beautiful sound. There are tiled roofs here as well but they seem to have issues with leaking and tile breakage.
and i can tell you i wouldnt have just painted over that rust.if you lived in this humid area and not so much sun you would not be able to give much of a guarentee.and that fancy flashing work looks pretty much like super ,not really.you cant do that .must be super dry there
Yes it was really hot and dry there that day ,you obviously live in a different climate to myself and I would have done it differently in the climate you discussed. I didn't just paint over that rust, I treated it with a special rust preventative product called Penetrol and also mixed with an oil based Quick dry undercoat,normally you can repaint this product in 20 minutes but on a roof on a hot day it drys within minutes. That property and roof is my own rental property, I own it, do you think I would do a dodgy job on my own property, I think not. Watch and learn,not all the information is written on the side of the can, that's why I post these videos to show different methods that work without falling for the manufacturers tricks. www.floodaustralia.net/products/anti_corrosion/penetrol-anti_rust.php That fancy flashing is designed for waterproofing and I have been using it for 20 years patching holes,never will it fail in this temp,in a colder climates you need to heat the flashing for it to stick but it is a product that will last forever.
Ugly your out come of this paint job. Guarantee can see all your shades on the roof because of the way you spraying the roof. People dont do what this guy just did. You should always go from top to bottom and not let the paint dry before you over lap.
@@waynecampbell5941 That has to be the worst advise I've ever heard Wayne, keep watching my videos you might actually learn some thing. You never spay a roof in the afternoon or early morning with moisture , you will end up with bubbles. You are right about using oil undercoat but that alone isn't enough to hold back the rust.
@@waynecampbell5941 I always spray end to end. Better finish that way but never spray in the afternoon. The dew sits on the paint and bubbles. Usually settles down but better not to risk the overall outcome. I always spray early morning after the dew has gone. Never spray after 2.
