Hi Jake, Kiva, One way is to create some blocks to sit under the axles directly behind the tyres, that are high enough to lift the tyre off the ground. Then match the supports on the ends to the same height. You can then let the most of the pressure out of the tyres and either leave them on the hubs, but covered to protect from UV, or remove them and store them else where. The base of the blocks will spread the load far better than your tyres are now. But is doesn't hurt to spread that load with extra timber or concrete to minimise settling and readjustments.
I jacked up each corner and built cross stacked cinder block piers. I did a stack on each corner and in front and behind the wheel wells. Unless you raise it you will have to jack the axles up to remove tires
I would check out wood cribbing with old rail road ties or pressure treated beams. Once you raise the trailer keep the tires on with no weight on them. If you are worried about wind I would check into trailer screw down anchors and attach cables to the anchor and house.
You can buy like ten jack stands from harbor freight and prop your house up on those, slightly higher so the tires aren't touching. This would be best because you still have earthquake protection if the house falls off the Jack's/won't damage your tires😀
I would suggest you look up how they crib a house when they are getting ready to move it. I would not take the tires off just lighten the load a good bit. So i suggest you crib up the trailer in 6 places front middle and rear. This can be done with a bottle jack and some 6x6 pt post cut into 18" to 24" lengths. raise the trailer front then middle and finally rear then simply scoop out from under the tires and let them hang in place. This way you dont have to find a place to store them. hope my random rambling hels
Its not just the tires that flat spot from weight you can flat spot the wheel bearings over time also. If you tow the house at slow speeds for a few miles tires should become round again but the bearings and races will not return to round and premature wear will become a problem.
I recently did this with my 81 year old grandmother! I have a three axel trailer so we did this with 6 tires. I placed cinder blocks where I wanted them to be for a more permanent stability. We didn’t need to jack up or change the level on the trailer. In fact that would really mess up your level. So make sure you’re level first. I had to remove the valve stems from each tire in order to completely deflate the tires. It’s a small tool you can get at Auto Zone or the like. The valve stem should be replaced as soon as your tire is delayed so you don’t lose it. When you deflate the tires in this manner, you can easily remove them. No need to move your trailer! By the way, as your tires are deflating, they will rest on your blocks. If your blocks are not all level with each other, you can shim them but do try to make sure your blocks are as level as you can get them first.
So you basically just wedged the supports into place, then transferred the load from tires to blocks by deflating them... I guess the trailer could only sink a tiny bit, and you'd want to make sure the base of your supports won't sink into soft ground...
I lived in a double wide trailer that was supported on cinderblocks. But the method for your trailers jacking, I honestly can not speak on experiencially. So I will just stop talking. Good luck I'm praying for ya.
We have done nothing to our tires and it’s been 2 years. Lol. Hopefully y’all can figure out a good way. I like the idea of turning them every now and then. Super cool effect there at the beginning! 😊❤️👍
Effort mostly... lol... and how to go about transferring the weight onto supports. I saw a comment about using adjustable jack stands that are meant for trailers... I like that the best because it doesn't involve tilting the trailer up and down to get supports into place.
How permanent should the foundation be? I would dig a place for two concrete beams, like 30cm think, 50cm tall and width of trailer plus 10% on each side. Place it just underneath the surface of ground to have chance to cover it up when moving the house. In concrete I would embed a 10x10x30cm (deep) form to make a cavity for galvanized square iron pipe. This pipe will support the house. Upper part in contact with trailer would be in U shape made of 5mm galvanized steel band. When the supports will be ready I would just use some jacks to put trailer higher to be able to put that steel in place and then lower it into place. The same on the other side. If this solution should be non pernament, then i would use ground screw anchors - stopdigging.ca/
