Thanks for sharing, to many don't try or discourage those who do. Your explaining as you went, not only the repair but cause of damage you found was helpfull.
@baileyslip... The 2 tires are linked with a solid shaft. The only thing that would make 1 tire pull and not the other is if the pin/bolt going through the wheel rim and shaft is missing or broken.
I was wondering about that. I have a Bronco with a 7HP Kohler. Pulling the starter rope it has low compression, even with a new headgasket. It starts just like that Clinton. I love it.
@Tonyb635 .. You need a Pony. The Tuffy and Bronco are inexpensive but will never last like a Pony or Horse. In the background you will notice another red tiller, it is a Horse. It is one of the first ones ever made era 1962. Its 4 1/2hp Clinton engine starts with a single pull and runs great. It will run circles around this Super Bronco.
I can't help but notice that vintage trojan horse in the background in this video. I have a working 1963 model like that one and cant figure out the logic of that clutch lever. if you push it down it locks into place going forward on the upper stopper, but when your ready to finish tilling the row you pull back on the spring loaded lever to release the lock, pull up, and the bottom roller gets caught on the bottom stopper. It's harrowing when you cant get the tiller to stop when you need it to- I'm tempted to just remove the bottom stopper. Any Ideas on how that clutch lever works or is adjusted? Perhaps the previous owner had it set up wrong or something and its trowing me off... I cant find anything about models that old online.
Good eye. The one in the background is a 1964 and is the 700th ever made. Yours should have the 4 1/2hp Clinton engine. The first couple of years up through about 1964 they had a unique lever system. It featured a rod and bar engagement lever. The newer models just had a single round bar engagement lever. You should have a piece of flat steel coming straight back about 2 feet long from the engagement mechanism. On the top of this flat steel there should be a welded washer with a round bar going through it and down to the engagement lever. Pulling on the round bar disengages the roller wheel from its notch. If your machine isn't disengaging properly I would suspect the slide rods that the engine mount moves up and down on is sticking. The weight of the engine should naturally want to disengage it.
I no longer have mine so I'm trying to go by memory and some old photos. I just shared some photos with you on your Google+ account. I've never done this before so let me know if you don't get them. You should be able to zoom in and see the setup.
Thanks for the sand paper idea, wouldn't have thought sand paper could do much to the wheel shaft but it really cleaned up some major dings from a previous owner. It's a first generation Horse and somewhere in it's history it looks like someone removed the wheel seals with a Jack hammer, can't imagine those seals lasted more than a hundred revolutions, big ridges and gouges. But the sand paper got in there and cleaned things up enough not to tear up the new seals.
+David Struve Yeah, the wheels can darn near weld themselves to the shaft sometimes. These machine go forever, so I'm glad you're back up and going. In the background you can see one of the first Troy Bilt machines ever made(first couple hundred) with the original 4hp grey Clinton motor.
DD826 Yes and no. It isn't a high speed bearing so even if a little extremely fine steel dust got into it, it wouldn't hurt the bearing. Sand/dirt grit on the other hand is definitely not good.
So I just got this used tiller that was not cranking and tried to clean it myself. I am noobie to this and actually opened the oil tank :-(. All the oil poured out as you can imagine... Trying to put it back together it wont shut all the way... Am I screwed?
Great video sixtyfiveford! What is the best way to remove the tines on a Pony model? I tried using a 7 ton gear puller to no avail. Thanks for your help.
Wedge large open end wrench from axle into tines on opposite side. Use pipe wrench to start spinning tine assembly while spraying with wd40. Worked well on 82 pony
Soak Croil penetrating oil between the tine and shaft. It cost more, but works a lot more. Add some every 4 hrs or so for Two days. Then heat the tine tube using an accetelene torch. When replacing, coat with antisieze. Whenever get a new machine, immediately remove wheels and everything and coat with antisieze.
Any ideas on why the tines start digging then stop? It has one belt and looks like it's set correctly. Drives fine. Makes grinding sound upon reverse and when tines stop digging. It's a horse model.
+PharmSilver If when the tines stop the lower belt pulley is still spinning you more than likely have a stripped gear internally. If you have the PTO horse make sure the tine engagement lever is fully engaged.
I have a super bronco tiller and when I am tilling the right tire stops turning or pulling the tiller then I have to push the dam thing you know that suck.Then the left side stops and the right tire will pull. somethings wronge!! Can you help?
I use a long drywall screw and barely tapped the metal seal ring. Then I gently pulled it out followed by using a dull screwdriver to remove the rubber. No scratches no dings! It was much easier for me. I hope it will help you all.
I have a TROY-BILT Rear Tine Tiller - Bronco, model number 21C 64M1011 188242 that needs a new tine shaft seal. Can someone give me what the part description would be? I would also be interested in knowing if there is a particular site that is the best place to go for buying parts like this. Thank you.
+sixtyfiveford I ordered the seal from Amazon and just got through replacing it. Everything went well. Thank you again for making that video and taking the time to provide a link for the seal.
+Carl Freemyer Here is the wheel seal ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Pv5n7yZIbb8.html . As far as the front seal, you pull everything off and pull out the seal the same way.
Can it be replaced with pulling the transmission? It would seem you could just take the transmission pulley off, seal off, add new seal? Might be a little tight spacing wise?
Next time try cutting the seal with a 1/4" cold chisel that has been ground down a bit flatter for this specific job. This way you will not "nick up" the shaft or housing. You cut a V-notch into the the seal or cut it on opposing sides which will take all of the pressure off of it. Nice job doing the job you did though, most of us would just keep adding oil!
Thanks for the video, I have to replace a seal also and thought I had to get deeper into it. I said to myself, " He can't fix it. His wheels are on backwards". LOL
Lafayette Lyle Generally chevron wheels would be positioned the other way but this is incorrect for tillers. Why? because the tines are pushing forward and the wheels are actually trying to stop/slow down the tiller essentially moving in reverse. Placing them the way you would for tractors will cause loose dirt to accumulate and the tiller will constantly jerk forward.
@@sixtyfiveford The tiller will jerk forward if you have your depth regulator set to low for the soil you are tilling. These tillers run themselves when set properly and jerk uncontrolablly when set to deep for the ground they are tilling. And yes, your tires are backwards.